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You can’t make the installer come back and fix their poo poo? Not only half-arsed but also sounds quite dangerous...
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Jan 11, 2021 04:36
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Was a cash job, but even if I could get it 'fixed', doing so at this point would be useless anyway as the concrete's already been drilled and the only solution would be to concrete saw and break up the whole slab which would add several thousand dollars worth of work to getting the thing installed.
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Jan 11, 2021 19:09
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Update: Chinese produced "tripod style rock-a-bye-baby / drop car on self and loving die" method of vehicle elevation not preferable. Dad is helping me fabricate the manky construction into something vaguely safe to be stood within a 50 foot radius of (when not even operating). Will likely need to remove the hoist arms then replace the extensions with new ones that have threaded inserts for the sake of being able to better level a vehicle being lifted. Spades fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 22:00
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After 12 hours of work which included at one point near degloving after getting a finger crushed under a hoist column, we have a result at least: Both columns seem to be about parallel and equal height and facings wise. The downside is that the floor is not as straight as I was assured by the original excavator so the low side currently looks like this   Those are 3mm washers with a tongue cut into them to serve as shims, for a total delicious adjustment of 11/16". Tomorrow I will mix high strength industrial grout which will be pushed into the gap between the footings in order to fill the gaps and provide an even surface to press down on. This is a known method of working with crooked floors of this nature when the shimming exceeds 1/4".
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Jan 13, 2021 07:20
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Have been alerted today that the Altezza has been found, apparently having had its plates pulled off and abandoned after somebody ... stole the wing off it? The stupid little ducktail? And left everything else behind. Apparently they've caught the person who did it so imagine getting a criminal record and home detention for stealing a loving grandpa car's plastic decoration, hurf
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Jan 13, 2021 20:33
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Far out dude, you're not having a lot of luck here. You're uhh, not getting the Altezza back, right? Love the updates - keep them coming. Also, that cabinet is rad.
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Jan 13, 2021 23:03
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fingerling posted:Far out dude, you're not having a lot of luck here. You're uhh, not getting the Altezza back, right? Love the updates - keep them coming. I will see if I can get it back at a fire sale rate from the insurance (I think there may be a right of first refusal for rebuy) but I expect it will have been damaged by idiots so unless I can get it for an absolute steal I'll be writing it off. Speaking of cabinets, I did get around to making something extra -  It's a rollable tool rack to replace the crappy shelf I had in the previous place. Three drawers for attachments and disposables, a lower level for less commonly used tools.
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Jan 13, 2021 23:55
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Hoist grouting is done, though I may force some grout into the flatter side for absolute confidence. Will upload some photos later. Electrician comes this weekend to sort out the "three wires need attaching to three other wires, but for legal reasons you're not allowed to do it" issue. Also took some time today to fix the girl's Subaru's paint, which has been languishing in primer for two years - long enough for it to grow mould and cause some of the filler to fail. The back of the car and the "your model was too cheap to be painted here"tailgate/C pillar plastics had also started to become sunburned so those needed attention too.   Best result was the front fender.  Blended the clear on the middle of the tailgate pillars. Should become seamless with some compound.  Final result - Had some issues with the crappy weather fogging the clearcoat on the rear quarters, but this will be taken care of with some polishing. Also recleared the headlights which had developed some UV staining again. 
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Jan 28, 2021 08:33
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just found this thread now somehow and two points: how dare you talk poo poo on the old 202, those things were the absolute poo poo when i was in highschool (not so much for hp but for p plate legal street cred) if you ever feel the need to visit the west island and fix the paint on a ve commodore there will be many beers provided and minimal sheep jokes. on a serious note, didnt know you were just allowed to run lhd cars in kiwiland, i have only driven one here on the west island and absolutely loving hated it. take you long to get used to?
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Jan 30, 2021 17:02
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It’s not quite straightforward. Over 20yo is fine, under you need a permit.quote:You will need to get a category A LHD vehicle permit from the NZ Transport Agency. And only 500 permits will be issued per year. So there’s plenty of Mustangs, Challengers, Corvettes and Camaros running around, the odd non RHD supercar would be catered for, but pretty much anything 4 door or American pickups get converted to RHD for around $50k. Although Charger Hellcats seem to be able to get permitted, must be under 20k production. My old man had a LHD Fox body Mustang for a while, you mostly get used to it, although his lane discipline was terrible, and rear vis sucked with no passenger side mirror. Edit: poo poo I didn’t realise Jeep was selling RHD Trackhawks though, that’s neat. Pity I’m about $170k short. BuckyDoneGun fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 19:31
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big dong wanter posted:just found this thread now somehow and two points: Stories of the apparently ever-encroaching power limitations for P platers seem kind of funny - NZ uses the system of nobody having any drat money so when you get your learner's license the most you can afford is some 1980s Ford Laser (will still be crashed due to excited driving anyway though). I don't really know much about the history but I seem to remember some pearl clutching horror stories about P platers being able to drive the feared WRX Subaru after being banned from owning a 150-something HP V8 commodore by their parents and promptly being able to actually view driving as not something that has to suck forever. Also is "a v8 (of any kind) is too much power for you son" a NZ specific thing or does the sentiment exist in Aus as well? This was apparently my late mom's rationale for ragging dad into buying the i6 VK instead of the v8 model, and also refusing me buying a dogshit-slow 252 v8 kingswood as my first car. As BuckyDoneGun says, there's a few exceptions you can cite in order to import a car without conversion - it's usually easiest done if you order a car well ahead of time when you expect to need it so you can game the permits system and get in earlier. LHD isn't too bad, the main thing to get used to is overtaking requires a bit more preparation. It would be a problem in a less powerful car I think but all you need is a moment to get past in the Corvette so you just need to find a spot in the road where you can see ahead of the doofcake doing 70kmh in a Jucy van. Since the car has a pretty good seating position it's also easy to tell where the side of the road is (I just line the left side of the fender up with the white line and it places the car properly). A bit harder in the Viper where the hood rises up a bit more, haven't tried many of the other modern US cars. Spades fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 20:26
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Spades posted:Stories of the apparently ever-encroaching power limitations for P platers seem kind of funny - NZ uses the system of nobody having any drat money so when you get your learner's license the most you can afford is some 1980s Ford Laser (will still be crashed due to excited driving anyway though).
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Jan 31, 2021 17:12
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We're in WOF season now with all the cars except for the Corvette coming due at the same time, which has been an interesting process. Integra is warranted with no issues as usual. The girl's Subaru needed a variety of fixes and still hasn't finished up yet. Got a chance to use the hoist and confirmed that everything is perfect post install, which is a huge relief. I'll add some photos later but so far: -Steering rack boot full of holes -Worn front tie rod end link -Worn rear brake pads -Worn tires -Worn accessory and alternator pulley belts -Transmission needs new filter and fluid (non WOF, just needs it) -Rocker cover gasket leaks (not warrant-failing just annoying) Most of these issues were delayed maintenance as the girl hasn't been in work until more recently. Nice thing is when you're dealing with an economy car, the low power output means every little maintenance item you do related to the engine or transmission makes a hugely noticeable difference to how the thing drives. The ute has blown its head gasket and also has a leaking rear main seal so I will be looking to recondition the engine as soon as possible. 2 valves per cylinder and one can means it shouldn't be the end of the world to get the job done. I'm considering adding a 4d56 Pajero's intercooler to reduce the risk of future head gasket damage after reconditioning - pretty sure towing around a several-thousand-pound digger has worn out the 30 year old gasket from heat.
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Mar 4, 2021 09:17
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I just failed my WoF too, albeit at a place I think is shady and might have been trying to drum up some work. Leaking steering rack, rear pads, rear discs need a skim, park brake adjusting, faded headlights, wiper blades which were perfectly fine suddenly now have a split. Figured the fastest cheapest way was a good used rack, but no parts guys will confirm if what they have will fit my model. 2006 Nissan Fuga 450GT. There are several different part numbers but no one can tell the difference between them. V6, V8, RWD and AWD combinations. Last parts dude said “check with your mechanic”. Dude, he’s going to be asking you! Am also unemployed hence trying to do it cheaply.
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Mar 5, 2021 00:12
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BuckyDoneGun posted:I just failed my WoF too, albeit at a place I think is shady and might have been trying to drum up some work. Leaking steering rack, rear pads, rear discs need a skim, park brake adjusting, faded headlights, wiper blades which were perfectly fine suddenly now have a split. Is the rack just one of the end seals? Would probably be easiest to take the rack out of the car and check if replacing those does the job. Otherwise if you've got the rack out you should be able to physically show and compare it to others to see what you're looking at - weird that there'd be so many variants of the same rack when pretty much every Skyline from the 32 to 34 seemed to have the same one.
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Mar 5, 2021 04:29
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Time for some actual pictures for a change - Used some industrial baseplate grout to stuff the underside of the heavily shimmed hoist leg. Set up great, although only after I screwed the first time up royally and needed to flush it all out and try again.  Got the wiring bungs wired up with flexible cord but ran into the issue that they were still trip hazards. Decided to make some home made kick guards.   COCKS  Primered everything to keep it from going to sludge from hydraulic fluid and such that will periodically get on them. Exhaustively engaged my OCD to line up all of the taped stripes so they look continuous. Installed with some double sided mounted tape so that they can be pulled up easily enough but won't get kicked around the workshop.   
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Mar 5, 2021 05:35
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About a month later it was ready for use so in the last few days I've been working on the Subaru. Replaced the oil bung with one of those Oring models as somebody had galled the threads enough by rattlegunning the bung in at some point that a new crush washer didn't do the job.  Checked out the leak on the steering rack boot, found that it had two half inch holes in the boot. Would later find out that the fluid wasn't thin grease or power steering fluid, but actually oil leaking from the valve cover. Not a waste of time though as the boot still needed replacement.  Spent about a half hour trying to shock free the tie rod end to get things apart until I just bought a ball joint seperator and finished the whole process in 5 seconds.  Pretty clean nut and seal with no seepage.  New end link for the sway bar, removed the noticeable front end suspension knocking.  Removed the headlight which hasn't stayed sealed.  Seperated it by using spacers until the whole thing popped off at once.  Close up where you can see where the leak is coming from.  Enough water has gotten mashed into the mastic that it is all very goopy so I've put the whole thing in the hot water cylinder closet and will top up the mastic with some of my own butyl goop later. 
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Mar 5, 2021 05:41
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Spades posted:Is the rack just one of the end seals? Would probably be easiest to take the rack out of the car and check if replacing those does the job. Otherwise if you've got the rack out you should be able to physically show and compare it to others to see what you're looking at - weird that there'd be so many variants of the same rack when pretty much every Skyline from the 32 to 34 seemed to have the same one. I think pulling it is what I’m gunna have to do. That or some stop leak and scrub the boots clean. It doesn’t even look bad FFS. My suspicion is the only difference with part numbers is different suppliers over the run. And yeah, I too was expecting typical Nissan LEGO parts. Those blocks look awesome!
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Mar 5, 2021 08:23
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Resealed the headlight today by using a bunch of butyl mastic tape and the heat gun - will check in the morning to see if the water stays out as it's raining tonight and the car is back out of the workshop, conveniently. Tomorrow the plan is to get the ute rolled back into the workshop (Dad has advised to not start it at all now that the head gasket is confirmed buggered), drain fluids and apply Acetone/ATF the turbo and manifold bolts. Will need to see if there's any head damage and potentially source a new one or just gasket and go. Likely looking to do a full rebuild job as the sump and rear main both seem to have some issues.
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Mar 6, 2021 06:39
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Subaru received its WOF so that's good news for the girl. Have made most of the progress towards getting the engine out of the ute, with an interesting set of discoveries: 1) Everything leaks, just because of 2) it wasn't visible yet. Sump, rear main, head, valve cover, clutch line, turbo lines, heater hoses. 2) There is a half inch of crud over everything south of the head that is hidden from view when the manifolds and diesel pump are still attached. This photo is after spending about an hour repeatedly brake cleaner'ing the crud pile and scraping it off with a paint scraper. The initial crud was so thick I couldn't find the bellhousing bolts.  3) The head bolts were re-used and all had different amounts of torque set on them. At least one of them was fastened with a rattle gun. 4) No coolant was ever used in the block meaning that it's full of rusted hose lines 5) Somehow the water feed for the turbo from the water pump had the same OD as the OD of the flare it was threaded over, leaving me having to slit the line to get it off because it would have literally broken the line before the hose would have backed off 6) Hose clamps tightened so tight that the rubber hoses are being squeezed out between the ribs 7) Diesel line clamps tightened so little that the lines came off with the clamps still in place 8) Radiator petcock has been broken off inside the radiator 9) 5 Bellhousing bolts. 10 Bellhousing bolt holes. 10) The cam rollers on a 4d56 have little ball jointed nipples which sit on the top of the valve perfectly and are aligned when you put the cam on. These ball joints are kept by little plastic keepers which can break off when you bugger around with the cam, though they won't fall off if they're sitting on top of the valve. Whoever messed with the head broke one of them off, but just turned the valve lash adjustment down about 20 full turns in order to make up for the difference, conveniently ignoring the way that the valve can no longer be completely lowered because the nipple rotates as the roller descends, keeping the rocket aligned with the valve. This means the cylinder probably kept heating up and leads to issue 11- 11) The head bolt where the head gasket must leak rusted in place from the lack of glycol in the seeping engine coolant so hard that it bent the new SCA brand 3ft breaker bar that I put on it, rounded in the socket, and somehow doing this work hardened the head bolt. Using a diamond die grinder to cut a 11mm sized hex hole and hammering a disposable socket into it did not work harden the newly broached surface, causing it to immediately re-round the new shape.  Yesterday I spent 7 hours drilling @500rpm ranging from 5mm to 10mm drill bits in steps of 1mm to gradually get through the head bolt while periodically pausing to re-sharpen the drill bits and using a magnet to remove swarf. Even with the high as hell torque the new Milwaukee drill I picked up makes, overheating the hole would be extremely easy and the only way to get enough weight on the bit is to climb into the engine bay, sit on the crossmember and physically bear down on top of the drill. Burned through about half a cup full of cutting out keeping the bits cooled as well, and every time a bit of progress was made I'd need to climb out of the engine bay, use the magnet to remove the swarf, wipe the magnet off, and climb back in to start over again. Feels weird that such a tiny hole takes so long to cut, or that drill bits basically turn to cheese by being asked to make such a small hole as well. May need to invest in cobalt bits in future. Eventually I managed to cut through most of it, today going out to pick up 11mm and 12mm drill bits so that the neck of the bolt can be broached enough for the head to pop off. Luckily the bolt's head is 17mm and washer is about 25mm so there shouldn't be any way for oil to leak into the chewed up head hole, if I don't just replace the head. However I did get plenty of unsolicited advice about welding a bolt to it or using an easy out. I like to think that I could combine these solutions to get a massively warped cylinder head with welding spatter stuck in the valve springs as well as a bolt with a carbide-hard easy out broken off in the top of it, before having to use the sawzall to cut the head in half to get it off the block as a result. Fun fact: Science has determined that drilling one super high tensile head bolt creates enough metal swarf that it can be melted down and turned into TWO head bolts. Unfortunately this does not offset the energy consumption of the sheer anger of the person doing the drilling. Spades fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Mar 11, 2021 |
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Mar 11, 2021 05:09
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Oof. That sounds awful all around. GL
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Mar 11, 2021 13:08
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Ah there it is... the essence of DIY wrenching. When one goddamned bolt takes a whole day. o7 Are there drill bits harder than cobalt? I want to pick up a couple and keep em around even if they're $$$ just so bolts know not to try poo poo with me.
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Mar 11, 2021 17:41
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:Ah there it is... the essence of DIY wrenching. When one goddamned bolt takes a whole day. o7 While I'm going to finish getting the engine out before die grinding the remainder of the bolt neck radius (broached the head wall on one side now so going to try to minimize the removed media), it's kind of strange experiencing the broken head bolt problem because the internet makes it out to be an impossible process when in reality it's just really boring. With a TIG welder this would probably be taken care of immediately but I'm not there yet with my welding setup or skills. Next up from cobalt bits are full carbide, but usually those are more for milling machines - probably a bit fragile for using in a drill and if you do break one off the only way to extract it would be a diamond burr. Cobalt itself already breaks like carrots so they're strictly only for tool or CSK steel, imo.
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Mar 11, 2021 20:49
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My business has picked up a new client for a few months so I'll be working on the ute on weekends - 5 days less often, but the positive is that this makes the budget for the project more or less unlimited as the end of the current tax year is coming up in 20 days and when that's over with the business vehicle's repairs can be written off again. Will try to get some more photos tomorrow of where we're at at the moment. As best as I can tell the ute is down to the 4 motor mount bolts to come out of the bay, but I'll need to get a wooden pallet or something to drop it onto so I don't put a crater in the floor when it's out. Since I'm going this far and all, the plan is going to be strip a bit more out of the engine bay and repaint it in a dark machine grey. Will dissasemble the engine down to the block/crank/pistons and clean it up with some brushing diesel before applying a 2k primer and dark grey finish so that any future leaks aren't such a bitch to figure out. Also strongly considering buying a Milwaukee 1/2 impact as even the 650ftlb air impact that I have wasn't enough to break off the frozen head stud that caused this issue in the first place - $500 isn't much if it's going to save three days and a box of drill bits.
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Mar 12, 2021 08:46
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The big battery impacts are great, red, yellow or blueish.
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Mar 13, 2021 18:29
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Was finishing up getting the bullbars and crash bar off today when I decided I might as well get the headbolt's head off. After diamond die grinding the inner radius of most of the bolt out, trying to get a 12mm drill bit started inside the cap screw snagged hard enough that the drill's torque ripped the head right off: While my slightly off-center drilling managed did eat a tiny bit of the hole wall, but after getting the washer off, what the poo poo happened when this bolt was installed?  When they rattlegunned the bolt on, it looks like it deformed its washer enough that the bottom of the washer scarred the casting surface, but then there's a bunch of imprints on the head that look like they used a cold chisel on the casting for some reason. All the other bolts have clean cast holes so it's this one specifically that has been damaged this way. At this point I think it's going to be safest to get a new head - the price is about 2x the price of just getting a new cam, new cam rollers, getting the head planed and getting new gaskets and head bolts anyway.
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Mar 14, 2021 07:10
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Still have some items to be signed off with the work order so I did some more with the ute. Taking it slow as there have been so many stuck fasteners that I have finger aches as my hands physically get forced to grow stronger to work on this thing. its like exercise only it sucks Start to pull the corner that has been hit, straightening the panel out a bit so that the passenger's sidemarker light can mount properly. Slide hammer? What's that?  Took a look at the beat up crash bar. The original spot weld has broken off and instead of straightening the beam out, the 'repairer' just bent part of it down enough to hook up to the new bumper.  Turned the old spot weld into a seam and, given the heat already in the beam, straightened the bent limb out a bunch.  The heat was enough to loosen the broken off bolts in the bottom of the limb and vicegrip them out too.  Removed the fenders, both of which were for some reason slightly JB welded to the body, then had to seperate from the rusted-on mudguards. Used a dremel wheel then powered them out with a size 3 flathead.  Both the mudguard alignment flanges were cracked, so I needed to weld them back together. With a cheap welder, self-shielded MIG wire, and rusty 1mm steel, this process sucked a bit and I needed to do a lot of fillers to make up for the rust explosions.  technically this is a weld   While doing this, I re-used the heat in the steel to quickly spot a nut onto the exposed broken off thread and back the bolts off.  Well, they're back together and only somewhat porous.  Photo from earlier in the day.  Still need to actually raise the engine but I want to remove the front metalwork (it looks like it should all unbolt leaving a hole that the engine aught to be able to fit through). Have also started removing the wiring loom and remaining components from the engine bay to get it ready for painting. Will probably leave the brake hardlines in for the most part as I don't want to overstress them when I'm not replacing them.
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Mar 15, 2021 07:10
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The engine is out, I've ordered a new engine holder - 900kg model so it can take anything I need it to. A look at some of the seal failure joys  Emptied the engine bay almost completely. The loom of this truck doesn't nicely disconnect at the firewall like some of them do so I'm going to have to tuck the cables away as best as possible during the respray. ton of oil spilled out of the bellhousing so I guess we can count on a new rear main seal too.  Going to take the head off once it's mounted on the engine holder and we can see whether the block is totally trashed from the poo poo head job. If it goes that far I may just order a Hyundai-pattern 4d56t ('D4BF', but actually even still printed 4d56 on the engine block) rather than trying to fix this mess as it's about a $5k spend for a 30hp more powerful version of the same basic engine.
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Mar 21, 2021 05:20
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A trick for painting with wiring harnesses like that, if you don't want to temporarily just yank it back into the cabin (which given the nice, fat seal there would probably be pretty easy,) is tape on either end, and a couple of wraps of aluminum foil, taped at the ends overlapping the existing tape. It stays tight, and is flexible, and a lot easier to remove than tape, and easier to put on than plastic sheeting or similar. You can hang it from the ceiling or some sort of stand to keep it up and out of the way.
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Mar 22, 2021 22:49
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I'll give pulling the harness back in a go - if not I can probably hang it up with the engine crane boom extended to give some room for everything else. Today I pick up some remaining supplies for finishing up the engine bay cleanup - some of the seam sealer has cracked towards the back of the engine bay so a new can of seam sealer will be needed, as well as the actual paint and a few prep bits. Need to scrape the thick crudmess off the chassis and underbody as the bullbar area needs priming and repainting as well. That will take a while as all of the leaks from the engine and other parts of the engine bay have lead to a layer of shittery about 10mm thick in places. Will also need to lap weld two replacement grommet holes into the fender liner attachment flanges as both of them have been mangled by repeated crashings-into. Plan is to recreate a slightly larger area than the 'triangle' the grommet holes are in, drill it for sink welds and lap them over the existing ones to strength the area as well as repair it.
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Mar 23, 2021 20:24
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Initial cleanup primer coat has been done - this being basically a test pass to ensure that everything takes the primer and no basecoat reactions occur. Need to re-seam seal a few parts then rub down the whole coat and get it ready for the second priming. Had dad take care of stick welding a bunch of cracks in the bullbar mounts - turns out that both of the mounting flanges were split almost in their entireity and hanging on by a thread. Good - like it when the bullbar is the projectile rather than the shield. Weld nuts have been added to the chassis so that the bullbar can be reinstalled without needing to jam a spanner into the tiny gap around the bash plate. Interestingly noticed that the bash plate was on piece of pressed steel but had a pair of 'ears' welded onto it that mount up on the same bolts as the bull bar. As it turns out, rather than drill out the broken off bolts from the original bash plate mounting holes, the fuckface who welded up the crusty bullbar also just welded those ears on so that the bash plate actually had something to hold onto the chassis with. Is there a good portmanteau of "idiot" and "ingenuity"? Going to need to pick up a die grinder to oval out the bullbar mounting holes as they are a bit too tight to fit nicely. Podged them in place for welding the weld nuts to the chassis but the bolts started getting flattened against the bullbar mount holes when they came out.
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Mar 30, 2021 21:07
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Needed to fabricate a tool or two to get the diesel pump pulley off, but managed to get the head off at last. kids, can you figure out which cylinder was eating coolant?   Every bolt hole seemed to have oil pooled at the bottom of it, so I'm going to surmise that the head was never actually tightened properly due to oil compression in the blind holes. Not that it would matter much with the reused head bolts in the first place... After cleaning the block up a little, things don't seem too terrible just yet though.  Pitting in the cylinder is largely above the line of compression so it shouldn't cause any major oil or compression issues. Bigger concern is what actually did go wrong since the head gasket isn't obviously burned or twisted and the head itself largely seems pretty normal. Going to have a local mechanic who works on the Corvette take a look at it this week and see what we can find. Biggest concern was simply finding a cracked block under the head, but it seems like block cracks in engines are usually something you can see by close eye examination, and the casting for this block is absolutely massive for a 4 cylinder. The head still has some smooshed gasket material on it but I'm pretty sure that it is domed in the middle a little bit, enough that a steel ruler can rock back and forth on it. Spades fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 07:11
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Still one of my favorite threads esp with all the variety
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Apr 19, 2021 14:30
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Been busy between work and getting this Ute sorted so making time for a few updates tonight - Checked out some of the lenses. I will be wrapping the plastic lenses with 3M scratchguard for water protection because I don't hugely want to buy new lenses for a 30 year old truck at approximately one million dollars per unit.  The lenses have an interesting aquaculture.  Back when I was removing the wiper motor and arms, I found an issue with the wipers' self-torquing bolts having been overtorqued and also rusted, making the splines rotate freely in their plastic holes.  Tried cutting a slice in the top of the bolt/nut that was freewheeling, but it wouldn't have it. While trying to heat the bolt to release the nut, I accidentally melted the plastic spline and the whole thing feel out. Good?  Took the empty hole, shaved a bolt down and put some JB weld with a mask made from masking tape into the hole. Set it up and left it for a day.  Pulled it out later and it holds well, going to need to wet off some of the masking tape to clean it up but it'll do the job. 
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Apr 20, 2021 08:56
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Bodywise, before putting the primer down I thought it was prudent to free the seized body-to-chassis break lines to make sure they were clean and undamaged. they werent clean and they werent undamaged  That leaves about 20% of the original line's width before failure on old timey suicide brakes. Laid down black boat paint on the outside of the front shell, and some new underseal in the fenders. Blacked the frame rails out as well. Mixed a custom 60:20 dark grey semigloss to paint the engine bay with and got a reasonably passable finish.   After drying out, I put the wiring loom back into the vehicle and started shimming it and checking it for anything needing attention. And believe it or not I found things needing attention. Starter motor positive line rubbed to within 1mm of short circuiting the entire vehicle  These broken wires had been wrapped up (not individually, just one big wrap) right next to each other with no insulation and I only noticed them being broken because the tape was a different type to the original on the loom.  Horn twist taped together (the horn itself was just bolted directly to the frame so barely sounded out properly)  Completely corroded to razor thin battery terminal  Started by removing all the rattlecord and most of the original black wrap from the loom and checking all connections. Spliced and joining the breaks in the loom with heat shrink for some further insulation  New negative terminal with boot, rasped earth lugs, to be wrapped with rattlecord when reinstalled. New positive terminal, heatshruk for more insulation, with boot (modified to fit the loom positive as well), and new starter line. Forgot to buy the cable in red instead, bugger it, it will be wrapped with black rattlecord by the time all is said and done. Rasped the loom positive lug, which was covered with enough corrosion to turn it black.  Wrapped the entire loom with modern loom shielding and self amalgamating tape.   Next step is to rivnut the old push-in zip tie locations and fit them with zip tie saddles so that the wiring loom can be hung without it flexing as much and future changes being easier to make. I will also need to extent the transmission loom (the wiring coming up from underneath to the right of the bellhousing) a few inches via an extender plug set as the loom was originally held in tension by this and I want to run the loom along the top of the pinch weld rather than having it sagging over the side. Spades fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 20, 2021 09:11
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Still one of my favorite threads esp with all the variety Cheers - I like to think that some of the things I get up to with these often rear end-busted cars is entertaining to read about. Engine wise, got around to putting the engine on a stand. Pulled the sump and everything downstairs looks alright.  It took forever but I got the raw block cleaned up enough for it to be painted. This is the critical part of restoring an engine and is responsible for all of the increased performance.  Heavy coat of 2k primer.   Coated with a thin coat of VHT NuCast Cast Iron.   I have ordered a new set of welch plugs as it looks like the rear most one has been messed with and I don't trust the previous owner with having done anything on this engine properly. Found that the lower balance shaft idler gears were a bit worn, in a way that suggests poo poo got trapped in between them though and not that they have been clashing. Will try to find a replacement but I think these will be fine for now. Did notice that a lot of people don't even run the balance shafts as apparently the vibration is not particularly bad.  While having the gears checked out by the local garage, took a look at a pretty nice car that had come in for servicing. Only 4000km on the odometer - a bit of a waste not to drive this. Had been in a prang recently where the owner had let a friend drive it and they had floored it on an onramp without knowing about the mysteries of MR.    Spent a few hours cleaning RTV off the sump, which is usually a five minute job except this sump has strengthening press outs in the flange. Ended up wiping the RTV with petrol to weak its bonds then scraping it out with a broken piece of bamboo, which conveniently doesn't wreck the surface. Cleaned up the case to remove all the rust bubbling through the paint too.  Then primed and heatpainted it, though it's been so long since I have used spray cans that I ended up oversaturating the thinners and blushing the finish. Will have another shot in a week once the enamel has hardened.   Tempted to get a quart of POR-15 heat paint so I can use my paint guns to apply it in future and get a reasonable thickness/quality of finish.
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Apr 20, 2021 09:32
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I also set aside actual time in my life to perform the most important mechanical operation of this whole rebuild high performance wrinkle paint valve cover  +one hundred million horsepower now we are in 
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Apr 20, 2021 09:40
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quote:Spent a few hours cleaning RTV off the sump, which is usually a five minute job except this sump has strengthening press outs in the flange. Ended up wiping the RTV with petrol to weak its bonds then scraping it out with a broken piece of bamboo, which conveniently doesn't wreck the surface. Cleaned up the case to remove all the rust bubbling through the paint too. Love threads like this, that sounds like a really good idea...far better than a fingernail and swearing.
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Apr 20, 2021 15:20
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Spades posted:Next step is to rivnut the old push-in zip tie locations and fit them with zip tie saddles so that the wiring loom can be hung without it flexing as much and future changes being easier to make. I found push in cable tie mounts to use on my RX-7, to replace all the factory cable-tie-with-mounts that broke while removing. I did find some replacement releasable factory style ties with mounts in one size as well (apparently Honda used exactly the same ones as Mazda, and both used them for umpteen years.) I figured the stand-alone mounts would be almost as good, since I could use whatever length commonly available cable tie I needed to. I'm looking for the ones I actually bought, with no luck at just this moment. I apparently didn't buy them on Amazon. Here's some similar ones complete with ties, though: https://smile.amazon.com/Benliu-Nylon-Mount-Multi-Purpose-Holder/dp/B08GKQSVJR (availability in your nation allowing) These are more like what I ended up with: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-5-16-in-x-9-16-in-Push-Mount-Cable-Tie-Base-Black-10-Pack-Case-of-8-45-PMBUVB/301581379 AHA! EBay, and they looked exactly like the Home Depot ones. $11.23 for 100 of them in 2018. Here's 10 for $5: https://www.ebay.com/itm/174233615901?hash=item289121fe1d:g:KyoAAOSwUR9ccxEu or 20 for $10: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173879978434?hash=item287c0de9c2:g:KyoAAOSwUR9ccxEu (Same seller.) Just an example. "Cable Tie Push Mounts" seems to be the needed phrase. edit: does the wrinkle paint increase HP, or does it increase torque, because diesel? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 20:49
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Darchangel posted:I found push in cable tie mounts to use on my RX-7, to replace all the factory cable-tie-with-mounts that broke while removing. I did find some replacement releasable factory style ties with mounts in one size as well (apparently Honda used exactly the same ones as Mazda, and both used them for umpteen years.) I figured the stand-alone mounts would be almost as good, since I could use whatever length commonly available cable tie I needed to. I took a look at various push in zipties online but the dimensions of the Mitsubishi are really weird, being something like 3/16 imperial / 5.5mm or so. The m4 rivnuts' grip range is perfect for this but nearly all push ties seem to be slightly too large to fit. The saddles look something like this so close but not quite the same as your standalone tie plugs: wrinkle paint technically increases fast, which is independent of any torque or horsepower rating and can be only scientifically demonstrated by the near-lightspeed blue shift visible in motion on a vehicle with a wrinkle painted valve cover. intense stuff edit: Today finally managed to get the oil pump and diesel pump casting plates clean enough and removed the remains of the paper gaskets from the back of them. Paper gaskets are a total pain in the rear end when they've been being compressed on the back of an aluminium casting for nearly 30 years, but I found that oven cleaner does a good job of softening the material up so it can be removed with a razor blade and withering patience. Spades fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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Apr 22, 2021 06:16
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