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It’s absolutely possible, though it can take awhile to get the last bits out of the imperfections in the brick. You should also have the previous owners put on a list for using gloss black on brick. I can only imagine how bad that looks.
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May 4, 2019 20:16
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FogHelmut posted:The previous owners painted the brick around my fireplace with black gloss latex paint. How much of a pain in the rear end would it be to strip the paint from the brick? Burn it down and build a new house.
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May 4, 2019 20:54
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Yeah, put some superglue on the screw and reattach the faceplate, it will do what you need it to. Imagining somebody doing this with one of the many oversized, gaudy plates I replaced in my house is making my teeth clench
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May 4, 2019 21:02
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This little plastic peg snapped on an insert panel for one of my motorcycle fairings. It had been epoxied before I got the bike, and it held on for years, but it failed. I re-epoxied it, and it failed again after just a few rides. It sits in a small rubber grommet, and is subject to a decent amount of vibration. I'm planning to thoroughly clean it and re-re-epoxy it, likely with some kind of thin metal shim along the backside of it. But I was wondering if anyone here had a better idea.  Edit: Never mind. I realized this part is made from ABS, so I cleaned off all the old epoxy and I'm acetone welding the nub back on. armorer fucked around with this message at 22:10 on May 4, 2019 |
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May 4, 2019 21:05
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Have any of y'all done a resurface job on a driveway? Our driveway and front walk/stairs needs it bad
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May 5, 2019 00:35
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Maybe I can paint it brick colored. We are going to try flat white and see how it looks. Another question - seal marble tile before installing? Or seal after installing but before grouting? I know the grout can stain it, but I think it would be easier to seal after installing it, especially if I'm making cuts, then grout it after.
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May 5, 2019 05:08
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You will have to reseal your marble eventually so I would not worry about sealing before it is installed unless you are worried about the grout changing the color. Get a broken piece of unsealed marble and see if the grout changes the color. If so, you could install the tile first, then seal the tile, grout, wait a few days, then seal the grout. The more expensive sealers will have a less darkening effect in general on natural stone like marble. I usually see 511 Impregnator being used, which is like $120 a gallon. For higher end and lighter natural stone, 511 makes "Porus Plus" which is $200 a gallon.
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May 5, 2019 11:04
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The Gardenator posted:You will have to reseal your marble eventually so I would not worry about sealing before it is installed unless you are worried about the grout changing the color. Get a broken piece of unsealed marble and see if the grout changes the color. If so, you could install the tile first, then seal the tile, grout, wait a few days, then seal the grout. Yeah but that stuff covers for miles. I bought a pint of 511 Impregnator last year and did three coats on a concrete countertop I made and I still have more than half left. The bottle says it covers up to 500 sq ft. The marble is going on the wall around the fireplace and below the mantel. And it's a gas fireplace and I never use it because I live in SoCal, and also it's old style - I think they just buried the gas starter under some sand and put fake logs over it - and doesn't make any heat anyway. So there's really no reason for the marble to ever get stained outside of the initial grout install.
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May 5, 2019 15:26
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FogHelmut posted:Yeah but that stuff covers for miles. I bought a pint of 511 Impregnator last year and did three coats on a concrete countertop I made and I still have more than half left. The bottle says it covers up to 500 sq ft. Ah, that makes sense. I was coaching my response in case you had never done it before. I've heard of people who have sealed both sides of loose tile, for example and made it hard for the thinset to adhere to the tile.
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May 6, 2019 03:14
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actionjackson posted:Okay. The video I saw more involved and used a copper grounding wire and wire strippers. Oh for gently caress's sake. It's an outlet. If you can flip off a breaker and turn a screwdriver, you can do this. You'll probably need to replace the outlet anyway as the little screw hole probably cracked plastic face of the outlet. All you need to do is turn off the circuit, take the outlet out of its box, then transfer its wires to your new outlet. Except if it's a backstab. Those you will want to replace throughout your entire house if you find any. They like to start fires.
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May 6, 2019 03:28
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This damned lawnmower will not beat me. I've posted about it before, it loses power and dies constantly. Suggestion was to rebuild the carb or install a fuel filter. So far I've changed the oil and plug and cleaned the air filter, as well as copious use of carb cleaner. I use carb cleaner to start it every time now in fact. I've observed debris in the fuel tank. This seems to be due to the design of the fuel cap which has three pinholes in it, most likely to facilitate airflow. The mower kicks up small clippings constantly toward the engine due to a small gap in the clipping cover. Stands to reason that this debris is causing my problems. When the mower stalls I can prime it to force more fuel into the carb, but doing so takes several minutes as the rubber prime button takes forever between presses to regain its shape. Not sure why, either vaccuum or just old. I also haven't tried servicing the muffler so I will replace that as a matter of course. Next, my plan is to disconnect the fuel hose from the engine and drain and flush the fuel tank. I was thinking about filtering the fuel through a coffee filter into a glass. Finally, I'll upgrade the fuel cap by gluing a screen onto it, and see about blocking the gap the clippings fly through. Failing all that, I'll rebuild the damned carb. Thoughts?
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May 6, 2019 07:19
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Extensive Vamping posted:This damned lawnmower will not beat me. I've posted about it before, it loses power and dies constantly. Suggestion was to rebuild the carb or install a fuel filter. So far I've changed the oil and plug and cleaned the air filter, as well as copious use of carb cleaner. I use carb cleaner to start it every time now in fact. Based on the stated observations I'd guess that your fuel line is plugged with debris from the tank. Your entire fuel delivery system from carb to tank should be removed, inspected to determine exactly what the debris consist of and how they are entering the system, then cleaned and rebuilt. Pinholes like you describe should not be allowing debris to enter, they're just too small. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 16:16 on May 6, 2019 |
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May 6, 2019 16:13
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Not really a 'fix' request but does anyone have any magical tricks for removing wallpaper? I'm dealing with 2 layers on top of each other. I've done scoring and spraying with wallpaper juice, 409 (which worked okay) and I've also purchased a wallpaper steamer which also works fine but this is just a slow miserable process. Is this simply my fate, or is there a better way?
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May 6, 2019 18:13
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Not really a 'fix' request but does anyone have any magical tricks for removing wallpaper? I'm dealing with 2 layers on top of each other. I've done scoring and spraying with wallpaper juice, 409 (which worked okay) and I've also purchased a wallpaper steamer which also works fine but this is just a slow miserable process. How are you at hanging drywall?
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May 6, 2019 18:22
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H110Hawk posted:How are you at hanging drywall? A. Okay-ish B. The walls are horsehair plaster
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May 6, 2019 18:32
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:B. The walls are horsehair plaster Hope you like scraping wallpaper.
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May 6, 2019 18:38
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Not really a 'fix' request but does anyone have any magical tricks for removing wallpaper? I'm dealing with 2 layers on top of each other. I've done scoring and spraying with wallpaper juice, 409 (which worked okay) and I've also purchased a wallpaper steamer which also works fine but this is just a slow miserable process. It's your fate. If you've scored it a bunch, you could try some TSP or wallpaper remover. Still, be prepared to fall back on your steamer.
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May 6, 2019 18:44
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I made the mistake of trying to remove what I thought was just a wallpaper border around the wall of a room, only to discover it had been placed over 3 layers of wallpaper that were painted over; if I had known I would have just left it, but once you get started you can't really back out. Unfortunately slow and miserable is pretty much integral no matter what you do, just make sure you have a good scraper and new blades for it. I started with a putty knife because I thought it was a small job. 
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May 6, 2019 18:52
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As I've said many time before: 1/8" sheetrock if the walls are flat. 1/2" if they aren't (and shim it flat).
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May 6, 2019 18:59
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FogHelmut posted:The previous owners painted the brick around my fireplace with black gloss latex paint. How much of a pain in the rear end would it be to strip the paint from the brick? Extensive Vamping posted:This damned lawnmower will not beat me. I've posted about it before, it loses power and dies constantly. Suggestion was to rebuild the carb or install a fuel filter. So far I've changed the oil and plug and cleaned the air filter, as well as copious use of carb cleaner. I use carb cleaner to start it every time now in fact.
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May 6, 2019 22:21
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Extensive Vamping posted:This damned lawnmower... I'll tell you what I said last time: I had the exact same issue with a brush hog - fine grass bits getting into the fuel tank and eventually clogging the carb. I cleaner the carb repeatedly but it happened again after not too long. After splicing in a fuel filter, never had any problems again.
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May 6, 2019 22:52
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:A. Okay-ish Do you own a crowbar? Can you rent a lowboy?
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May 6, 2019 22:52
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armorer posted:I'll tell you what I said last time: I had the exact same issue with a brush hog - fine grass bits getting into the fuel tank and eventually clogging the carb. I cleaner the carb repeatedly but it happened again after not too long. After splicing in a fuel filter, never had any problems again. Holy poo poo that's genius.
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May 7, 2019 00:00
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armorer posted:I'll tell you what I said last time: I had the exact same issue with a brush hog - fine grass bits getting into the fuel tank and eventually clogging the carb. I cleaner the carb repeatedly but it happened again after not too long. After splicing in a fuel filter, never had any problems again. After giving the matter some serious thought, I decided to introduce the mower to the curb and just replace the drat thing. Buying a Craftsman M110 asap. Thanks though.
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May 7, 2019 01:07
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Extensive Vamping posted:This damned lawnmower will not beat me. My neighbor's Honda-powered mower was behaving exactly this way. Some insane squirrel had gnawed a hole in the gas cap, so he stretched plastic over the filler neck and held it in place with the remains of the cap. It would run for 2-3 minutes tops, then die. He was ready to toss it & buy a new one. As it turns out, the cap has to be vented, or it'll create a vacuum & fuel starvation will ensue. That may explain why your primer button stays in. Having run similar mowers in all kinds of conditions, including incredibly dusty ones, I doubt a bit (or even a lot) of debris raised by grasscutting is causing this. Get it going on a flat, level surface with no cap on, & let it sit & see if it dies. If it doesn't, then you'll know you need a new fuel filler cap. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:44 on May 7, 2019 |
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May 7, 2019 02:42
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As an alternative to actually having to disassemble, clean, reassemble the carb, China carbs for most models are usually available online for like $10-$20.
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May 7, 2019 02:55
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PainterofCrap posted:My neighbor's Honda-powered mower was behaving exactly this way. Some insane squirrel had gnawed a hole in the gas cap, so he stretched plastic over the filler neck and held it in place with the remains of the cap. It would run for 2-3 minutes tops, then die. He was ready to toss it & buy a new one. Oh this is excellent I'll try that tomorrow morning, thanks! Edit: you seriously just made my night, I'm convinced this is it now. Hopefully I can get away with just cleaning it. erosion fucked around with this message at 03:50 on May 7, 2019 |
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May 7, 2019 03:37
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Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced stud finder worth a poo poo? Say, $60 or less?
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May 7, 2019 12:32
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Hayden posted:Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced stud finder worth a poo poo? Say, $60 or less? https://www.homedepot.com/p/C-H-Hanson-Magnetic-Stud-Finder-03040/202563186
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May 7, 2019 13:39
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I have that exact model and will never go back to electronic ones.
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May 7, 2019 13:49
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I have one of these and they are good. I would suggest tying a string to it so you can drag it along the wall and let it 'catch' the studs. This works well in thick walls where you need that extra sensitivity to actually find the nails.
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May 7, 2019 13:49
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I use an old VCR magnet wrapped in a soft rag with a ziptie keeping the rag on.
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May 7, 2019 13:50
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So for wooden studs run it along the baseboard looking for the toenails holding the studs to the shoe plate?
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May 7, 2019 14:19
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Hayden posted:So for wooden studs run it along the baseboard looking for the toenails holding the studs to the shoe plate? You’re really looking for drywall screws and nails. Float it around the wall with a loose grip in a figure-8. When it grabs on a nail, mark it and slide straight down, try to find another nail in-line. Couple nails in a straight line is a strong indication of a stud. Probe with a non-contact voltage detector for safety before you dive in.
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May 7, 2019 14:29
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The magnet ones basically refuse to work on my walls, I assume because this house has plaster and lathe walls. I have tried a couple storebought ones and a collection of homemade versions with neodynium magnets and it's just tedious and either finds nothing at all, or finds ever nail in the lathe. I ended up getting one of these that combines stud finding with wire detection and metal detection which can spot pipes. I've still hosed up a couple times but it has been way better and more consistent at finding things.
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May 7, 2019 14:37
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Has anyone run into base coving glue melting/running? I have some coving coming off both my bathroom walls, and glue seems to be running under the bottom of the coving. I end up with a lovely looking mess as dust sticks to it. I plan on redoing the floor in one of the bathrooms and don't know if the PO used the wrong glue or what, but don't want a repeat. In both bathrooms, the heat register is right along the wall where they're coming off, not sure if that's related and if so what the fix is.
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May 7, 2019 14:47
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Hayden posted:Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced stud finder worth a poo poo? Say, $60 or less? I'm happy with my Bosch GMS120. Works on plaster, has a metal mode, etc.
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May 7, 2019 15:52
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I have a kitchen faucet that appears to have a leak. This is a pull down style faucet and it appears to be leaking around where the head attaches to the hose. It seems to be where the head is crimped onto the hose. Posting from work, but I can get more details later. I don't see how the head attaches to the hose other than what appears to be a crimped collar. I don't see anything that I can tighten or screw/unscrew. Might I have to replace the whole head/hose assembly as one piece or is there some way to fix what I have?
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May 7, 2019 16:40
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Without photos it's hard to say, but IMO it's likely you'd have to replace the entire faucet assembly. Fortunately that's not a super-difficult job if you're moderately handy.
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May 7, 2019 16:42
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CzarChasm posted:I have a kitchen faucet that appears to have a leak. This is a pull down style faucet and it appears to be leaking around where the head attaches to the hose. It seems to be where the head is crimped onto the hose. Posting from work, but I can get more details later. I don't see how the head attaches to the hose other than what appears to be a crimped collar. I don't see anything that I can tighten or screw/unscrew. Might I have to replace the whole head/hose assembly as one piece or is there some way to fix what I have? The hose will screw onto the faucet base under the sink. Assuming you've tried tightening the connection between the hose and the faucet head, I would consider replacing the hose. Home Depot may have a replacement. I would take the hose off completely and take it with you to the store. You say it's where the head is crimped to the hose, but I've never seen one that is attached like that. Generally there is a connector crimped to the hose and that screws into the head. Have you tried unscrewing it? What brand is it?
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May 7, 2019 16:48
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