|
Mister Sinewave posted:(It's styrofoam like a cheap picnic cooler, so I don't think boiling water or heat gun will work, but I might as well try something.) That's exactly why it will work. The EPO foam they use to make a lot of foamy planes is really resiliant and great for making multiple repairs with hot glue, foam-safe CA glue, or that funky rubber cement they pack in with some kits. From your picture it appears to me that only the wing mounting tab inside the wing's flaps is bent/broken. You could easily bend that back or even glue it back if it breaks.
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 15:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 14:28 |
|
|
Maybe I'll give that a shot then, I had it in my head that that kind of foam didn't take re-shaping well. And just to be clear, they are not broken or bent. They are molded incorrectly (well, incorrectly for this model. I suspect I have the wings from some other model incorrectly packed into my box.) I wish the photo could show you the whole thing from all angles at once, but trust me the wings are clearly meant to be the way they are. They are just not correct for my fuselage. 
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 15:55
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:This is SA isn't it? You can build a charger power supply out of an old PC power supply with a few easy mods. It's not actually the charger that is the problem - I bought a charger specifically with AC power just to make things easier. I might get a bigger one down the road and do that (I read about it a bit), but for now I just wanted a single-battery charger that would plug into a wall. The problem is the connection/leads from the charger to the batteries. I'm just surprised these things aren't universal.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 16:09
|
|
|
Went to the hobby shop and they had the one for my eflite 3200 3s (This one) but not for the 180mAh. They did tell me which one to get though, and I found another hobby shop in town that has them (or said they do on the phone at least). Bleh, I hope I have no more surprises with charging.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 17:57
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:If/when you break the arms on that 330mm frame, you can just get the 450mm frame since that motor/prop combo can easily lift way more than you can squeeze onto a 330 frame. Also you can tame down the lift/fall balance a bit by adding more weight if you're having trouble hovering at 50% throttle or descending. Though try setting your radio's dual rates first of course. Thanks for the tip on the weight, I did wonder if it was a bit overpowered. I went for the 330 frame as it was dirt cheap, bought a couple of them figuring I'd probably break a few arms/props. Revision 2 of the copter will definitely have a larger frame. I ordered a KK2.1 board yesterday, hopefully the additional sensors and display will make it a little easier to fly/calibrate...
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 19:27
|
|
|
The KK 2 board arrived today, along with a proper set of landing gear; it's amazing how much easier it is to fly now with the new controller and the receiver stick scaling on, even without the auto levelling function or any PID tuning. Think I killed a battery pack though, one of the cells is down to 2.2 volts  . Going to try the suggestions in this thread to resurrect it, although I think I'll do it outside in case it all goes horribly wrong...
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 18:10
|
|
|
FWIW boiling water - as I suspected - doesn't do poo poo to EPO. I submerged a test piece (the little square filler hole for optional flapper servo) in a bowl of boiling water, testing pushing corners, etc at different times and the only observable result was that the piece got wet.  A heat gun is sort-of useful but with caveats. All the smooshed-together balls of foam that make up the piece are like little marshmallows. The way this stuff is made is these balls are heated (which makes them expand like poofy marshmallows) and forced into a mold. This accounts for the smooth finish and surface of the end product. With heat it can become mooshy again and allow some re-shaping. But heating it means all those little balls poof back up like heated marshmallows making the heated piece instantly swell up and look like cottage cheese or something. To be successful, you need to direct the heat to only where you want it to go (lest the finish be ruined in places you're not working on) and after you do any re-shaping it will still look swollen, so you need to again re-heat and then press the surface down onto something cool and flat to smooth out the now-bumpy exterior to look more like what it used to. Pain the rear end, I'm telling you.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 18:31
|
|
|
Cunning Plan, good luck with the KK board. I like mine so far. Incidentally, anyone have any advice on PID tuning? I need to update my firmware so I can adjust the self-level gain, but so far I've mostly been setting it to random values and flying it. My usual flying spot is a little windy so it's hard to tell what oscillation/fussiness is caused by bad tuning and what's caused by gusts of wind.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 18:42
|
|
|
Thanks! Just had a bit of a hover around the garden, think I'm getting the hang of it now. As far as PID tuning goes, I'll be having a crack at it tomorrow if the weather's half decent. I'll probably follow the procedure outlined in this video (he starts talking about it around 6 minutes in). Basically the idea is to set P and I to 0, then dial up P until it oscillates, back it off a bit, then repeat it for I. The video makes it look very easy, I'm sure reality will not be so kind...
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 19:04
|
|
|
Mister Sinewave posted:FWIW boiling water - as I suspected - doesn't do poo poo to EPO. I submerged a test piece (the little square filler hole for optional flapper servo) in a bowl of boiling water, testing pushing corners, etc at different times and the only observable result was that the piece got wet. I use water just off the boil at about 190-200 degrees that way it doesn't pop the beads on the foam.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 20:07
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:I must be crazy because I've used boiling water to rub out dents and creases so many times on so many different planes I can't even count. The boiling water doesn't make the foam easier to shape however you want it, what it does is encourage the foam to return to its original shape. Sometimes it takes a few cycles, and you have to massage it with your hands at the same time. Ah, I wasn't doing that - rather than trying to "repair" I was trying to re-shape/re-form. (The foam's not damaged, it's the wrong shape because it's the wrong part.) I'll keep it in mind for getting out inevitable dings and dents though. Thanks for the tip.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 20:17
|
|
|
I'm surprised too that the heat didn't work. I've had to straighten out bent surfaces before, not just dents and creases and it worked quite well. But as you say, "it's the wrong part". I'm glad to hear you had success with HK support though!
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 21:27
|
|
|
Thing I'm wondering is what plane would that come from? No plane I've seen has that kind of a trailiing edge on the wing. It looks to me like they didn't let it cool adequately after demoulding and then it just smooshed into that shape. It's clearly got the correct decal set, as well as the Bixler2's inner flaps. It also looks like it has the correct wing profile and overall length. The inside profile of that last curve looks to me like it's wrinkled:
CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 21:58 on May 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 21:55
|
|
|
Just cut foam trailing edge down to be level with the bottom of the wing and stuff it in there then fill the gap with hot glue. You are talking about what looks like 3/8" of material inset into the fuselage with about another inch before you hit what looks like optional flaps. Does the rest of the wing(flaps, ailerons, tips) hold that horrible hook snarl on the trailing edge? If so don't do anything and have fun waiting a few years for a hobby king RMA.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 22:20
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:Thing I'm wondering is what plane would that come from? No plane I've seen has that kind of a trailiing edge on the wing. It looks to me like they didn't let it cool adequately after demoulding and then it just smooshed into that shape. It's clearly got the correct decal set, as well as the Bixler2's inner flaps. It also looks like it has the correct wing profile and overall length. The inside profile of that last curve looks to me like it's wrinkled: I probably accidentally got some prototype wings or manufacturing samples or something. I wish you could see them, the angle and shape is so even and smooth there's no way it's an accidental distortion. Bent during/after molding, maybe, but certainly not accidental. (The flash also exaggerates those wrinkles, they're not really apparent in person.) Both wings are 100% identical, by the way. It looks factory-made, it really does. Here is a picture after I cut the separation between it and the flapper (used to be one piece because attaching a servo to the flap is optional)  Here it is after I used a heat gun to re-form it by hand. I used a shield to protect the rest of the wing. This is after cooling but before smoothing it back out.  tehk posted:Just cut foam trailing edge down to be level with the bottom of the wing and stuff it in there then fill the gap with hot glue. You are talking about what looks like 3/8" of material inset into the fuselage with about another inch before you hit what looks like optional flaps. Does the rest of the wing(flaps, ailerons, tips) hold that horrible hook snarl on the trailing edge? If so don't do anything and have fun waiting a few years for a hobby king RMA. I'll see if my heat-reforming works first. As for Hobby King RMA, I just got the shipping notice for my replacement wings. (Of course, the plane itself took almost 5 weeks to arrive, so...) The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 22:50 on May 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 22:47
|
|
|
Wojcigitty posted:The gyros, including the one that keeps the tail steady, are on the main board. If that wiggles around it can couple back into the feedback loop and cause the wag. So make sure that is screwed to the frame securely. For that matter, make sure the frame is not broken, and that the landing gear is not broken, a wiggling battery could also cause it. Well, I finally got around to having a look at the spindle on my Nano CPX. It's so obviously bent that it's not even funny. No need to roll it over an even surface to detect it, it's plainly visible with the naked eye. I replaced it with a new one, now waiting for the glue to dry. Replacing the glue is every bit is horrible as I expected, maybe even more so. I wonder how long I should wait? It's a really tiny amount so not too long I guess. I'll wait a few hours just to be safe. I'll also put new blades on because the fast flight ones I had were bent too. Edit: had to redo it already. The blade grips were on the wrong sides making the links between the grips and the swashplate impossible to connect. God I hope I didn't bend the spindle again now. uXs fucked around with this message at 10:20 on May 31, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 09:42
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:Finally got my motor and finished building this one tonight: So, I got quite sick for a bit, so I didn't get to maiden this until today, but it's awesome!. It'll fly slower than the Crack Pitts Mini, but at full rates it's just insane. Still very much a newbie at 3D stuff, but slow rolls are much easier and I got them almost straight and I even got something that resembled a rolling harrier. Struggled a bit with hovering (something I now got pretty good at with the CPM), but I think it's mostly until I get used to the throttle range/response. I can see how this one would be completely insane on 3S, but I better stick with 2S until I get the basics down. Only negative is that the wheel pants wont survive long in the tallish grass I'm flying from, so I think I'll take them off.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 05:39
|
|
|
Just bought the hobbyking SK450. bit of an upgrade from my Estes Proto-X quad but I want to get into aerial photography and video. heres hoping I dont drop a go pro down a waterfall!
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 09:24
|
|
|
Mini owners and scratch builders I have a question. I have a boschert cnc turret punch and a bunch of brakes and forming machines(but no mills or lathes) at my disposal to make a mini frame while I wait for qav250s to be restocked. I am thinking of trying to punch out a frame from T6 aluminum or titanium so I am wondering how thick these frames are and if there are any good designs I should be copying. I suspect g10 and carbon would not survive shearing via a cnc punch, but if anyone knows different that would be awesome. If the weight becomes a hurdle I guess I will work on a indestructible 450.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2014 05:24
|
|
|
Well my maiden voyage on the Bixler 2 was disastrous (but not catastrophic.) Planted right into the ground right after a good hand launch, spitting the nose good. I learned that I was foolish to assume the RTF would have a correct COG. The COG is far too far forward for the battery shipped and the stock battery position. A foolish mistake but I know better now. I have been really impressed many times so far with how far RC technology has come and I guess I let that feeling lead me to indulge in an assumption. At least the damage is repairable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2014 05:35
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:So, I got quite sick for a bit, so I didn't get to maiden this until today, but it's awesome!. Practice hand catching it...practice flying straight at yourself either inverted or upright, give some up elevator (or down if you are inverted) and chop the throttle as you get up close, and grab it. It helps if you have a neckstrap on your transmitter. Much easier on the plane and it looks sweet.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2014 21:31
|
|
|
Wojcigitty posted:Practice hand catching it...practice flying straight at yourself either inverted or upright, give some up elevator (or down if you are inverted) and chop the throttle as you get up close, and grab it. It helps if you have a neckstrap on your transmitter. Much easier on the plane and it looks sweet. I guess that's also a good way of practing flying more precise. I normally don't use a neckstrap, but I got a speedstrap for my camera I could use....
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 00:46
|
|
|
Ordered a bunch of parts for a 4s QAV250 that I will be running my maybe-not-vaporware vector on when it comes out in supposedly 2 weeks, but I have a issue. Getfpv let me order 6 12amp Lumenier NFET ESC but two days later I was issued a refund since apparently they were out of stock. I know this frame has a little spot where the ESC sits in so I am wondering what other 4s capable ESCs will fit nicely? mashed_penguin please help Also suggestions on batteries and openlrsng capable receivers that ship from the US would be appreciated as well. tehk fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Jun 4, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2014 20:25
|
|
|
I've been looking into building my first quadcopter over the past week or so. I want to eventually do some FPV, but I think I will start with the basics and just getting something to lift off the ground. I'm also very interested in experimenting with automated flight control software, having some kind of uber smart drone that can navigate and map out the land. Basically I want the flying scanning orb from prometheus to be a real thing, except in a quadcopter form. Has anyone messed with any kind of range sensing equipment? sonar, radar, lidar? What is the state of the art in this sort of stuff today? I've been searching around a bit and this one seems to be the most impressive bang/buck devices out there currently: http://www2.leddartech.com/ 16 points of data @ 100hz refresh and 50m range I think the range is limited by the reflectance of the ground though, so it might be far less than the ideal max range in practice. Also found these guys: http://www.dragoninnovation.com/projects/32-pulsedlight-single-board-range-finder-minimodule cheaper than above but only single point, and not sure what the sample rate is. As far as flight controllers go, any opinions on this project? https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/navio-autopilot-shield-for-raspberry-pi I'm wondering how precisely something like this could determine its location, with all this sensor data combined, and with some kind of range sensing, to map out local topography and obstacles. Are there airspeed sensors that would work on a quad or is there too much turbulence from the rotors to get any kind of reasonable measurement?
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2014 20:55
|
|
|
I guess it depends how much you want to spend, and how much effort you want to put into development; the ardupilot project would be a good place to start, it runs on a few different hardware platforms (the most recent being the pixhawk, and beagleboard is in the works). Sonar support isn't in the current pixhawk version of the software, but is on the previous hardware (ardupilot mega/APM), so will hopefully be on the pixhawk before long. That LIDAR lite project looks to be associated with 3d robotics, who make the pixhawk/apm hardware. If you're interested in mapping, this isn't done in realtime on the vehicle, but is still insanely cool: http://copter.ardupilot.com/wiki/common-3d-mapping/ .
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2014 23:45
|
|
|
I've always wanted to get into aerial RC stuff, so today I finally got a tiny little quadcopter to try it out. Something called a Blade Nano QT. Supposedly a tough little one that's good for learning. If this works out I want to build a 450 size machine and join the local RC club, supposed to be a kick-rear end field in Allen. What the gently caress is this: http://www.foxtechfpv.com/dji-450-frame-p-398.html Has built in electrical and ... is that loving good? I read a toms article that pointed that one out specifically so I figured " Meh, Tom's has never led me wrong before"
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 00:01
|
|
|
tehk posted:so I am wondering what other 4s capable ESCs will fit nicely? mashed_penguin please help Get these http://abusemark.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=34&zenid=g34vpj1udevmre98ilhgo955r5. Edit: Ahh gently caress he is sold out too  mid june. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55241__Afro_ESC_12Amp_Ultra_Lite_Multi_rotor_Motor_Speed_Controller_SimonK_Firmware_Version_3.html These are in stock and will work but intl warehouse. The vector seems overkill for a mini quad imo. I put an afromini naze32 board in mine and it flies great. Each to their own though. I'm using these http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20752__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_4S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack_USA_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=1300 with mine and they work really nicely. I get around 7-8 mins of easy flying and 4-5 mins of full tilt. I'm not sure who is stocking openlrs gear in North America at the moment. I ordered all of mine from Asia. There is a really neat looking v2 hawkeye tx module with integrated usb that just hit aliexpress. Even has a mode switch for future power level toggling. mashed fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Jun 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 00:46
|
|
|
tehk posted:openlrsng capable receivers that ship from the US would be appreciated as well. Ships from Santa Cruz, CA and DTF/UHF is apparently a major contributor to openlrs development: http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/radio.html CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jun 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 01:19
|
|
|
Sweet thanks mashed and Crazylittle. Bummer on ESCs shipping from Asia but I guess I have 2 weeks for the vector to ship anyway. I'll check classifieds for a few days before I bite the Hk bullet The vector is going on the mini mostly because I am trying to phase out my bigger quads due to cost per crash issues and I wanted a OSD 5 months ago when I preordered. It should be sweet with a f16 style HUD setup.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 06:16
|
|
|
tehk posted:Sweet thanks mashed and Crazylittle. Bummer on ESCs shipping from Asia but I guess I have 2 weeks for the vector to ship anyway. I'll check classifieds for a few days before I bite the Hk bullet Altitude hobbies is selling "10A" ESCs with simonk firmware flashed (shipping from Colorado) http://www.altitudehobbies.com/brushless-esc-bec/ipeaka-iq-multicopter-esc-simonk/ipeaka-10a-brushless-multicopter-esc-simonk Witespy at Readytoflyquads says blueseries 12A are in stock: http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/readytofly-12-amp-rapidesc-simonk.html CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jun 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 06:27
|
|
|
tehk posted:Mini owners and scratch builders I have a question. I have a boschert cnc turret punch and a bunch of brakes and forming machines(but no mills or lathes) at my disposal to make a mini frame while I wait for qav250s to be restocked. I am thinking of trying to punch out a frame from T6 aluminum or titanium so I am wondering how thick these frames are and if there are any good designs I should be copying. Any chance of punching out more than one of these? I'd be more than willing to pay for parts/labor as long as it's not too crazy.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 06:28
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:A few local guys really like the HK FPV250 frame because it's just simple and indestructible. Indestructible? It looks to me like it has the same weakpoint at the motor mount plate that early DJI arms had.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 06:35
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:That's awesome. A few local guys really like the HK FPV250 frame because it's just simple and indestructible. I think a flat piece of aluminum or titanium in that shape would be awesome. Not really sure on thickness. When my QAV bottom plate arrives in the morning I will punch out a similarity sized one using its constraints. If that works our well I can punch them out quick as hell so no problem running a few extra for people here. My only worry is getting the weight right.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 07:51
|
|
|
PadreScout posted:
Yeah, that's a good starter frame, tons of people have them... Built in electrical refers to the bottom plate of the frame having electrical connections to distribute the power to the motors from the battery. It basically means one less circuit board (or rats nest of wiring) in the final product, worth having if you don't mind a bit of soldering.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 09:04
|
|
|
tehk posted:Sweet thanks mashed and Crazylittle. Bummer on ESCs shipping from Asia but I guess I have 2 weeks for the vector to ship anyway. I'll check classifieds for a few days before I bite the Hk bullet On my mini I have kvosd running with my naze board. Its pretty sweet $31 total for flight control and osd. It doesn't have gps but I could add that if I wanted for the cost of the gps. Its really impressive what it can do for the price. The vector does look neat though. It even has omg colours 
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 15:29
|
|
|
word of warning for adding gps to naze32 though - make sure you're not feeding 5v into the PWM pins of the naze32 board and that the GPS doesn't do it either (IE 5v ttl). Either power your GPS 3.3v or else use a 3.3v TTL step down to connect the RX/TX of the GPS. I managed to kill a naze32 board that way.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 19:21
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:Indestructible? It looks to me like it has the same weakpoint at the motor mount plate that early DJI arms had.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2014 20:32
|
|
|
Is there a glossary of terms and abbreviations somewhere? I'm a surface guy so I know basic stuff but all these strange words and letters confuse the gently caress out of me. I am waiting on my sk450 to arrive that will hopefully one day be upgraded with gps and a camera for exploring areas I can't reach on my own. I'd like to be able to figure out with of the abbreviations will help with that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2014 02:12
|
|
|
Laserface posted:Is there a glossary of terms and abbreviations somewhere? http://blog.pannuhuone.pro/p/acronyms.html
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2014 13:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 14:28 |
|
|
Holy poo poo that little quadcopter is awesome. I need a bigger one. Are there any kits that make quadcopters larger than .. loving tiny but smaller than the DJI phantom line?
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2014 22:40
|
|