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get out posted:Is there a video I can watch somewhere of this technique? I'm having trouble picturing it and I want to do it right. Try this one on for size: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NHqAW66-gE It's not really capturing, but luring.
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Jan 21, 2012 23:24
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How important is a classroom setting? I went and audited an intermediate class today and it was quite good. The problem is they're already things that penny knows. Granted she needs work on them but she does know those behaviors. The school typically puts you in a beginner class first to make sure you know their terminology. The girl I talked to today said we might be able to do a half hour private lesson then start an intermediate class. I just wonder if it's better for me to join a class with penny or just keep training her at home and the park.
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Jan 22, 2012 00:47
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a life less posted:Again, very helpful. I should mention that I don't think she really treats him anymore when saying off (or hasn't in a long time that I've seen) I hadn't really been treating him anymore for it either, due to him almost wanting to jump to get treated. With no treats, won't it eventually become white noise against the capturing of other behaviors? And I'm definitely going to mention that we encourage his sitting when people come/go/excitable moments - so the dog has something to replace the jumping with.
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Jan 22, 2012 01:03
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Hdip posted:How important is a classroom setting? I went and audited an intermediate class today and it was quite good. The problem is they're already things that penny knows. Granted she needs work on them but she does know those behaviors. The school typically puts you in a beginner class first to make sure you know their terminology. The girl I talked to today said we might be able to do a half hour private lesson then start an intermediate class. Attending a class taught by a professional is as much to teach you the intricacies of training as it is to teach your dog specific behaviors. So while it's very possible to self-teach yourself how to train your dog (and there are a variety of methods that work), taking a class can take it to a different level. It's just like taking a class on your favorite topic...you could just read about it, but having a professor and going through exercises is a different experience. Additionally, it provides a chance for you to proof your dog's behaviors in a situation that you might not otherwise have (lots of semi-controlled distractions). I would keep at them to let you into the intermediate class if you feel both you and Penny are at that level. If they are good trainers, they will put you in the class you will most benefit from.
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Jan 22, 2012 01:21
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We've found and introduced a dog that Ephy gets along with, although she can play too rough this dog is great at signaling when she wants to be left alone. I'm hoping gradual socialization will help her build self-control and understanding of other dog's boundaries. The sessions are highly monitored (three people, two dogs). Also, I'm hopeful that doing obedience training with the other dog present will help her with other distracting environments over time. This is basically how puppy classes are, right? You start out with high levels of distractions and work up to them focusing on you when you ask, even though the dog is surrounded by potential playmates. Any other tips on socializing an adult dog? To explain, she isn't agressive, or possessive of people, toys or food. She will happily let another dog take her favorite toy and destroy it in front of her, because she's just thrilled to be around other dogs and wants to play with them. It's a bit tougher since she's about 100lbs and tends to just be physically intimidating to most pups. Our reactions so far to her being annoying to her playmate is to call her over to us and ask her to sit with us until she calms down a bit. Does this sound appropriate? I've been looking into certified behaviorists and would love to find one, but the closest is over an hour and a half away.  She's amazing at home, and pretty good on walks, but I'd love to get that extra help on her lack of socialization. The few problems we have on walks I also think are related to her over-excitedness and low threshold but we've made amazing progress in the last year. Since I've already posted a novel, I just want to brag that I'm working on her core strength for a "beg" behavior. She can hold herself up for nearly 3 seconds now!! Also, I'm on day three of Dremel desensitization. She's got black nails and I once clipped her quick so I've been trucking over to a groomer. But! Since this thread has taught me the glories of desensitization, she's already lying back calmly while I touch her toes with the Dremel, and doesn't even lift her head when I turn it on. My puppy is my favorite puppy  Have a picture of her with a cow leg, our amazing lure for "beg". 
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Jan 22, 2012 07:12
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a life less posted:That could be your problem. I think you'd probably be best doing desensitisation sessions for 30 secs max. One minute + would probably put just about any dog into overload. Yeah I'm used to Lola being able to work for half an hour or so around people without reacting these days, I forgot your supposed to keep sessions super short  I put her in an adjoining room yesterday and closed the door while I vacuumed. The door has frosted glass at the top so I could see her without being seen, and I checked a few times. She mostly just sat on the armchair and stared - no pacing or trembling (that I could see). She even played with Jess a little. So for nowww when I have to vacuum, she'll have to go into the front room. Do you think it'd also be worth it giving her a kong with some peanut butter or dog food roll in when she goes in the front room, to help associate vacuum = yum? In the meantime I'll go back to basics on desensitising her. Thanks!
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Jan 22, 2012 09:40
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So I had my first two 1x1 lessons for my leash reactive class and I think I'm in love! It's actually been 2 2x1 lessons, I had 2 trainers just for me/myself! First visit they came to our place and asked a lot of questions, what we've tried, how she is in different situations, etc etc, they spent a good 1.5 hours at our house explaining what we'll do and what we can expect, what we feed her and when/how and what we should do until the next lesson. Was told to not feed on a schedule anymore, mix it up, feed her in different places at different times, from a bowl and from a toy, to teach her that she can't expect X at a certain time all the time, it's supposed to help her cope with frustration. 2nd lesson was at their facility, was told to bring super yummy treats and the very first thing they let Sparky do was just to let her off leash and tear rear end around the facility, sniff, go outside in the little yards, come back inside, explore, just get familiar with everything. I thought that was so cool! They explained the "look at that" game, and then they started whipping out dogs for us to see her reaction/etc, the dogs just kept coming, they seriously had like 6 different dogs come out for us while we played the look at that game and kinda figured out how wide her bubble is and how it changes when we're walking around the dogs. Then we went outside and they actually set up our most difficult situation for Sparky and me, a fence with barking dogs and we did the same exercise near the fence again, making sure we didn't get close enough to make her flip out, but again, I felt very comfortable, the 2 trainers were always there and helping me through the situation and advising. They also fitted us for an easy walk harness and I'll give that a try as well. Then we did what they called "Stationing" work, gently tie up the dog on something sturdy with a 3-4ft leash and just wait (never leaving the dog unattended) until the dog lays down. Then after a few seconds at first, let her go, not making a fuss, and increase the time spent laying down further and further every day as the dog gets comfortable self soothing by laying down. But we weren't done yet, we also did the protocol of relaxation and I got handouts for each of the exercises we did and a huge handout about pet food and why feeding good food is important (we already do, so it was kinda moot but interesting), and was explained what we'll do in the group lessons that are coming up. I'm so excited to be doing this with my dog and I have high hopes that all the practice will help us tremendously with her reactivity. Best of all is that they said that she walks really well on the leash and while reactive, isn't over the top, so we might be good candidates for something like a rally obedience class, which I'd love to do  Anyways, just had to let somebody know about this, none of my friends are this much into dog/dog training and I knew you guys would understand!
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Jan 23, 2012 00:20
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Update on my now crazy dog: I've been off from work the past two days and have played with him nearly constantly. Plenty of outdoor running, lots of work on sit and down and proofing them. He's getting really good at waiting to be let outside. Tonight, he has gone insane. He's biting me, trying to play - but loving hard. I'm trying to type poo poo on my computer and he won't stop jumping and biting me. I get up and he tears at my pants legs. I ignore him and he bites harder. Umm... how do I positively reinforce this (Or use positive reinforcement to loving avoid this poo poo)? (Girlfriend thinks I'm crazy for not saying anything to him.)
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Jan 23, 2012 06:07
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Try leaving the room, shut the door behind you, and remove yourself from "funtime" entirely. It worked really well for Dex.
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Jan 23, 2012 11:36
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Silver Nitrate posted:Try leaving the room, shut the door behind you, and remove yourself from "funtime" entirely. It worked really well for Dex. I walk my dog into the bathroom and close the door. She sits there waiting for me. When I come back in (no more than 2 or 3 minutes. If I've even gone that long) I pet her softly and say "Calm down. It's okay. Relax" Now it's to the point where I can mostly just say those words and she at least tries to settle down.
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Jan 23, 2012 13:14
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Bathroom time-outs are what worked for us. I also used to play games a lot where my dog could earn treats by laying down quietly by my computer chair. I would wait for her to lay down (or cue it at first) and then throw a treat so she would reset and have to come lay down again. It's a positive way of teaching your dog what he should be doing while you're at your desk (or the dinner table or whatever). You can even train a specific spot like a doggie bed or mat, if you want.
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Jan 23, 2012 13:56
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I don't know if this is possible to train, but is there a way to get pup to sleep longer in the morning/be quiet in his crate after his pee? Generally he is waking up between 6am and 6:40am, every day. He starts whining and this gets louder until I wake up and take him out to do his business, which is great. However, when I come back inside, if I put him in his crate and go back to bed he goes insane, jumping at the sides of the crate/howling/whining like mad. If I leave the crate open and just close over the baby gate to the kitchen he will just jump at the baby gate and do the same, or sit by it and howl/whine until someone gets up. If I go into the living room with him and i lie on the couch for a while, he will just play happily or lie next to me and chew his toy. Even taking him up to the room with me, he will just lie under the bed and chew the carpet, so nothing involves me getting any extra sleep. I'm not the kind of person who can just go back to sleep and ignore the noise, unlike my SO who will just sleep through it. So, as you would expect, I am beginning to feel quite sleep deprived, and am exhausted all the time which means I don't have as much energy for as much fun times at night with Campbell. I should also say that if my SO gets up and sits with him he will also whine by the gate, and wont be quiet until I am with him. So it's not that he wants company, its that he wants MY company! If you have any advice or help for this it would be awesome. Is it just something he will grow out of? As he gets older will he sleep in longer? Or is this a life long situation? He is 5 and a half months now, so if it's just a puppy thing I will accept it happily!
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Jan 23, 2012 14:52
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tiddlez posted:I don't know if this is possible to train, but is there a way to get pup to sleep longer in the morning/be quiet in his crate after his pee? I posted about this exact thing a few pages back and no one gave any info (except one Euro who doesn't crate at all) so hopefully you get some advice. What time do you get up in the morning? We were letting our dog out of the crate at the same time (anywhere between 5:30 and 6:45, but usually around 6:30), then bringing him back inside and plopping him on the bed with us while we hit snooze until about 7:30. If we put him back in his crate after he went out, he couldn't settle down again, so we put him on the bed with us. Eventually I decided I'd rather just let him out of his crate at 7 and get up for good (and also we moved to a house where it didn't matter to neighbors if he barked, which is why we started letting him out so early in the first place), but he'd bark like mad between the time he woke up and 7am. We've been trying a bunch of different things and what seems to have worked for us (for the past few days at least, hopefully it sticks) is to put a blanket over his crate AND put his dog bed inside his crate. he had some blankets in there but the bed seems to keep him comfy enough to stay quiet until 7am.
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Jan 23, 2012 16:19
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Plus_Infinity posted:I posted about this exact thing a few pages back and no one gave any info (except one Euro who doesn't crate at all) so hopefully you get some advice. I still have a suggestion for tiddlez as the puppy is so young, he might actually need to get out. This is not a fun suggestion, but it's worth a shot. Get up mid-sleep, take the puppy out at 3-4 AM, hope he goes back to sleep, so you can go back to sleep, too, and ignore at 6-6.30 as you'll know for sure there's no need to take him out. Most 5,5 month old puppies are well able to hold for 7-8hrs at night time in a crate. And I would try to work up to that asap. But to break the current routine two-three nights of waking up in the middle of the night for a potty break could do the trick.
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Jan 23, 2012 17:07
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Update on Corbin. We went to a behaviorist on Friday. They did a small evaluation basically going on what I'd mentioned (reactivity, possible small dog aggression, nervous around people) and they found two things. One is that Corbin has an extremely high prey drive, but only towards small furry things - cats, small dogs, etc. My guess was mostly correct. Apparently he just doesn't know the difference between small dog and squirrel until he's up close, and even then he's still unsure, so it's just best to not have him around small dogs. The other thing they found was that when he's removed from certain comfort zones (beside me, for example) he becomes clearly more nervous, so he might have separation anxiety. I recently got some relaxing music for dogs on CD though, so I'm going to see how well he acts when that's being played. So basically he's got a high prey drive, possible separation anxiety, and a nervous disposition the behaviorist guessed was probably from being removed from wherever he originally lived (he was fixed and pretty fat when he first showed up in the shelter apparently) to suddenly being in a very loud, chaotic environment (the shelter). The behaviorist said whatever it is, it's most likely going to stick with him for a while. I'm fine with that. I plan on keeping Corbin for a long, long time.
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Jan 23, 2012 20:08
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Thanks for the luring advice, everyone. Hurley will sit now much more reliably and not just go into a down. I figured out what it was. We were saying "sit down", and all he heard was down. So now, we are very specific with what we want. Sit, down, stay, come. He's doing really well, we just had to go back to basics. 
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Jan 23, 2012 21:31
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Okay, since I'm home all day, the dog really hasn't been by himself. So if I tie him up, and go in the other room, he starts barking and whining. Or if I have him teathered while I'm on the computer, he's constantly jumping up and barking at me, or licking at my legs. How do I teach him to be okay by himself?
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Jan 24, 2012 21:35
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Bash Ironfist posted:Okay, since I'm home all day, the dog really hasn't been by himself. So if I tie him up, and go in the other room, he starts barking and whining. Or if I have him teathered while I'm on the computer, he's constantly jumping up and barking at me, or licking at my legs. Start slow; leave for thirty seconds and then come back. Treat when you leave so that he starts associating you going with good things coming! Eventually increase the duration you are gone for and give stuffed kongs or other long lasting high value treats. Bailey doesn't seem to mind when I leave; he's actually always happy because he gets a treat before I go!
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Jan 24, 2012 22:00
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Seconding that. We always treat Hurley before we go and then leave the house/room like it's no big deal. The key is to make it very boring so he doesn't get all excited.
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Jan 24, 2012 22:29
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Alright, thanks for the info guys. Gonna start doing that today!
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Jan 24, 2012 23:16
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Bash Ironfist posted:Alright, thanks for the info guys. Gonna start doing that today! You also might want to start working really hard on alone training in a crate. I don't want to freak you out or anything, but at some point you will likely have to leave him by himself for a couple of hours, and it's better to make alone time okay when they're young than to treat separation anxiety later. Things that have helped me keep Neige from developing sep anx: a special kong with freeze-dried liver that she only gets when she's crated a special soft toy for snuggling distracting white noise she is not allowed to shadow me when I am home no fanfare upon leaving or return praise for playing independently when I am home a really good distance stay (15 ft or more, me not visible around a corner)
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Jan 24, 2012 23:54
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ButWhatIf posted:You also might want to start working really hard on alone training in a crate. I don't want to freak you out or anything, but at some point you will likely have to leave him by himself for a couple of hours, and it's better to make alone time okay when they're young than to treat separation anxiety later. The not shadowing thing, I think, is important too. Bailey is pretty independent (he begs for treats and love, but generally is happy to sit in the same room and sleep or watch) and I think having a dog that is OK knowing that you don't constantly need to be there is important. If he likes and will chew on nylabones, that would also be a great distraction. A lot of your experience is going to be dependent on how Feldman thinks of the time you are gone. As he realizes its super fun time and that you will be back, he'll be more and more relaxed. Also, while the white noise is great, don't just turn a radio on and leave and figure he'll be okay. Get him used to the idea of music or white noise as relaxing and positive. Turn the radio on and pet him, give some treats, maybe leave it on for play time. All of this stuff has to be conditioned.
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Jan 24, 2012 23:58
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wtftastic posted:The not shadowing thing, I think, is important too. Bailey is pretty independent (he begs for treats and love, but generally is happy to sit in the same room and sleep or watch) and I think having a dog that is OK knowing that you don't constantly need to be there is important. If he likes and will chew on nylabones, that would also be a great distraction. Right, I got you guys. He's been good so far, it took him a little bit, but now he's just napping on a blanket near my desk while I'm typing this. So he's calm. Unfortunately, we had to throw away all his toys/chews, etc because of his giardia. Hopefully when we clear it up, I'll buy him a super awesome chewbone to have when he's in his crate/alone, etc.
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Jan 25, 2012 00:17
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So a while back I began clicker training with Shadow. Right now we're doing 101 Things to do With a Box, but seeing as he's been so used to conventional training for so many years, progress is slow, as expected. I sit there and wait for him to look at the box. But... I think even when he does look toward it, he's not acknowledging the box. I think he thinks he's getting c/t'd for just looking in that direction (he'll look in that same direction even if I move the box). It doesn't matter if the box is a few feet away or right up against him, he's not giving consistent looks, and he's not progressing to moving toward the box or touching it. It's very much as if the box is invisible. I'm going to ask the trainer I intern for, but I wanted any opinions here as well. I know it's hard to say without seeing it, but is there anything I could be doing wrong? Anything to help him better understand the game? Or am I just going to have to be extra, extra, EXTRA patient since this is a whole new way of thinking/learning for him?
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Jan 25, 2012 06:21
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Skizzles posted:Or am I just going to have to be extra, extra, EXTRA patient since this is a whole new way of thinking/learning for him? Just to make sure which version of the game you're playing: are you clicking for one behavior the dog gets to "choose" or clicking for any new behaviors or something else entirely?
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Jan 25, 2012 06:28
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I'm clicking for any new behaviors really - a look, a nose or paw touch, a step up, anything. My goal is to basically get him thinking and trying different things on his own. He's never been the kind of dog to interact with his environment (unless there's a chipmunk hiding in it), so I can see how this might be doubly difficult for him.
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Jan 25, 2012 06:33
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Skizzles posted:I'm clicking for any new behaviors really - a look, a nose or paw touch, a step up, anything. My goal is to basically get him thinking and trying different things on his own. He's never been the kind of dog to interact with his environment (unless there's a chipmunk hiding in it), so I can see how this might be doubly difficult for him. The reason I was asking is there's a variation of 101 Things which is really difficult for any dog where you click only for new behaviors and only once for each new behavior and that should be reserved for the most skilled of clicker dogs (and it might be not even all of them get it).
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Jan 25, 2012 17:44
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So if he purposefully glances away/stands/moves/etc. I click, even if he does it over and over? Ultimately I'd really like to get to where I can shape behaviors with the clicker. In one of our sessions he was laying down, and every time he'd lay his head down I'd click because I'd like to shape a 'head down' cue. I was worried this was moving too quickly for him but he was actually starting to get it. But I'm still new to this and feeling it out with help from my internship.
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Jan 27, 2012 03:33
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Skizzles posted:So if he purposefully glances away/stands/moves/etc. I click, even if he does it over and over? Have you done shaping before with him? I've heard a couple of times that starting out with the 100 things to do with a box (or whatever the name is) game can be difficult for dogs to get their heads around. I've started both of my girls, and Lola's brother when he was younger, on shaping by bringing out an item they'd never seen. The dogs would all instantly be curious and investigate, and that jump-started the procedure. I also tend to stick to the loose rule now of 'ten repetitions max, then move on' when going through shaping levels; Jess can do more reps for a while without getting "stuck" at that level, but Lola can't. If you're still clicking after a while for him just looking at or taking a step or two closer, try withholding a click and/or rewarding by throwing food nearer to get him more excited about moving forward. If he seems to be comprehending body shaping more than object shaping (which can be confusing if you c/t for a lot of different things - dog has no idea what you're clicking for then, if they're not shaping-savvy), then ditch the objects for a while and do some body shaping.
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Jan 27, 2012 08:59
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So I went to the intro class for basic obedience today. One of the instructors is actually Stanley Coren, who had his gorgeous 14 year old and deaf toller with him. Unfortunately, there were two beginner classes, and I wasn't placed into the one he's teaching - about three people requested to be moved into his class citing "scheduling conflicts", but no one placed in his time wanted to be move out. I went to speak with my instructor after class, and told her about my dog's leash reactivity. She actually suggested a squirt bottle, which took me aback a bit - Stanley was all about positive reinforcement (and kept ragging on Milan, lol), so that was the sort of class I thought I signed up for. I'll see how things go after the first actual class, I guess. From what I gathered through reading the thread, I'm supposed to deal with Emo's leash reactivity by finding her threshold distance and streaming treats at her. It's worked for the most part, although there are still times when I can't get her attention :<
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Jan 27, 2012 09:25
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rawrr posted:I went to speak with my instructor after class, and told her about my dog's leash reactivity. She actually suggested a squirt bottle, which took me aback a bit - Stanley was all about positive reinforcement (and kept ragging on Milan, lol), so that was the sort of class I thought I signed up for. I'll see how things go after the first actual class, I guess. I guess different trainers at the same facility can have different ideas about training. Since you attended the intro class, did your trainer not go through their methods/give examples of how they'd deal with training issues/etc? But yeah it sounds like you have the right idea. A squirt bottle is just going to set back your progress. Keep trucking and you'll get there. It definitely gets easier as you go along. Which reminds me: Lola is doing so well lately. She's barked at a single guy outside in the last ~month, and not at a single dog. Several times we've turned corners and seen a dog about a metre or two away, and she's just zoned right back into me for a reward. I'm pretty sure it's at least partly from not going to the lovely park where nobody has taught their dog a recall; she's not been put in a position of having to drive other dogs away from me/her ball/herself (based on her body language, I think her issues are a mixture of resource guarding and some fearfulness) and I think setting stuff up so she wasn't constantly having to do that has made her much better. I still wouldn't let her off around other dogs and expect her to be okay at the minute, but we're getting there 
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Jan 27, 2012 09:47
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Fraction posted:Which reminds me: Lola is doing so well lately. She's barked at a single guy outside in the last ~month, and not at a single dog. Several times we've turned corners and seen a dog about a metre or two away, and she's just zoned right back into me for a reward. I'm pretty sure it's at least partly from not going to the lovely park where nobody has taught their dog a recall; she's not been put in a position of having to drive other dogs away from me/her ball/herself (based on her body language, I think her issues are a mixture of resource guarding and some fearfulness) and I think setting stuff up so she wasn't constantly having to do that has made her much better. I still wouldn't let her off around other dogs and expect her to be okay at the minute, but we're getting there That's awesome - when dealing with these sorts of deep rooted emotional reactions, sometimes I wonder if it's going to have to be something I'll have to manage for the rest of my dogs life, but it sounds like improvements can be made! The problem with my dog is that I think she was undersocialized as a puppy, and as a result she is really excited to meet other dogs. She'd get all wound up and excited if she even just sees another dog while we're home, and on walks that initially translated to her pulling towards dogs. After I switched to the gentle leader, I think I inadvertently made it worse, since now she can't pull and now ends up being frustrated, barking and lunging towards other dogs. To compound that, I've gotten nervous when she greets other dogs, so I've prematurely tensed up the leash, which only resulted in her snapping at the other dog. I feel that if I can find a way to make other dogs more boring for her, it would help with her leash reactivity. Aside from streaming treats and making myself more interesting, are there other things I could do? Will letting her romp around off leash with other dogs eventually make other dogs less exciting, or will it confirm her expectations that other dogs are fun fun fun?
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Jan 27, 2012 10:23
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rawrr posted:I feel that if I can find a way to make other dogs more boring for her, it would help with her leash reactivity. Aside from streaming treats and making myself more interesting, are there other things I could do? Will letting her romp around off leash with other dogs eventually make other dogs less exciting, or will it confirm her expectations that other dogs are fun fun fun? True leash reactivity is not just over-excitability, but a fear response to the leash itself because the dog understands that it restricts their fight or flight response. Particularly undersocialized dogs are bad at communicating what they want or reading communication in other dogs. So your dog probably doesn't know how to signal 'leave me alone', for instance, or read that body language in another dog. What happens then when these dogs start to get fearful (which can build up from over-excitement) is they start to over-react and often learn that a fearful display gets the other dog to go away (usually because the other dog just wanders off, but your dog thinks it was something she did). This can mean barking, lunging, growling, snapping, etc. Leash reactive dogs can be completely unreactive in an off-leash situation, but letting your dog play with other dogs off leash doesn't address the issue of the leash reactivity and so most likely won't magically solve your problem. You'll have to be careful that your dog is fine off-leash as well and make sure that her excitement stays under control. Since your dog is probably bad at communicating, you need to step in and make sure she doesn't bother other dogs who are signaling that they want to be left alone and likewise, you need to pull your dog out if she is showing signs of stress that the other dogs aren't picking up on. Dogs can learn good manners from other dogs, even past the puppy stage, but I doubt that that will happen much in a dog park type situation. Exercise does always make reactivity better though, so if you trust your dog to be okay in an off-leash situation and she enjoys and gets tons of exercise from it, it's worth doing. You'll still need to counter-condition the fear portion of the leash reactivity.
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Jan 27, 2012 15:37
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Skizzles posted:So if he purposefully glances away/stands/moves/etc. I click, even if he does it over and over? Nose touch is a good first thing to shape. If you're using a target, throw it on the floor when you're ready with your clicker and then see if the dog will sniff it to investigate. Place the rewards on the target and C/T very rapidly for the next sniff or touch. Edit. You ARE already shaping behaviors when playing 101 Things - you just aren't shaping anything you determined before you started, but building on whatever the animal is offering. Edited again to remove wrong link. Rixatrix fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jan 27, 2012 |
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Jan 27, 2012 16:00
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Fraction posted:If he seems to be comprehending body shaping more than object shaping (which can be confusing if you c/t for a lot of different things - dog has no idea what you're clicking for then, if they're not shaping-savvy), then ditch the objects for a while and do some body shaping. Yeah I think I'm going to have to do this. He's really never the kind of dog to give a poo poo about objects in his environment unless it's a treat or rodent, so it's hard to get him to pay them any attention. Rixatrix posted:Edit. You ARE already shaping behaviors when playing 101 Things - you just aren't shaping anything you determined before you started, but building on whatever the animal is offering. Edited again to remove wrong link. Oh I'm aware of this, but I guess I more meant to get the idea of shaping into his head and then move on to shaping more complicated behaviors. I'm still working on plans with that before moving on much. Right now he's still really struggling to understand what we're doing. The head down session was where he did the best, so I'll continue to work on that. Thanks, guys.
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Jan 27, 2012 16:54
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notsoape fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Feb 11, 2012 |
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Jan 27, 2012 23:54
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How do people fit short training sessions in during the day? Do you just do them randomly when you have time? Training during mealtimes or do you try to follow a schedule or certain strategies to make sure you get in both important training and fun stuff? I've become super busy with work since Christmas and I'm really trying to make my life more efficient because I just can't get everything done otherwise. I have several things that I want to work on with Psyche daily. Theoretically, I know that training sessions should be short and so I should be able to fit them in (after all, I fit in several bursts of reading SA daily!), but up until now I've been rather haphazard with it. So any tips that people use to make sure they get in those training sessions?
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Jan 28, 2012 02:54
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I keep a spreadsheet where I track whatever tasks we are currently working on daily, and if one of the tasks is neglected for a few days I feel bad enough that I concentrate on that a little more in the coming days. Staying on top of simple exercises is easy, but things like the Relaxation Protocol are difficult for me to keep up on, the setup takes a while. Boot up the laptop, have to find the mp3 files, hit play, whops try again the laptop was on mute, blah blah blah...but I'm trying! But I also tell myself that nobody's perfect and sometimes life just gets in the way, and people in this thread already do so much more than a lot of people who just stick their dogs in their backyards.
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Jan 28, 2012 04:10
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I usually have a spot of free time in the evening before bed to do a quick training session. After I take Shadow for his little nighttime walk I try to sit and work on his clicker training for a bit. But between work, interning, and other complicated things, sometimes I just don't feel up to it. Hopefully one of these days my life will be less cramped. In other news, I'm friends with the founder of a local pit bull advocacy group (Slugger City Bully Buddies). She says that once they get insurance (and I finish my internship, I assume) she'd like me to be one of their CGC trainers.
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Jan 28, 2012 04:38
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notsoape posted:Little training group gripe. There are two kinds of Rally over here (Canada) CKC and CARO. In the States the equivalents are AKC and APDT. CKC/AKC see Rally as a sort of preamble to competitive obedience, and treat it as such. Minimal commands, no food in the ring, etc. CARO/APDT allow you to feed your dog in the ring after stationary exercises during competition -- they are also considered more competitive. I'm not sure I'm 100% behind feeding in the ring - I compete in CKC and when I do CARO courses I normally forgo food. But egad, your dog is a puppy, and you're on your second lesson. For the love of god, feed yer dog. Luring is frowned upon, and not kosher while trialing. But reaching into your pouch to reward a good sit is perfectly acceptable while training. I personally think you should use the food until the behaviours are fluid on their own, and then reduce its use for one bit per 2-4 stations, then continue to reduce gradually.
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Jan 28, 2012 05:25
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