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Nevets posted:I'm not sure that will work, those are made to stick to glass and I think pretty much all TV's now have a plastic screen. Y'know, I was trying to remember the "McMaster-Carr" name yesterday, because I was sure they'd have a decent product on offer for this situation. That's a little pricey, but not outlandishly so. And yeah, thanks for confirming my suspicions about trying to join two sheets. Jerry Cotton posted:If you want a sheet of thin plastic, just go to a plastic store and ask for a sheet of thin plastic. Just make sure to get one with protective film on both sides if you don't want it to come pre-scratched. I don't think I've ever seen a "plastic store". Is there some other term I can search by? I mean, Home Depot has a few plexiglass sheets, but their prices are absurd and they also stop at 1/8" thick.
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Apr 8, 2019 16:10
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I posted a a few days ago about my electric dryer's auto dry function not working..(Likely due to a failed timer) Welp I discovered last night after running a cycle, that the dryer never got hot at all, even on timed cycle. Element doesn't appear to heat up. Will be tearing into it tonight, hope it is as simple as the element. Unless the timer broke further and is not engaging the heating element period. Edit: It was the drat timer. Element contacts inside the timer where basically melted. Well at least auto dry will probably work again! stevewm fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Apr 9, 2019 |
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Apr 8, 2019 16:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Y'know, I was trying to remember the "McMaster-Carr" name yesterday, because I was sure they'd have a decent product on offer for this situation. That's a little pricey, but not outlandishly so. And yeah, thanks for confirming my suspicions about trying to join two sheets. TapPlastics, ePlastics, USPlastics are all alternatives to McMaster. Plexiglass is one option but if you don't need it to be clear, check out PVC foam board for a cheaper option.
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Apr 8, 2019 16:40
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Wandering Orange posted:TapPlastics, ePlastics, USPlastics are all alternatives to McMaster. Plexiglass is one option but if you don't need it to be clear, check out PVC foam board for a cheaper option. Thanks, it's going over a TV screen so transparency is a little important.  There's a TAP Plastics in San Francisco, kind of a pain to get to, but good to know it's available. The other names you listed aren't anywhere near me.
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Apr 8, 2019 16:47
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't think I've ever seen a "plastic store". Is there some other term I can search by? I mean, Home Depot has a few plexiglass sheets, but their prices are absurd and they also stop at 1/8" thick. I'm sorry I can't help you there but if this city has one I'm sure there's one near you. (On the off-chance that you're in Finland, go to Etra/Etola.)
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Apr 8, 2019 22:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't think I've ever seen a "plastic store". Is there some other term I can search by? I mean, Home Depot has a few plexiglass sheets, but their prices are absurd and they also stop at 1/8" thick. Window replacement companies can also get you plexiglass, cut to size. Those are all over.
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Apr 9, 2019 00:27
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Plexiglass is really, really easy to cut if you have a table, a straightedge, and a plexi cutting knife (which is only a few bucks). You score it with the knife, slide the score mark past the edge of the table, and press down to snap off the excess on the score line.
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Apr 9, 2019 01:10
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My window air conditioners are due for a cleaning this year. I’ve never cleaned them before in the 6 years I’ve had them. How do I do this safely? Do I just spray some simple green in the grates and hose it off?
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Apr 9, 2019 12:58
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Ah the joys of home ownership.. While pulling my dryer out of its space to repair it.. I discovered the quarter turn shutoff valves on my washer hookups are leaking just a bit around the handles. Looking under the hookup box, you can see the water has been seeping down the PEX and down into the wall. So now I get to tear some drywall out and see what is rotted and replace the valves. Yay! Must have been some lovely quality valves; they are only 5 years old and already leaking.
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Apr 9, 2019 20:06
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So, I've inherited a lovely house. (Subtitle: what is a roof?) If it rains for 5 straight days I get very minor leaks in two locations. If it rains one day everything is fine. Got some asphalt tiles missing since the last hurricane. Apparently replacing roof tiles costs thousands to tens of thousands of dollars. Wtf. Why am I paying people thousands of dollars to put goop and tiles that fly away on my house? Why don't we just make the roof waterproof using materials that don't biodegrade in my lifetime? Someone tell me why I shouldn't just flex seal my roof and call it job done.
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Apr 9, 2019 23:34
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It does not cost thousands of dollars if it only needs a few repair tabs. Have you gotten someone to look at it? Was the house not insured during the storm that caused the damage? How old is the roof? No you can't flex seal it.
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Apr 10, 2019 00:15
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No, idk, idk. Have you seen the flex seal commercials tho? They made a screen door boat.
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Apr 10, 2019 00:23
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Kharmakazy posted:Why don't we just make the roof waterproof using materials that don't biodegrade in my lifetime?
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Apr 10, 2019 01:02
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i like nice words
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Kharmakazy posted:No, idk, idk. So where are you getting a tens of thousands dollars quote from if no one has looked at it?
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Apr 10, 2019 01:34
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Google. Trying to gauge the price on like 40 different webpages all link back to the same tools.
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Apr 10, 2019 01:45
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My house had a roof leak in our roof last year. Cost like $300-ish to have patched by a professional roofer to replace a dozen or so shingles. Oh, and they came out for an estimate for free. I know asphalt roofs aren’t the same as shingles, but I find it hard to believe the numbers would be *that* different. Maybe costs are higher in your area or you need really extensive work or whatever, but if someone is legitimately quoting you tens of thousands for just patching a few tiles, I’d really really get a second opinion and make sure they’re not screwing you.
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Apr 10, 2019 02:58
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It would also be me screwing myself for not understanding any of the underlying concepts.
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Apr 10, 2019 03:04
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Don't believe online estimates; they have no idea about the specifics of your situation. Call contractors, ask them to come out and give you a quote. Get at least three quotes unless it's under $500.
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Apr 10, 2019 03:16
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Is it possible to paint particle board/MDF kitchen cabinets? The laminate is peeling off some of my cabinets and it would be nice to fix that up
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Apr 10, 2019 07:13
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Do you mean you want want to remove the laminate entirely and repaint the bare wood? Particle board looks really crappy when painted unless you basically spackle & sand the entire surface first to get it smooth. MDF is better since the surface is smooth and uniform. In either case you are going to have to completely remove the glue first. Do you live in a humid climate? From what I understand cabinets in the south are often treated as disposable for this reason.
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Apr 10, 2019 15:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Don't believe online estimates; they have no idea about the specifics of your situation. Call contractors, ask them to come out and give you a quote. Get at least three quotes unless it's under $500. Absolutely this. I went looking for online estimates to get my siding redone that put me at around 20K. Got three real life estimates and they all came in well under that number.
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Apr 10, 2019 22:31
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Not sure if this is the best thread for this, redirect me as needed. I have a huge basement with concrete walls, and I want to take a part of it and set up some pegboard so I can hang manly, guy stuff off it Star Wars toys. Looking online, a few places recommend drilling holes with an impact drill into the concrete and mounting wood strips, and then mounting the pegboard to the wood strips. With my walls here, where would be the ideal place to put the wood, if that's even the best idea? And what wood should I use? There are sections with little holes in them already, I'm not sure if I should use those "cracks" that are already there, or a fresh area. The pegboard sheets I have are about as long as two "sections" of the concrete when turned sideways, and close to 1 length when vertical.  
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Apr 10, 2019 23:32
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Medullah posted:Not sure if this is the best thread for this, redirect me as needed. Is there an exposed sill plate at the top of the wall? —the board on the top of the concrete foundation that the joists sit on. I used those same peg handipanels, framed them in 1x2s on the back to hold them away from the wall (so hooks have a place to go through) then hung the whole assembly from the top with construction screws into the sill plate. You could put a bead of construction adhesive between those 1x2s and the concrete for good measure. The sill plate might be set back, but you can probably shim it with a 2x2. Extra tip: use cup washers and wood screws to attach the pegboard to your furring strips for a clean look. 
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Apr 10, 2019 23:48
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I have a very old bedroom that has 3 walls of plaster and lath. About a fifth of it is crumbling or visibly cracked, another fifth is noticeably loose behind many layers of wallpaper, and the rest has various amounts of bowing and deformation. Is there any conceivable reason not to knock it all out and drywall instead of patching and painting?
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Apr 11, 2019 02:30
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Other than it being a huge pain in the rear end, messy as hell and likely to be about 800 lbs of demo rubbish?
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Apr 11, 2019 02:37
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Plus almost certainly lead and maybe asbestos. For a bedroom, I’d just knock off the loose poo poo and sheetrock over the plaster and lathe, personally.
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Apr 11, 2019 02:43
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It's a perfect use case for 1/8 or 1/4" sheetrock - just encapsulate that poo poo. If it's really uneven then use 1/2" drywall and shim it up so you can rock it flat.
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Apr 11, 2019 03:01
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This is the general vibe of the worst and best parts of the walls.  If I just covered the old with drywall, is any of the looseness or bowing worth worrying about, or does that all get screwed in nice and tight?
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Apr 11, 2019 03:05
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Those walls are in really poor shape. I’d personally go with the 1/2” and get a big rear end level and shim it out as needed.
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Apr 11, 2019 03:45
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eddiewalker posted:Is there an exposed sill plate at the top of the wall? —the board on the top of the concrete foundation that the joists sit on. Hmmm that might work - any chance you could show me a pic of how you have it?
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Apr 11, 2019 03:53
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stupid puma posted:Those walls are in really poor shape. I’d personally go with the 1/2” and get a big rear end level and shim it out as needed. Agreed. Those look too far gone to do a successful 1/8" job. But the real test is getting that bigass straightedge on the walls all over to see just how far out they are. But they look like they're gonna be too far.
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Apr 11, 2019 14:26
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Hey DIY long time reader first time poster. Does this look like asbestos to you? It’s a hard surface, not as soft as the texture appears. Looks like it was blown in a liquid form maybe and hardened? It’s all across an exposed roof in a building I work in and they frequently do work on it, so the normal “don’t disturb it” advice doesn’t seem to apply. Drilled through it to install wireless access points recently for example. Covers the entire ceiling - lots of beams, vent ducts etc. They’ve run newer infrastructure (fire suppression system, internet, etc) over the top of it.  Old government building for what that’s worth. Second question: if it is, how worried should I be? Like I said they seem to work on it semi-often and my office is about twenty feet from where I took that pic. I’ve got a false ceiling etc but I assume I’m getting the same AC etc.
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Apr 11, 2019 14:55
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Cyrano4747 posted:Hey DIY long time reader first time poster. That stuff always sketched me out. It's spray applied fire proofing to help prevent steel beams from melting. I was always told it's gypsum/cement and mysteries, not asbestos, but we loving loved our asbestos. This was in the Aon building in downtown LA which actually did burn once, and according to their informational video is the basis for high rise firefighting. That doesn't mean that you want to be breathing it in, it's still going to shed ultrafine dust. But I've had several chest xrays since working there, no signs of asbestos. They also rarely worked on it.
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Apr 11, 2019 15:08
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Looks exactly like my work area. They just sprayed this 2 years ago, so I assume it’s cool. 
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Apr 11, 2019 15:14
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Cyrano4747 posted:Hey DIY long time reader first time poster. You can be confident that it's not asbestos if the building is post-1980 construction. Also, they'd be breaking a bunch of rules if they do work on asbestos containing materials without precautions and tenant notifications, so hopefully...
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Apr 11, 2019 15:31
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glynnenstein posted:You can be confident that it's not asbestos if the building is post-1980 construction. Also, they'd be breaking a bunch of rules if they do work on asbestos containing materials without precautions and tenant notifications, so hopefully... It’s not post 1980 i know that much. 60s iirc. As for tenant notifications its all government with a healthy dose of military.
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Apr 11, 2019 16:16
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Cyrano4747 posted:It’s not post 1980 i know that much. 60s iirc. Good luck!
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Apr 11, 2019 16:40
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Question on ceiling fans. We had our builder put in an extra switch on the bedroom lights for future ceiling fans we'd put in, but we're running into trouble figuring out fans that actually do that. We want one switch to control the light on the fan, and the other to control the fan itself. Seems they're either remote, or they include their own wall control unit.
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Apr 12, 2019 02:02
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Omne posted:Question on ceiling fans. We had our builder put in an extra switch on the bedroom lights for future ceiling fans we'd put in, but we're running into trouble figuring out fans that actually do that. We want one switch to control the light on the fan, and the other to control the fan itself. Seems they're either remote, or they include their own wall control unit. Edit for clarity - the only limiting factor is whether or not there is a pull chain for the fan - Sans a remote, you obviously need a chain to control the speed. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Apr 12, 2019 |
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Apr 12, 2019 02:11
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Omne posted:Question on ceiling fans. We had our builder put in an extra switch on the bedroom lights for future ceiling fans we'd put in, but we're running into trouble figuring out fans that actually do that. We want one switch to control the light on the fan, and the other to control the fan itself. Seems they're either remote, or they include their own wall control unit. The cheapest fan home depot sells had it. I would be shocked if you found one that didn't. And you can use a fan speed controller in leui of a chain or remote, but I would use the chain or remote. It looks like a dimmer but it's not. A dimmer will make your fan sad.
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Apr 12, 2019 02:20
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