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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't see a floor in the photo you posted; just bare joists. You should be able to remove the joists that are currently there (one by one, since they're also tying the load-bearing walls to each other) and replace them with larger members. Note that they're also tied to the rafters (or at least they had better be) with a poo poo-ton of fasteners. Again the required number and type of fasteners for each joist-rafter connection should be in the building code. There's a second floor above the joists. You would have to lift that entire floor. yippee cahier posted:I’m not an engineer but the guy will be able to look up and tell you immediately what needs to be done with everything gutted like that. It should be cheap. I'm 99% sure there won't be any permits or inspections involved in this and he will refuse to do anything that would force them. I literally cannot talk him out of this and pretty much just have to say "this is the least stupid of the options you're willing to consider." KillHour fucked around with this message at 18:12 on May 20, 2019 |
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May 20, 2019 18:10
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KillHour posted:My friend bought a house about a year ago, and in an effort to one-up Grover, has gutted the entire thing. Just by the pictures, the wood looks awfully thick for a modern 2x6. Does it happen to be older true dimensional lumber? Is it pine or hardwood?
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May 20, 2019 18:13
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angryrobots posted:Just by the pictures, the wood looks awfully thick for a modern 2x6. Does it happen to be older true dimensional lumber? Is it pine or hardwood? House is like a hundred years old. It's not dimensional, but it's old-growth stuff and heavy AF.
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May 20, 2019 18:16
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KillHour posted:There's a second floor above the joists. You would have to lift that entire floor. Oh, so there is. I was looking on the left-hand side of the second photo and thus completely missed the floor elsewhere. Yeah, that makes it harder. The code might have provisions for 4x material used as joists; it's been awhile since I looked at the relevant tables. Failing that though, you're well out of "here's what the building code says to do" territory, which means you need an engineer to review your plans and certify that the building won't fall down. Which, from the way you describe the person in charge of this, isn't going to happen. Relatedly, he's already doing work that would, legally, force permits. If you mean "he's going to try to fly under the radar", well, there's a simple solution there: report to the city that unpermitted work is taking place. It might kill your friendship but it won't kill your friend.
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May 20, 2019 18:20
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The building has been like this for 100 years and hasn't fallen down. I'm okay with saying "hey, here's how you do your best to shore this up and make it as safe as reasonably possible" but I'm not about to bankrupt him over something he couldn't possibly have known when he bought it.
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May 20, 2019 18:22
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KillHour posted:I'm 99% sure there won't be any permits or inspections involved in this and he will refuse to do anything that would force them. Hard to adequately stress how bad of an idea this is if he’s making significant structural changes (which it sounds like he is). Especially if he has no idea what he’s doing. So there’s a second floor at the moment? But he’s adding a dormer and more square footage or something?
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May 20, 2019 18:22
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stupid puma posted:Hard to adequately stress how bad of an idea this is if he’s making significant structural changes (which it sounds like he is). Especially if he has no idea what he’s doing. He's not adding anything upstairs except remodeling (new drywall, some closets, etc.) He just wants to make sure the house stands for another 100 years. From what he just messaged me, it sounds like his current plan is to add steel beams in parallel to the existing joists. Edit: According to the ICC2015, it looks like 2x6's can go ~10' with 18" spacing in sleeping areas. https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2015/chapter-5-floors KillHour fucked around with this message at 18:39 on May 20, 2019 |
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May 20, 2019 18:25
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Talk to your local building code authority.
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May 20, 2019 18:42
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kid sinister posted:Talk to your local building code authority. Please do this. I know you don't want to do anything to financially hurt your friend, but applying for a residential permit is in most places a few hundred bucks if that. In addition, your local code inspector might be able to tell your friend exactly what has to be done to get the structure approved, saving time and money in the long run.
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May 20, 2019 19:16
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KillHour posted:I literally cannot talk him out of this and pretty much just have to say "this is the least stupid of the options you're willing to consider." If he’s not willing to take the correct-and-good advice of “get a real engineer” or “file permits”, then fine, that’s on him. But if it was me, well, I’m sure as heck not going to knowingly provide questionable advice. MagusofStars fucked around with this message at 19:42 on May 20, 2019 |
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May 20, 2019 19:39
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Yeah I’ve actually found the inspectors around here to be really helpful, to the point where they’ve said as long as I pay the $30 site visit fee or whatever every time they’ll come out as many times as I need to evaluate my work and provide advice on how to meet code. I think they are kind of excited to help people who are at least half way competent and trying to learn The Right Way.
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May 20, 2019 19:40
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SpartanIvy posted:First I'll pull the choke out to allow maximum air in. Chokes actually restrict the flow of air, thereby increasing the amount of fuel in the air-fuel ratio going into the engine.
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May 20, 2019 21:13
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Maybe I got the terms mixed up but when I pull the plunger out it opens the ~1/2" orifice and allows all the air in, where as when I push the plunger in, a plate slides over the opening, closing off the air flow.
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May 20, 2019 21:19
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I’m planning on finishing the walls of our attached garage. It partially shares two sides with the house, and the shared bits already have insulation + drywall on them. I’m going to do the rest. This is in Minnesota. I have a couple questions: 1. I’m not planning on doing the ceiling mostly because loving hell, really, I don’t have the lift-thing tool for that. Do I need to? Like what’s the point of insulating the outside walls if the ceiling is gonna be basically wood+shingles only. Most heat loss is going to be through that anyways. 2. Related to the above, I’m not looking at it right now, but I highly doubt our garage is completely airtight. Is it normal for a garage to have soffits? 3. Related again, any elevated concerns about ice dams due to increased garage ambient temperature? 4. Should I put up a vapor barrier on the garage side? Googling says to put it on the warm-in-the-winter side, but since this area will be completely vented often (garage door), I don’t worry too much about moisture / humidity buildup.
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May 21, 2019 14:36
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KillHour posted:The building has been like this for 100 years and hasn't fallen down. I'm okay with saying "hey, here's how you do your best to shore this up and make it as safe as reasonably possible" but I'm not about to bankrupt him over something he couldn't possibly have known when he bought it. Your dipshit friend is going to compromise the structure and then cover it up with drywall. loving miss me with that “he can afford to fix it up but not to pay for an engineering design plan” poo poo.
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May 21, 2019 15:12
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Fallom posted:Your dipshit friend is going to compromise the structure and then cover it up with drywall. loving miss me with that “he can afford to fix it up but not to pay for an engineering design plan” poo poo. I didn't say he couldn't afford to do it; I said he won't do it. The only person he trusts is himself. This isn't a "my friend but the friend is actually me" situation. He's gonna do what he wants. KillHour fucked around with this message at 15:25 on May 21, 2019 |
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May 21, 2019 15:22
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Then you ned to back away and not involve yourself in the project. e: And as you do so, tell him why you're backing away and not involving yourself in the project.
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May 21, 2019 15:30
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Yea, what you are doing is like helping your friend pick out a caliber because he's determined to shoot himself in the foot. What you should do is say 'No, this is stupid and it's dangerous, I am not going to help you with it unless you do it properly'. if that means he's going to do the dumbest possible thing without your help, that's better than helping him bandaid/hide this so it kills some poor unsuspecting person in ten years when his idiot fix comes loose.
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May 21, 2019 22:12
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Ashcans posted:Yea, what you are doing is like helping your friend pick out a caliber because he's determined to shoot himself in the foot. What you should do is say 'No, this is stupid and it's dangerous, I am not going to help you with it unless you do it properly'. if that means he's going to do the dumbest possible thing without your help, that's better than helping him bandaid/hide this so it kills some poor unsuspecting person in ten years when his idiot fix comes loose. Which could well be you if you're ever in the house.
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May 21, 2019 22:41
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DNK posted:I have a couple questions: Having just rented exactly that tool and installed drywall ceilings, it really could not be any easier. And it's cheap, like $40 for the day. And it breaks down so it fits into a car just fine. So for this one, don't let that be a consideration for you.
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May 21, 2019 23:18
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Having just rented exactly that tool and installed drywall ceilings, it really could not be any easier. And it's cheap, like $40 for the day. And it breaks down so it fits into a car just fine. So for this one, don't let that be a consideration for you. If its going to take more than a day, I bought this: https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...61930097&ipos=2 and had no trouble selling it for $100 on Craigslist. It was gone in a day.
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May 21, 2019 23:46
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Sort of relevant, I think there's a book that's thrown around for recommendation on the basics of framing. Can someone tell me what that is again? I'd like to broaden my knowledge a bit
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May 22, 2019 13:29
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couldcareless posted:Sort of relevant, I think there's a book that's thrown around for recommendation on the basics of framing. Can someone tell me what that is again? I'd like to broaden my knowledge a bit The one I've recommended in the past is A Graphic Guide to Frame Construction.
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May 22, 2019 16:16
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Why does my AC keep freezing? The unit is in the ceiling above my kitchen. Ice builds up in it and eventually water soaks through the ceiling and floods my kitchen. Both my floor and ceiling are noticeably damaged from this happening several times starting a few weeks ago (it happens overnight so I never find out until morning). I have reported this to the leasing office each time, and the maintenance man comes over, looks at it and says "Turn it off to let the ice melt." No poo poo, but when I turn it back on the same thing just keeps happening and it NEEDS to run for a long time after I turn it back on because you know, it's Texas and it's 90 loving degrees in here after the AC has been off all day. I tend to think there must be something seriously wrong with it because if the solution was so simple as "add freon" or "flush lines" you'd think they would've just... done that? I don't have access to the outside part of the AC but he said there's ice in that thing, too.
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May 22, 2019 22:22
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shits.ridic posted:Why does my AC keep freezing? The unit is in the ceiling above my kitchen. Ice builds up in it and eventually water soaks through the ceiling and floods my kitchen. Both my floor and ceiling are noticeably damaged from this happening several times starting a few weeks ago (it happens overnight so I never find out until morning). I have reported this to the leasing office each time, and the maintenance man comes over, looks at it and says "Turn it off to let the ice melt." Is there good airflow at the vents? When this happened to me it was a piece of filter material had been sucked into the system prior to us moving in and had eventually caked up enough crud that it blocked the airflow. No heat exchange led to the unit icing over, and eventually the start/run cap frying out as well.
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May 22, 2019 22:32
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Also, adding freon and/or flushing lines may require a service call from a professional that the landlords would have to pay for. They have a vested interest in letting the maintenance guy that's already on payroll "solve" the problem.
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May 22, 2019 22:39
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Freon isn't the problem since it's freezing up. It's almost certainly a vent blockage. Either intake or output. Check them all for airflow while it's running.
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May 22, 2019 22:50
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H110Hawk posted:Is there good airflow at the vents? When this happened to me it was a piece of filter material had been sucked into the system prior to us moving in and had eventually caked up enough crud that it blocked the airflow. No heat exchange led to the unit icing over, and eventually the start/run cap frying out as well. Air flow is very strong in the kitchen vent; the others feel rather weak actually (total 5 = ktchn/bed1/bath1/bed2/bath2). I'm not sure if the discrepancy is just because the kitchen vent is right next to the unit or if something is wrong. I haven't made a habit of checking the flow of my vents but I have done it before, and it does feel a lot weaker now and also feels stronger in the kitchen than it used to. If filter material got sucked in, would that be easily spotted?
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May 22, 2019 23:09
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Would a 5 gallon bucket full of quikrete and a tall 4x4 post be sufficient to use with a sun shade like this below? Not gonna kill anybody tipping over or anything? Would something be cheaper/better/safer? https://www.amazon.com/PATIO-Paradise-Turquoise-Equilateral-Triangle/dp/B06XCQ4VSR
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May 22, 2019 23:19
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Would a 5 gallon bucket full of quikrete and a tall 4x4 post be sufficient to use with a sun shade like this below? Not gonna kill anybody tipping over or anything? Would something be cheaper/better/safer? No, I have 12 foot ones sunk into studs and concrete filled block fences. Sometimes they break on a windy day when they get old and I can literally barely hold the broken end temporarily while I take the other two ends down
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May 22, 2019 23:25
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SpartanIvy posted:Freon isn't the problem since it's freezing up. It's almost certainly a vent blockage. Either intake or output. Check them all for airflow while it's running. Poor airflow may be an issue, but low refrigerant level can absolutely cause the evaporator to freeze up.
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May 22, 2019 23:28
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Droo posted:No, I have 12 foot ones sunk into studs and concrete filled block fences. Sometimes they break on a windy day when they get old and I can literally barely hold the broken end temporarily while I take the other two ends down How old? This isn't going to be a permanent fixture. Maybe a few summers worth and I would only have the shade up when in use. I'm not trying to setup a beer garden or anything.
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May 22, 2019 23:51
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:How old? This isn't going to be a permanent fixture. Maybe a few summers worth and I would only have the shade up when in use. I'm not trying to setup a beer garden or anything. I live in the desert and buy more expensive 280 gram ones (the one you linked is 180 gram), and they last about 3-5 years until some part of them fails enough to finally rip apart on a high wind day. It's usually pretty easy to notice that it's coming though since the tear takes awhile to develop fully. It's mainly due to the sun eating them here though, not sure how long they last elsewhere. If you plan to install that thing outside using 3 buckets filled with concrete, I would expect it to blow away entirely on the first 30mph+ wind day. The installation instructions recommend tightening shade sails to about 100 pounds of tension, it really needs to be anchored into the ground or the structure of your house at all corners. If you never use it on a windy day and you always take it down right away it might be fine, but I would still be worried about a sudden gust of wind tipping a 4x4 over onto a kid's head or something Edit: here is the page with details on the site I order mine from. https://shadesails.com/information/helpful-hints quote:3) The attachment points should be installed first. Therefore, install your posts with eye-nuts, and to the house, tree or whatever you have chosen to support them, add eye bolts, pad-eyes or straps. Remember, there can be substantial wind loads. (From 5.5 to 15 lb. Per square foot of sail). These loads are divided between the corners, but it is important that what they attach to be adequate. For the posts, we usually use 4″ schedule 40 steel pipe (galvanized) or temporary power poles (treated) that are 6″ or larger. Droo fucked around with this message at 00:06 on May 23, 2019 |
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May 23, 2019 00:02
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Well I got my tiller engine running again. Thanks everyone! I bought a can of carb/choke cleaner and disassembled and cleaned the original carburetor as best as I knew how, swapped out the fuel bulb with a new one while I was at it, and put it all back together. The drat thing wouldn't even start after that, and out of sheer frustration I started yanking on the starter cord as hard as I could. Well my pure rage was enough to jump start it and after letting it idle for a few minutes it seems to be good to go now. Hopefully whatever went wrong doesn't happen again for a long while.
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May 25, 2019 02:15
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I'm looking at re-painting my wood deck as the existing paint is in bad shape, and I had some questions. First off, my plan is to sand and scrape off the old paint and replace the one or two cracked boards. After that clean the surfaces, wait for them to dry, then apply paint and finally seal. Did I miss any important steps in that description? Second, Is paint a good option? I want to just have a solid color and I don't care about having the wood grain show through. I seem to recall products that were essentially super thick acrylic paint that you put on decks and it filled in small gaps and gouges and the like, but I can't remember seeing them recently. Are those any good? If I do go with paint, is general, multi-surface outdoor paint going to work or do I need something special? When it comes to sealing it against weather (rain, snow and sun), what kind of product should I use, assuming I go with paint? Somewhat related to all of this, I also have some exposed concrete that I'd like to paint to better match my new siding. Should I get specific concrete paint or would general outdoor paint work?
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May 25, 2019 18:09
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CzarChasm posted:I'm looking at re-painting my wood deck as the existing paint is in bad shape, and I had some questions. You are going to want an outdoor floor paint or stain, Deck paint or stain specifically. Regular outdoor paint is typically used for vertical surfaces and my not hold up well on your deck. A stain will only work if you remove all the old paint.
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May 25, 2019 18:15
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Motherfuckerrrrr my tiller is broken again (still). Turns out it's not the carburetor at all but the transmission. When it heats up it locks up and that's what's bogging the engine down. It locks up the drive shaft so it's just grinding away on the clutch, which is probably turbo hosed now. While loving with it the starter cord also broke, but I already replaced that with a nylon rope. I will get this thing working 
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May 25, 2019 23:51
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The Gardenator posted:You are going to want an outdoor floor paint or stain, Deck paint or stain specifically. Regular outdoor paint is typically used for vertical surfaces and my not hold up well on your deck. A stain will only work if you remove all the old paint. Are the combo stains + sealers any good?
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May 26, 2019 03:04
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Our garage door opener suddenly started this thing about 4 months ago where it will go up and then will refuse to go down. When you press the button on the wall or the remote, it sounds like a relay clicking twice and the lights will turn on like any other time you press the button. To get it to go back down, out of trial and error I found that if I unhook the door, manually close it, and unplug the unit for 5 minutes or so, it magically works. Sometimes 2 months sometimes 3 days. It never refuses to open, though. It's an Overhead Door Phantom 777CD. From the little research I've done, it sounds like the most popular opinion is to replace the control board. I've also seen mention of a starting capacitor. I'm just not sure how to figure out which it is. I have taken the board out, cleaned with compressed air and checked for loose solder connections and checked for burnt areas and it at least looks OK. Anyone familiar with garage door openers that could help with a diagnosis?
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May 26, 2019 20:38
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Did you try cleaning and aligning the sensors? They can be finiky and it might be something like direct sunlight messing with them. If they are not satisfied, it will not close.
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May 26, 2019 21:01
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