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Weakest would be polycarbonate. I can reliably print 9085 and 1010. I am working on PPSU and PEKK next. After that, PEEK. I can do any with a CF filler. ABS+kevlar. PVDF (apparently resists all solvents under 200C).
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Sep 12, 2020 06:44
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Nozzle chat has me shopping for nozzles. And it's made me realize when I switched to (It does also give me an excuse to finally yoink a BL Touch and PTFE tubing}
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Sep 12, 2020 16:29
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Get a TriangleLab MicroSwiss clone with a hardened nozzle. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33031908940.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.60.483f6f44rXuDZn You want the "24v hardened steel kit". TriangleLab makes very high quality clones wrt the originals.
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Sep 12, 2020 16:56
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insta posted:How can I find printing business for engineering plastics? You mean businesses looking to buy prints, or businesses that supply them?
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Sep 12, 2020 16:58
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I am wanting to offer my engineering plastics printing services to people that need them. I have but a little babby printer (260mm x3 volume) so I cannot compete with a fleet of Stratasys machines, but I can happily race to the bottom on pricing vs. them.
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Sep 12, 2020 17:40
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The usual way it starts is an engineer / technologist / whatever gets a visit from the good ideas fairy, and starts thinking about 3D printing and whether it can improve their process / work they do. Then they look into 3D printers/printing. In a way, their primary motivation is to reduce hassle / improve their job or results. That's who you want to be found by: the hands-on guy who is already interested, has a budget they can spend discretionally to explore it, and wants to find out if it makes their life easier / spreadsheet numbers gooder by spending only a little amount of time before seeing results. (In the case of engineering plastics, maybe they already know they can't afford to buy their own PEEK/ULTEM/etc printer to gently caress around at this stage.) It absolutely has to be accessible and easy for them. These guys also have their normal jobs that need doing, so they only have so much time and attention to spend dicking around with an idea before seeing results and being able to decide if it can help them. If it's a hassle or you gotta pester them with a million questions to deliver something, they'll drop it. (And if at any point during this early stage it requires approval from a suit -- like spending over a certain amount -- it'll die.) No one has to take my word for this, either. This basic model of how 3d printing gets an "in" is also what Ultimaker builds their entire (very successful) B2B sales structure around.
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Sep 12, 2020 18:14
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So, being in the right place at the right time, and/or knowing somebody who knows somebody?
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Sep 12, 2020 18:38
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Well those points are always true. If can do both at once, is very good  I mean if you don't have either it's tough, basically barely a step up from cold-calling, but you can help it happen by making sure the stuff you do and show is chosen to appeal to the type of person who comes looking (and "they" are most likely engineers -- already somewhat interested in 3d printers/printing -- trying to find out whether 3d printing can help them improve a hands-on process they already know very well) & make sure that when they do find you, they see stuff relevant to what they are after.
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Sep 12, 2020 19:16
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insta posted:So, being in the right place at the right time, and/or knowing somebody who knows somebody? i mean this in the nicest way: it sounds like you have a neat technical idea for a service you could sell, but you maybe don't know as much about general business development and marketing. getting yourself and your business out there so that potential clients can find you is a lot more of a business problem than a 3D printer problem, although i think you had a good idea coming here to try and nail down the type of person who might come looking for the services you're trying to figure out how provide. learning some basic marketing ideas like building a brand, networking, and so on will probably help you a lot in figuring out how to be the person who's "in the right place at the right time"
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Sep 12, 2020 22:46
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insta posted:Get a TriangleLab MicroSwiss clone with a hardened nozzle. Is it really worth jumping to a new hotend just for a new nozzle? Or is this the sort of upgrade that is better sooner rather than later and I dont know what I'm missing? And I gotta ask because it's right there, what about that 24V Ruby nozzle?
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Sep 12, 2020 23:23
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Lutha Mahtin posted:i mean this in the nicest way: it sounds like you have a neat technical idea for a service you could sell, but you maybe don't know as much about general business development and marketing. getting yourself and your business out there so that potential clients can find you is a lot more of a business problem than a 3D printer problem, although i think you had a good idea coming here to try and nail down the type of person who might come looking for the services you're trying to figure out how provide. learning some basic marketing ideas like building a brand, networking, and so on will probably help you a lot in figuring out how to be the person who's "in the right place at the right time" That's always been my problem, which is compounded by printing being a side gig at best (not that one begat the other, no sir). I did manage to wander in to a combat robot discord, and I'm trying to whore myself out there now. I'm also going back and primping up my website so it's been updated since Trump took office, as well as bumping up the LinkedIn side of things. Past that, I'm still sort of stalled on where to go next or how to do it.
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Sep 12, 2020 23:59
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Serenade posted:Is it really worth jumping to a new hotend just for a new nozzle? Or is this the sort of upgrade that is better sooner rather than later and I dont know what I'm missing? It's worth going to an all metal hotend to go to abrasive filaments. The PTFE & soft aluminum of the Creality nozzle will quickly abrade away. The MicroSwiss clone is a drop-in replacement, and you may not even need to redo your bed leveling. The ruby will not get you anything that the steel nozzle won't also get you. It may last longer, but it will also clog much harder and be impossible to clean. Replacement steel nozzles are like $8, just get a couple. If you're using filled filaments (CF, GF, Kevlar), go for a 0.6 nozzle and print at 0.24 layers. If you're using GITD, go for a 0.4 nozzle and print at 0.12 or 0.16 layers.
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Sep 13, 2020 00:03
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insta posted:It's worth going to an all metal hotend to go to abrasive filaments. The PTFE & soft aluminum of the Creality nozzle will quickly abrade away. The MicroSwiss clone is a drop-in replacement, and you may not even need to redo your bed leveling. Those both make sense, thanks. And if a ruby nozzle isn't on the level of "buy one and you're good for life", then yeah, not worth it. I know I'm not going to print spools and spools of CF in a row under tight timelines.
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Sep 13, 2020 00:31
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Everyone's favorite youtube machinist got a prusa https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTn74yaqXeo and it is a good time, as usual.
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Sep 13, 2020 00:39
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Hypnolobster posted:Everyone's favorite youtube machinist got a prusa Cool watching a machinist interpret the assembly instuctions. He's probably right about the linear bearings
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Sep 13, 2020 01:27
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Hypnolobster posted:Everyone's favorite youtube machinist got a prusa Lol, I closed it when he whined about needlenose pliers.
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Sep 13, 2020 01:49
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Lol, I closed it when he whined about needlenose pliers. he's kinda right though, that's ghetto and they should have put in a cheap little wrench or socket driver for the price you pay e: though really who orders the kit if they don't have tools like that around already
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Sep 13, 2020 03:22
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My E3 pro has been making a very loud screeching noise. Is there any way to reduce that? Like maybe oil something up. I'm not even sure what's making the noise. If it helps I can take a video. Edit: it seems to be when the extruder retracts the filament. Edit 2: It disappears if I ease up the filamen tension 
Chernabog fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Sep 13, 2020 |
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Sep 13, 2020 03:28
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Ordered a prusa mk3 today, thankfully a few hours before that video went out to a bunch of people who might be ordering one. Now for the 2-3 week wait!
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Sep 13, 2020 03:36
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Hypnolobster posted:Everyone's favorite youtube machinist got a prusa I discovered Tony earlier this summer and have been working my way through his vids. I like the combination of information, skill and  he does. His earliest ones are more straightforward, but still good.One thing I found kind of funny is how many of his projects are him making something that's either an improvement on a tool he has or something to add to his stuff. I can only think of a couple of vids where he actually makes something not machining related: the rubber band gun for his kid and the pasta machine for the French cooking guy. If you want to really get gobsmacked, find Clickspring's series on recreating the Antikythera mechanism using techniques that would hsve been available to the classical Greeks. Just... wow.
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Sep 13, 2020 08:31
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MrUnderbridge posted:I discovered Tony earlier this summer and have been working my way through his vids. I like the combination of information, skill and The go kart series is peak classic Tony for me.
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Sep 13, 2020 14:42
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Anyone had any issues with heat creep on Prusament filament? I love the stuff, but if I print anything longer than 2 hours on my 6SE, the filament gets hung up in the Bowden tube. I think I can use it in my 5, because I have an all metal hotted in that and the Bowden tube doesn't get very warm, but if that doesn't work I'm going to be all  because it really is gorgeous filament.
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Sep 13, 2020 15:21
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Sounds like a lovely hotend problem.
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Sep 13, 2020 17:35
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I mean, heat creep is heat creep, i'd start with a fan upgrade.
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Sep 13, 2020 17:58
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Sounds like a lovely hotend problem. Quite possibly, but I don’t have the same problem with any othEr filament.
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Sep 13, 2020 18:29
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What would cause a shiny sheen to PLA? The one on the left is with a new hotend that is like my original on my CR-10. The one on the right is from an all metal hotend from Th3d Studio. Same filament and everything.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:21
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Not really sure what you're calling a "shiny sheen," but the one on the left is clearly better, and it's possible that you're just seeing the anisotropic reflection caused by the traces being better aligned with each other. I would say that the one on the right is running a little hot and loose. Both could use some filament K-factor calibration/linear advance tuning, incidentally. Those little blob peaks on the corners don't have to be there.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:28
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calandryll posted:What would cause a shiny sheen to PLA? My gut reaction is that the all-metal hot end is running a little hotter and melting the filament more than the stock but I don't have an all-metal so I don't know if that's a thing
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Sep 13, 2020 22:34
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It is a lot shinier than the picture shows. I kept having all sorts of issues with clogging in my all metal hotend. I wonder if that was because it was running too hot. The gcode was the same between the two prints, only difference was the hotend. I did see with the all metal hotend a lot of up and down during in temperature during printing. As for the little blobs on the corners how would I get get rid of them?
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Sep 14, 2020 00:22
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calandryll posted:It is a lot shinier than the picture shows. I kept having all sorts of issues with clogging in my all metal hotend. I wonder if that was because it was running too hot. The gcode was the same between the two prints, only difference was the hotend. I did see with the all metal hotend a lot of up and down during in temperature during printing. You need to PID tune the hotend.
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Sep 14, 2020 00:58
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Well no, not in the usual sense of PID tuning for the hotend (temperature settings). The little blobs on the corners happen because the filament has a certain amount of springiness in it, and it gets compressed into the hotend by the extruder motor. This means the extrusion can't just shut off instantly when it needs to -- if you stop the extruder motor right at the corner, a tiny bit of extra plastic will continue to come out afterwards as the filament decompresses. This makes the little bump wherever the trace suddenly changes direction. To fix this, you need to decelerate the extrusion by some factor as you approach the corner, ramping down to zero instead of stopping suddenly. This factor will depend on your extruder design and the elasticity of the filament you're using, so it has to be determined empirically for your setup. How you set that up will depend on your machine, but it's usually called something like "linear advance." Google that and see how you do.
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Sep 14, 2020 01:50
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I've been going nuts diagnosing a bed adhesion issue. Turns out, after spending weeks testing everything, the problem was running out of wypall shop towels and switching to bounty!
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Sep 14, 2020 02:05
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LightRailTycoon posted:I've been going nuts diagnosing a bed adhesion issue. Turns out, after spending weeks testing everything, the problem was running out of wypall shop towels and switching to bounty! I am vindicated
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Sep 14, 2020 03:40
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I love Wypall towels so much that I use the X50 jumbo roll in the kitchen.
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Sep 14, 2020 03:48
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Sagebrush posted:Well no, not in the usual sense of PID tuning for the hotend (temperature settings). The little blobs on the corners happen because the filament has a certain amount of springiness in it, and it gets compressed into the hotend by the extruder motor. This means the extrusion can't just shut off instantly when it needs to -- if you stop the extruder motor right at the corner, a tiny bit of extra plastic will continue to come out afterwards as the filament decompresses. This makes the little bump wherever the trace suddenly changes direction. To fix this, you need to decelerate the extrusion by some factor as you approach the corner, ramping down to zero instead of stopping suddenly. This factor will depend on your extruder design and the elasticity of the filament you're using, so it has to be determined empirically for your setup. Thanks for the info. I'll look into it, as I think it's been doing that since I've had the machine. I'm beginning to suspect that all of my issues with clogging was coming from my all metal hotend. As there was a lot of thermal variation during printing, at time it could jump a 3 or 4 degrees. This was with a silicone sock on it and it didn't matter if a fan was on or off.
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Sep 14, 2020 08:51
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calandryll posted:Thanks for the info. I'll look into it, as I think it's been doing that since I've had the machine. I had some heat creep when I did a bad job reinstalling the all metal hotend on my maker select. On that printer the heat block sits just below the metal plate that the heatsink for the cold end of the hotend attaches to. What you're supposed to do is screw in the nozzle to the heat block, then back it off a half turn or so, then install the all metal tube screwed down to touch the back of the nozzle inside the block, then when it's heated, turn the nozzle to tight. I managed to get the nozzle way too loose and the tube screwed in too far so the heat block itself was touching the mounting plate instead of leaving a little air gap. It would print alright for a while and then I'd get the plastic melting and causing a jam too far up in the heat break tube. I'd see if there's anything on the block itself touching stuff above it that can transfer heat back to the rest of the assembly. I don't know your specific hotend well but generally the tube should be the only thing between the block and the rest of the printer (ignoring the cabling for the heater cartridge and thermistor). edit: Most of the all metal hotend tubes are a metal that doesn't conduct heat as well as the aluminum everything else is made out of, or two metals with the one in the heat block being that less thermally conductive metal. My micro-swiss one was titanium and I managed to snap that fucker over tightening it. The replacement I got from triangle labs was a lot cheaper and is supposed to just be stainless steel. So far it's been fine. I managed to gently caress up my heat block eventually while dealing with the cascading problems this all caused, but luckily it was like $10 for a new one. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 09:48
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Run into an odd one with my little Labists printer - if I try and print something with a 10mm cylinder (or hole) aligned vertically, it comes out more like a square with rounded corners, with maybe 1-1.5 mm of flat then a smooth curve on each face. This happens whether or not the structure has internal supports, and with wall thicknesses from 0.8-3.2mm (going up in multiples of .4, the nozzle width). Structures larger than about 20mm don't seem to do this, and ones smaller than 5mm likewise seem okay. Have I just hit some opposite-of-a-sweet-spot in the way the X and Y motors interact, and should just design around it (tbh the deformation is *very* consistent so it's still okay for my purpose of using it to locate two parts together) or is this something that's possibly fixable?
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Sep 14, 2020 10:20
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Run into an odd one with my little Labists printer - if I try and print something with a 10mm cylinder (or hole) aligned vertically, it comes out more like a square with rounded corners, with maybe 1-1.5 mm of flat then a smooth curve on each face. This happens whether or not the structure has internal supports, and with wall thicknesses from 0.8-3.2mm (going up in multiples of .4, the nozzle width). This would probably be more of a resolution issue with either the slicer or the STL output from the CAD software. Keep in mind that STLs do not have curves, they have facets, so I'd lean more toward the slicer not working properly. There is an outside chance that the printer is skipping code steps trying to keep up with a speed that is too fast for it, but you usually only see that on CNC controllers attempting to interpolate a radius at physical speeds that are faster than it's able to do it (and 3d printer slicers generally don't output circular interpolation codes, so I don't know what the problem would be there).
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Sep 14, 2020 11:04
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biracial bear for uncut posted:This would probably be more of a resolution issue with either the slicer or the STL output from the CAD software. Okay, I'm using Cura (and Labist's own slicer which seems to be a reskinned Cura with a load of presets loaded) - any suggestions for another slicer? FWIW the preview image in the slicer is perfectly round so that *probably* excludes any weirdness with the CAD software but I'll re-make my test objects in 3D Builder to see if there's any difference.
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Sep 14, 2020 13:03
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Okay, I'm using Cura (and Labist's own slicer which seems to be a reskinned Cura with a load of presets loaded) - any suggestions for another slicer? FWIW the preview image in the slicer is perfectly round so that *probably* excludes any weirdness with the CAD software but I'll re-make my test objects in 3D Builder to see if there's any difference. Look for something called "Max Deviation" in Cura's "Mesh Fixes" settings and make sure that number is some ridiculously small value like 0.001 and retry slicing.  This will dramatically increase the time it takes to slice a file, but the generated code will more closely follow the object you model. The alternative is that the printer is having trouble "keeping up" with the code as the controller feeds instructions to the motors and it's interrupting itself as it does tiny hole motions and the result just looks odd because the timing happens to produce a consistent shape in a given area of the layer. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 15:29
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