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Wanting to finally get around to stripping the paint on some of my earlier models to redo them. I have this under my sink https://www.amazon.com/Goo-Gone-Ori...8-1-spons&psc=1 and was wondering if it'll work and be safe on plastics?
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Mar 6, 2019 17:34
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IPA Regulations posted:Anyone got some recommendations for very compact work stations? My living situation is about to change and its almost certain I'll be trading down a lot in terms of personal space. Currently paint on a cheap, wide IKEA desk that also has my pc and a bunch of boxes/trays stacked alongside for storage but I'm probably going to have to figure out something more efficient soon. Something with an extendable surface or hinges/integrated shelves that roll out? Idk. Something like this? :max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/William-S.-Wooton-Desk-56a017fb5f9b58eba4aee816.jpg) Here's a link with some more types of antique writing desks: https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/know-your-antique-desk-styles-148421 I don't know if there is a modern equivalent but this is what it seems like would work best for what you described.
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Mar 6, 2019 17:53
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Skails posted:I would aim for something between the two, but some minor photo adjustment to the darker one can get closer to what I think it should look like.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:01
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CapnAndy posted:That spike of black in the levels is really weird, though -- it's outweighing the actual image data by orders of magnitude. I don't know enough to know what could be causing it, but it really shouldn't be there. That's not weird at all. Levels measures the amount of a value. The values that feature heavily in those images are light greys from the background. So there's a huge spike at the mid/upper end. It should absolutely be there.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:12
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Finished figures I have been meaning to get around to posting but haven't had the time. I have a mighty need for a good lightbox.   
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Mar 6, 2019 18:20
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Booley posted:That's not weird at all. Levels measures the amount of a value. The values that feature heavily in those images are light greys from the background. So there's a huge spike at the mid/upper end. It should absolutely be there.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:22
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General photography advice: Try to get the brightness pumped up on your camera/phone by upping the exposure or something. If you just crank up the bar in post-processing, things get really noisy really quick.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:30
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Inspector_666 posted:General photography advice: Try to get the brightness pumped up on your camera/phone by upping the exposure or something. If you just crank up the bar in post-processing, things get really noisy really quick. Also try to get as much diffuse light on the mini as possible from the direction the camera is pointing at it. I just put a standard lamp with conical lampshade and a daylight bulb close to my head as i take the picture. Doing that plus having a good background is all you need to take good pictures, a light box is nice but unnecessary for most people. edit: GW posted a good guide to photographing minis in laymans terms: https://www.warhammer-community.com/2018/03/06/the-model-photo-how-to-photograph-models-for-display/ WorldIndustries fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 18:49
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CapnAndy posted:Okay, that makes sense. I went into Photoshop myself and adjusted them out and the background dropped away to white, so you're right. A quick note about adjusting levels if you are new to it: The hills and spikes of the histogram are where there is data in the image, flat areas mean there isn't anything in that range. On one side is the lights, the other the darks. The quickest and easiest way to adjust levels is to bring both sides in (increasing the lights or darks) until you get to the bottom of the first large hill or spike. What that does, is make sure that you have a true black, and a true white somewhere in the image, this gives you a full range of contrast and makes images pop. It's just a rule of thumb and won't work on all images but it's a good place to start. Apologies if I mangled that explanation, I was a photographer long ago and this is the minimum I would do to nearly every image in post.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:58
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Personally, I found that less direct lighting and a longer exposure time gave me the better results. If you don't have a DSLR then you can't really mess with that though. Also your choice of background has a very big impact on the final result, which is why those mouse pad things with psychedelic textures wouldn't be my first choice. I think I had a post about this earlier in the thread, but here are some tests I did.    I settled on the last one, which is closest to life. The key for me was minimal, but specific use of direct lighting along with a dark glass panel for the mini to sit on + black backdrop. A lot of this is an art and not a science so ymmv. BoneMonkey posted:Is there any place which you guys recommend for getting some custom bits to stick on some space marines? I'm making a kill team out of the Know No Fear box and they are a little samey. ebay is where I get 90% of my bits
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Mar 6, 2019 19:01
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when using a wet palette should there be standing water in the bottom of the container or should it all be absorbed by the pad?
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Mar 6, 2019 19:23
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BULBASAUR posted:The key for me was minimal, but specific use of direct lighting along with a dark glass panel for the mini to sit on + black backdrop. A lot of this is an art and not a science so ymmv. I kinda want to try using glass panel for the base since that would remove the linty look of the backdrop I have. I think my biggest issue is the focus but that is mainly because I use the remote shooting function for my camera and I haven't figured out how not to make it auto-focus on one point yet.
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Mar 6, 2019 20:29
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crazystray posted:Something like this? Yeah that would rock. If I could figure out how to get something like that that could also house a pc/monitor and wasn't hugely expensive on account of being 200 years old I would be all over that poo poo 
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Mar 6, 2019 20:57
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crazystray posted:Something like this? I want this so bad. Finished up Crimson Ghost dude. First ever space marine! I'm a true ham now. (I missed some mold lines, I'm dumb.)  I'm working on this dude now, I love the poo poo out of nurgle bois.  I'm trying something different with this guy, I didn't put down any base coat. I just washed all of him with some dark brown and then started layering over the top. At first I was just layering blue and then yellow to get green through translucence, I had limited success. But I couldn't get any really vibrate shades that way, so I went back to mixing on the palette. I really like this way of painting, and its much closer to how I paint on the canvas, it also has the bonus of being very forgiving of mistakes. It is slow as gently caress though. This dude is pushing like 6-8 hours or so and its probably another 5 till I get it finished. I also have to learn more about metal paints, they act strangely.
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Mar 6, 2019 22:43
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Anyone try colorshift rattlecans on resin minis? What was the result? Just walked by the stuff at Canadian tire and I got the impulsiveness. Edit: hey Canadians, in two days it's going to be warm enough to spray paint outside, are you all excited? I'm excited. Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Mar 7, 2019 |
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Mar 7, 2019 00:41
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How do you all pick out color schemes? I'm still slowly painting up a set for "All Quiet on the Martain Front" and while I did find a camo pattern for very early British tank I like, I'm stumpped on the infantry. Both the US and British forces were in brown uniforms and I am not sure how to differentiate them so you can tell them apart at 15mm scale.
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Mar 7, 2019 00:53
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I find colormind.io helpful when throwing together palettes.
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Mar 7, 2019 01:11
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Trying to work out an updated metal base color for my Iron Warriors. Some practice I did over the last day: Not happy tbh. My highlights blew out the base colors almost entirely, but at least I have a direction now.
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Mar 7, 2019 03:09
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Anyone try colorshift rattlecans on resin minis? What was the result? Heck yeah, the one day where it was above 0 and not raining in January I primed about 400 bucks worth of models and terrain. For Canadian Tire paints, do you prefer Rustolium 2x or Painters touch?
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Mar 7, 2019 04:30
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BULBASAUR posted:Trying to work out an updated metal base color for my Iron Warriors. Some practice I did over the last day:
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Mar 7, 2019 05:20
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Team_q posted:Heck yeah, the one day where it was above 0 and not raining in January I primed about 400 bucks worth of models and terrain. Funny you should ask, picked up white pt and black rustolium. The black did better, but can't be sure without comparing color to color. They're both fine.
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Mar 7, 2019 07:31
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I like the second one from the left, although it may be a bit classic for IW if you wanted to keep it strange. Also http://colormind.io/ seems like the perfect thing to challenge myself and try out new colors, so thanks BoneMonkey! My problem is, I used to own a very limited amount of colors - I just bought the ones I liked the most on top of the basic RGB+WK - and now that I own a larger color collection I still find myself drifting towards that very same palette. First one I got looks like fun:  EDIT: oh wow it's even better than I though at first, you can lock in two complementary colors at the opposite ends of the palette and you'll get a set of intermediates that work good with both - at least in theory. So for example I got this random palette (that I'm saving, cause it looks good for Dark Eldar or stuff like that):  And then after locking the ends I got these within a couple of tries:  
That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 11:49 on Mar 7, 2019 |
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Mar 7, 2019 11:43
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What would be good colors to use for a 90's SAS 120mm figurine? This very one: For the uniform mostly. Vallejo if possible, Citadel if it has to 
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Mar 7, 2019 12:02
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Hey thread, has anyone used the Modifx Airbrush? I checked the OP and saw nothing about it.
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Mar 7, 2019 12:25
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That Italian Guy posted:I like the second one from the left, although it may be a bit classic for IW if you wanted to keep it strange. Ain't it great. I think it also matters which position you lock the colours into, you can get different types of palettes from different positions.
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Mar 7, 2019 13:22
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Games Workshop only has free shipping over $65 and I needed more glue. This was really just a reason to buy more figures to paint. :P
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Mar 7, 2019 17:21
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Why the everloving christ are you buying glue from GW? It's both stupendously overpriced and poo poo.
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Mar 7, 2019 17:25
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thespaceinvader posted:Why the everloving christ are you buying glue from GW? It's both stupendously overpriced and poo poo. The non GW glue I got was garbage too, so I thought I would try this. :/ What are you using?
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Mar 7, 2019 17:31
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thespaceinvader posted:Why the everloving christ are you buying glue from GW? It's both stupendously overpriced and poo poo. GW's stuff seems in line with other plastic cement price-wise, and the metal applicator is handy as heck.
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Mar 7, 2019 17:31
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One of each:
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Mar 7, 2019 17:42
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TTerrible posted:One of each: I put this on my Amazon wishlist for the next time I need glue. It's only a dollar or two more expensive but I am willing to try new things.
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Mar 7, 2019 17:48
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Big fan of tamiya, myself. How much more expensive / faster is the 'quick setting' stuff?
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Mar 7, 2019 18:03
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I've enjoyed the GW plastic glue 
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Mar 7, 2019 18:11
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Asmodai_00 posted:I've enjoyed the GW plastic glue Monster!
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Mar 7, 2019 18:17
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Asmodai_00 posted:I've enjoyed the GW plastic glue Same, though yeah the superglue is kinda lovely
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Mar 7, 2019 18:22
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Asmodai_00 posted:I've enjoyed the GW plastic glue I got a bottle like 5ish years ago when I had a spurt of hobby activity. It didn't seem to bond the parts properly and to this day I have genestealers whose arms randomly fall off when moving them. Never bought it from them again after. It's weird because normally plastic glue melts the parts together, any time I told someone about this weird occurrence they would say 'hmm are you sure it wasn't super glue?'. No, it wasn't 
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Mar 7, 2019 18:32
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Sab669 posted:Big fan of tamiya, myself. How much more expensive / faster is the 'quick setting' stuff? The solvent evaporates very, very fast. In seconds. It's really good for getting pulled into hairline joint gaps via capillary action.
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Mar 7, 2019 18:52
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The only glue I use: Liquid Cement For Plastics 1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6ODS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QfwGCbZJG25MR
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Mar 7, 2019 19:23
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Asmodai_00 posted:I've enjoyed the GW plastic glue Why not just enjoy cocaine? It's cheaper by far.
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Mar 7, 2019 19:47
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:The only glue I use: Thanks for this link. That's exactly what I used years ago and once I wrap up this dreaded kitchen remodel I plan to get back in as it were and was hoping to find the same glue (I remember what it looked like, and the applicator really is excellent).
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Mar 7, 2019 19:48
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