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Somewhat Heroic posted:I'm currently in the thick of finally getting around to replacing my starter in the M3. What a total pain in the dick. I'm just trying to squeeze the fuel lines off of the fuel rail so I can get it off and the intake manifold off. I think once the IM is off it won't be too bad. The DIYs online for the S52 intake manifold removal are awful (or at least my google skills are lacking). I've worked on this drat thing more than I've driven it the last month. I've been knee-deep in E46 M3 for weeks now and have yet to be let down by the factory manual--looks like workshop-manuals has the E36 starter, may not need to pull the intake? http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_s...smissions_from/
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Dec 30, 2014 09:49
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You do not need to pull the intake for e36 or e46 starters. Well, I can't speak for the s54, but I have personally done starters on e30, e36 and e46 6 cylinders. On all cars you can feed the starter in through the bottom. It's not the easiest but I would do it 100x before doing another intake manifold removal, they are a pain in the dick. On the e46 you need to access the top bolt by removing the rain tray and use a torx wrench. For the e36 you need to undo the tranny mount and lower it down to get to the top bolt. The lower bolt is easy to get at in either car. If you have an unthreaded starter with the nuts you probably will need to pull the manifold or figure out a way to get a wrench in there and brace it. If you are going to pull the intake, do all the poo poo that is under there. Replace the pcv and all vacuum lines, clean the icv. I didn't do those when I installed my s50 manifold and regret it. Now I'm going to try doing them without removing the manifold.
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Dec 30, 2014 13:35
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I did the starter on my moms e46 M3 and I can confirm it was a pain in the dick. I think I used 3 socket extensions with two swivel joints to get one of the starter bolts. Also don't bitch until you have to pull the SMG Intake manifold. And yeah, pulled the intake to do the starter. I hadn't thought to try working it out from underneath. Question, how do you e46 people keep your floor mats is place? I assume they are all the same as the M3 with that stupid foam on the bottom. Sadi fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 14:08
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moloo posted:When I wiggled the passenger front hub (with the driver's front wheel on the ground) I could get maybe ~10-15mm of horizontal play. This has to be something in the steering, right? The tie rod looks fine and the tie rod end link is sound and tight. Also, the passenger side of the car in the front sits a bit higher than the driver side but the front strut seems to be fine. What else should I check? I'm going to guess you were wiggling the hub holding it front and back (horizontal). Front/Back points towards something steering related and if tie rods seem good it could be a rack I guess. Did you check to see if there was movement when wiggling top/bottom (vertical)? If the wheel bearing is shot you'll have play here but would also see it when checking for steering play. Another thing to check would be the hub/axle nut, if that backs off you get play. As for the height difference side to side check your spring to see if it's broken as well as the mounting points top and bottom for the strut.
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Dec 30, 2014 15:49
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Sadi posted:Question, how do you e46 people keep your floor mats is place? I assume they are all the same as the M3 with that stupid foam on the bottom. I assumed everyone used the little plastic pegs that lock into the floor?
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Dec 30, 2014 15:54
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Well, back with the "LOL E90 has electrical problems!" issue. After getting pretty much every electrical component replaced on my car under CPO after removing my JB4, I decided now was the time to reinstall it. I followed the instructions to a T again (I had no issues with the first installation), and the car would try to start, but never turn over. Frustrated, I decided to just remove the JB4 and hook everything back up as it was. Now the car still tries to start, but won't turn over. The dashboard lights up like a Christmas tree, and the wiper blades stay on. Is this caused by a simple wiring problem, and I just need to re-seat everything? Or did something go horribly/irreversibly wrong and I need to bite the bullet and take it somewhere? Last time it did this, the DME was the culprit, and the dealership replaced it and had to reprogram the car to accept it. I called asking if there was a warranty on the part(s), but they said if I take it in, they will run their diagnostics on it and test everything following their normal process, and will replace the part if and only if it is the culprit. This seems like a gamble since last time took them 4 weeks to figure out what was going on and would have costed over $10k. Summary of work done last time: quote:Customer reps veh will not start. Electrical malfunction. raej fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 30, 2014 17:34
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Cakefool posted:I assumed everyone used the little plastic pegs that lock into the floor? I contact-cemented the Velcro pad back onto the mat, that seems to be working ok.
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Dec 31, 2014 12:10
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So a buddy of mine has an E60 545i, I think an '05. Auto transmission. He posted this this morning:  It's finally cold here (10°F this morning) and that may be related. He says his power steering was out too (though only at the end of his trip), and his speedometer occasionally didn't work. I'm thinking (because of the power steering not working) it's the alternator belt. Thoughts?
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Dec 31, 2014 15:04
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CornHolio posted:So a buddy of mine has an E60 545i, I think an '05. Auto transmission.
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Dec 31, 2014 15:20
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I think my alternator went out a couple days ago. Trans warning came on and so did some other unrelated ones, like Engine Oil Level. Changed out the battery and still have a red battery icon. It was also much colder than normal...so could be the same sort of thing.
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Dec 31, 2014 15:22
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CornHolio posted:
I'd agree with that many faults at one time it's probably something electrical. Could just be a weak battery made weaker by the cold. Have him get it all checked out at the dealer or a shop with the right diagnostic equipment.
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Dec 31, 2014 15:23
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Somewhat related, did the N62 have a water-cooled alternator? Just curious because if it's alternator-related, that'll significantly up the repair cost.
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Dec 31, 2014 15:25
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Step 1 of any BMW electrical issue: if the battery is more than a couple years old, replace it. The electrical systems tend to be very sensitive to any sort of voltage or charging irregularity and will eagerly "preventatively" disable themselves. Right before the battery went out on my E46 it lit up the dash like a Christmas tree. A sudden cold snap could definitely degrade a battery enough to cause similar symptoms.
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Dec 31, 2014 16:27
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On my GTI when the battery got low it told me the power steering was out, the windows refused to one touch up and down and the radio forgot its presets a lot. Replace the battery.
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Dec 31, 2014 17:47
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Crustashio posted:You do not need to pull the intake for e36 or e46 starters. Well, I can't speak for the s54, but I have personally done starters on e30, e36 and e46 6 cylinders. Well I went the route of pulling my intake manifold. I do have the gaskets and stuff but didn't get the vacuum lines but they all look in good shape. I did destroy one of the green plastic tips on my front injector though  I am having a hell of a time getting at the bolts holding the starter in - either of them. Looking at it I am glad that I pulled the IM off. It seems like it will ultimate be a better removal of the starter itself.The top bolt is a total bastard. I have a swivel head ratchet and it is just barely too big with the socket to get on the bolt. I suppose that still wouldn't work as you need to have the space moving backwards as the bolt comes out anyhow. I will now to go dropping the trans to get at the bolts. Is it just as simple as removing that center brace (with a jack holding it in place obviously) and slowly lowering the engine? Edit: I've gotten the bottom bolt out. Only the top bolt remains between me and having the starter out. This job seriously blows. Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 20:20
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here is that E12 I was yammering on about.   The seller is asking 1400, I figure walk up and throw 1000 at them and see if they bite. I am more worried if this thing blows up on me is getting parts or if I can make a profit of the parts. I really do love the twin carbs, but that drat slush box is going to make a dog even doggier.
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Dec 31, 2014 20:38
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That's begging for a manual swap. Shouldn't the door handles be chrome? How much other fuckery is there...
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Dec 31, 2014 21:15
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EVERYWHERE 
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BrokenKnucklez posted:here is that E12 I was yammering on about. Do it, and then swap in a manual from the wrecker. What a cool little car.
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Dec 31, 2014 21:16
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So I have an opportunity to get a 07 335i coupe with the 6-speed manual 80,000 miles clean carfax and serviced regularly. Currently I have a 08 Mercedes C300 with the 6-speed manual. Is there anything I should be super aware of while looking at this thing or even owning it? I'm used to highs and lows of owning German cars, just which lows should I expect.
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Dec 31, 2014 22:19
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I need to stop looking at cars on craigslist. Can I get all your opinions on this pretty E30? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/4822136963.html   The car is non opped. Has anyone bought a non-op car before? Is it not worth the effort? I know I need a moving permit and insurance to even bring it 80 miles to my house. Ugh it's so pretty.  Shogunner fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 23:19
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odb1 on an m20? I doubt it
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Dec 31, 2014 23:26
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BrokenKnucklez posted:
Is this in the US? We didn't get carbed E12s here.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:51
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Yep. this is US. My guess is it came with fuel injection then it was swapped over at some point. Because I saw carbs.
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Dec 31, 2014 23:55
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Yep. this is US. My guess is it came with fuel injection then it was swapped over at some point. Because I saw carbs. Weird. I know the FI system wasn't great on the E12 but the usual remedy is to upgrade to motronic. It would be fun to go look at it just to ask about the carbs.
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Jan 1, 2015 00:04
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It threw me off as well. Part of the charm of buying this car though is the twin carbs. After I get home from my next trip I am going to throw an offer his way.
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Jan 1, 2015 00:06
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Going from non-op to op is going to the DMV and paying any back registration fines if there are any, the current owner might be like "i dunno, might be some, not sure" and then you find out you owe $1500 in back reg fees. Otherwise it's the same as everything else.
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Jan 1, 2015 00:29
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Beast of Bourbon posted:Going from non-op to op is going to the DMV and paying any back registration fines if there are any, the current owner might be like "i dunno, might be some, not sure" and then you find out you owe $1500 in back reg fees. Otherwise it's the same as everything else. You can check back fees online before buying. You just need last 5 of the vin and the license plate.
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Jan 1, 2015 01:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:It threw me off as well. Part of the charm of buying this car though is the twin carbs. After I get home from my next trip I am going to throw an offer his way. Twin Weber downdrafts and a slush box? Sounds like an invitation to snoresville to me. Seriously, the combo is terrible. Downdrafts do not have the charm, sound, and performance you usually get with sidedrafts and an inline 6. They were made for people with more money than sense, and wanted something that is "dependable", not fun.
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Jan 1, 2015 01:11
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mafoose posted:Seriously, the combo is terrible. Downdrafts do not have the charm, sound, and performance you usually get with sidedrafts and an inline 6. They were made for people with more money than sense, and wanted something that is "dependable", not fun. So, its a same-gen Toyota, then?
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Jan 1, 2015 01:13
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mafoose posted:Twin Weber downdrafts and a slush box? Sounds like an invitation to snoresville to me. I drive Rovers. Anything is faster than what I drive.
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Jan 1, 2015 01:18
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I drive Rovers. Anything is faster than what I drive. Have I told you about my Explorer yet? (May not make the 5 mention cutoffs today, Ozzy.  )
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Jan 1, 2015 01:20
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So ive been warming up my beater 5 every couple of weeks, letting it idle/blipping itfor about 20 minutes in my garage. Im sure the neighbors love it. So when cold, it idles OK around 600 rpm. But if I give it gas, it shudders and feels like its going to stall. It does this for a few minutes til it warms up, then it runs fine, revving cleanly with no issues and lots of cool souding monster sex noises. Ive seen a lot of theories online, vaccuum leaks, bad CCV, etc. a few guys on a bimmer forum said specifically their vaccuum leak was the intake manifold gaskets. This stuff sound like a good place to start looking?
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Jan 1, 2015 16:01
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^^Good luck with that. I just replaced all the vacuum lines with factory BMW parts, and new intake manifold, pcv cover, and TB gaskets, cleaned the ICV and it still runs a little funny during warmup. Not to the point of stalling, but you definitely feel the difference, especially in 1st gear. I'm thinking MAF or some sort of temp sensor. E-fan helped with warmup time immensely. Also the best way yo warmup the car is to drive it. Just keep the revs down.
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Jan 1, 2015 16:59
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Yeah its ok to putter around with for the first couple of minutes, and I dont really mind letting it warm up a minute before putting the boots to it, but if there is an easy* fix Ill try it. Ive cleaned the ICV and MAF, but havent cracked anything from the throttle body back on the intake side yet. These cars are notorious for idling weird so Im not going to chase the dragon too far. Too many other things to address * 
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Jan 1, 2015 17:16
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E46 guys - what are you running for suspension? Pretty sure water is getting into the bilstein PSS struts on my 330 and basically making the car undriveable if it's below freezing. I've been looking at one of the H&R cup kits since the PSS springs won't work with OEM style struts. Car is a daily driver only.
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Jan 3, 2015 18:27
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Kw v3s. They are really good. If budget is big get nitrons.
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Jan 3, 2015 18:57
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I have Koni FSDs on stock springs. I needed a refresh and they are good and cheap, a little improvement over OEM (huge improvement over 80k old OEM). Still daily driver comfy, and lowered the car maybe .5".
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Jan 3, 2015 20:05
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Crustashio posted:E46 guys - what are you running for suspension? Pretty sure water is getting into the bilstein PSS struts on my 330 and basically making the car undriveable if it's below freezing. I've been looking at one of the H&R cup kits since the PSS springs won't work with OEM style struts. Car is a daily driver only. I'm about to refresh this spring with Koni FSDs and stock sport springs. It's supposed to be a good balance of daily driver comfort and really good handling in the corners when you get more aggressive.
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Jan 3, 2015 20:08
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Put the 545i short shifter kit in my e39 525i. Do this now if you haven't.
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Jan 3, 2015 23:50
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Getting close to having the E36 shitpile driving but am having a hard time bleeding the clutch. I have used a DIY pressure bleed but when I had the car running on jack stands the rear wheels started turning when I went to select a gear (clutch pedal depressed) the wheels started turning. Then I tried a gravity bleed but the pedal feels the same. When I was doing the gravity bleeding I did not see any bubbles, but I didn't wait too long (maybe a couple ounces of fluid came out). How long should it take?
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Jan 4, 2015 00:33
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