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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm replacing the leaf springs and rear shocks on my 99 ranger, they are pretty shot on the drivers side Fairly standard stuff. Judicious use of jack stands, don't have your face under the leaf springs when you pull the fasteners out, etc. Actual tip: don't torque everything down until you get it back on the ground. If you hulk stuff down with no weight on the suspension, your poo poo can bind up and tear up your bushings. Get everything snugged up to hand tight and then give everything a final torque once it's back down.
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Aug 27, 2019 14:38
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so I figure I'll just do both sides. I'm using the existing spring hangers, but everything else will be new. (leaf springs, bushings, shackles, U bolts and spring seats).
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Any recommendations for getting rid of an old car? I've got a 1996 BMW M3 that has a growing list of issues that aren't worth investing money into at this point. It still runs but I now have 3 vehicles and it needs to go. I was thinking of just junking it, but maybe taking it to Carmax is the better option? At this point I don't really wanna deal with selling it myself on Craigslist.
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Aug 27, 2019 19:18
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Popete posted:Any recommendations for getting rid of an old car? I've got a 1996 BMW M3 that has a growing list of issues that aren't worth investing money into at this point. It still runs but I now have 3 vehicles and it needs to go. plz give me your free m3
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Aug 27, 2019 19:26
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Is it drivable?
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Aug 27, 2019 19:32
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C-Bangin' it 
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Popete posted:Any recommendations for getting rid of an old car? I've got a 1996 BMW M3 that has a growing list of issues that aren't worth investing money into at this point. It still runs but I now have 3 vehicles and it needs to go. You can donate it, most places will tow it for free and it's tax deductible.
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Aug 27, 2019 19:39
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It's driveable. Has cold start issue, rear subframe is rotting out which is the big issue it doesn't even feel safe to jack up by the rear mount points anymore as it's almost all rust and pushing up into the rockers. It leaks coolant and oil pretty bad, suspension should be replaced and is at 130k miles.
Popete fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Aug 27, 2019 |
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Aug 27, 2019 19:46
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Popete posted:It's driveable. Has cold start issue, rear subframe is rotting out which is the big issue it doesn't even feel safe to jack up by the rear mount points anymore as it's almost all rust and pushing up into the rockers. It leaks coolant and oil pretty bad, suspension should be replaced and is at 130k miles. Well you'll get the "OMG part it out, the seats are worth xxx and the rims/tires" but quite a few us been there and just want the loving thing gone no matter the opportunity cost. And who wants a half parted out car sitting on jackstands in their driveway. Yes, any junkyard will gladly take it off your hands for free with tow. And I understand not wanting to gently caress around with idiots on craigslist. I enjoyed the back and the forth for a pair of headlights that I listed for $35. Poke around a little a bit in your town. You might find a salvage outfit that pays better than your average junkyard.
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Aug 27, 2019 20:23
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Carmax will be your best bet, if they'll buy it. They gave me a fair offer on an Altima that I had listed for $1500 on Craigslist with unrepaired accident damage and a rattling timing chain (they gave me $1200 for it, which was what I was hoping to get if I sold it private party). Get it good and warm before you take it to them, so they don't run into the cold start issue. Their offer is the same whether or not you buy a car from them (even if you do buy from them, it's a separate transaction; you have to sign the check back over to them), and they're just going to send it to auction anyway. Otherwise, a junkyard will probably offer $250-500. FWIW, when I junked my old car, Pick n Pull gave me the best offer (by two whole dollars) vs various scrappers.
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Aug 27, 2019 20:24
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STR posted:
Yep, that will be the range.
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Aug 27, 2019 20:28
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Should add, just make sure you have a title ready.
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Aug 27, 2019 20:30
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'm on the side of it all being snake oil, but still - do add-to-fuel diesel injector cleaners do anything to help keeping injectors clean? Not really in terms of keeping them clean. But for heui (ford 6.0) it can reduce “stiction” and prolong the life of already questionable ones.
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Aug 27, 2019 21:15
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Thanks for the help. I'll try CarMax first and see what they offer, every junkyard will only give me 300-500$ but it runs fine once its warm so I figure CarMax ought to give me a little more than that. I'd love to keep the car cause it was my first M3 and it's still a blast to scoot around town in but it's becoming too expensive to justify and with 2 other e46 BMWs already in my garage I'd have to park this one on the street were it'll continue to degrade.
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Aug 27, 2019 21:18
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm replacing the leaf springs and rear shocks on my 99 ranger, they are pretty shot on the drivers side Use all new nuts and bolts, not just the U bolts.
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Aug 27, 2019 21:42
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Popete posted:Thanks for the help. I'll try CarMax first and see what they offer, every junkyard will only give me 300-500$ but it runs fine once its warm so I figure CarMax ought to give me a little more than that. one eight seven seven cars for kids, one eight seven seven cars for kids One eight SEven 7 cars 4 kids, 1 8 7 SEVEN CARS FOR KIDS if you itemize, donate it and write KBB value off on your taxes and those people deserve the car for coming up with the most infectious musical jingle in the history of mankind
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Aug 28, 2019 00:05
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The sad thing is that with the new stanfard deduction you may not have enough things to itemize and even save anything on your taxes. Make sure you donate it to what you feel is a good cause so you get a warm fuzzy. And then go discover that the operations cost of that donation siphoned off 40% of the donated value. Maybe sell it to a goon for $500 to race?
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Aug 28, 2019 00:42
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rdb posted:Not really in terms of keeping them clean. Had some potential injector clatter in my dads V70. Was so cheap with 25% off so I couldn't resist some STP diesel injector cleaner to throw in.
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Aug 28, 2019 08:57
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wesleywillis posted:Use all new nuts and bolts, not just the U bolts. I figured on that already. Everything other than the hangers will be new. One of the YouTube videos I saw said I should take the time to spray the undercarriage with anti rust paint. I’m assuming that would be good advice?
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Aug 28, 2019 12:55
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AFewBricksShy posted:I figured on that already. Everything other than the hangers will be new. As long as it isn't rubberized crap that locks in moisture and rust. South Main Auto has some videos on this, like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXvl9nt57Kg
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Aug 28, 2019 13:43
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MrOnBicycle posted:As long as it isn't rubberized crap that locks in moisture and rust. South Main Auto has some videos on this, like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXvl9nt57Kg I got the tip from watching this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ1o_F8ULjw I might just do the first coat (7:00, he recommends "rust reformer") and not the rubber part. Also while I'm under there I'm also going to install a tow hitch.
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Aug 28, 2019 14:37
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AFewBricksShy posted:I got the tip from watching this guy: Yeah skip that. I have used Dinitrol when doing rust prevention. Basically two parts, one thin liquid that moves into all nook and crannies, and then a thicker mass. Both keep out moisture, but the thicker mass protects a bit more from physical wear. Edit: GG, I think my tires on one of the cars have flat-spotted from sitting too long. Between finishing med school and getting sick twice during spring I didn't have time to really care/find a way to keep the car off the ground. Sigh. Almost new tires as well. 
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Aug 29, 2019 |
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Aug 28, 2019 17:43
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So I have a 2001 Honda Civic (manual) which is in fairly good condition, except the battery capacity is low. I came back from a month-long trip to find that when I tried to start the car, it would crank sluggishly and almost start, but didn't. At first, I thought it was because I didn't start it for long enough, but trying again, it continued to crank and not start. It wasn't the battery, since all the electrical stuff was coming on. However, eventually I drained the battery, but I had one of those portable battery jump-start packs so using that, I tried a few more times, and to my surprise it eventually started up successfully. After that, it went back to starting normally. My question is, what could have happened during the month my car was idle to make it behave like that? I thought the main danger of leaving a car idle for too long was the battery running out, but even with my old battery, that wasn't the initial problem. FWIW, I've left my car for month-long trips before and never had a problem when I got back. I also have been keeping up with oil changes, although it's overdue for a major service (which I've been putting off since I've been meaning to get a new car). I don't know that much about cars, so I'm probably missing something stupid. Thanks!
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Sep 1, 2019 02:05
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floWenoL posted:So I have a 2001 Honda Civic (manual) which is in fairly good condition, except the battery capacity is low. I came back from a month-long trip to find that when I tried to start the car, it would crank sluggishly and almost start, but didn't. At first, I thought it was because I didn't start it for long enough, but trying again, it continued to crank and not start. Sitting too long will do different things. Sometimes it might start right up after a month, sometimes not. Depends on the battery, condition, weather, all sorts of factors.
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Sep 1, 2019 03:27
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We chant this thing constantly...never rule out the battery. Turning on dash lights is a lot easier than cranking the engine.
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Sep 1, 2019 07:03
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My battery died recently after letting my Starlet sit for a month+. One telltale was how much the headlights dimmed (almost completely off) when it cranked, even after being on a trickle charger for 24 hours.
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Sep 1, 2019 08:29
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Good to know, thanks. I'll see how much my headlights dim when I crank it, but it looks like the simplest explanation is that the battery is close to death.
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Sep 1, 2019 08:51
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Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and read voltage. Then read voltage while actually cranking the engine. A good battery should read 12-12.7v just sitting there, and won’t drop much below 11 while cranking. A dead battery might read the same no-load voltage, but only show 5 or 6v (or less) while cranking.
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Sep 1, 2019 13:02
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2005 Toyota Matrix, base model, manual everything (so no power locks, no remote hatch release). GF is the one and only owner since new. She used only one key for the first 14 years, then switched to the other key (which was in brand new condition) when the original stopped working on the passenger door and rear hatch. I carry the worn key for when I need to drive it. We got the passenger lock working again with it with some graphite. The hatch would unlock for me with some jiggling until the other day, and reliably with her key. Now it won't unlock with either key. It will, however, lock with the key, and we can still unlock the glass (to unlock the glass, you turn it to lock, then turn a bit further). Tried a little graphite, no love. There's an access panel on the inside that looks like it's mainly for access to the license plate lamps, but I'm able to unlock the hatch through there. But we'd like to get it unlocking with the key again. New lock cylinder time, or is there a chance this one can be fixed? If we replace it, it'll need to be rekeyed to match anyway, I assume any locksmith can do that?
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Sep 4, 2019 07:32
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2001 Mazda Premacy (before it was called the 5)(this is in Japan) Recently had the Crank Shaft pulley fall apart, part with belt groves separated from the cast part that bolts to the crank shaft. Was driving it at the time, felt power steering go and got a battery light, thought it was just a belt, wasn't in a place to stop yet so drove it about 2 blocks and it died at a stop sign. Replaced the pulley and belts but now it will crank but not start (doesn't sound like it is trying to start. Can smell that it is getting fuel, can hear the relay click when key goes to on, put a timing light on it and it wouldn't light so not getting spark. Any ideas where to go for trouble shooting? Checked the codes and it had one for vibration sensor one (found it un-plugged, plugged it back in) and generator voltage figure this happened when the pulley gave way and it wasn't turning. Cleared codes and am not getting any to show up after trying to start it.
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Sep 4, 2019 13:02
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I guess given location of failure/repair look into crank sensor?
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Sep 4, 2019 13:50
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Is it still timed correctly?
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Sep 4, 2019 17:42
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MrYenko posted:Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and read voltage. Then read voltage while actually cranking the engine. A good battery should read 12-12.7v just sitting there, and won’t drop much below 11 while cranking. Thanks, I borrowed a multimeter from a friend and did just that. My battery is ~12.3-12.5v when off, and drops to ~9.4V when cranking. So it's not good, but it's not completely dead either. Seems plausible that letting it sit for a month would drain enough charge to not be able to start the engine. Does that sound right?
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Sep 4, 2019 19:15
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Yeah, all cars (especially modern ones) have some draw on the battery when shut off. It can be enough that if left alone for a month, a marginal battery won't have enough to crank the car.
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Sep 4, 2019 19:26
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STR posted:2005 Toyota Matrix, base model, manual everything (so no power locks, no remote hatch release). GF is the one and only owner since new. The key is turning in the lock, which sounds to me like it's a latch/pushrod issue. Can you see the actuating mechanism when the panel is removed?
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Sep 5, 2019 02:31
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I recently fixed a sticky car doorlock with copious amounts of WD40 sprayed on anything I could find behind the door card, but it sounds like you're past that step
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Sep 5, 2019 05:22
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WD40 just attracts dirt, it's not a good lubricant. Powdered graphite is what you usually want to use for locks - and I've loaded it up with that.PainterofCrap posted:The key is turning in the lock, which sounds to me like it's a latch/pushrod issue. Can you see the actuating mechanism when the panel is removed? The key only turns one direction in the lock - clockwise (which locks the hatch, then if you go a bit further, pops open the hatch glass - then returns to center fine); it won't turn counter-clockwise more than a couple of degrees from when you insert the key (basically as far as it would go if you had inserted the wrong key). I can see and move the actuating mechanism with the panel removed, the lock cylinder isn't turning at all when you try to unlock it, but that's kinda obvious by the lock not turning counter-clockwise with the key. I can grab the pushrod by hand and unlock it, which is how we're getting the hatch open for now. It really just seems like a worn out lock cylinder more than anything. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Sep 5, 2019 |
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Sep 5, 2019 16:02
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It would stand to reason that if the key was worn the pins have some wear as well. Although idk what they're made of I imagine it's a hard brass but not too hard or your keys would burn out quickly. Google seems to think brass or nickel plated. I'd go for a new one for that fresh feeling. QUESTION! Does anyone have tips on installing gaskets on an old transfer case or transmission? I thought I did a great job on my transmission but I see it's leaking still from the PTO cover plate and the Gasket behind the metal collar by the yoke. Both of these were cleaned up, fresh gaskets and some Gasket dressing maybe RTV I can't remember. I'm going to drop the transfer case this weekend maybe and I'd like it to stop leaking for the first time in forever. It's an NP205 and if someone tells me they always leak I guess I'll live with it.
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Sep 5, 2019 16:14
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StormDrain posted:It would stand to reason that if the key was worn the pins have some wear as well. Although idk what they're made of I imagine it's a hard brass but not too hard or your keys would burn out quickly. Google seems to think brass or nickel plated. What year?
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Sep 5, 2019 16:59
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1972, in my IH pickup. It's a divorced transfer case. Really curious if there's a certain kind of gasket or treatment or process that works best. I wish lube locker made all gaskets.
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Sep 5, 2019 17:05
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Does it have a stamped housing?
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Sep 5, 2019 17:14
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Cast.
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Sep 5, 2019 17:23
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