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cakesmith handyman posted:A quick Google says that's a sandwich of timber, plate and timber, is that right? A 1" hole in that will be fun, you'll need a corded drill and a hole saw for timber, then when you get to the plate, switch to a 1" hole saw for metal, then back to the wood hole saw when you're through that. Drill in the middle only, not the top or bottom third. Does that sound good to anyone else? What kind of drill? Do I need an impact driver or a hammer drill or something else all together?
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Jun 25, 2019 21:41
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there wolf posted:What kind of drill? Do I need an impact driver or a hammer drill or something else all together? If no one sees a problem with my plan you just need a powerful drill. Impact drivers are for driving screws into timber, hammer drills are for hammering the bit into concrete etc. You just need a power drill. If you get a hammer drill and you can turn the hammer function off it'll do this job fine and also drill into brick and concrete later, a very useful tool to own.
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Jun 25, 2019 22:12
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there wolf posted:What kind of drill? Do I need an impact driver or a hammer drill or something else all together?
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Jun 25, 2019 22:19
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Also make sure the drill + bit you get isn't longer than the space between the beam and any obstructions.
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Jun 25, 2019 22:21
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https://baddogtools.com/rover-bits/ Watched them demo at Infocomm and drat near bought a set of their bits. Can drill almost a 90 degree hole through a stud. Just have to slow down when you hit the metal 
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Jun 25, 2019 22:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Be very careful with big drills and big bits-if the bit catches and binds, the drill is powerful enough to break a hand (speaking from experience!) or throw you off balance at the top of a ladder. Or in my case bats your hands away, stays wedged in the joist by the auger bit, stays ON, and burns out the motor.
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Jun 25, 2019 22:46
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B-Nasty posted:I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785H3XR7 Seconding; I have one of these and it rocks.
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Jun 26, 2019 01:06
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:I’m in the process of installing hardiebacker in a tub surround, that also happens to be part of an eave in my roof. I found that one of the boards is a bit uneven at one end, about 1/4 out of flush with the board below (https://imgur.com/a/qqztQhG) As long as you plan on taping, thinsetting and caulking the tile at the change in plane (which you should be doing anyway) I’d say it’s fine in my opinion. What is your chosen path for waterproofing?
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Jun 26, 2019 01:47
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stupid puma posted:As long as you plan on taping, thinsetting and caulking the tile at the change in plane (which you should be doing anyway) I’d say it’s fine in my opinion. What is your chosen path for waterproofing? I am, and as far as waterproofing it seems that 2-3 layers of redguard painted on the surface is the way to go? I’m gonna do that after taping/putting thinset on all the seams.
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Jun 26, 2019 02:51
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cakesmith handyman posted:If no one sees a problem with my plan you just need a powerful drill. Impact drivers are for driving screws into timber, hammer drills are for hammering the bit into concrete etc. You just need a power drill. If you get a hammer drill and you can turn the hammer function off it'll do this job fine and also drill into brick and concrete later, a very useful tool to own. Looks like I can rent a chorded, right-angle drill for the job. Thank you all for your advice and warnings about the danger of big drills. If my dad is really set on this, I'll nag him accordingly.
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Jun 26, 2019 12:36
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Nevets posted:Also make sure the drill + bit you get isn't longer than the space between the beam and any obstructions. If it is, they make 90° adapters.
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Jun 26, 2019 14:45
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Anyone got recommendations for a really solid corded hand drill? Any particular brands or units? Looking for something that will last a couple of decades (if treated right), if such a thing (theoretically) exists these days. Possibly interested in one with a side handle.
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Jun 26, 2019 21:44
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I bought a corded dewalt 20some years ago with a side handle, still works great.
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Jun 26, 2019 21:52
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I've had a DWD110 for a long time, only complaint is the variable speed trigger is way too sensitive, goes from slow to fast to gently caress I dropped it in about 1/8" of pull. Don't think it's got a spot for a handle though.
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Jun 26, 2019 21:57
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Nice, thanks. From googling a bit it looks like Dewalt and Black & Decker may be the same company effectively?
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Jun 26, 2019 22:10
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El Grillo posted:Nice, thanks. From googling a bit it looks like Dewalt and Black & Decker may be the same company effectively? I wouldn't pretend to buy anything "for a couple decades" - just pick something that a contractor would buy and go from there. Assuming you aren't a contractor it's going to last "forever", and even if you buy 3 in 20 years it's likely cheaper and just as effective as one that costs 4 times as much that also only lasts 20 years. Keep the dust out of the bits and stuff greased up will make it last longer.
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Jun 26, 2019 22:13
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El Grillo posted:Nice, thanks. From googling a bit it looks like Dewalt and Black & Decker may be the same company effectively? Same parent company different tools. Much like the rest of the world its all owned by a handful of companies. 
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Jun 26, 2019 22:14
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Sell your expensive good stuff under one brand name and your cheap crap under another, that way you get access to both markets without losing your reputation for quality.
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Jun 26, 2019 22:26
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Interesting, seems it's pretty hard to get a regular corded drill from DeWalt/B&D, they only do corded hammer drills. Buying for my old man who wants corded because he won't be using it that often so batteries just die from lack of cycling. e: Stanley has a couple of models though it seems. e: welp, no. I've had to go to eBay and look up legacy stuff. Seems people literally only make corded drills if they're hammer drills now, everything else is battery, except for some £400 professional stuff. El Grillo fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jun 26, 2019 |
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Jun 26, 2019 22:38
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https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW235...ps%2C165&sr=8-4 Strong enough to break your hand, and made in the US. They're pretty good for $99. E: nm you're in the UK so I dunno what's available there. Makita makes good corded drills too
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Jun 27, 2019 00:34
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I don't have a dry well, so I use a pump to get water draining from my dehumidifier to the washing machine drain. I want to create some sort of fail-safe for the pump. I have had pumps fail in the past and flood my basement. Because my dehum drain is essentially gravity powered, the water level can never rise above the drain right? So what if I just put my dehum along with the pump inside a nice deep tray or bin? If the pump fails the water should stop rising once it hits the dehum drain level. I'd just have a bin full of water that I'd have to empty, also my pump would probably be killed in the process, but whatever I'll another one for $40. I think my dehum could be in water up to the drain level. No electronics down there. Just trying to find problems with my plan. Fire hazard? DIAGRAMS... Setup:  Functioning normally:  If pump fails, water should stay contained in the bin no higher than the dehum drain, right?: 
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Jun 27, 2019 01:22
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Bloodfart McCoy posted:I don't have a dry well, so I use a pump to get water draining from my dehumidifier to the washing machine drain. I want to create some sort of fail-safe for the pump. I have had pumps fail in the past and flood my basement. Why not put the pump in a shallow pan, like a water heater pan, and get a good, loud leak sensor alarm? If you're leaving the house for any significant amount of time, just turn the dehumidifier off. Another way to solve this is to use the built-in safety switch in many condensate pumps to wire up a solid state relay controlling the DH's power. Many of these pumps have a normally closed switch (low voltage only) that could power your SSR. This safety switch is usually connected to the AC controller to shut down an AC unit if the pump stops pumping the condensate.
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Jun 27, 2019 02:06
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B-Nasty posted:Why not put the pump in a shallow pan, like a water heater pan, and get a good, loud leak sensor alarm? If you're leaving the house for any significant amount of time, just turn the dehumidifier off. If the leak alarm fails then my floor still gets soaked. This is really just a peace of mind setup for me. B-Nasty posted:Another way to solve this is to use the built-in safety switch in many condensate pumps to wire up a solid state relay controlling the DH's power. Many of these pumps have a normally closed switch (low voltage only) that could power your SSR. This safety switch is usually connected to the AC controller to shut down an AC unit if the pump stops pumping the condensate. The safety switch on almost every condensation pump I’ve seen has to be hardwired into an HVAC system for it to work. I’m just using a regular old portable dehumidifier. I don’t trust my electrical abilities to successfully MacGyver the dehum to be able to accept those wires. There apparently used to be a very simple system you could order pretty cheap that would take care of the wiring for you, but it’s not being made anymore and I can’t find any sort of substitution for it. “Automatic Dehumidifier Disconnect Flood Prevention System”: https://youtu.be/9ODIwihVddI Again. Simple enough, but I can’t make one reliably.
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Jun 27, 2019 02:39
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:I am, and as far as waterproofing it seems that 2-3 layers of redguard painted on the surface is the way to go? I’m gonna do that after taping/putting thinset on all the seams. I’ve not ever Redguarded personally and I’m no expert (only tiled 6 or 7 floors, 2 shower/bath surrounds) but it sounds like you’re on a right track.
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Jun 27, 2019 02:51
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stupid puma posted:I’ve not ever Redguarded personally and I’m no expert (only tiled 6 or 7 floors, 2 shower/bath surrounds) but it sounds like you’re on a right track. Yeah this is my first shower surround and flooring tile experience and I’m trying to DIY everything. Completely gutted the main bathroom in a 100+ year old house.
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Jun 27, 2019 04:08
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El Grillo posted:Anyone got recommendations for a really solid corded hand drill? Any particular brands or units? Looking for something that will last a couple of decades (if treated right), if such a thing (theoretically) exists these days. We actually have a tool thread here in DIY. That being said, I'd probably get a hammer drill with the switch on top to turn off hammer function.
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Jun 27, 2019 04:27
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El Grillo posted:Interesting, seems it's pretty hard to get a regular corded drill from DeWalt/B&D, they only do corded hammer drills. Didn't realise you were over here. Just buy a cheap corded drill from Screwfix like this one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msrh600-4-6kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-220-240v/994fy That'd do normal drilling, hammer drilling and chisel. It'll last long enough considering the price. There are better brands at twice the price too, if money is less of an issue. Almost all "hammer" drills you can turn that function off.
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Jun 27, 2019 09:07
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cakesmith handyman posted:https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msrh600-4-6kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-220-240v/994fy NB for a lot of these you can't use the hammer function with normal drill bits as the chuck isn't designed for it and will get pounded to death. You (they) will need SDS+ bits when using the hammer function. But yeah even the cheapest knockoff has a mode selector switch.
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Jun 27, 2019 10:34
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Bloodfart McCoy posted:If the leak alarm fails then my floor still gets soaked. This is really just a peace of mind setup for me. I'd say your better bet is a shallow pan with a water sensor and a power shutoff. If it detects water, it shuts off the dehumidifier. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HydroCheck-WaterWatcher-Leak-Detector/dp/B00988NOV2 There're also a lot of newer portable dehumidifiers with integrated pumps and float valves that shutoff the dehumidifier part if the tank gets full. Something to consider if you ever decide to replace your current one.
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Jun 27, 2019 19:39
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Brute Squad posted:I'd say your better bet is a shallow pan with a water sensor and a power shutoff. If it detects water, it shuts off the dehumidifier. That’s the stuff right there 
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Jun 27, 2019 20:23
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Thanks for help with drills folks sorry had a look for tools thread but obviously missed it. Also missed that so many hammer drills also have normal modes!
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Jun 27, 2019 20:57
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Brute Squad posted:There're also a lot of newer portable dehumidifiers with integrated pumps and float valves that shutoff the dehumidifier part if the tank gets full. Something to consider if you ever decide to replace your current one. Also if your dehumidifier runs a lot there are not some inverter based ones that are MUCH better on power usage. It may not take very long to break even on one in power savings.
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Jun 28, 2019 15:14
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I have two cabinets in the kitchen that either didn't have kick panels put on, or the PO destroyed them. One is almost 4.5" tall gap, the other 5.5". There's no lip or anything to screw/glue a panel to, and I can't really get in there to add a strip to attach one to. One next to the fridge, the other's next to the stove. Any suggestions on how to attach a panel or something under there?
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Jun 29, 2019 16:04
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Use screws from inside the cabinet? vvv: I totally forgot about those. But 2 screws are cheaper 
RabbitWizard fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jun 29, 2019 |
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Jun 29, 2019 16:15
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They sell brackets that clip to the legs and screw to the kickboard.
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Jun 29, 2019 18:12
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Whoever installed this ceiling fixture can suck my dick for eternity. Put a loving 1x4 in between the rafters and screw it in place by drilling holes up through the ceiling, through the drywall, then having them patched and painted over.
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Jun 29, 2019 23:41
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Using one of those Soleus portable AC/Dehumidifier units in dehumidifier only mode for my basement. I get that it needs to be vented outside in AC Mode to remove the hot air, but the manual clearly states that the unit must ALSO be vented to the outside in dehumidifier mode. That doesn’t make sense to me... at all... No other dehum I’ve ever seen has been vented to the outside. And if you did, Wouldn’t all the warm dry air just be sucked outside and more moist air be pulled in from other parts of the house in a never ending cycle???? Is the supposed need to vent these portable ac units running in dehum mode unique to Soleus portable AC units and not normal window style AC’s? 
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Jun 30, 2019 03:02
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Whoever installed this ceiling fixture can suck my dick for eternity. Put a loving 1x4 in between the rafters and screw it in place by drilling holes up through the ceiling, through the drywall, then having them patched and painted over. Wait what? Like it's just sitting on top of the ceiling drywall, and they just screwed up into it from the room? Also can someone link a decent blade to cut the heads off 1/2 inch lag bolts? I have an oscillations multi tool and a smaller Dremel but there's so many choices for blades. I really only need to cut a handful ~10 of them, max.
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Jun 30, 2019 03:38
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Wasabi the J posted:Wait what? Like it's just sitting on top of the ceiling drywall, and they just screwed up into it from the room? Yes, exactly that. A 1/2” hole was drilled in the middle and the wires dropped through for the light. I put in screws from the side through the rafters and L brackets into the 1x4 to the rafters. It’s plenty secure now but jfc who does this poo poo.
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Jun 30, 2019 04:06
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Wasabi the J posted:Wait what? Like it's just sitting on top of the ceiling drywall, and they just screwed up into it from the room? I like the dremel EZ lock cutting wheels.
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Jun 30, 2019 06:40
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