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TheBigAristotle posted:I run cleaner into my airbrush shortly before, always between colors, and after I'm done. You've answered your own question here If you're getting a build up on the needle, then instead of just running cleaner through the airbrush, you also need to be wiping down the needle after every use
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Mar 16, 2019 14:05
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TheBigAristotle posted:I run cleaner into my airbrush shortly before, always between colors, and after I'm done. I just wipe the needle down. I also strip and ultrasonically clean the whole thing every now and then.
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Mar 16, 2019 14:21
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I lucked into a great airbrush cleaning method a few months back. Get a powerful spray bottle, like you would use to punish a cat, and add a little dish soap to it, like you would use to test a gas line connection. Then when you finish with a color 1) spray some water in the cup and dump it, 2) spray some water and then wipe it out, and 3) spray some water and then spray it out. Takes 30 seconds or so. I haven't had a single clog for months and the only disassembly cleaning I've done is occasionally removing the needle to wipe it off. Of course I'm using a patriot 105, so I can't say how well it would work for a more finicky airbrush.
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Mar 16, 2019 17:50
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How do you stop getting water everywhere? I am an incredibly clumsy person always accidentally getting a fingerprint here or splattering paint there. I feel like i need a full clean suit and plastic walls sometimes.
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Mar 16, 2019 20:01
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Sultan Tarquin posted:How do you stop getting water everywhere? I am an incredibly clumsy person always accidentally getting a fingerprint here or splattering paint there. I feel like i need a full clean suit and plastic walls sometimes. It sounds like you need to be more gentle with your brush strokes, and have less paint and water on them. You only really need a tiny amount of each on your brush. Also, get something like this https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Painting-Handle-2017 if you are finding that you're getting paint on your hands a lot. I need to get one myself!
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Mar 16, 2019 20:19
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is size zero the smallest brush you guys use? is there smaller/negative sizes? the smallest brush I have right now is the citadel starter brush which doesn't have a number on it, but I feel like something smaller would be better for a lot of things.
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Mar 16, 2019 20:27
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Doorknob Slobber posted:is size zero the smallest brush you guys use? is there smaller/negative sizes? the smallest brush I have right now is the citadel starter brush which doesn't have a number on it, but I feel like something smaller would be better for a lot of things. There is 00 and 000, imo they are not good for much. If your brush has a good tip and you load it correctly, the point of the tip is very small and can be used fir super detail work just fine. When you try doing super detail work with a 000 brush, the paint start drying on the brush within seconds. You try to line up that perfect touch to paint the pupil, get it just right, and when the tip touches the model nothing happens because the paint already dried on your 000,
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Mar 16, 2019 20:31
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I said come in! posted:It sounds like you need to be more gentle with your brush strokes, and have less paint and water on them. You only really need a tiny amount of each on your brush. Oh I should've quoted the guy above who I was replying to my bad. Airbrushing can get pretty messy even on the best of days.
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Mar 16, 2019 20:36
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Oh I should've quoted the guy above who I was replying to my bad. Airbrushing can get pretty messy even on the best of days. You should get a spray booth
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Mar 16, 2019 20:42
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Oh I should've quoted the guy above who I was replying to my bad. Airbrushing can get pretty messy even on the best of days. Whoops!  Airbrushing is beyond my knowledge. I don't have an airbrush but really want one. Just haven't figured out yet what to buy.
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Mar 16, 2019 20:47
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Booley posted:You should get a spray booth I do just fine with kitchen roll 
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Mar 16, 2019 20:50
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I've been painting a lot of stuff lately that uses reds, gold, silver, and black. Keeping with tradition I ordered this https://www.miniaturemarket.com/cmnsif201.html A Song of Ice & Fire: Lannister Guardsmen 12 more figures, but will help get in the mood for the final season of Game of Thrones. 
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Mar 16, 2019 21:12
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Here's my first dudes I've painted. I think I'm done with them for now at least until I decide to do the bases. Need to get better at brushes and poo poo, but at least I finally got started on painting and am ready to move on to more dudes. Wouldn't mind a little cc on specific poo poo I very clearly need to work on. Doorknob Slobber fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Mar 16, 2019 22:18
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The Moon Monster posted:I lucked into a great airbrush cleaning method a few months back. Get a powerful spray bottle, like you would use to punish a cat, and add a little dish soap to it, like you would use to test a gas line connection. Then when you finish with a color 1) spray some water in the cup and dump it, 2) spray some water and then wipe it out, and 3) spray some water and then spray it out. Takes 30 seconds or so. I haven't had a single clog for months and the only disassembly cleaning I've done is occasionally removing the needle to wipe it off. How much detergent are you adding to the water?
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Mar 16, 2019 22:23
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I have a dilemma. I want to paint human skin (tones of a young Caucasian woman), but metal. It's for the Mechanical Rider for Malifaux and I wanna go for a "living metal" effect instead of actual human skin. How would you go about doing something like this?
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Mar 16, 2019 23:18
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Pierzak posted:I have a dilemma. I want to paint human skin (tones of a young Caucasian woman), but metal. It's for the Mechanical Rider for Malifaux and I wanna go for a "living metal" effect instead of actual human skin. How would you go about doing something like this? Either glazes over a silver base, or get some metal medium and mix with your skin tone.
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Mar 16, 2019 23:21
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One bit of advice if you decide to go the metal medium route is that it will lighten whichever paint you mix it with, so best to choose a tone that is one or two shades darker than what you want the finished skintone to be.
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Mar 16, 2019 23:33
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:How much detergent are you adding to the water? I never really measured it, just a quick squeeze. Enough that the water will form soap bubbles if you spray it on an improperly hooked up gas connection, since that's what I was using it for originally.
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Mar 16, 2019 23:47
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That Italian Guy posted:That's sweet! I'm sad the Ukranian bootleg site doesn't sell them anymore, that I'm aware of. I had a big list of things to buy, and they got the C&D so that the scam artists could do their lovely kickstarter.
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Mar 17, 2019 00:04
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Professor Shark posted:Those look amazing and I want to buy one. Do you just roll out the pattern on green stuff and then cut it out for the bases, or is it applied directly onto the bases? Thanks! For the left one, I put a drop of Aleene's Tacky Glue on the base, then a pea-sized ball of green stuff on there. Spread it evenly over the base with a smooth rolling pin, then roll over it with the texture rolling pin. I use a stack of index cards on either side of the base to make the rolling pins apply pressure evenly. Not sure if the glue is actually necessary or not, but it certainly doesn't hurt. The right one is actually Milliput, not green stuff. Though the reason it looks different around the edges is that it's 2-3x as thick, and that made it much harder to get a crisp edge. I bet if I used a thinner layer of milliput, that it would turn out basically identical. That being said, I'll probably stick with green stuff. It's a bit more expensive, but it's so much easier to work with.
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Mar 17, 2019 00:35
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So after a lull period, I started painting up a second batch of Stormcast in weathered bronze back in December. It's just primer, basecoat, two washes, and drybrush highlight, so it seemed like a decent way to get back into it, and making stormcast look like old statues amuses me for some reason. At the end of which, my $20 amazon lightbox showed up, so i thought i'd compare 'desk and painting lamp' against it. That was a good first month of painting to start the year off, a shame that it's somehow halfway through March. Still, I tried some more interesting poses and i feel like my control with the drybrush is better than it was. Ceebees fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Mar 22, 2019 |
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Mar 17, 2019 01:26
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Does anyone have any recommendations for temporarily gluing resin (and occasionally pewter) figures to their bases? I'm looking for something I can scrape off easily later on; I just want to put them on their bases for now so I can use them in games before I've gotten them painted up (shameful, I know). Inspired by the post above, I was thinking Aleene's Tacky Glue?
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Mar 17, 2019 03:51
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Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant!   
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Mar 17, 2019 04:58
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Duct Tape posted:Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant! Wow.  This has a really battle-worn look that makes me think of millennia old armor.
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Mar 17, 2019 05:04
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Duct Tape posted:Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant! Holy poo poo.
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Mar 17, 2019 05:45
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Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for temporarily gluing resin (and occasionally pewter) figures to their bases? I'm looking for something I can scrape off easily later on; I just want to put them on their bases for now so I can use them in games before I've gotten them painted up (shameful, I know). Inspired by the post above, I was thinking Aleene's Tacky Glue? Low temp hot glue, very small beads under the feet. You can pry the mini off without much force, but it will hold while you play. Just make sure it is LOW TEMP, otherwise you might melt part of the mini.
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Mar 17, 2019 05:59
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Hoyota posted:Low temp hot glue, very small beads under the feet. You can pry the mini off without much force, but it will hold while you play. I'll try it out on some scrap bits, but these are for Arena Rex, and their resin mix gets soft at much lower temperatures than other brands. One of the models' axe hafts managed to get bent out of shape just from the heat of some sun filtered through blinds, which is something I haven't experienced with any other brand. They also respond extremely quickly to heat from my heat gun, so hot glue might be too much... This is definitely a good idea to keep in mind for pewter stuff and other, more heat-resistant resin mixes though!
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Mar 17, 2019 06:08
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Duct Tape posted:Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant! Yeah that looks really really drat good. Looks nice and dirty, in a very natural way.
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Mar 17, 2019 06:37
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Duct Tape posted:Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant!
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Mar 17, 2019 06:47
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Finally got some time today to get started on the Blood Angel Tactical Marines I've been wanting to do for a few months now. Next to waiting for proper humidity to do spray-priming, having an opportunity to assemble minis is the biggest roadblock I've had in making progress.The problem is that I work out in the shed to glue them, since I'm using the Taminya Extra Thin, and I want to make sure I have proper ventilation so I don't ruin my lungs and/or brain. It's just been hard since I don't get a lot of time after work (it's either too dark, too cold, or I have other things to do). I've thought about maybe just buying some more super-glue so I can do things inside and make more progress. The issue I've had with the Tamiya is that I can't always tell if it's bonded properly or not. Sometimes I'll pick up an mini to do something with it and an arm or something will pop off. Sometimes I end up smearing some of it on another part of the mini and it mucks up the area (it makes it look sort of 'torn up''). I think something I heard was that you don't really glue the pieces on end to the other, but rather spread the glue in-and-around the seam where the two pieces meet. What I've started to do (based on a YouTube comment I read) is rough up the two points of contact when gluing something together. I took some high-grit sandpaper (I think like 320 grit) and sand the area that are going to be glued together. The justification I read was that it helps the glue bond better (I though it would just help give the pieces more friction) I know I'm just whining at this point, but I also have found that the most time consuming part is getting all the mold-lines/flash off. I try to be a thorough as I can, but there are some small areas and crevices where a file or Xacto knife can't just seem to clean properly. Duct Tape posted:Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant!  Wow, how'd you do that weathered effect?
Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Mar 17, 2019 |
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Mar 17, 2019 07:09
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Doorknob Slobber posted:Here's my first dudes I've painted. I think I'm done with them for now at least until I decide to do the bases. These guys looks like they have a solid clean base coat. To push them further you could try some edge high-lighting. A little runefang steel or other bright metal on the metallic bits and some medium grey for the black parts. I'm sure someone could recommend a good citadel or other paint color for edging black. Then pick out some high-lights on the faces, cheek, nose, brow with kislev flesh mixed with your base color and the skull mask with similarly with something like ushabti bone. If you don't have those colors and don't want to buy them mix your base brown color with a little bit of white and red for flesh highlight and base brown with a little bit of white and yellow for bone highlights. Then work the color up by sight. Max Wilco posted:The issue I've had with the Tamiya is that I can't always tell if it's bonded properly or not. Sometimes I'll pick up an mini to do something with it and an arm or something will pop off. Sometimes I end up smearing some of it on another part of the mini and it mucks up the area (it makes it look sort of 'torn up''). I think something I heard was that you don't really glue the pieces on end to the other, but rather spread the glue in-and-around the seam where the two pieces meet. 320 grit sandpaper with give you a pretty smooth surface, but it seems like your problem might have more to do with spreading around the glue. I don't use the tamiya glue but from what I understand you should be able to just touch the glue to the surface and it will be pulled into the join by capillary action. Also only using the glue in your shed may be a little unnecessary unless you have some specific health problems associated with it (and at that point you might want to stick to push fit models). Pretty sure most of the posters here will use the glue wherever they are doing their hobby stuff. I don't think using it briefly in your home is gonna do long term physical damage. Here an example of its use: https://youtu.be/RyVWsqp__pE?t=781 There is quite a bit of build and assembly stuff in that video you will probably find useful. Skails fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Mar 17, 2019 |
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Mar 17, 2019 15:48
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Duct Tape posted:Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant! That White Scar is seriously fed up with your bullshit.
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Mar 17, 2019 15:48
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Duct Tape posted:Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant! Dayyuuuuum. This doesn't read to me as marble so much as a marine in white armor who got separated from his company and has been fighting his way back to his unit for a millennia. Even more badass imo. Here's a test model I just finished for my seraphon army. I'm pretty happy with him but would love some feedback, especially on the color scheme. 
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Mar 17, 2019 16:27
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Started working on another mini from Stonehaven Miniatures, this time a monk I feel like the white is a little too bright and I'll probably have to go over it with a very careful wash to get it back to the kinda dingy, hermit look I had originally planned.
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Mar 17, 2019 17:12
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Thanks everyone! The technique I used to get that armor effect is really simple, you just need an airbrush and lightly loosened-up dryer sheet. Prime the surface black, then with the dryer sheet pressed against the mini, airbrush Korne Red. Repeat that for Skrag Brown, and then White Scar. Finish it by washing it with Nuln Oil. Done and done! I painted him in subassemblies, keeping his arms, head, and backpack separate. This way I was able to tightly wrap the dryer sheet around each piece, which gives it that long-aged-streaked-grit texture.
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Mar 17, 2019 19:10
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Duct Tape posted:Finished my first Space Marine today. The mini itself has been done for over a week, and I've just been waiting to do the base. Was damned fun to paint this guy, but airbrushing marble on such a tiny mini was tricky. Now I have to stop procrastinating and finish painting my Knight Gallant! I dunno, that's some large, out of scale, comic book-like weathering... But seriously, that looks beyond amazing!
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Mar 17, 2019 19:40
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Welp, I put the wash on and the orange toned down nicely but, I don't think Secret Weapon Armor Wash likes VGC Off-White because uuuhhhh Does that look salvageable, or should I just start over on the robes?
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Mar 17, 2019 20:09
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First squad of Necrons, up and running! These guys were a blast to paint, can't wait to throw more of their friends together. Had a lot of fun experimenting with the basing and glowing crystals, too! Pretty happy overall with how these all turned out~  
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Mar 17, 2019 21:58
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Cthulu Carl posted:Does that look salvageable, or should I just start over on the robes? Honestly, you should probably use more of a brown wash to get "dingy old robes", more of a Seraphim Sepia (or Agrax Earthshade, if you wanna go super old). It is definitely salvageable, but you gotta be careful with whites, and go for more recess washes rather than all-over washes to really get that worn look across. Hell, I'd even start with more of a beige or tan, then work your way up to that off-white, rather than start with it. Mikey Purp posted:Here's a test model I just finished for my seraphon army. I'm pretty happy with him but would love some feedback, especially on the color scheme. You could probably go a little higher with your highlights and a little darker with your shades, especially on the blue flesh. The natural light provides some contrast, but at that scale you want to exaggerate the features a bit. Outside of that, I'd also do some gap filling where the shoulder meets the body, as there appears to be a fairly obvious join there (to me). Outside of that, you should probably also add some visual excitement to the spear haft; a woodgrain, a highlight, something other than just having it straight brown the whole way. Loving the freehand on the shield, though.
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Mar 17, 2019 22:58
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Aniodia posted:Honestly, you should probably use more of a brown wash to get "dingy old robes", more of a Seraphim Sepia (or Agrax Earthshade, if you wanna go super old). It is definitely salvageable, but you gotta be careful with whites, and go for more recess washes rather than all-over washes to really get that worn look across. Hell, I'd even start with more of a beige or tan, then work your way up to that off-white, rather than start with it. What I did was VGC Bonewhite, then VGC Off White everywhere but the lowest, then a highlight of regular white. I think I'll redo the white with Bonewhite, Bonewhite/Off White, then a little hightlighting of Off White.... EDIT: The SW Armor wash just... Seemed to 'wake up' the Off White and in general acted VERY differently to how it acted with the other VGC and Reaper paints I was using. Odd because the oranges, browns, and greys were fresh on the model, but the Off White had been applied... Yesterday. 
Cthulu Carl fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Mar 17, 2019 |
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Mar 17, 2019 23:21
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