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Water heater chat from earlier got me thinking about mine and I figured it's been a couple years since it was installed so I should probably check on the anode rode. What I found instead is a seemingly empty spot where the rod should be. There was a little cap with some insulation under it. Am I find to start cutting away the insulation to see what's under there? Everything I see in manual suggests that the rod should have been just sticking out of the top and very noticeable.
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Jan 7, 2019 19:28
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Crumps Brother posted:Water heater chat from earlier got me thinking about mine and I figured it's been a couple years since it was installed so I should probably check on the anode rode. What I found instead is a seemingly empty spot where the rod should be. If that is the only cap on top then it's probably under the insulation. If you use a fresh razor blade to cut it you can make a little puck you can pop in and out. That little dab of insulation probably saves you a few bucks a year in wasted heat.
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Jan 7, 2019 19:56
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Crumps Brother posted:Water heater chat from earlier got me thinking about mine and I figured it's been a couple years since it was installed so I should probably check on the anode rode. What I found instead is a seemingly empty spot where the rod should be. On electrics a lot of the time the hot water exit pipe has the anode on its bottom.
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Jan 7, 2019 20:48
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I was totally on board with this.H110Hawk posted:If that is the only cap on top then it's probably under the insulation. If you use a fresh razor blade to cut it you can make a little puck you can pop in and out. That little dab of insulation probably saves you a few bucks a year in wasted heat. But this sounds like it might be getting above my pay grade. kid sinister posted:On electrics a lot of the time the hot water exit pipe has the anode on its bottom. How do I go about checking if the latter is the case before I start taking a blade to that little chunk of insulation?
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Jan 7, 2019 21:58
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Crumps Brother posted:I was totally on board with this. Find a youtube video of someone with your exactly model of water heater.
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Jan 7, 2019 22:10
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Owners manual should also be able to tell you where the sacrificial anode is installed, if you can find it. I've had some luck in the past googling "water heater" [model number] "manual"
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Jan 7, 2019 23:41
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RAAAAARRRRHHHHHHH HOW THE gently caress DO I GET THE COVER OFF THIS BOOB LIGHT ITS TOTALLY STUCK THE ONE NEXT DOOR JUST OPENS BY TURNING THE GLASS PART AND THIS ONE IS SO STUCK
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Jan 8, 2019 01:23
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:RAAAAARRRRHHHHHHH HOW THE gently caress DO I GET THE COVER OFF THIS BOOB LIGHT ITS TOTALLY STUCK If you turn hard enough and wear safety glasses it will open eventually.
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Jan 8, 2019 01:27
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H110Hawk posted:If you turn hard enough and wear safety glasses it will open eventually. I’m incapable of getting enough torque on it, it’s a big slippery glass boob. gently caress this light. I’m gonna fix it with a hammer...
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Jan 8, 2019 01:29
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Aren't you supposed to twist the nipple off
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Jan 8, 2019 01:31
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Nipple, or spring-loaded "hands" at the edge.
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Jan 8, 2019 01:36
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This one doesn’t have a nipple it’s just a glass piece that hands down and should rotate inside a metal ring. Only it doesn’t.
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Jan 8, 2019 01:37
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Heat it with a blow torch and twist it when it's soft
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Jan 8, 2019 01:38
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I think what you’re proposing sounds vastly more dangerous than smashing out the glass and that’s already pretty dangerous.
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Jan 8, 2019 01:44
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Tapping it might help get it loose? Or get some tape to get a really good grip to turn it? Or ask your wife to help?
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Jan 8, 2019 01:56
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I tried to replace the flickering bulb on our kitchen ceiling fan, a Litex Wakefield. This cheap but sturdy fan features a bayonet-mount globe: 1/4-turn left, and it should just drop off. I did not account for three years of cooking - the globe was stuck fast. I exerted a few more pounds than I should have...and the globe broke loose, promptly slamming into the lugs on the metal housing, and shattering. I froze, holding most of the pieces in place with both hands; some came loose and rained down upon my wife, who was working at the sink. She grabbed a cookie sheet while I played statue, got it through my arms and over my head, and we caught the rest of it. Score: 1-glass cut on my index finger. 5-minutes vacuuming the vinyl sheet $85 for a new fan, just to get the globe.
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Jan 8, 2019 03:06
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Ismashing out the glass If you' e seriously gone everywhere else (you haven't) this is the express way, Put the tarps/plastic down and get er done. There is nothing wrong with blowing through things that would otherwise be show stoppers. If you want a better way post details......but it seems you can just say fuckirt and use a hammer.
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Jan 8, 2019 03:10
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:This one doesn’t have a nipple it’s just a glass piece that hands down and should rotate inside a metal ring. Only it doesn’t. To be sure, it’s not one of those with little screws on the outside of the ring that you need to loosen?
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Jan 8, 2019 03:14
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Wrapping a disposable old towel or something around it before you break it can keep it more contained, too.
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Jan 8, 2019 03:15
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I've got a sonicare 6750 that i'm trying to fix. It won't turn on and the leds don't come on when set on the base. I was originally thinking it was a bad battery, but I'm getting 3.66v off of a nominal 3.7v battery. I've cleaned off the the top of the board since it looked like a little water had gotten in. There's continuity on the pins for the charging winding. Is it worth it to pull out the battery and see if it takes a charge from a knockoff imax b6 that I have or is the problem in the chips?
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Jan 8, 2019 04:11
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Motronic posted:If you' e seriously gone everywhere else (you haven't) this is the express way, Put the tarps/plastic down and get er done. There is nothing wrong with blowing through things that would otherwise be show stoppers. Subjunctive posted:Wrapping a disposable old towel or something around it before you break it can keep it more contained, too. This instead - a sturdy shopping bag taped around the offending object should contain the explosion.
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Jan 8, 2019 11:11
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Use packing tape to laminate the glass, so it cracks but doesn't rain glass all over the place. And wear goggles anyway.
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Jan 8, 2019 13:01
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PremiumSupport posted:Owners manual should also be able to tell you where the sacrificial anode is installed, if you can find it. Crumps Brother posted:Everything I see in manual suggests that the rod should have been just sticking out of the top and very noticeable. The insulation under the little plug goes way deeper than I can reasonably cut out. At this point I think I'm just going to call the company that did the installation and ask them if they just left out the anode rod when installing the heater or if there's something else going on.
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Jan 8, 2019 15:30
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Yeah I haven't done the fixture yet because I didn't have the safety equipment to make it doable but it's absolutely casked in place. Edit and to confirm no, no screws, nothing, its twin the room over rotates readily, this one is just socked in place. I'll try the wrapping duct tape around to get really good torque on it, but the next step after that is smashing the globe (but hopefully not the CFLs trapped inside). gently caress this fixture.
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Jan 8, 2019 18:29
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What you're gonna want to do is make some glass grease. Take an old cup or get one at Goodwill, smash it in towel, mix the glass shards with some petroleum jelly, and use your fingers to smear it into the gap. Let it soak in a few minutes and it should twist off in a jiffy.
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Jan 8, 2019 20:16
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Crumps Brother posted:The insulation under the little plug goes way deeper than I can reasonably cut out. At this point I think I'm just going to call the company that did the installation and ask them if they just left out the anode rod when installing the heater or if there's something else going on. I just had mine replaced by AHS with the cheapest, least efficient Bradford White in existence. The anode is integral with the hot supply pipe and is not user serviceable. I, too, have a little cap with insulation under it, but I think it’s for another model as there ain’t anything under it. I’ll get a better one in 6 years.
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Jan 8, 2019 20:28
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Mr Executive posted:What you're gonna want to do is make some glass grease. Take an old cup or get one at Goodwill, smash it in towel, mix the glass shards with some petroleum jelly, and use your fingers to smear it into the gap. Let it soak in a few minutes and it should twist off in a jiffy. What the gently caress?
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Jan 8, 2019 22:19
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Without some glass in the grease it won't mix properly into the light fixture, so don't even bother trying to use regular grease. It's a waste of time.
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Jan 8, 2019 22:21
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cakesmith handyman posted:What the gently caress? It’s also known as “shard spread” in some places.
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Jan 8, 2019 22:21
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DkHelmet posted:I just had mine replaced by AHS with the cheapest, least efficient Bradford White in existence. The anode is integral with the hot supply pipe and is not user serviceable. I, too, have a little cap with insulation under it, but I think it’s for another model as there ain’t anything under it. I think it's where they pour the foam in during manufacturing.
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Jan 9, 2019 01:28
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Subjunctive posted:It’s also known as “shard spread” in some places. Motronic posted:Without some glass in the grease it won't mix properly into the light fixture, so don't even bother trying to use regular grease. It's a waste of time. Mr Executive posted:What you're gonna want to do is make some glass grease. Take an old cup or get one at Goodwill, smash it in towel, mix the glass shards with some petroleum jelly, and use your fingers to smear it into the gap. Let it soak in a few minutes and it should twist off in a jiffy. lol you guys are dicks.
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Jan 9, 2019 17:59
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Caulk replacement question. We have a house built in the 80s. We recaulked the bathroom last year. Over the past year it's molded significantly in one 2 foot spot. This is because the ceramic tub, in that spot, actually has a dip. The edge of the tub isn't quite level there. It dips down towards the wall every so slightly. Here, water pools and just sits against the caulk and ends up molding it. In this photo you can see the moldy caulk as well as a brown grime line. That line is essentially the edge of the pooling water. That's where the ceramic starts to dip towards the wall. The pic can be a bit optically confusing, but the mold line is where the tub meets the wall. I was going to head to Lowe's and grab some caulk and backer rod (where the tub dips, it creates a wider gap between the wall and tub which probably doesn't help in addition to the pooling water). However I feel that even replacing the caulk, it'll just end up molding again if I don't fix the pooling. What would I do to fix that pooling? I need to level the surface somehow... I'm guessing by building up on top of it with something. 
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Jan 9, 2019 22:07
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There's probably a better solution but I know they make a line of pvc mouldings for baseboards and such. If you could get a few feet of small quarter round that is similar in color to your surround you could caulk that in place. If you did it on all 3 sides & mitered the corners it might even look like it was designed that way.
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Jan 9, 2019 22:22
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I'm assuming it doesn't just come off with some scrubbing bubbles or something?
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Jan 9, 2019 23:43
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Wouldn’t running a dry towel over that area after a shower completely solve the problem?
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Jan 9, 2019 23:58
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I tried to install a TV mount for a friend, but my plan of big screws into the studs was thwarted by the fact that there don't appear to be any where I need them. Between feeling along the wall, knocking, drilling a line of holes every half inch for 24 inches and punching through every time, and finally pushing on the wall and seeing where it didn't give, I'm pretty sure it's lath and plaster with just one stud in the center of the wall. My current plan is to use 6 toggle bolts to mount a piece of plywood to the wall, then wood screws to attach the mount to the plywood. My concern here is that it's a full motion mount with a 39" TV, and I'm not sure that would be enough to hold it. Any suggestions?
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Jan 10, 2019 00:18
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Man, why does nobody seem to sell nice, quiet wall-mounted bathroom exhaust fans? The only one I can find that seems worth a drat is the Panasonic Whisperwall and that a) costs >$200, and b) requires an 8" hole while I have 6" available. Not only don't I want to deal with cutting through tile (interior) and stucco (exterior), I'm pretty sure that I don't have 8" of clearance between the studs, since the current hole goes in a gap between the end of the wall and a window. All the other fans either are ceiling-mount or are noisy as hell, just like the lovely fan I'm trying to replace. Help please? 
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Jan 10, 2019 02:51
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Noisy fans are good for masking poop sounds.
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Jan 10, 2019 03:07
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eddiewalker posted:Noisy fans are good for masking poop sounds. I am so very much less concerned about poop noise than I am about having a jet plane next to my office for a half hour after I shower. Here, I took a photo of what I currently have to work with:  That's a 6" hole with a crappy fan on top. So not only would I have to fit any new fan into a similar area, I also have to worry about how much bigger the fan cover is than the fan, because this thing only barely fits in the space available. How hard is it to retrofit a ceiling fan into a bathroom? I'm pretty sure the joists run the right way. Maybe I should just put up with having an obvious stucco/tile patch and not re-use the hole. 
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Jan 10, 2019 03:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Maybe I should just put up with having an obvious stucco/tile patch and not re-use the hole. Wouldn't have to be an obvious patch. You could put a tiny stained glass window in there. Then people wouldn't go "what an ugly patch" they'd go "why the heck is there a tiny window up there?"
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Jan 10, 2019 03:45
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