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grover posted:Only gfcis are allowed in bathrooms. They are not only allowed in bathrooms. Right. That just sounds like a semantics problem with the placement of "only". GFCIs are required in bathrooms, unfinished basements, garages, outside, and within 6 feet of any sink. They're a good idea anywhere else that water is involved nearby.
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Sep 12, 2012 20:22
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Which remind me, my guest bathroom has two outlets above the dual sinks and they don't look like GFCI outlets. Should I replace them? I think the inspector missed them on his report when we bought the house last year.
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Sep 12, 2012 22:37
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They could be protected by another outlet, or at the breaker box. You can get a GFCI tester at home depot or lowes for like $3. You plug it in, press the test button, and it'll either trip or not. Here's one, although you can absolutely get them cheaper: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202867890/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=gfci+tester&storeId=10051 imho, a tester like that is something everyone should bring with when home shopping. Also reveals outlets that appear to have a ground but don't, or are just straight up wired wrong. Heaven knows I found a lot of both when I was looking. :/
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Sep 12, 2012 22:39
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I would like to replace an old circuit in my breaker box (was previously for an electric dryer). I ripped out the three wires (two hot and one neutral). Here is what my breaker box looks like:  The old circuit that I took out is in orange, and I'm hoping to get some feedback on what I'm thinking. I have a few wiring books, but I basically am just looking for some validation. The new outlet I want to wire is for my utility room, and I want to put a router and my cable modem there. I have a bunch (300+ ft worth) of NM 14-2 cable w/ground, and I'd like to use that here. I plan on buying two of these to replace what's highlighted. I'm only planning on using one of the 15 amp poles for the new outlet, and leave the other three 15 amp poles empty (maybe for the future). Am I correct in that I can just drop in NM wire, run it under my house via the crawlspace (stapling it every 18 inches), without conduit? Also the hot gets wired to the breaker, the neutral to the bus bar (on the left), but what do I do with the ground wire? Just cut it off? The wire was purchased for a bathroom remodel which is why it comes with ground.
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Sep 15, 2012 23:53
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Running cable perpendicular to joists, you're supposed to use running boards or bored holes (but many people don't if it's not being inspected) At your main panel, neutral and ground are bonded, so wire the ground wire to the neutral bar. Several grounds can go under one screw but neutrals are limited to one per screw. You should be able to find Murray breakers at your home center
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Sep 16, 2012 04:34
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dwoloz posted:You should be able to find Murray breakers at your home center So, in short, before you go shopping, jot down what all breaker types are compatible with your panel (will be on the label inside the door) and make sure you get one of those. grover fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 11:46
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So I just hooked up the new outlet, and it works fine (even passed the outlet tester). My lights have started to flicker again though  I don't know what's going on. I've had this issue ever since moving into this house, and it was gone for about a year now, but after I messed with the panel, lights are flickering again, especially when using the microwave. The flickering happens on several different circuits. I'm going to double-check all of the connections in the panel again in the morning. I didn't mess with the other circuits though, so I have no idea what I could have done to cause the issue to come back..
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Sep 18, 2012 03:43
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Bank posted:So I just hooked up the new outlet, and it works fine (even passed the outlet tester). My lights have started to flicker again though
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Sep 18, 2012 10:54
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grover posted:Torque down all the neutrals in the panel, especially the main bond. A loose neutral can cause all sorts of issues. If you can do so safely, check to make sure the main hots from the street are in tightly as well- be very aware that they're always hot and there's no breaker upstream to trip if there's a short circuit. This, and if you still have problems, call the power company. Their neutral might be loose/missing/damaged at the transformer.
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Sep 18, 2012 11:57
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This is probably a dumb questions, but here goes. My house was completely re-wired just before I bought it, but the unfinished basement was only done with a single outlet for the washer/dryer. There are 6 overhead lights, though. What I'd like to do is tap off of one of those overhead lights and install an outlet in the ceiling/rafters, where I can plug in my cable modem, router/switch, and a small media server (they'd all be mounted in the rafters down there so they're out of the way). Is this legal? Is it something I need to get a permit for?
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Sep 18, 2012 19:44
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Regarding the flickering lights. I double-checked the neutral connections and even pulled some wire back for one of the neutrals because it was visibly corroded (the panel is outside of the house). I did notice one of the breakers had some corrosion on the mounting point. Though probably cosmetic, I replaced it with a spare breaker I had lying around. You can see it on the bottom here (brown spot): The kitchen circuit (that I just replaced the breaker for) seems to be doing ok now. Last night when I turned on the microwave for 30 seconds, the kitchen light would flicker once or twice, but after I replaced the breaker and pulled the neutral wire back a bit that problem seems to have disappeared. Not sure if it's truly fixed, but I'll keep an eye on it for the next couple of days. One of three of my bedrooms seems to flicker still (the other two are fine), so I'm going to track down which breaker it's connected to and just replace it. Since my panel is outside, and I live in the fogbank, it's possible that the breakers are just worn out due to moisture, correct?
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Sep 18, 2012 21:10
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dur posted:This is probably a dumb questions, but here goes. My house was completely re-wired just before I bought it, but the unfinished basement was only done with a single outlet for the washer/dryer. There are 6 overhead lights, though.  , rafters are part of roof support.It's code legal, just use a GFCI receptacle since it's in an unfinished basement. Still, mounting any receptacle that faces downward is a bad idea. Wallwarts (like for your cable modem, router and switch) can just plain fall out of the outlet when they point straight down. Maybe mount its box so it faces straight out from a joist? As for if you need a permit or not, that depends entirely on your local government.
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Sep 18, 2012 22:14
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kid sinister posted:joists
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Sep 18, 2012 22:47
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grover posted:Also, his router and cable modem will turn off when he turns off the lights, which probably isn't desirable. Hahaha I can't believe I didn't realize that. 
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Sep 19, 2012 02:05
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That would have made for a great series of followup posts in SH/SC's Haus of Tech Support.
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Sep 19, 2012 02:12
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grover posted:Also, his router and cable modem will turn off when he turns off the lights, which probably isn't desirable. Its possible the lights are wired with the power source coming in to them and could be used for this purpose...but that's probably not the case
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Sep 19, 2012 03:24
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grover posted:Also, his router and cable modem will turn off when he turns off the lights, which probably isn't desirable. Wow, I can't believe I forgot about that... I figured that his basement lights were all pullchains like mine.
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Sep 20, 2012 01:01
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kid sinister posted:joists Mounting receptacles facing downward is incredibly common, it's basically standard practice for nearly all ceiling-mounted projectors and is also occasionally used for things like wireless access points (yesterday I even saw abandoned downward-facing outlets that had been used for plug-in exit signs at the headquarters of a certain insanely successful tech company before they installed their current LED signs). If you're really worried about the cord falling out you can just put in a j-hook and drape it across.
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Sep 20, 2012 06:13
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dur posted:Hahaha I can't believe I didn't realize that.  Incidentally, tapping off porch lights is completely legal (if done properly & with a GFCI and bubble cover) and works great for christmas lights. What you *may* be able to do, though, is tap off that circuit on the line side of the light switch and fish a cable up to a receptacle mounted near or on the ceiling. There's nothing wrong with an outlet upside-down on a ceiling; it's standard for garage door opener receptacles, for one. It does limit practical ability to directly plug in heavy wall-warts, but you can fix that with a $5 power strip. If you can, better to have it on the wall, though. If this is a dedicated receptacle and inaccessible to use for more general garage stuff, it does not have to be GFCI protected, but I still recommend you use GFCI because there's gonna come a time where you need to plug in a weedwhacker or something into it, and you want to be protected. grover fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Sep 20, 2012 |
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Sep 20, 2012 10:43
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Papercut posted:Mounting receptacles facing downward is incredibly common, it's basically standard practice for nearly all ceiling-mounted projectors and is also occasionally used for things like wireless access points (yesterday I even saw abandoned downward-facing outlets that had been used for plug-in exit signs at the headquarters of a certain insanely successful tech company before they installed their current LED signs). If you're really worried about the cord falling out you can just put in a j-hook and drape it across. Yeah, I guess stuff with internal power supplies like projectors and garage door openers are fine. I just have memories of 5 pound wallwarts...
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Sep 20, 2012 18:07
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Just to follow-up on my house's flickering light issue. I called my utility company again after re-checking the wiring, and I finally got someone that figured it out. He said the neutrals were fine, but when he pulled the meter out he was able to pull the main breaker and noticed some burning on it. He recommended replacing the breaker and moving it a slot down to avoid the poor contact. I'm going to install it on Monday to see if that fixes it. I'll have to call them again to disconnect the weatherhead so I don't kill myself.
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Sep 22, 2012 23:09
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So I just moved into a rental house (built in the 80s and recently renovated) and I am having issues with our 240v receptacle for the dryer. I thought we had messed the dryer up while moving it but had an appliance repairman come by to check it. He said everything checked out okay on the dryer, but we needed to have an electrician come inspect the 240 outlet. Here is what is happening: At the outlet I measured 98 and 93 from each leg to ground, but 240 across. When the dryer is plugged in (the plug backed out a tad) I read the same thing if it is in the OFF position on the mode select. If it is on any on setting, then the left leg reads 248 to ground while the left reads some tiny mV. At first I thought something was shorting out in the dryer, but I am not sure. So I decided to check the voltage out on each leg at the breaker that was a perfect 120 as expected. Then I went up to the attic to chase wires and saw a few fishy things. The two 120 lines go to a plastic gangbox with a front plate in the attic, which isn't mounted, then out of the other side is the 3-wire non-metallic cable that goes to the other side of the house. Near the drop is a splice where it has been electrical taped back together; I was later told that the previous tenants stole the wires to this and the AC unit to sell it for copper. So I contacted the owner of the house who said he wanted to look at it. He came by with a non-contact voltage tester and said it was good cause it had "juice" there. So I pulled out my multimeter to show him the readings. He told me that he would send someone over the next day to look at it, but I received a call saying he went in the attic and "tightened" some wires and he wanted me to check it again. I still received the same readings and then he told me he was going to think about it then call me back. Last Friday he emails me saying that he is going to stop by Tuesday and wants me to leave my multimeter out so he can use it. He also mentions saying he wants to check my dryer if its good also. I'm not sure if I feel comfortable with the owner, who doesn't have his own tools, trying to jury rig electric in the attic. While in the attic I noticed a lot of things that I would say don't look safe so I assume its an electrician's nightmare. I don't really know what I should do as I feel the owner doesn't want to hire an electrician but this needs to be fixed. Any ideas why the voltage would be reading wrong at the outlet? I've asked some family and coworkers and was told to check for crossed wires or loose connections. I don't remember seeing anything tapped off of the line that goes to the dryer, just the gangbox and electrical tapped parts. I would prefer an electrician come but I get the feeling that may not happen unless I pay one myself. Edit: I also took the back of the dryer off and checked the fuses, resistors, and did a continuity test. Thankfully a schematic was glued to the inside of the back panel. SPACE HOMOS fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Sep 24, 2012 |
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Sep 24, 2012 17:32
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SPACE HOMOS posted:My landlord's an rear end in a top hat. Sounds like the "hot" conductors are intact but you may have a bad connection or splice on the ground/neutral wire somewhere. Try checking voltage from the hot legs of the receptacle to a metal water pipe. If you get 120 there but not to the ground/neutral of the receptacle then it is most likely a bad ground/neutral wire between the receptacle and the panel. That's as far as a tenant should probably go to troubleshoot this one, even though it sounds like you got your stuff together. It is definitely a landlord's responsibility to provide a safe environment for you to live in and it sounds like an electrician definitely needs to look at this. Depending on your location, the dryer may be required to be fed by a four-wire rather than a three-wire circuit so if the existing wiring is unrepairable, the circuit may have to be replaced entirely.
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Sep 24, 2012 19:53
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FCKGW posted:I don't know anything about electrical work, but my friend on facebook is boasting about his handywork and cost savings on Facebook. Does anything he's doing look right or am I expecting and update from the ICU shortly? quote:My circuit breaker tripped two consecutive days. If it trips again tonight I won't be able to go to work...
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Sep 25, 2012 22:11
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I'm surprised he didn't swap the circuit breaker for a 30a and burn down his house
dwoloz fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Sep 26, 2012 |
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Sep 26, 2012 02:21
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ncumbered_by_idgits posted:Sounds like the "hot" conductors are intact but you may have a bad connection or splice on the ground/neutral wire somewhere. Try checking voltage from the hot legs of the receptacle to a metal water pipe. If you get 120 there but not to the ground/neutral of the receptacle then it is most likely a bad ground/neutral wire between the receptacle and the panel. The landlord sent out their hired help to check the outlet with a light tester again. He said the face plate needs to be replaced but if I use my multimeter I get readings just fine (note: the incorrect 98/94 readings). I did check the two 120v sides with a metal pipe and got correct readings, thanks for the advice. SPACE HOMOS fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Sep 26, 2012 |
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Sep 26, 2012 16:07
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SPACE HOMOS posted:The landlord sent out their hired help to check the outlet with a light tester again. He said the face plate needs to be replaced but if I use my multimeter I get readings just fine (note: the incorrect 98/94 readings). I did check the two 120v sides with a metal pipe and got correct readings, thanks for the advice. If the voltage is correct to the metal water pipe but not to the third stab of the receptacle then you definitely have a compromised conductor somewhere. You should put your complaint in writing so if something happens, you have something to fall back on. I once negotiated a deal with a landlord where I had a HVAC come check something out. If I was wrong and he found nothing, I agreed to pay. If he found something, the landlord paid for both the service call and the repair. Did you check the connections on the back of the receptacle?
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Sep 26, 2012 17:19
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I had taken the receptacle off last week and cleaned off the paint that was on it. I don't remember if I had checked the actual wires back there or just verified that it was installed correctly. I was reading about tenant rights and plan on sending a formal notice so I can hopefully get something done. As this issue isn't a necessity then I have no real legal backing. Should I also take pictures of the wire in the attic at the electrical tapped and gangbox areas?
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Sep 26, 2012 18:19
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SPACE HOMOS posted:Should I also take pictures of the wire in the attic at the electrical tapped and gangbox areas?
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Sep 26, 2012 18:28
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SPACE HOMOS posted:I had taken the receptacle off last week and cleaned off the paint that was on it. I don't remember if I had checked the actual wires back there or just verified that it was installed correctly. I was reading about tenant rights and plan on sending a formal notice so I can hopefully get something done. As this issue isn't a necessity then I have no real legal backing. Should I also take pictures of the wire in the attic at the electrical tapped and gangbox areas? Yeah, and you might want to redact the parts of your information that mention where you tinkered around with anything. 
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Sep 26, 2012 18:55
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When replacing breakers, do I need to add any dielectric grease or anything like that? I see some on my existing breakers when the electrician came out last time, but not sure if I need it now as I can't find much information on using it.
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Sep 26, 2012 23:33
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are you talking about on the terminal? you only need de-oxidizing grease on aluminum conductors not on copper. so if the wire is aluminum, yes.
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Sep 27, 2012 01:57
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Behind the breakers where it connects to the panel is where I'm seeing some blue grease -- no idea what it is exactly or if I need it. I don't think the.wiring needs it as all my wiring is copper based.
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Sep 27, 2012 03:08
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i know a lot of new breakers come with a dab of grease on them from the factory but i've never heard of anyone applying it themselves. maybe it's common practice to add some where you're from? it's not code, though, so i wouldn't worry about it.
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Sep 27, 2012 04:03
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I figured as such -- thanks!
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Sep 27, 2012 05:46
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Anyone have recent experience with the track lighting from Home Depot? I put some up tonight in the kitchen with the hope of having a 90deg bend to bring it over the counter "L". The main segment powers lights, but the bend doesn't. I made sure the ground rail is on the correct side of the bend (inside corner) but no luck. Touching the track with a voltage tester it's beeping but clipping a light in there does nothing. I'm going to pop the segment off tomorrow to take another look but it's late tonight and I'm tired from doing all sorts of crap today. This is the 110V (GU10) style track lighting.
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Oct 1, 2012 05:46
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Did you already do the basic troubleshooting stuff like taking a light that you know works and try putting it in the problem track section?
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Oct 1, 2012 16:35
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How would I go about joining 10/3 romex to 10/3 UF in an indoors electrical box? I can't find any type of box connections for the UF.
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Oct 1, 2012 17:19
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kid sinister posted:Did you already do the basic troubleshooting stuff like taking a light that you know works and try putting it in the problem track section? Yep, it works fine on the original section then nada on the extension. I figure there's something with the contacts in the 90deg not being all lined up, I'll fiddle around with it a bit tonight. Otherwise that extra segment is going back to the store and gently caress it, I'm good with what I've got.
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Oct 1, 2012 19:32
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priznat posted:Yep, it works fine on the original section then nada on the extension.
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Oct 1, 2012 19:42
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