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Leal posted:My electronics acted up a few days ago and it turned out the lovely roads in town rattled my car enough to loosen one of my terminals, maybe try double checking them and tightening them up. Yeah I'll second this. Any load in the lighter socket large enough to cause issues should instantly blow a fuse. I guess it's theoretically possible it was just creating insane amounts of noise but given the lack of issues I've had with insanely cheap lovely chargers over the years, it seems unlikely.
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Aug 21, 2019 15:00
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Lester Shy posted:Speaking of electronics, are the ~$15 cigarette lighter splitters you can find on Amazon generally safe? I got a dashcam that draws power from the cigarette lighter and I forgot that would mean I have nowhere to plug in my phone. I just need something simple, not the crazy ones with 3 cigarette ports and LEDs or whatever, but they all look pretty janky and I know nothing about electronics. As others said, get a double charger instead. If you don't care about Quick Charging (Android only), this is a good option. If you do want Quick Charge (most Android devices with a Qualcomm chipset support Quick Charge of some type, assuming micro USB), this is a safe option. If your phone has USB-C, this is what I have.
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Aug 21, 2019 15:43
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MrOnBicycle posted:So reading on different forums there are always people that claim that for example buying Brembo brake discs+pads is never going to be as good as OEM even if Brembo supply the discs / pads as they use the best stuff for OEM and the Brembo named stuff is a step down in quality and sold to the aftermarket. Is there any truth to this? Just use a good brand like TRW or Bosch and you're fine. I did pads, rotors and calipers the other day and used Bosch pads and rotors, and TRW calipers.  The shocks I did earlier this year and are TRW as well.
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Aug 21, 2019 16:41
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MrOnBicycle posted:So reading on different forums there are always people that claim that for example buying Brembo brake discs+pads is never going to be as good as OEM even if Brembo supply the discs / pads as they use the best stuff for OEM and the Brembo named stuff is a step down in quality and sold to the aftermarket. Is there any truth to this? Nobody except a Brembo engineer is going to be able to answer this. But as an engineer at an OEM supplier, the answer is "yes and no". In some cases, OEMs make weird requests and have unique parts. Then it doesn't always make sense to launch this esoteric part in the aftermarket. But sometimes OEMs are just using what's "normal" in which case the aftermarket part would be the same. Like, nobody is saying "Righto, give the good stuff to the OEM and we'll sell all these bad parts to the suckers at Napa". And there's obviously incentive for us to put good product into the aftermarket, right? But we're not going to offer more costly parts in the aftermarket without trying to get something for it (hey, we put the money into it, we want to recoup our costs). Also note that the price you see in stores has gone through at least a couple middle-men and everybody wants a slice of the progressively-larger pie.
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Aug 21, 2019 20:04
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Used to live in an apartment and didn't have a good place to change my oil, so I always had it changed. I brought my own oil so I could use full synthetic, it has a 4.7 quart oil capacity, the mechanic was always adamant that it took a little more than 5 quarts to get it full. I was a little dubious of this but it always dipped in the safe zone so whatever. I changed my oil and put a 5 quart bottle in, then dumped the old stuff back in the bottle. Was not >5 quarts at all, probably 4.7 right on the mark (not sure what the mechanic was smoking). But now I have the full 5 quarts in the engine and it's slightly overfull on the dipstick... gonna be OK or should I dump it back out and put a little less in? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 21:43
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Paul MaudDib posted:Used to live in an apartment and didn't have a good place to change my oil, so I always had it changed. I brought my own oil so I could use full synthetic, it has a 4.7L oil capacity, the mechanic was always adamant that it took a little more than 5 quarts to get it full. I was a little dubious of this but it always dipped in the safe zone so whatever. How slightly over full? Did you run the car yet? If you changed the filter, and haven't run the car yet, the filter will fill, and the dipstick will go down a bit. If its only a tiny bit over the full mark, I wouldn't worry too much.
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Aug 21, 2019 21:47
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The vehicle I recently bought had a strap wrench in the back so I might try changing my oil and filter myself for once
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Aug 21, 2019 21:55
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wesleywillis posted:How slightly over full? Did you run the car yet? If you changed the filter, and haven't run the car yet, the filter will fill, and the dipstick will go down a bit. Yeah, I ran it and it's still overfull. It's up a fair bit - but obviously the engine kinda goosenecks a bit so a little bit extra raises the level a lot. 
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Aug 21, 2019 22:00
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spankmeister posted:Just use a good brand like TRW or Bosch and you're fine. I did pads, rotors and calipers the other day and used Bosch pads and rotors, and TRW calipers. totalnewbie posted:Nobody except a Brembo engineer is going to be able to answer this. Thanks, that's kinda what I reasoned. It would make no sense to supply the aftermarket with "crap" and supplying OE with the good stuff where your brand isn't even shown. Just wanted some reassurance from a forum I trust. I'm thinking a known brand ceramics will do just fine. Less dust, less squeal and better durability sounds nice. Whatever I get I'll beat the price the garage wants. I went with full Brembos for my Alfa Romeo MiTo and after they got bedded in my face feels like it's going to pull off if I even push the brake to what feels like 75%. Can't ask for more than that in daily driving really.
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Aug 21, 2019 22:28
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Paul MaudDib posted:Yeah, I ran it and it's still overfull. The only danger from overfilling is that the crankshaft starts hitting the oil, beating it into a foam that won't pump. A little extra won't hurt anything. An old trick of dirt track racers was to add an extra quart of oil so the engine wouldn't starve in hard corners. There's a fair amount of extra volume down there. Edit: I completely missed the marks on the dipstick. If it's really that high, you added a whole lot more than 5 quarts. 5 quarts would be just above the max fill line. Running the engine can splash oil up on the dipstick. Let it rest for a few minutes, then wipe it off and check again. If it still reads that high, open the drain plug and let some out. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 22:43
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Paul MaudDib posted:Yeah, I ran it and it's still overfull. I’m confused, it looks dry between the green marks and the red. Is that correct? If it’s all the way up to the red then you should drain some.
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Aug 21, 2019 22:49
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Deteriorata posted:The only danger from overfilling is that the crankshaft starts hitting the oil, beating it into a foam that won't pump. A little extra won't hurt anything. Crank case ventilation will spit out more oil too, fouling up the intake.
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Aug 21, 2019 22:58
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MrOnBicycle posted:So reading on different forums there are always people that claim that for example buying Brembo brake discs+pads is never going to be as good as OEM even if Brembo supply the discs / pads as they use the best stuff for OEM and the Brembo named stuff is a step down in quality and sold to the aftermarket. Is there any truth to this? Automakers are nothing if not notorious penny pinches. Save a quarter of a cent and multiply that by a half million models over the design life of the vehicle and you arrive at real savings. Unless the vehicle in question has Brembo calipers which were counted as an upgrade package and the OEM pads are high end street/mild track units I highly doubt OEM pads are going to be better than performance branded aftermarket pads. OEM will likely be the cheapest units they could find that would on average outlive the factory warranty while returning passable braking performance. In short, "the best part" and "OEM" rarely go together.
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Aug 21, 2019 23:42
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simplefish posted:My engine (diesel light van) has trouble cranking. Normally it's only the first start of the day that's tough. Even if I let it sit hours in the daytime it starts ok in the evening. Except in the really cold up the mountains, I had to jump it off my leisure battery the last two afternoons. Actuay, I've been thinking about this a little more - how do I check if there's something draining my engine battery? Because if that's happening I won't solve it with a new battery A previous owner had wired the radio to the leisure battery along with a household speaker box strapped in the passenger footwell. Their wiring didn't look like they'd done it often. Also the 12v cigarette socket always has power even if the keys are out and the leisure battery is disconnected The leisure battery is just a car battery ratchet strapped behind the driver seat with some kind of solar charge controller and solar panel across it. It connects to the engine battery via jump leads to charge while driving - I always disconnect it immediately once parked. A household lightswitch isolates the interior lights and inverters - and also the radio - from the leisure battery
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Aug 22, 2019 03:13
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Geoj posted:Automakers are nothing if not notorious penny pinches. Save a quarter of a cent and multiply that by a half million models over the design life of the vehicle and you arrive at real savings. Thanks, makes perfect sense. I'll go with some premium brand ceramics and be happy. Funny how I didn't spent this much time on choosing for my own car (probably because Brembo is OEM there), but I want the best for my dads car lol.
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Aug 22, 2019 08:52
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simplefish posted:Also the 12v cigarette socket always has power even if the keys are out and the leisure battery is disconnected A lot of cars keep the socket live all the time. You need to get a proper isolator and switch. And a battery box of some kind.
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Aug 22, 2019 10:51
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I wanted to get a steering wheel cover for my 2008 Honda Civic. It's deteriorating and crumbling and leaves little black crumbs everywhere. But really just at the top. Storebought covers haven't really worked because it's kind of a funky design that's really deep. So something that should cover and wrap around the steering wheel doesn't... it's too spread out. If that makes any sense. I also don't want to spend $50-60 for a high end one. Is there a kind of... tennis racquet grip tape style product that you can use to wrap around the wheel itself?
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Aug 22, 2019 23:01
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That was definitely a thing in the 80’s and early 90’s but dunno if you can still find them. E: I’d just buy a used wheel off eBay but I guess that’s a no go if you don’t wanna spend the cash. I see a few as cheap as $60 or so on there. opengl fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 23:03
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2001 Honda Accord Rearview mirror fell off sometime in the last 24 hours. Glass shop wants $45 to reattach it - are they doing anything different or using a different product than what I can get at Autozone or order on Amazon? I'd rather pay $45 for a more permanent fix, but if that's $40 in labor for a $5 adhesive I can order from Amazon, I'd much rather do it myself.
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Aug 22, 2019 23:12
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opengl128 posted:That was definitely a thing in the 80’s and early 90’s but dunno if you can still find them. I might just have to bite the bullet.
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Aug 22, 2019 23:13
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Shooting Blanks posted:2001 Honda Accord It's probably $5 in adhesive and .5 hrs labor, got pictures of the glass and mirror assembly for us?
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Aug 22, 2019 23:20
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Not sure how long they would last, but tennis overgrips would do it. I did it to my winter beaters wheel last year. They're usually about 2 bucks each, you would need 3-4 to wrap it. BonoMan posted:I wanted to get a steering wheel cover for my 2008 Honda Civic. It's deteriorating and crumbling and leaves little black crumbs everywhere. But really just at the top.
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Aug 22, 2019 23:32
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Black88GTA posted:So, after being in my current house for the last ~12 years, I am being forced to move unexpectedly, which means that I have to get as much of my hoopty fleet running as I can. Not much can be done for the Subarus at this point, but I am trying to resurrect my old truck. It's a 2003 Escalade AWD, with the LQ9 6.0L V8. Has about 190k on it. It was running perfectly when I parked it, but has been sitting in my driveway for the last 4 years. So, update on this. After my initial post, it was suggested to ignore the O2 sensors and also that I get a noid light kit and some other stuff to start diagnosing this in more detail. So I picked up a noid light kit, voltage probe, and 4 spark plug checkers. However, when I went to try them out - the car now won't crank or attempt to start at all. When the key is turned momentarily (which was all it took to start, even when running on 4 cylinders) it just does nothing. If held a bit longer, most of the dash lights go out until the key is released. Very boring video here. You can skip from like 0:40 to 1:20 or so because I was just sitting there seeing if the security light would go out with the key in. Important stuff: Battery is new, and has been on a tender this whole time, but not connected to the car. I just reconnected the battery to make the video. After sitting for the last 4 years, the truck was running (on 4 cylinders) a month ago, now will not turn on at all. Yellow security light comes on when you try to crank it, and stays lit even when key is removed. Does this with both keys. Parking lights / taillights come on now when you try to start it, and remain lit after key is removed  I've tried the 30 minute security relearn procedure but the security light just stays lit forever. It doesn't go out after 10 minutes with the key turned to "run" like it's supposed to. I gave up after waiting 20 or so minutes. One odd thing I noticed - if you hit the "lock" button on the driver's door, it used to ding a couple times and then lock the doors a few seconds after the door was shut. Now it doesn't do anything. I've checked everywhere I could see for rodent damage, chewed wires, etc. but have found no signs of critters. I've tried checking grounds, but don't know exactly where they all are so I probably missed some. I did read about one that tends to rot out on the back of the engine block, which I checked and found to be intact. Based on all of this - my thoughts are that the BCM is making GBS threads itself. Looking around online seems to show this as a fairly common problem. Anyone have any other ideas?
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Aug 23, 2019 00:45
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Do the full 30 minute relearn instead of 10 minute; if there's a VATS issue, GMs pretty much always need the full 30 minute relearn after a battery disconnect; the light won't go out after 10. And you need to shut the ignition off after the security light goes off, wait 5 or 30 seconds with the key in the off position, then attempt to start (don't touch any pedals when you attempt to start). The security light will almost always stay on for a bit after removing the key if VATS is being a dick. VATS being pissed off may be keeping the lock dinger from working (mine won't ding when VATS is acting up, anyway). The rest may be BCM or grounds.  For the re-learn, you turn the key to run (don't attempt to start it), and just leave it, no accessories running, doors closed (battery tender is a good idea, but I've done it on just the battery - you can open the door to get out, just make sure to close it after). That seat belt light staying on with the key out is weird, but the rest in the video is pretty classic VATS freakout. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Aug 23, 2019 |
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Aug 23, 2019 01:27
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STR posted:Do the full 30 minute relearn instead of 10 minute; if there's a VATS issue, GMs pretty much always need the full 30 minute relearn after a battery disconnect; the light won't go out after 10. And you need to shut the ignition off after the security light goes off, wait 5 or 30 seconds with the key in the off position, then attempt to start (don't touch any pedals when you attempt to start). The security light will almost always stay on for a bit after removing the key if VATS is being a dick. My first thought was passkey as well, but the weird thing is it sat around for 4 years with a stone dead battery, but fired right up (ish) after bringing in a new one and replacing the lovely old gas. If it is just the passkey system, it's weird that it's loving up now instead of when I first tried resurrecting this beast. That said, looking at the procedure I dredged up online, the 30 minute relearn appears to be done in 10 minute segments (turn key on, wait 10 mins, light goes out, cycle key, repeat 2x more) which is what I was attempting. Although, I don't remember if I had the door shut or not.  The hood was definitely open. Couldn't hurt to give it a shot doing the entire 30 mins at once though, I'll try that this weekend (with the doors and hood definitely shut this time).I pulled the BCM and opened it up to see if there was anything obviously fried or otherwise amiss in there. It looks brand new, aside from some evidence of spiders with a lovely taste in living quarters.
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Aug 23, 2019 01:46
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BonoMan posted:I wanted to get a steering wheel cover for my 2008 Honda Civic. It's deteriorating and crumbling and leaves little black crumbs everywhere. But really just at the top. You can get sew-on leather covers. Personally, since my '13 CR-V steering wheel is also disintegrating, I'm replacing it with a new OE leather one.
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Aug 23, 2019 01:53
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Black88GTA posted:My first thought was passkey as well, but the weird thing is it sat around for 4 years with a stone dead battery, but fired right up (ish) after bringing in a new one and replacing the lovely old gas. If it is just the passkey system, it's weird that it's loving up now instead of when I first tried resurrecting this beast. That said, looking at the procedure I dredged up online, the 30 minute relearn appears to be done in 10 minute segments (turn key on, wait 10 mins, light goes out, cycle key, repeat 2x more) which is what I was attempting. Although, I don't remember if I had the door shut or not. The 10 minute relearn works if the battery hasn't been disconnected AND the ignition switch is only a bit out of spec. Otherwise it takes the full 30 minutes of being on. You also have either a new ignition switch or whatever it uses to read the RFID chips in the keys in your future, depending which style it uses (I think yours uses the RFID key). Do you have any other keys for it to try out? Hood shouldn't matter (I don't think), GM expects that a battery charger will be connected during a 30 minute process. You might try latching the hood latch anyway though, the sensor should be in the latch. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Aug 23, 2019 |
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Aug 23, 2019 02:01
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 H E L P  What can I do to sorta stop the spread here? This is really the only bad part on the car, luckily, but other areas will surely begin their descent soon enough...
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Aug 23, 2019 02:04
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STR posted:The 10 minute relearn works if the battery hasn't been disconnected AND the ignition switch is only a bit out of spec. Otherwise it takes the full 30 minutes of being on. OK, good to know. That's definitely something to try out then. I'll do that if I get some time this weekend. According to the pdf I linked above it's got Passkey III or III+. I have the roundish head keys on the bottom right of the diagram. I have two keys for the truck, both of which behave the same way. Somewhat related, does anyone know if there is a fancy scan tool out there that will spit out error codes related to the GM immobilizer systems / BCM within a couple hundred bucks? I seem to recall seeing something like this (on Youtube maybe?) that looked like a ruggedized tablet type thing but don't remember specifics.
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Aug 23, 2019 03:02
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BonoMan posted:I wanted to get a steering wheel cover for my 2008 Honda Civic. It's deteriorating and crumbling and leaves little black crumbs everywhere. But really just at the top. I used to use these. Takes some time to lace them on, but soooo worth it: https://www.autoanything.com/steeringwheel-covers/60A3792A0A0.aspx
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Aug 23, 2019 04:21
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I have a harbor freight 4'x8' trailer I have a Ford 8.8 and two 15" rims I haven't put the axle under the trailer yet but I know it won't be that big of a deal to make it fit with some springs that bring it up to the level of my Jeep. The axle came with the sway bar. Is there any reason NOT to add some sway bar mounts to the trailer?
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Aug 23, 2019 05:52
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So I'm in the market for a Lexus GS300h, but many of the ones available have cloth seats. I'm only used to poverty spec cloth seats from previous cars. How is Lexus cloth seat quality (there aren't any near me to try out right now)?Teketeketeketeke posted:
Ouch. One of my cars had this on the door and I can tell you what made it worse - wind/washing/powerwash. The flakes are bigger than they appear and can easily take off chunks. I've let mine go because I'm planning to maybe repaint the car myself, but you could perhaps try that optimum clear coat restore (it's like liquid clear coat) over the exposed bit (as that will probably fade) after breaking off the loose part. Really the only fix is repainting it, but this method might "lock" it in a bit and prevent fading/more spread. I'm my just pulling this method out of my rear end as I write, no guarantees
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Aug 23, 2019 09:05
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MrOnBicycle posted:Ouch. One of my cars had this on the door and I can tell you what made it worse - wind/washing/powerwash. The flakes are bigger than they appear and can easily take off chunks. I've let mine go because I'm planning to maybe repaint the car myself, but you could perhaps try that optimum clear coat restore (it's like liquid clear coat) over the exposed bit (as that will probably fade) after breaking off the loose part. Really the only fix is repainting it, but this method might "lock" it in a bit and prevent fading/more spread. I'm my just pulling this method out of my rear end as I write, no guarantees Thanks; you gave me basically what I was looking for - some sort of product to slather over it in the desperate hope that it can be locked in a bit! The car has also been having serious mechanical issues lately so this was an extra kick in the teeth. E: $90 a bottle?! 
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Aug 23, 2019 12:29
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I’m not seeing the tire thread and I’m on mobile so I can’t search, is there a specific term for a tire that’s like all-season except for being dry/wet/dirt instead of dry/wet/snow? I’m wanting to get a set of winters before December or so when we start getting real snow, but until then it would be nice to have summers that had decent performance up in the mountains.
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Aug 23, 2019 17:30
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Teketeketeketeke posted:Thanks; you gave me basically what I was looking for - some sort of product to slather over it in the desperate hope that it can be locked in a bit! I would not expect any product to fix that. At this point the clearcoat has lost its adhesion to the paint. 22 Eargesplitten posted:I’m not seeing the tire thread and I’m on mobile so I can’t search, is there a specific term for a tire that’s like all-season except for being dry/wet/dirt instead of dry/wet/snow? I’m wanting to get a set of winters before December or so when we start getting real snow, but until then it would be nice to have summers that had decent performance up in the mountains. Mud and snow generally go together on tire ratings. I don't think I've ever seen a tire specifically advertised for its ability on a graded dirt road, aside from perhaps rally tires? Which probably wouldn't have the lifespan you want.
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Aug 23, 2019 17:57
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Fair enough, I wasn’t sure if there was some kind of road/all-terrain hybrid. I just have been driving on dirt more than I used to and the car definitely feels a good bit more floaty on dirt than on pavement. I guess I’ll just get either a set of summers or a set of summer-focused all-seasons for the inevitable second winter snowstorm and/or overnight October blizzard, and then a set of winters. I found the tire thread. It just hasn’t been posted in for over a month. So I’ll ask there.
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Aug 23, 2019 18:03
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You're opposed to the tried and true BFG All terrain?
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Aug 23, 2019 18:08
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Do they even make those for passenger cars? They’re on like 80% of off-roading trucks out here but these would be going on an Outback Sport. I’ve always been an all-season DWS guy because we have snow on the streets for maybe one week out of the winter thanks to our snowplow drivers being on the ball, but since there’s apparently winter tires that aren’t rear end on the dry cold concrete that is 95% of my winter driving I might as well do that.
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Aug 23, 2019 18:25
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The A/T KO2 exists in some remarkably small sizes. Nothing I'd call low profile, but way bigger selection than anything else that gets primarily sold to Jeep folk.
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Aug 23, 2019 18:59
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The rule with BFG KO2s is that you MUST have white letters out and if you don't you and I are going to have words.
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Aug 23, 2019 19:11
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