|
Xovaan posted:Man, I can't loving wait until winter break. Gonna be heading back down to my house and picking up all my tools since my friend is done with his engine swap. I'll be able to completely rewire and waterproof every electrical connection on my bike for the winter and properly torque every bolt on the bike (Suzuki uses foot pounds- not inch pounds- right? I think that means that the chain should move up and down about 1/2" in each direction. It shouldn't have 1" of slack in the chain, although I'd be willing to watch someone ride a bike with a chain setup like that.
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 22:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 13:43 |
|
|
If you gently press down on the chain, and gently lift it to the top of it's run, measuring from top of the chain to top of the chain, you should have about 1 inch of total travel.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2011 23:34
|
|
|
Thanks a ton. I'm hoping it is within spec right now but just to make sure I'm gonna measure tomorrow morning. If it's not, what's the best way to measure 42ftlbs for the wheel nut without a torque wrench offhand? RFT?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2011 02:32
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Thanks a ton. I'm hoping it is within spec right now but just to make sure I'm gonna measure tomorrow morning. If it's not, what's the best way to measure 42ftlbs for the wheel nut without a torque wrench offhand? RFT? I use a half inch breaker bar and when I start really having to get my weight into it call it good. 42 foot pounds isn't actually all that much with a breaker bar.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2011 02:43
|
|
|
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...r:referralID=NA Even a cheap one will do.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2011 21:35
|
|
|
Or you can go oldschool beam type. That type is ok for stuff that gets lotta torques.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2011 21:40
|
|
|
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CGNhGkqM-E Here's a video on GSXR fork swaps I found. It's pretty good so I figure you would all like to see it!
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2011 10:12
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CGNhGkqM-E I had always thought it would be a big pain in the rear end to do, then I did it on the track bike. Took under half an hour and was really easy. Now I just need to put the rest of the bike back together. Downside is I ended up buying two front ends (long story) and I'm kind of tempted to put one on the commuter.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2011 13:09
|
|
|
So I tightened my chain and managed to pull this off without my bike exploding. But I'm pretty sure there's a difference of about 1/32 of an inch between the measurements on both sides. Is that okay? I feel like I need to get some sort of space age machine to eliminate human error. I am not mechanically inclined either which made it take about 2 hours for me to do.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 02:01
|
|
|
Edit: wrong thread
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 02:15
|
|
|
Sicarii posted:So I tightened my chain and managed to pull this off without my bike exploding. 1/32nd of a difference on the axle adjusters?
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 02:56
|
|
|
Z3n posted:1/32nd of a difference on the axle adjusters? Between the axle nuts and the bolt in the middleish of the frame. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 04:58
|
|
|
Sicarii posted:Between the axle nuts and the bolt in the middleish of the frame. Line the hash marks up on the swingarm rather than measuring to the swingarm pivot. Much easier 
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 05:53
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Line the hash marks up on the swingarm rather than measuring to the swingarm pivot. Much easier Once you've done that you can finetune by feel. Go ride it at ~10mph and get your hands off the handlebars and see if the bike veers off a bit. Adjust the tensioners until your bike doesn't do that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 12:10
|
|
|
This probably doesn't need more explaining, but just in case: When your wheel is yawed left, your bike will drift to the right and vice versa.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 12:15
|
|
|
KARMA! posted:Once you've done that you can finetune by feel. Go ride it at ~10mph and get your hands off the handlebars and see if the bike veers off a bit. Adjust the tensioners until your bike doesn't do that. Unless it's really severe, I can't see this being a good metric. Mainly because I can get the bike to easily veer one direction or another at 10mph with just gentle body weight inputs, and it's easy to give those unintentionally. You can measure alignment with string or you can do what I do and just line up the hash marks consistently on both sides and go ride.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 18:59
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Unless it's really severe, I can't see this being a good metric. Mainly because I can get the bike to easily veer one direction or another at 10mph with just gentle body weight inputs, and it's easy to give those unintentionally. You can measure alignment with string or you can do what I do and just line up the hash marks consistently on both sides and go ride. I read somewhere that the hash marks can be off quite a bit sometimes, so I did the string method on my SV last time I changed the rear rubber. It took me a little while to get the hang of it, but once you do it once its so easy. And then you know its right at least.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 20:52
|
|
|
If you're too good for hashmarks, here's a cheapo tool you can make in 5 minutes: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_adjust_chain/rear_wheel_alignment%3F
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2011 22:56
|
|
|
Just fixed my kick stand! There was only one spring instead of the two-part spring gizmo that attaches to the hook. Oh, and it wasn't even the OEM spring.  Now it's perfect and the bike doesn't have any weird stalling issues. Monday is a long-overdue oil change and swapping out the tires for Pilot Road 3's so the bike rides straight at speed since the previous owner rode it with 6psi and ground it nearly car-tire-flat!  Next up: 1. Wait for a gentleman on SVrider to ship me his extra McMaster Carr insulated bolt clamps to mount my 7" round headlight and sell my DDM tuning HID kit 2. Drive eight hours to San Diego to pick up my tools (including a multimeter, torque wrench, heat gun + electrical kit, every socket imaginable, and of course a million zip ties). Somewhere during this time also celebrate White People Jesus's birthday and get some goddamned motherfucking carne asada fries. Goddamn. 3. Drive eight hours back to Santa Cruz to re-splice every plier-crimped connector on the bike and waterproof the splices. 4. Possibly get a new triple so I can mount the ignition properly. 5. Paint the bike white. Oh yes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2011 01:10
|
|
|
Headed out to give this a look today or tomorrow for a friend as her first bike. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/mcy/2740571083.html Any trouble in particular I should look for with the older SV's?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2011 16:55
|
|
|
That thing looks like it had its mirrors broken off, leaving Martian stalks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2011 18:04
|
|
|
the walkin dude posted:That thing looks like it had its mirrors broken off, leaving Martian stalks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2011 23:26
|
|
|
Yes yes yes yes. Pilot Road 3's on bike. No more shaved back tire causing me to look like I don't know how to keep a motorized bicycle in a straight line! Now hopefully I can break these in without lowsiding. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2011 09:48
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Yes yes yes yes. Pilot Road 3's on bike. No more shaved back tire causing me to look like I don't know how to keep a motorized bicycle in a straight line! New tire day is the happiest motorcycling day! Its like the bike suddenly learned to turn in again!
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2011 17:11
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Yes yes yes yes. Pilot Road 3's on bike. No more shaved back tire causing me to look like I don't know how to keep a motorized bicycle in a straight line! A bunch of weaving with increasing tightness will fix that right up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2011 19:17
|
|
|
I woke up to my entire bike encased with ice like out of a Hollywood SciFi movie. And the road completely frozen. No weaving today.  (I still road it though. In 30 degree weather. Used my exhaust to un-freeze my fingertips at stoplights. Like a loving boss.) Now I just need to sell some old audio equipment so I can afford Z3n's sharkskin race fairings. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2011 02:59
|
|
|
So ride the bike to lunch today. Now it won't start. The starter spins but nothing happens. Help me CA.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2011 22:42
|
|
|
invision posted:So ride the bike to lunch today. Now it won't start. The starter spins but nothing happens. Help me CA. Out of gas? Check safety switches, although they should cut the starter on an SV too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2011 22:52
|
|
|
Well, I should say that the starter spins but the engine doesn't turn over. Starter clutch?
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2011 23:39
|
|
|
Most likely. The same thing happened to my ex500 when the starter sprocket sheared.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2011 00:28
|
|
|
invision posted:Well, I should say that the starter spins but the engine doesn't turn over. Starter clutch? Can you push start it to at least get home? Also, could be a sprag failure as AncientTV mentions, could also be that there's a bad spot and putting it in gear and bumping the engine forward or back a bit will get it to go.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2011 00:35
|
|
|
It refused to bump start earlier, so we had to truck it home.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2011 02:00
|
|
|
invision posted:Well, I should say that the starter spins but the engine doesn't turn over. Starter clutch? Probably not. Got a sound recording or even better a video of this?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2011 02:29
|
|
|
Sorry about the lovely video. I was trying to hold the clutch and press the starter. The point of the video is obviously to hear what it sounds like. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHh5MglWym8&feature=g-upl
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2011 22:37
|
|
|
Went ahead and took the left engine cover off. Besides the clutch cable being a pain in the rear end to get off, it went pretty smoothly. I'm able to spin the gears that connect the starter and the starter clutch counter-clockwise with a little bit of effort. It will not spin clockwise. I can't find a write-up on this problem, so anything helps. e:Pulled the allen-key rotor cover off and pulled the plugs. hit the starter, and the rotor doesn't spin. God the starter clutch assembly is expensive. invision fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Dec 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2011 02:53
|
|
|
invision posted:Went ahead and took the left engine cover off. Besides the clutch cable being a pain in the rear end to get off, it went pretty smoothly. Did you check that you don't have damaged gears between the motor and the starter sprag gear?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2011 07:11
|
|
|
invision posted:Went ahead and took the left engine cover off. Besides the clutch cable being a pain in the rear end to get off, it went pretty smoothly. Correct operation won't allow you to spin the clutch clockwise, so that's ok. I watched your video a few times, but couldn't quite determine whether the noise was starter clutch, starter motor or damaged gears between starter motor and sprag. Sadly, my vote is starter clutch. Watched again, and I don't think it's the starter motor.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2011 14:04
|
|
|
Thought this was kind of fitting: Anyways, checked all of the teeth, and they're all fine. Went back out to the garage today and I was able to spin it in bothdirections. Is there a good write-up on getting the starter clutch out of the bike? My shop manual is pretty much "Just remove it." This is what I think needs to happen, but I'm not sure, so I'm posting it here: 
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2011 22:55
|
|
|
If you're trying to remove the flywheel, you actually have to use a beefy impact driver (or use a chain wrench to immobilize the flywheel and a breaker bar on the bolt) and remove this bolt, it's also probably reverse threaded: and then use a flywheel puller to pop the assembly off. The sprag is attached to said flywheel. Note: This is how it was on my old ex500, I'm not sure if the process will be entirely the same. 2 cents and all that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2011 23:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 13:43 |
|
|
Bike is leaking fuel  This thing is loving cursed. I just wanna sell it and get another one. loving previous owner was completely dishonest about the integrity of this thing. Gonna break his legs eventually. Obligated to. Anyway, gotta figure out what the gently caress is leaking... seems to be dripping from the choke cable. Internet says it could be a stuck float but I'm not sure... what's the simplest way to clean this? Do I have to really pull the entire unit? I might just have a shop do it... don't think I'll have time to do it myself before I head to San Diego. Might take out an auto loan and get a newer bike. Don't know what yet though. Maybe another SV650, maybe something a bit more sport-tourer like. Maybe even a GSXR600. Who knows. Any suggestions on what I should do in this situation?
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2011 00:32
|
|