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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:What oil filter and air filter brands are good? OEM is always good, WIX and Purolator are good aftermarket options. Getting the oil filter from a dealer is nice because they will sell you for the oil pan plug crush washer at the same time - otherwise you can get a pack of them on Amazon.
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Jun 5, 2015 12:25
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I am like Wix in general.
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Jun 5, 2015 14:17
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I've been out of Subaru stuff for years. Why don't people like the 2.5 anymore? I feel like back in 07 or so they were considered bulletproof.
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Jun 5, 2015 14:22
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Neptr posted:OEM is always good, WIX and Purolator are good aftermarket options. Getting the oil filter from a dealer is nice because they will sell you for the oil pan plug crush washer at the same time - otherwise you can get a pack of them on Amazon. Thanks Sadi posted:I've been out of Subaru stuff for years. Why don't people like the 2.5 anymore? I feel like back in 07 or so they were considered bulletproof. Headgaskets are crap, stock tune is lean on usdm models, not sure about international.
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Jun 5, 2015 14:58
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Spicy Guacamole posted:You answered "yes," right? Right?? Of course, I'm currently planning to keep the WRX to 100k but if they came out with a new hatch I'd be seriously tempted to trade in early. Especially if they came out with a new STI hatch using an FA engine of some sort. SUBARU ARE YOU LISTENING????
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Jun 5, 2015 15:03
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Sadi posted:I've been out of Subaru stuff for years. Why don't people like the 2.5 anymore? I feel like back in 07 or so they were considered bulletproof. Basically, it's been wrung out dry. Tune has been changed to simultaneously boost power output AND hit stronger emissions targets as well as piston design being changed for similar reasons. It's essentially a victim of its age. It can't fulfill all the roles that's being asked of it anymore. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 5, 2015 16:29
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Spicy Guacamole posted:Turbo wagons are the poo poo. Subaru: make more turbo wagons. This. Hatches are just pale immitations.
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Jun 5, 2015 19:16
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Does anyone have an FSM for a '99 OBS?
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Jun 5, 2015 21:05
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stevobob posted:60kph is where it starts, and it quiets again at around 80kph. It's been more or less the same for about 20k km. I only learned about the bearings potentially being the cause recently on NASIOC, I found this thread, specifically this guy's posts: http://goo.gl/JZns4R Before you dig in, I would keep searching for other causes. I did the same searches as you and found that thread.... as well as some other nasioc thread about how there was some shield? that was bent and touching the body, causing whining sounds. You could also leave it and see if it gets worse, and in the meantime change your fluid and see what kind of things you find on the magnet. I did and found a small mound if very fine metal particles (normal). I had a high pitched whine that started at 35mph and stopped at ~42mph. I realized it started when I got my broken strut torque arm replaced. And it was hitting a resonant frequency at that speed. I could tell also by increasing throttle (thus changing the load on the strut arm) and it would go away until I let off the gas.
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Jun 6, 2015 22:46
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http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/5060244036.html This is right around the corner from me. What's the chances he doesn't know wtf with the jumped timing (doesn't sound like he's checked it), and it's got a bad cam position sensor/no spark or something? Is it as easy as pictures look, to pop off the plastic timing cover and verify the marks?
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Jun 7, 2015 13:17
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So took my 04 wrx wagon to its first rallycross. The front right wheel bearing sounded pretty wicked when I got back on the road. Lifted it at home and it's got some play to it. Should I replace the hub when I do the bearing or reuse it? And if I need a new one, are there any aftermarket hubs (ie less than the $140 factory ones) that aren't poo poo?
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Jun 8, 2015 18:48
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Sadi posted:So took my 04 wrx wagon to its first rallycross. The front right wheel bearing sounded pretty wicked when I got back on the road. Lifted it at home and it's got some play to it. If you drive too long the hubs can get hosed up, if it looks clean you can run it. When I did the RS's first race prep, I did used knuckles with timkin wheel bearings, dorman hubs, and ARP wheel studs. Spendy but they've held up great. Cheap insurance so I can drift sideways in 3rd with heavy gravel tires or jump the sum bitch. I do not worry about knuckle swaps during a race even though I have 4 spares.
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Jun 8, 2015 19:56
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pctD posted:Does anyone have any words on air oil separators/catch cans? Do they actually provide a meaningful benefit? In my opinion they should factory installed . If you are staying relatively stock and not pushing a ton of psi then an air oil separator will work fine (grimmspeed makes a very good version), if you are going with a significant increase in boost a catch can/air oil separator would be a better bet (i prefer the beatrush catch can [Laille if you are a eurogoon])
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Jun 8, 2015 19:56
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Neptr posted:OEM is always good, WIX and Purolator are good aftermarket options. Getting the oil filter from a dealer is nice because they will sell you for the oil pan plug crush washer at the same time - otherwise you can get a pack of them on Amazon. Purolator are good but you have to use lacquer thinner to remove the yellow texture paint overspray from the o-ring groove before install or they will usually leak. I switched to WIX which are equivalent without the leaking.
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Jun 9, 2015 05:55
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Bloomberg on Subaru's recent success: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2015-06-08/subaru-sells-out-will-one-of-the-fastest-growing-carmakers-decide-to-stay-small-
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Jun 9, 2015 11:11
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I was thinking about my aerodynamics yesterday and it occurred to me that this blocked-off hood scoop probably isn't doing me any favors. Is there any reason not to remove the plastic blocking the bottom off? I know it won't help power or anything since there's no intercooler or intake there. I'm just thinking that giving that air somewhere to go might help.
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Jun 9, 2015 16:40
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blk posted:Bloomberg on Subaru's recent success: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2015-06-08/subaru-sells-out-will-one-of-the-fastest-growing-carmakers-decide-to-stay-small-  I still remember my first subie,85 gl wagon people had no idea what it was and would ask me all kinds of questions about it back then. Best memory i had in it was towing a 95 jeep grand cherokee out of a snow bank that i had just gone up.
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Jun 9, 2015 16:47
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I was thinking about my aerodynamics yesterday and it occurred to me that this blocked-off hood scoop probably isn't doing me any favors. Is there any reason not to remove the plastic blocking the bottom off? I know it won't help power or anything since there's no intercooler or intake there. I'm just thinking that giving that air somewhere to go might help. No. The block is there for aerodynamics.
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Jun 9, 2015 17:00
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I was thinking about my aerodynamics yesterday and it occurred to me that this blocked-off hood scoop probably isn't doing me any favors. Is there any reason not to remove the plastic blocking the bottom off? I know it won't help power or anything since there's no intercooler or intake there. I'm just thinking that giving that air somewhere to go might help. I always wanted to flip my hood scoop backward but it seemed like it might be a bit of a mess to do. The real problem on the GF wagon is the hump just over the rear hatch. A waist spoiler would probably help more.
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Jun 9, 2015 17:04
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If you remove the block without an intercooler below it, water that comes in during rain/etc pools directly on the spot where your knock sensor is. 4 knock sensors later, I was able to find a blocking plate (mine came without one cause the previous owner thought it was better without).
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Jun 9, 2015 17:26
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nm posted:No. The block is there for aerodynamics. You mean the one that's at the bottom of the scoop? I thought the effective cave would make for more drag. I haven't noticed the hump at the back. I'll pay more attention to it when I go to lunch. I'm not concerned about handing aerodynamics, I'm just trying to figure out why I get worse mileage on the highway than in town.
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Jun 9, 2015 17:28
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blk posted:Bloomberg on Subaru's recent success: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2015-06-08/subaru-sells-out-will-one-of-the-fastest-growing-carmakers-decide-to-stay-small- Um, isn't the BRZ exactly that? I know it's not as popular, but it exists. also, the STI? Third point: Subaru should make a light pickup. bring back the BRAT.
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Jun 9, 2015 18:33
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I just bought a 2006 Saab 9-2x, which is a rebadged Impreza. After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting to deal with some wiring, my car would no longer idle correctly. It shut off whenever I put it in neutral. After doing some digging on the internet, it appears I reset the setting for the throttle control valve, which is controlled electronically. I had to disconnect and reconnect the battery again, turn off all accessories, and sit in my car for 25 minutes while it idled. I guess this locks in the proper idle settings? I've never heard of this in any other car(although I've only ever owned Saabs and VWs), and I don't see anything in the manual about it. Is this just a Subaru thing? Seems pretty bizarre to me, tho I'm not exactly a mechanic.
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Jun 9, 2015 18:54
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MRC48B posted:Um, isn't the BRZ exactly that? Neither of those are super expensive. BRZ tops out in the low 30s depending on how it's equipped and STI starts in the mid 30s and can only barely be specced out over 40k. As a halo car, the STI was one maybe 10 years ago. Today, it's not as quick and most of the tech wizardry gets outclassed by simple family haulers. Subaru is at a critical juncture with their "sporty" cars. They essentially need to decide to poo poo or get off the pot. They've said before how they are chasing the Audi market and it's possible the WRX is going to morph into the poor man's S4. But to do so it needs to become vastly better equipped and get a decent goose in performance. The WRX is in a weird spot right now and the STI is in even weirder. There isn't a good alternative to the WRX in price/performance if AWD is on your list of purchasing wants. However, the $20-$30k 6-7 sec 0-60 market is positively crowded if you drop that AWD requirement and nearly every single one of them is better equipped otherwise. What's needed is a serious bump in power. They have the AWD which puts them at an advantage over everyone else in that range. It's rare to see a FWD car get much past mid 5 sec 0-60 no matter how much HP you throw at it due to traction. Get the base WRX in the 300ish HP range so that it's knocking on the door of sub 5 second 0-60 times. Get the STI into the mid 300 range so it's firmly in the 4.x territory for 0-60. Equip them such that a sub $20k Hyundai doesn't make them look like a late 90s relic. The big problem here is why go through the effort if you are at production capacity? It's not like you can sell more cars. But they need to be sure they are drawing the right buyer demos so that they have someone to sell a car to when they DO have more production capacity. Selling a WRX to a 20 something young professional is worth more than a 40 year old family man. You likely already have the brand loyalty of that older guy (hence the reason he's coming back). However, if that 20 something buys a Focus RS, Mustang, or 500 Abarth, it's less likely he's going to come back and buy a Legacy later in life. I do think that's one of the things feeding current sales. I bought a 2002 WRX as my first new car. I just bought my 3rd Subaru this past August with the BRZ and I guided my parents to buy a Crosstrek to replace their Vibe 2 years ago. What would I (and my parents) own today if my first car was a Mazdaspeed Protege or a Sentra SE-R Spec-V as I had originally planned?
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Jun 9, 2015 19:30
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Out of curiosity, how much should a clutch replacement on an '04 WRX hatch run, generally speaking? Mine hasn't been feeling great, thinking it's a cause of a lot of the 'bucking' I get while shifting around or starting from a stop in 1st-2nd.
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Jun 9, 2015 23:57
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Nur_Neerg posted:Out of curiosity, how much should a clutch replacement on an '04 WRX hatch run, generally speaking? Mine hasn't been feeling great, thinking it's a cause of a lot of the 'bucking' I get while shifting around or starting from a stop in 1st-2nd. The best way to test your clutch is put it in 3rd or 4th rev it up fairly high and drop the clutch, if it dies you are still pretty good if it slips you are not. I would assume a shop would charge you 5 or 6 hours plus parts. So where im from 110 an hour *6= 660 plus parts.
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Jun 10, 2015 00:19
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:The best way to test your clutch is put it in 3rd or 4th rev it up fairly high and drop the clutch, if it dies you are still pretty good if it slips you are not. I would assume a shop would charge you 5 or 6 hours plus parts. So where im from 110 an hour *6= 660 plus parts. I feel like there is no possible way this can be good for your engine. I'm pretty sure the way you do this is you put it in 3rd for a 5spd or 4th for a 6spd and you try to slip it very lightly. If you can get the car moving, your clutch is probably either glazed or dying. However, you want to stall it from near idle, not dropping it from high revs, right? That abrupt halt to the engine just seems like it's going to be massacre on the internals.
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Jun 10, 2015 03:40
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Karl Barks posted:I just bought a 2006 Saab 9-2x, which is a rebadged Impreza. After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting to deal with some wiring, my car would no longer idle correctly. It shut off whenever I put it in neutral. After doing some digging on the internet, it appears I reset the setting for the throttle control valve, which is controlled electronically. I had to disconnect and reconnect the battery again, turn off all accessories, and sit in my car for 25 minutes while it idled. I guess this locks in the proper idle settings? I don't have an answer for your question, but did you get an Aero?
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Jun 10, 2015 04:11
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:The best way to test your clutch is put it in 3rd or 4th rev it up fairly high and drop the clutch, if it dies you are still pretty good if it slips you are not. lmao
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Jun 10, 2015 05:08
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blk posted:I don't have an answer for your question, but did you get an Aero? I wish. They're very difficult to find, especially the 2006 model with the increased HP. Probably one of the coolest cars out there though. I have a craigslist alert set up in case one pops up.
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Jun 10, 2015 15:34
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si posted:I feel like there is no possible way this can be good for your engine. i didnt say pin the throttle and get all four going, just like 3kish. tell me more about how subaru's own tech manuals are wrong, hell even vw trained its mechanics to test clutches this way.
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Jun 10, 2015 16:08
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:i didnt say pin the throttle and get all four going, just like 3kish. Your original post just said to get the revs up "fairly high" and then dump the clutch, which to me (and apparently other people) seemed aggressive and kind of a stupid way to test a clutch. Don't get pissy because you didn't explain yourself better.
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Jun 10, 2015 16:15
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:i didnt say pin the throttle and get all four going, just like 3kish. My FSM says to put the parking brake on and try to move the car forward - if the engine stalls the clutch is good. Kinda assumes the parking brake is working tho. I've also heard trying to start the car on a steep hill - if you can't get the clutch to engage it's no good. I am not familiar with your method but I guess it works on the same sort of principle. Neptr fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jun 10, 2015 |
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Jun 10, 2015 17:04
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Neptr posted:My FSM says to put the parking brake on and try to move the car forward - if the engine stalls the clutch is good. Kinda assumes the parking brake is working tho. I've also heard trying to start the car on a steep hill - if you can't get the clutch to engage it's no good. I am not familiar with your method but I guess it works on the same sort of principle. When i worked at a vw/subaru dealership its how the vw tech that had been wrenching longer than i had been alive taught me, and likewise the subaru guys did it too. You are right though the end goal is the same , force the clutch to slip or stall the car.
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Jun 10, 2015 17:33
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So I took the wrx to its first rallycross. http://youtu.be/lYtDOwbPOgE The spool time was a killer. I want to stay in mod class because screw prep and going back to stock would be un fun. Due to rules I can't touch the turbo. I figure a 3" cat back, catted down pipe and some tuning time is about all I can do to bring down spool time and rpm. Any other recommendations? I wouldn't think adding aftermarket ebc would really change my ability to make boost earlier.
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Jun 10, 2015 18:07
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Sadi posted:So I took the wrx to its first rallycross. Based on your video, you should probably start left foot braking. That way, you can keep the turbo spinning and use more throttle with less understeer.
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Jun 10, 2015 18:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Based on your video, you should probably start left foot braking. That way, you can keep the turbo spinning and use more throttle with less understeer. This, Also matching your rear sway bar to the front (size wise) and getting solid end links will help in making an oversteer condition occur.
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Jun 10, 2015 18:47
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Don't need suspension, needs more foot. Car oversteers just fine in the wrong spots - but he's fighting the slide as you would on pavement. Keep your foot into it, and steer with your feet. Also turn in a bit earlier on those big turns. Probably still the best article on the subject: http://www.oldrallysport.on.ca/articles/Driving.html Simple advice that only the best ever really get down.
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Jun 10, 2015 18:55
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Learn to left foot brake. Stomp on it. Turn in earlier, unwind the wheel, countersteer quicker. Get gravels (cast off dumpster gravels are fine) and a skid plate so you can flog the ever living dongs out of it without worrying about making it home. Do the trailing arm bushings. Drive it harder. Drive it harder. Drive it harder. Also the 2.0L wrx's are kinda hosed because they tend to get stuck between gear 1 and 2 at our events, 2 is too high and 1 is too low. You see wrx guys get pissed off and just bang it off 1st for half there run sometimes.
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Jun 10, 2015 19:13
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Slow is Fast posted:
I was feeling the gearing out there. One guys (who won nationals one year in his stock bug eye) mentioned he spun a rod bearing after a red line bouncing most of the track at an event.
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Jun 10, 2015 19:21
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