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Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


That’s why I’m thinking about buying Breeze; they came out well in the Project Farm video (though he had the ones with a plated screw; I’m looking at full-stainless).

https://youtu.be/jtMPq2lG-8U

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the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Advent Horizon posted:

I asked for pricing on the 100% stainless assortment, it’s the one in the upper right:



The price they gave me was $208.14, so basically $1 per clamp plus the display rack. I haven’t asked about shipping yet but I’m probably going to order and not worry about hose clamps for a long time.

Scratch that quote- what I found was the bottom left for $160 at amazon.

the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Aug 24, 2022

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Need some help thinking up a tool to do this. I'm sure something exists but not sure what to search for.

Previous owner of my bike dropped it on both sides, so the inner headlight bracket is bent inwards where the turn signals attach. This is also tweaking the alignment of the headlight bucket and stays.

Essentially I just need to spread these ears back into position. I feel like a mini-scissor jack would do it. Something along those lines. Or a threaded rod I can put in there then spread open by screwing/unscrewing. Any ideas?

I'd simply remove it to straighten or replace, but it's fixed between the upper and lower triple clamps and I really don't want to disassemble it to that extent for something like this.

opengl fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Aug 24, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

This is pretty much the kind of job a porta power is made for.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

That looks perfect but a little spendy for a one-off.

This might do it though with some careful shimming

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYJx04Vz_Nw

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


That looks like something a trigger clamp could work for. I have a few that came in a multi-pack from Home Depot and I’ve done similar stuff with them.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Medium-and-Large-Trigger-Clamp-4-Pack-DWHT83196/205086878

It goes on sale for $25 every now and again; they’re stupid handy.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Advent Horizon posted:

That looks like something a trigger clamp could work for. I have a few that came in a multi-pack from Home Depot and I’ve done similar stuff with them.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Medium-and-Large-Trigger-Clamp-4-Pack-DWHT83196/205086878

It goes on sale for $25 every now and again; they’re stupid handy.

Ooh didn't know you could convert those into a spreader. Would it have enough ooomph to spread metal you think?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Anchor it between to immovable objects with ratchet straps and ratchet away?

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

opengl128 posted:

Ooh didn't know you could convert those into a spreader. Would it have enough ooomph to spread metal you think?

Really depends. They're not the strongest type of clamp, but I've used one of the huge ones to repair reasonably stout patio furniture before.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


opengl128 posted:

Ooh didn't know you could convert those into a spreader. Would it have enough ooomph to spread metal you think?

Work the trigger with another clamp for mechanical advantage. Clamps all the way down.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Advent Horizon posted:

Work the trigger with another clamp for mechanical advantage. Clamps all the way down.

I've snapped a Jorgensen in half doing less.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

Safety Dance posted:

I've snapped a Jorgensen in half doing less.

Weird. I've done that numerous times with Irwin clamps that I'm sure aren't as nice.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I would use a few pieces of plywood shim stock to protect the paint and my largest pair of channel locks to do that, unless it's a lot stronger than it looks.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Cat Hatter posted:

Weird. I've done that numerous times with Irwin clamps that I'm sure aren't as nice.

I think it was a casting defect, if we're being honest.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Motronic posted:

But the screw is actually stainless and not just the band? Sounds like it from what you said, but I've had mixed results with "stainless" clamps and found some of them are just that lovely.

The Breeze models that WM stocks are all-stainless, they wouldn’t last a season otherwise. I can’t speak for the full lineup. I get wholesale pricing there so I don’t really bother shopping around they are good enough.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


I ordered the Durham 303B-15.75-95 large bearing slide rack + 4ea 26-compartment tray/drawers to organize the hardware I’m trying to keep stocked:



I’m really happy with the ball bearing slides. One local hardware store sells these in the non-bearing model and it sucks; this is totally different. The slides also have a ‘lock’ mode if you slide them in *all* the way (there’s a bump you’ll feel) that makes it hard to pull them back out - that’s how they shipped and I thought it was broken at first.

The trays are also nice, I would like the latch to be stronger but you probably shouldn’t carry these around by the handle anyway. The compartments are replaceable inserts with a bunch of different options including adjustable.

As far as shipping - did Amazon buy Durham or something? I bought this from Amazon, it says ‘sold by: Amazon ships from: Amazon’ on the page, the return address says ‘Amazon Fulfillment Services, but the address and shipment are direct from the factory in Connecticut.

A lot of reviews I found online said they had been damaged in shipping; it looks like Amazon has stepped up the boxing because it was done really well:



Now I just need a bunch more to organize everything I own.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That looks amazing and also like I'd bankrupt myself trying to get enough of them.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Cabinet + trays + hardware will be about a thousand dollars each.

I saw more than one person saying that it is expensive to get a hardware stock set up but worth it once you’ve gotten that far. I really hope so; I’m already using stuff from this collection.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

I've been watching local online auctions and even used good organizers are $$$.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Same and same, although used ones often come preloaded with goodies.

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003
Getting really interested in the quickjack system, but wondering if my short wheelbased, 35" tire'd lifted CJ7 would fit well on it
https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/7000tl/

any thoughts? I'd do the 7000# so i can fit my pickup on it unloaded.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Dacheat posted:

Getting really interested in the quickjack system, but wondering if my short wheelbased, 35" tire'd lifted CJ7 would fit well on it
https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/7000tl/

any thoughts? I'd do the 7000# so i can fit my pickup on it unloaded.

You have to start measuring. This is the problem with quickjacks. I have the smallest set so I can fit my 944 on it. It works fine for subies. You can even put full frame cars and truck on it because it doesn't matter where you're lifting from the frame for the most part. But unibody stuff that is larger? It may not have lift points close enough together to match up with where I can lift with the QJs and I would need the next length (read: weight in their terms) up. This is the case, annoyingly, with my Cayenne. But if I bought the next size up they literally wouldn't fit between the wheels of the 944, defeating the purpose I originally bought them for.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

I have the 5000lb quickjacks. My buddy has a now-lifted TJ. I was able to lift it with the jacks running lengthwise and the SUV height extenders. I lifted from the trailing arm brackets, the frame was too high up. It made it a little awkward to do suspension work, but most other stuff would be easy. I also did a SYE (keeping the tcase in place) and had decent room to work. For my bigger cars I do have the length extenders, the E39 is barely ok without them but the E38 iL needs them.

I have seen people using the quickjacks going sideways across the car, haven’t tried that yet.

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003

Big Taint posted:

I have the 5000lb quickjacks. My buddy has a now-lifted TJ. I was able to lift it with the jacks running lengthwise and the SUV height extenders. I lifted from the trailing arm brackets, the frame was too high up. It made it a little awkward to do suspension work, but most other stuff would be easy. I also did a SYE (keeping the tcase in place) and had decent room to work. For my bigger cars I do have the length extenders, the E39 is barely ok without them but the E38 iL needs them.

I have seen people using the quickjacks going sideways across the car, haven’t tried that yet.

I mean worse case i could always make longer extenders (i do have a lathe) I'm more concerned with being able to clear between the leaf springs.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Anyone see any Labor Day sales items worth looking at? I'm going to pick up a couple DeWalt batteries to go with a DCF891 (sadly not on sale) and a Harbor Freight 12k pound winch, they've got a 25% off a single item coupon if you have Inside Track membership and as far as I can tell it doesn't exclude winches/Badlands products.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

meatpimp posted:

That's a nice blower. Well worth hunting up a charger for it.

On that note, I've got an extra somewhere around here you can have, if you want.
Just want everyone to know contrary to popular opinion, Meatpimp is a solid dude :haw:

I just received a parcel at zero charge get it? I'm witty to me of a brand new battery charger.

Thanks my man!

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Any specific tools I should have for removing a wheel bearing Assembly ? I don't yet know if I need a specific tool, but I assume a prybar and a sledge, maybe some penetrator? Some never seize?

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Any specific tools I should have for removing a wheel bearing Assembly ? I don't yet know if I need a specific tool, but I assume a prybar and a sledge, maybe some penetrator? Some never seize?

That is going to heavily depend on the car in question :)

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

BlackMK4 posted:

That is going to heavily depend on the car in question :)

2010 nissan versa

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

GreenBuckanneer posted:

2010 nissan versa

https://youtu.be/MmibqXDFZOs

This should cover it. You will need access to a press to do it all, but shops (independents moreso) will do that much of the job for you sometimes.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Sep 8, 2022

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'm replacing the whole assembly, it's cheaper and doesn't require hydraulic press...

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I'm replacing the whole assembly, it's cheaper and doesn't require hydraulic press...

Ah, sure. In that case everything they use outside of the press and race removal tool. Nothing in your original post would be a bad idea either.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Any specific tools I should have for removing a wheel bearing Assembly ? I don't yet know if I need a specific tool, but I assume a prybar and a sledge, maybe some penetrator? Some never seize?

Anti sieze will be great for the next time you have to do it. Use it on almost everything all the time. Basically any suspension, brakes, rust magnet stuff. Don't for engine or transmission internals or where exact torque specs are important. Dry vs oiled vs anti sieze all give different forces for the same rotational torque.

Copper required for spark plugs and sensors. It's electrically conductive and that's important. I just use copper based on everything.

A fuckoff big breaker bar will come in handy if you don't have an impact.

Maybe a pickle fork for the ball joints? Idk versa suspension. Get replacement boots if you go that route, they'll probably tear.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


:eyepoop:

Is this a general thing you do for all spark plugs or do you have a very specific application where this is necessary? Because....like...no, don't do this in general.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

honda whisperer posted:


Copper required for spark plugs and sensors. It's electrically conductive and that's important. I just use copper based on everything.


Maybe a link will help, but the summary is antisieze has not been recommended for plugs since manufactures switched to nickel coatings.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/changing-spark-plugs-do-i-need-anti-seize.136126/

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Motronic posted:

:eyepoop:

Is this a general thing you do for all spark plugs or do you have a very specific application where this is necessary? Because....like...no, don't do this in general.

the spyder posted:

Maybe a link will help, but the summary is antisieze has not been recommended for plugs since manufactures switched to nickel coatings.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/changing-spark-plugs-do-i-need-anti-seize.136126/

In general. Note my original post specifying that copper is a must and that anti sieze will change torque values. Go off degrees rotation vs ft-lbs.

If it's a swap the plugs all the time modified car then nope but for your normal dd person they get so crusty before they come out again. Any plug removal issue is either pull the head(s) or do the lovely Ford pack the tap with grease clusterfuck.

A tiny dab will do you, don't paint the thing. Don't hit the ground strap with it. 50-100k later it'll come out like butter.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

slidebite posted:

Just want everyone to know contrary to popular opinion, Meatpimp is a solid dude :haw:

I just received a parcel at zero charge get it? I'm witty to me of a brand new battery charger.

Thanks my man!

Pls don't ruin my reputation.

Let us know how it works with a full charge!

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
For antiseize for rust-prone bits around the wheel hubs and suspension, I've been a convert to this specific brand. Of all the brands I've tried, it's been the longest lasting and easiest application.

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/anti-seize-thread-lubricant-13010-8-oz-bottle

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009



I've got no complaints.

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skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

honda whisperer posted:

Anti sieze will be great for the next time you have to do it. Use it on almost everything all the time. Basically any suspension, brakes, rust magnet stuff. Don't for engine or transmission internals or where exact torque specs are important. Dry vs oiled vs anti sieze all give different forces for the same rotational torque.

Another option that I like is the weakest possible (i.e. purple) loctite thread locker. It fills up the thread voids and doesn't significantly affect torque values. Just took apart a brake caliper bracket with hand tools in the rust belt that has seen 3 winters and 30k miles that I loctited in this manner.

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