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That's kind of the downside of racing a front engined awd car. The lighter it gets, the more front heavy it gets. But you can think of it this way: would you rather have a 3000lb car with 50/50 weight distribution, or a 2000lb car that is 65/35? The lighter car is still going to be an advantage. We went so far as to cut away pretty much everything in front of the strut towers, put in new fender tubs, and a tubular front structure to support the coolers, bumper cover, and splitter. Still front heavy. Oil accumulator and battery were in the passenger footwell. There are people going so far as to put the radiator in the back seat with inlets in the rear doors and vents out the back of the trunk, but personally I would never bother doing that. Mostly see it in rallycross where not having the radiator in a crash prone location makes sense.
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Aug 11, 2015 04:24
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It's time for ballast or driver mod (become a ssbbw feedee).
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Aug 11, 2015 05:28
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Busy Bee posted:Where can I purchase the clips? It doesn't seem to be a separate item here - http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49262290&ukey_assembly=6023547 Take it back to guys who replaced the window. They should fix it for free as they hosed up the install. This is simple poo poo that any window installer should know but somehow frameless windows are duking mysteries to them. I had the same problem, spoke to my subaru mechanic and he was like lol, tell them it is this and they suck. Spoke to the window shop manager, he knew exact what ut was and was pissed at his employee.
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Aug 11, 2015 05:36
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTnTou4YHBk
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Aug 12, 2015 00:02
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A lot of the rubber in my car is on the way out... and I can hear it. One of these days... 
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Aug 12, 2015 02:52
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Man I really need to do those trailing arm bushings.
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Aug 12, 2015 02:56
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Yeah the TIC rear bushings are good stuff. Have had the whole setup for awhile now.
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Aug 12, 2015 03:32
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I hope I'm not out of line asking for critiques of ads I'm looking at as far as subies are concerned, but what do you guys think of this 2008 impreza? Aside from it being old man tan. Are 2008's a problem year for engines on these?
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Aug 12, 2015 17:12
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BloodBag posted:I hope I'm not out of line asking for critiques of ads I'm looking at as far as subies are concerned, but what do you guys think of this 2008 impreza? Aside from it being old man tan. Are 2008's a problem year for engines on these? Read the OP on headgaskets. Other than that its the same old motor and driveline since 00+ with some variable valve poo poo slapped on top of it and a shorter rear suspension. It will be fine, headgaskets when they blow and 105k timing belt job.
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Aug 12, 2015 17:59
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08 Impreza might have mls gaskets, but I don't know.
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Aug 12, 2015 19:08
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BloodBag posted:I hope I'm not out of line asking for critiques of ads I'm looking at as far as subies are concerned, but what do you guys think of this 2008 impreza? Aside from it being old man tan. Are 2008's a problem year for engines on these? The interiors on these have been known to be very rattly, especially under the dash.
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Aug 12, 2015 19:33
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jamal posted:08 Impreza might have mls gaskets, but I don't know. In OP, you say it doesn't
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Aug 12, 2015 20:00
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:The interiors on these have been known to be very rattly, especially under the dash. *Every Subaru. I drive myself crazy rattle hunting.
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Aug 12, 2015 23:57
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jamal posted:We went so far as to cut away pretty much everything in front of the strut towers, put in new fender tubs, and a tubular front structure to support the coolers, bumper cover, and splitter. Still front heavy. Oil accumulator and battery were in the passenger footwell. any photos of the tubular front end? ive been contempating it but havent checked if its legal in the 3 different classes im trying to balance a local just did a rear mounted rad in an rx7, looking at it im questioning if its q net weight gain with the extra fluid traversing the car lastly, mind divulging the weight you were able to hit
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Aug 13, 2015 02:12
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I do not remember weight. And actually the rad support was still in, and the chassis rails to the bumper mounts. I guess not so completely cut away. Here you can see some of it:  Could have been done better. Here's another car that is still a work in progress  
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Aug 13, 2015 04:58
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Is it just me, or did Hawk brake pads jump in price suddenly? I thought they cost like $80 an axle when I had my WRX, but everywhere seems to want $115+ USD for a set of HB432F.661. Maybe I just imagined it and they were always hella pricey. EBCs also appear to be stupid dollars.
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Aug 13, 2015 23:33
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Never liked the Hawks anyways. Took too long to warm up for a street pad. I've been using Stoptechs and have been much happier. However, I just did a search for those and they are $81 on amazon right now. http://www.amazon.com/Hawk-Performance-HB432F-661-Ceramic-Brake/dp/B000COCO3K
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Aug 13, 2015 23:59
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How tough is it to remove a window from a junk yard 2000 Subaru OBW? The window is rolled down - door panel is off. I can't seem to find any instructions online on how to remove a window....
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Aug 14, 2015 00:30
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Busy Bee posted:How tough is it to remove a window from a junk yard 2000 Subaru OBW? The window is rolled down - door panel is off. I can't seem to find any instructions online on how to remove a window.... Front window? 
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Aug 14, 2015 00:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Front window? Thank you! It says to position window so bolts are as shown but since the power window motor does not work (car is completely stripped) I wonder how that will work out. Busy Bee fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Aug 14, 2015 |
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Aug 14, 2015 00:49
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I ended up buying that Subaru impreza I linked earlier. Looking forward to wearing my flannel and birkenstocks ironically now 
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Aug 14, 2015 23:46
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My fiancee and I are moving from the Canadian east coast all the way to Vancouver, and we're driving the whole way (Pets won't fly well, so they'll be safer in a car). I currently drive a '94 SC400 which obviously isn't ideal for taking people and cargo across Canada, so I've been looking at a couple of different wagons to make the trip instead. Question is, how well would an H6 2001-03 Outback/Legacy handle a 6-7 day trip across Canada?
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Aug 15, 2015 18:54
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If I'm having issues with my front passenger side door (window / motor etc) can I replace it with a completely new door? I found a guy parting out his Subaru on Craigslist and it's fairly cheap but a completely different color than mine. Would I be able to remove the outside panel from my current door to match the color and install it on my replacement door or is this crazy talk?
Busy Bee fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Aug 16, 2015 |
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Aug 16, 2015 05:33
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Yeah that's crazy, just replace what's broken.
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Aug 16, 2015 11:32
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2 tons of car jackhammering the suspension for two years oops. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wyaCLfERFU
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Aug 16, 2015 15:06
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Busy Bee posted:If I'm having issues with my front passenger side door (window / motor etc) can I replace it with a completely new door? I found a guy parting out his Subaru on Craigslist and it's fairly cheap but a completely different color than mine. Would I be able to remove the outside panel from my current door to match the color and install it on my replacement door or is this crazy talk? simple answer - no. more in-depth - the outside door skin isn't really removable, it's essentially what you'd consider the door. You can swap the motor, window, guts, etc from the donor door onto your door, but at point you're already doing a lot of work so why not just replace the parts that are giving you issues. Technically you could swap the entire door while transferring your door-guts into it, but it's just how you look at it. Now I've got an issue for old N/A subaru engine gurus: My 98 forester needs a headgasket, EJ25D DOHC so it's not really unexpected. It's got a little bit of a rod knock sound on startup that goes away after a few seconds so I'm not 100% confident in the bottom end. I want to get this fixed for as little cash as possible. I've got a good condition Baja EJ251 with about 100k km less mileage than the EJ25D in the foz sitting in my shed. From looking online it looks like I should be able to use the EJ251 block and bolt the EJ25D DOHC heads onto it to keep the wiring/intake/etc all the same. This should bump up my compression (MORE POWER still slow...) and apparently the EJ251 bottom end is much more stout. Throwing on a set of headgaskets onto the EJ25D and finding out a few months down the line that the rod bearings are toast would suck, so I'm trying to make this as reliable as possible while also spending as little as possible. Gambling on a used/junk yard EJ25D doesn't sound all that appealing since they're one of the problem engines. Good idea / Bad idea? Advice on which headgasket I should buy if I do go the franken-motor route?
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Aug 16, 2015 19:34
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Yeah good idea. New block uses 52mm rod bearing journals instead of 48 plus the normal rod length like the turbo engines. Think you stick with the thicker dohc gaskets and everything works fine but I am not sure on that. Could be you actually want the thin ones? I think the 25d gets a worse rep than it deserves though.
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Aug 16, 2015 19:52
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I posted a few times in this thread about the wind noise in my 2001 Subaru OBW after a new window installation. I'm pretty certain that it was a lazy install on the auto shops part and they didn't make the proper adjustments to keep the noise out. The noise is coming from the front drivers side window near the gusset. Some people thought that I would need to replace the gusset but I do not think that is the issue. I can see that when comparing the front drivers side window to the the passenger front window, there is way too much room on the front of the new window that was installed. When I'm driving and I put force onto the new window near the gusset end, the wind noise stops. I want to figure out how to properly adjust the window so that its mounted more flush against the window gusset. I have the manual here:  I took apart the door panel and could not find the necessary bolts and screws to make the adjustments. Does anyone have experience with this? Bajaha posted:simple answer - no. That's what I assumed... thank you for the clarification. Busy Bee fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Aug 16, 2015 |
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Aug 16, 2015 20:08
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My sister just bought a 2004 Outback with the 2.5 four cylinder (mileage is just under or just over 100k), I know spark plugs are a common deferred maintenance item due to difficulty removing them. Is there a good write up documenting the procedure? Peeking under the hood there's next to no room to work between the heads and the frame, and being the resident family mechanic I'll inevitably get roped into doing the job. Oh - automatic transmission if that makes a difference.
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Aug 16, 2015 22:19
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You're in luck! It's a SOHC so the spark plugs are angled up for easier access. Remove the intake ducting/tubing and you'll have access on the passenger side, for the drivers just remove the washer bottle and you should be good to go. It's pretty simple otherwise, once you take a good look you'll figure it out.
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Aug 16, 2015 22:36
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Yeah all you need is a regular spark plug socket and an extension. For dohc cars one of these helps a lot: 
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Aug 16, 2015 23:28
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For a DOHC you just do them when you are doing the headgaskets or putting in a 2.2 because the rod bearings spun.
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Aug 16, 2015 23:31
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Yay, my car's back (minor machine shop error=sucks)! Please don't break again 
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Aug 16, 2015 23:37
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Slow is Fast posted:For a DOHC you just do them when you are doing the headgaskets or putting in a 2.2 because the rod bearings spun. Hey those things only happened to me once. So far. And I changed my spark plugs without having to do anything else recently.
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Aug 16, 2015 23:41
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Yay  I put the car on ramps last night and found out why the PO sold the car. Driver's side headgasket is weeping oil behind the exhaust header.  Any way to retrofit a spin-on oil filter on a 4EAT that has a blockoff plate? Anyone know a good subaru guy in Houston?
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Aug 19, 2015 10:56
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BloodBag posted:Yay That's an odd spot for the headgasket to fail, you 100% sure it was the hg?
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Aug 19, 2015 19:40
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:That's an odd spot for the headgasket to fail, you 100% sure it was the hg? I'm not 100% sure. I've had camrys with worse leaks that ran forever. It's coming from the bottom right corner if you're facing the engine from the left side. It's around the HG area, I see a bit seeping down the back of the oil pan on that side. Could it be that plate thing back there?
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Aug 19, 2015 19:57
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A 2008 Impreza shouldn't have an oil separator plate issue; after, like, 2001, they're metal and basically trouble free. I'd bet on valve cover gasket before anything else.
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Aug 19, 2015 20:58
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BloodBag posted:I'm not 100% sure. I've had camrys with worse leaks that ran forever. It's coming from the bottom right corner if you're facing the engine from the left side. It's around the HG area, I see a bit seeping down the back of the oil pan on that side. Could it be that plate thing back there? It could be heads I just haven't experienced it, most hg failures i have experienced are internal leaks of oil. There are two oil passages on the flywheel side about half way up the block though. I would just double check , rule of thumb is follow the "wetness/damp road grime" up until it stops, then start scanning along that elevation. Seat Safety Switch posted:A 2008 Impreza shouldn't have an oil separator plate issue; after, like, 2001, they're metal and basically trouble free. I was going to say those lovely half moons (they literally always leak), but there is a fair amount of distance between the hg and valve cover.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:02
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Let me know if this is in the wrong place for this kind of request: I want to replace the center dash on my 2006 Outback so I can put a decent stereo in it but I do not want to do it myself. Last time I tried removing the dash in this car was not a good time. Is this something any CarToys can do for me or should I find a specialist? I'm in Seattle if that matters.
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Aug 20, 2015 01:29
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