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If you aren't an artist, I would say that a large percentage of "skill" is either brush control, understanding paint consistency, and tips and tricks you can pick up in a good forum/YouTube video.
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Feb 22, 2019 14:07
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dexefiend posted:If you aren't an artist, I would say that a large percentage of "skill" is either brush control, understanding paint consistency, and tips and tricks you can pick up in a good forum/YouTube video. Yup, all of this. Painting seems to be so much about getting a right feel for the medium and developing your own personal suite of techniques.
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Feb 22, 2019 14:19
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My first attempt at painting a power weapon: I'm really satisfied with how the gradient turned out, though I did learn that you can be too subtle, so I had to do the dark bits all over again. Should I stop here, or add some edge-highlighting?
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Feb 22, 2019 14:21
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My technique Apply basecoat to innermost layer first, ie start with skin and work outward. gently caress, I got skin tone all over the clothes Paint clothes, making sure to paint over mistakes gently caress, I got clothes color all over the armor and the skin Paint armor color, making sure to paint over all mistakes Go back and paint skin again Paint clothes again Paint armor again Furiously continue correcting and creating mistakes until you have something you're happy with or give up and go play video games
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Feb 22, 2019 14:23
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Oh, forgot to say my key axiom of paint thinning: The thinner the paint, the less of it you can have on your brush.
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Feb 22, 2019 14:51
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Tentacle Party posted:Finally finished my first GW figure in at least a decade, since 5th edition anyway. This is excellent rust, and I'd like to know your recipe.
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Feb 22, 2019 14:57
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CapnAndy posted:Urrghghghghghhhhh how do you fuckers do things so quick, I spent two hours tonight and accomplished the chests of three Space Marines and most of one left arm. Also I learned the valuable lesson that trying to get gold to show up over blue results in thin_your_paints.jpg and I should have done the gold first, and I hate everything and what I did was crap. Tonight sucked. Keep plugging along, my dogg. Progress will come. Here's my first and last minis since my return to 40k in fall of '17:  
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Feb 22, 2019 15:20
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After a several month hiatus I glued some cork onto a plastic base. Progress. e: And now glooped black lava all over it! I'm on fire drat. Sultan Tarquin fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 15:33
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inscrutable horse posted:My first attempt at painting a power weapon: I would put the edge highlight on it. Doing it on swords is really easy and definitely helps the whole thing pop.
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Feb 22, 2019 15:57
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I got a new phone a while back and it turns out the camera is substantially better than my old one, so I broke out the photo booth and took some much nicer shots of some recently finished stuff     Sponge weathering is the best.
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Feb 22, 2019 17:01
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Inspector_666 posted:I would put the edge highlight on it. Doing it on swords is really easy and definitely helps the whole thing pop. Took your advice, and it does! Wasn't quite as easy finding the right colour, but I settled on Troll Slayer Orange.   Overall, I'm really satisfied with the results. Some of the swords look a bit janky, but those are the results of several experiments trying some "easier" ways of painting, none of which looked even passable IMO. In the end, I used the paints on the picture + a 50/50ish mix of adjacent colours... so 15 or so shades all in all.
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Feb 22, 2019 17:05
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inscrutable horse posted:Took your advice, and it does! Wasn't quite as easy finding the right colour, but I settled on Troll Slayer Orange. They look fantastic
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Feb 22, 2019 17:51
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While that base was drying I assembled Spiteclaws Swarm and man these mouldings are really really nice. I barely had to do any mould line cleanup at all. A couple of the sprue connectors were in awkward places but that was about it.
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Feb 22, 2019 17:59
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Both the angle and the resolution of that second picture make it really hard to tell, inscrutable horse. But yea I think the highlights look great.
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Feb 22, 2019 17:59
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
I think this looks really good. I'm a fan of non-box art schemes for the assassins. I did an Adeptus Mechanicus assassin a while back:   Regarding your other posts, I think red would pop a bit more and tie into the rest of your forces really well.
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Feb 22, 2019 18:22
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Psyber Spine posted:One trick is to paint the area you want to be gold with a brown paint with a similar tone first. Sab669 posted:Can you share some pictures of what you've done? How are you going about your scheme? Do you have a plan before you attack them?
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Feb 22, 2019 18:38
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CapnAndy posted:Really! Can you explain why that works and if the general principle can be applied elsewhere? I'm colorblind. Paints are translucent, so the undercoat will have an impact on how the final product looks. For example if you base white then your colors will be more vibrant, and if you base black you can get a more grimdark look. Another example is preshading, where you use different tones on the undercoat to achieve a particular effect on the top layer.
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Feb 22, 2019 18:47
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Sab669 posted:Both the angle and the resolution of that second picture make it really hard to tell, inscrutable horse. But yea I think the highlights look great. Yeah, the dollies in the second picture were more of an afterthought - I just wanted to show off the paints I had used, from darkest to brightest. Thanks for the kind words, guys 
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Feb 22, 2019 20:12
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dexefiend posted:Oh, forgot to say my key axiom of paint thinning: I have a question that is kinda relevant to this. I broke out my miniature's painting kit for its annual "I'm going to paint miniatures again!" stint and I've been using a new set of paints that my wife got me as a present.  This. In the past, I've always used GW or GW-style paint pots instead of the droppers these colors come in and I used to build a simple wet palette (especially since, as already said, these colors used to sit unused for prolonged period of times).  These, from a picture I've posted in this very thread almost 4y ago <.< I've found out that, while some o the colors in the Army Painter kit are similar, consistency wise, to the potted colors I was using before, most of them are way more thin/liquid already. I tend to paint miniatures at a gaming quality, for boardgames and such - so I don't usually spend more than 1h on a single model - and by now most of my skill is just muscle memory...but it turns out I'm not used to work with properly thinned paints you would use for layering and other more advanced techniques (I normally just basecoat > base colors > highlight/drybrush > wash > highlight again and call it a day). Is there something that acts like a "reverse" wet palette - to make your paint less thin? That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 21:48
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grassy gnoll posted:This is excellent rust, and I'd like to know your recipe. Pretty simple really, I used Orange Leather, Mars Orange and Sol Yellow from Scale75. You can use any brand though, its all about stippling and making some textures, building from dark to light. 
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Feb 22, 2019 22:23
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That Italian Guy posted:I have a question that is kinda relevant to this. Kind of a stupid question but are you shaking your paints well? A lot of paints, army painter included, have a tendency to separate so if you don't shake very well every so often you'll squirt out mostly medium with very little pigment. As for a reverse wet palette, I don't think such a thing really exists. Acrylic paint cures as it dries, that is while it thickens it also turns to plastic. That said if you use a flat dry palette like a ceramic tile it will probably dry out pretty quickly so I guess you could give that a shot. You could also try mixing the liquidy paint with a heavier paint, but of course that will effect the color.
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Feb 22, 2019 22:48
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That Italian Guy posted:I tend to paint miniatures at a gaming quality, for boardgames and such - so I don't usually spend more than 1h on a single model - and by now most of my skill is just muscle memory...but it turns out I'm not used to work with properly thinned paints you would use for layering and other more advanced techniques (I normally just basecoat > base colors > highlight/drybrush > wash > highlight again and call it a day). Is there something that acts like a "reverse" wet palette - to make your paint less thin? Just use a dry palette with the AP stuff, I also find it's thinner than the GW stuff so I generally just throw it on a takeout container lid. Also the first few drops are usually mostly medium, AP even says to kind of waste them off to the side even after you shake the droppers up.
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Feb 22, 2019 22:54
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So I stripped my airbrush, cleaned the parts in diluted white vinegar from an online instructional last night, and everything looked good. Ran some airbrush cleaner all the way through before drying out the cup and then did a coat of Vallejo Air yellow, did the cleaning routine again, then another of Vallejo Game Air Sun Yellow. Gonna try a third color later tonight. However I noticed after the second run I had some yellow that was refusing to clear out. I did the pinching of the nozzle with a paper towel and backing up excess into the cup, but I still had to take the front few pieces off and wipe the needle off. Am I missing a step in keeping paint off my needle? The performance while painting was fine.
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Feb 22, 2019 23:23
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That Italian Guy posted:Is there something that acts like a "reverse" wet palette - to make your paint less thin? You can add gel mediums to thicken them, but I highly recommend not doing this. Edit: I tried it once for an impasto impressionist effect, it was really weird and unintuitive to work with.  
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Feb 23, 2019 04:10
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Also, first time airbrushing GW washes on this WIP. Golden hi flow iridescent gold, Reikland Fleshshade, Seraphim Sepia, Agrax Earthshade. They look real nice. 
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Feb 23, 2019 04:30
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Also, first time airbrushing GW washes on this WIP. God drat i wish i had an airbrush so i could steal this recipe and make a Morkanaut that looks like that. Those are going to look incredible.
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Feb 23, 2019 05:27
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I promised pictures of last night's disasterpieces.  Here's the most finished guy and his left arm. Not sure why his grenades have come over all blue, probably need another coat. Note the crap chest emblem, it's gonna be a theme. The arm isn't as bad as I remember it looking last night. He's the only one I've done any work on below the waist and I actually like all of that, even if I think one of his pouches got a splotch of blue that's just gonna need a quick cover-up when I do final touch-ups.   Second guy and his left arm. Emblem got buried in glop but from the chest up, I like him. Left arm is visibly gloopy I think.   Boss guy and his arm. Somehow he dodged most of the atrocities, there's even still a pretty obvious raised area between the gold trim and blue shoulderpad.
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Feb 23, 2019 06:07
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:You can add gel mediums to thicken them, but I highly recommend not doing this. thicc your paints
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Feb 23, 2019 06:49
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Army Painter paints need to be shaken vigorously and long, if it's been sitting long then you probably need to stir them. Just pull out the nozzle with your fingers and stir the paint with something, make sure to scrape the walls of the bottle. This goes for most old paint. I like to add a stainless steel ball, out helps with stirring when shaking, and also creates an easier sound to help you hear when the paint has been thoroughly shaken.
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Feb 23, 2019 09:32
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Thanks for the suggestion people! I'll try stirring the paint better (and I'll try the bearing ball trick as well), since I can definitely see the medium/pigment being not properly mixed in a few containers. By the way, not really a perfect solution, but I've tried using recyclable disposable plates as a palette (the "paper" kind) and it kinda works as an anti-wet palette, sucking away some of the moisture from the paint. Far away from a perfect solution, though...I guess I'll just have to learn to work with thinner paints now that I'm using the AP ones.
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Feb 23, 2019 10:21
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Stainless steel balls will eventually rust, which is obviously bad for paint. Go with glass beads.
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Feb 23, 2019 13:35
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Assassin ready!    Still need to varnish and do some minor fixes, but overall I think it's great.
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Feb 23, 2019 15:00
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Slimnoid posted:Stainless steel balls will eventually rust, which is obviously bad for paint. Go with glass beads. I use ceramic pie weights. Don't tell my wife.
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Feb 23, 2019 15:00
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I use ceramic pie weights. Don't tell my wife. I got in so much trouble using our special Tupperware where you can pump the air out for messy hobby stuff.
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Feb 23, 2019 16:37
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CapnAndy posted:I promised pictures of last night's disasterpieces. I think whoever it was that said minis painting is mostly just a matter of experience to "learn what techniques work for you", and also finding "the largest brush you're able to work well with" were both right. When I was working on my Death Guard last year, it felt like it took forever just to put 2 layers of Green down over my Brown primer.
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Feb 23, 2019 16:51
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Assassin ready! The accent colors really brought it all together. 
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Feb 23, 2019 16:56
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Hey beer how did you do the rocky parts of your base that come up a little bit?
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Feb 23, 2019 18:24
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Slimnoid posted:Stainless steel balls will eventually rust, which is obviously bad for paint. Go with glass beads. Ahem. About half of my AP droppers have stainless steel balls in them as we speak. Isn't stainless steel supposed to be rust free?  The ballsy paint seems to be working better (at least unless everything becomes red due to rust) and, aside from a couple of colors that still feel very watery, the paint behaves in a more familiar way. I've field tested them on the Scoundrel miniature from Gloomhaven. Hardly a decent piece, but I'm happy enough with it since it took about 1h to do it from primer to finish and it's going to live in a small box and it's going to be handled a lot for game reasons.  It could probably do with at least some additional highlights (especially the skin tone) but I'm a bit baffled by the weird surfaces some parts of the miniature have - like the "ridge" right below the right eye. That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Feb 23, 2019 |
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Feb 23, 2019 19:14
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That Italian Guy posted:but I'm a bit baffled by the weird surfaces some parts of the miniature have - like the "ridge" right below the right eye.
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Feb 23, 2019 20:03
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That Italian Guy posted:About half of my AP droppers have stainless steel balls in them as we speak. Isn't stainless steel supposed to be rust free? I am no material scientist but if I remember correctly stainless steel relies on an oxide to remain stainless, so can corrode in an absence of oxygen.
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Feb 23, 2019 20:18
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