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Not an Anthem posted:What the hell kind of audio connection is this It's an old stereo plug. I have some late 70s speakers that had one of those plugs on each speaker, and they plugged into an RCA Amp (from Radio Shack.) When the amp died, I cut the plugs off. IIRC, the vertical blade is - and horizontal is +. I'd pull that crap out, check it, and install a stereo RCA block.
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May 18, 2010 00:33
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Cool, thanks.
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May 18, 2010 00:38
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Really dumb question: What happened to that guy who was clearing land for a place in Hawaii? People were volunteering to move out to help him, there were wild pigs... I'm pretty sure I didn't dream reading the thread 
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May 18, 2010 06:38
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There's a thread in GBS right now about some dude's friends who decided to The guy from the Hawaii thread showed up a few pages in and answered a few questions. He's still at it, doing great, they're working hard and things are fine. He closed the SA threads after some unfortunate forums-drama that spilled over into his real life (some fucks took serious offense to him hunting and killing wild pigs, even though they're a destructive invasive species on Hawaii and he did a pretty good job of it). If you are willing to plow through the above thread you'll find the guy eventually. I forget his username or I'd just do a search.
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May 18, 2010 07:01
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Another Dirty Dish posted:Really dumb question: grover fucked around with this message at 13:38 on May 18, 2010 |
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May 18, 2010 13:35
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We finally replaced our 15+ year old in-wall A/C unit with a more energy efficient and better cooling one. The new one was small so we framed the hole out with some 2x4s and 1x4s and got it setup securely and working great. What's needed to properly insulate and patch up the outside and inside of the walls to accommodate for the smaller size. We're planning on hitting up the small holes and cracks with spray foam and then putting some molding around the interior portion of the A/C to cover up the exposed 2x4s. The outside is stucco, so do we just put up some chicken wire and patch up the wall with some stucco repair mix? Am I wrong in my thinking here?
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May 18, 2010 21:14
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Quick question about joining 4 inch corrugated (downspout) to 4 inch PVC. I have a corrugated to PVC connector but there is still a lot of space around the corrugated. I've built a drywell and this connects the downspout to the PVC of the drywell. I'd like to keep stuff from falling into the upturned PVC and would like to have some sort of filter for the water coming from the gutter. Should I put a PVC sock over the end of the PVC and just put the corrugated into the connector? Is there a nice way to seal it with some caulk/glue? I am a bit worried about making it hard to service so I'd rather avoid the caulk/glue option. The sock option also may not be so attractive. Any thoughts?
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May 19, 2010 14:05
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Invicta{HOG}, M.D. posted:Quick question about joining 4 inch corrugated (downspout) to 4 inch PVC. grover fucked around with this message at 03:30 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 03:26
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grover posted:Everything should be sealed purely by physics and gravity: water can't flow uphill. Have you seen any water coming back up through the gaps, or are you just worried about it? If you need a caulked seal to keep water from backing up and pouring out the seams, you're simply dumping too much water too fast, and a sealed downspoint would just end up backing up and overflowing the roof gutter instead. Anything you can do to keep debris out should be fine. Not worried about it backing up at all - if it does that then the whole house is screwed with the size of the drywell I put in. The end of the PVC pipe points upward where it should join the downspout. As it stands, things can fall into the PVC pipe from above and collect in the system. I would like to keep things from falling in either through the gutter/downspout or through the seams around the downspout/PVC connection. I'm thinking about just wrapping it in PVC sock but it won't look as nice.
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May 20, 2010 04:13
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Lyric Proof Vest posted:i've hosed a usb key that has something fairly important on it. Should have had it backed up i know but i can't do that now. Basically upon cracking it open it seems that knocking the key has bent the connectors and they are now all detached from where they were soldered. I've tried bending them back and holding them down with a plastic card but it isn't working. any suggestions?
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May 20, 2010 04:47
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Another Dirty Dish posted:Really dumb question: Socratic Moron http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3286091&pagenumber=7&perpage=40#post374659483
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May 21, 2010 00:20
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The clothes drier that was included with my home purchase has never worked; nothing happens when you press the start button. I tried to see what was wrong today and found out that the thermal fuse is intact and functioning and the door switch is also functioning correctly. Those were the two things I figured it'd be and since it's not them, I'm stumped. Any ideas? It's a Kenmore 70 series (gas) dwoloz fucked around with this message at 21:53 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 03:52
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Are you holding down the on button for a few seconds, or just pushing it rapidly? I had an old drier that you had to do that for. Does the light come on inside when you open the door (if it has a light)? Make sure the plug it's plugged into isn't controlled by a light switch somewhere, and then maybe also plug a lamp or something into the outlet just to be sure the outlet is working. Or, wait, is it a 220v outlet? Check the circuit breaker for the house to make sure that circuit is active...
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May 21, 2010 08:10
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Yeah. Plugged in? Light works at all? If you unscrew the control panel, you can get to the folded up wiring diagram hidden underneath the panel (yes, a folded up paper diagram). It could be a switch on the motor, the dial may be bad, it could be the relay, the motor, hell, there are a whole mess of things it COULD be. First real question though is the dryer gas or electric?
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May 21, 2010 08:22
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I have a really OLD loving fridge from 1963. We decommissioned it back in 1999 when we bought a bigger, better fridge and retired the old one into the storage room. Well, the new fridge is dying these days and I'm thinking about putting the old one back into service since I can't really afford a new fridge right now. The oldie was working incredibly well back in '99, and we kept it clean and dry during 11 years it sat unplugged. Now, I wonder if I can just plug in the old fridge and it would work alright? Can fridges go bad if they're not run for extended periods of time?
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May 21, 2010 21:09
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Poknok posted:I have a really OLD loving fridge from 1963. We decommissioned it back in 1999 when we bought a bigger, better fridge and retired the old one into the storage room. Well, the new fridge is dying these days and I'm thinking about putting the old one back into service since I can't really afford a new fridge right now. The oldie was working incredibly well back in '99, and we kept it clean and dry during 11 years it sat unplugged. Now, I wonder if I can just plug in the old fridge and it would work alright? Can fridges go bad if they're not run for extended periods of time? Give it a whirl, but I've always been advised to let the unit sit for an hour or so after moving it to let the refrigerant settle. Is this really true?  Also, check Craig's List. There's always tons of fridges for short money in my area.
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May 21, 2010 21:26
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Richard Noggin posted:Give it a whirl, but I've always been advised to let the unit sit for an hour or so after moving it to let the refrigerant settle. Is this really true? The reason for this is moving it can move the oil from the compressor into the coils, if it gets too far & the compressor starts running you can basically push the oil into the coils & the compressor can starve. If you don't tip it up I've found 6 hrs is good enough, if you do lay it flat generally 48hrs is enough. I worked in a white goods lab for 4 years, we destryoyed enough to know this 
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May 21, 2010 21:40
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Poknok posted:Now, I wonder if I can just plug in the old fridge and it would work alright? Run an extension cord and try it. But, it actually is very affordable to have a refrigerator repaired (except for the newer Asian brands) so I would call a repairman for the '99.
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May 21, 2010 22:56
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wormil posted:Run an extension cord and try it. It's an Electrolux - I indeed called the repairman the other day and he said that the oil from the compressor got into the coolant pipes; the motor is running incredibly hot and that this is a shop work and would have been unreasonably expensive. The fridge would have had to be carried five flights of stairs (the elevator doesn't work, go figure), AND I wouldn't get a warranty on the repair job/spare parts installed. On the top of all this, a glass pane in the fridge is cracked and fixed up with sticky tape, and one of the drawers in the icebox is damaged beyond repair. I'm just looking for a reason to chuck the drat thing out. Poknok fucked around with this message at 23:27 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 23:24
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New refrigerators are far more efficient than older ones. If you compare the numbers, a new fridge may pay for itself in a few years in electrical savings alone.
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May 21, 2010 23:46
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Thanks for the replies on my drier problem (its gas btw) The previous owners had messed with the power supply wiring for some reason and it was a messy job so I disconnected it and began probing with my multimeter trying to find faults. I forgot whether or not the light lit up prior to my disconnecting the wiring so I wired it back up and whadya know, the whole thing works! I bet the POs wired the polarity backwards Anyway, thanks again
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May 22, 2010 05:13
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Poknok posted:It's an Electrolux - I indeed called the repairman the other day and he said that the oil from the compressor got into the coolant pipes; the motor is running incredibly hot and that this is a shop work and would have been unreasonably expensive. The fridge would have had to be carried five flights of stairs (the elevator doesn't work, go figure), AND I wouldn't get a warranty on the repair job/spare parts installed. On the top of all this, a glass pane in the fridge is cracked and fixed up with sticky tape, and one of the drawers in the icebox is damaged beyond repair. I'm just looking for a reason to chuck the drat thing out. Try another repair man. A good one will drain off any remaining gas, remove the compressor, drain & dry the pipes, fit a new dryer & compressor & regass in about an hour, on-site, and guarantee their work. Your local glass supplier will make toughened glass to your dimensions for $10 or less. This all together may be more expensive than a new one, and a new one will cost you a mountain 'o' cash less to run. In that case, craigslist the old one, recycle the bad one, buy a new one.
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May 22, 2010 09:53
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Is a spade bit made for drilling wood suitable for drilling plexiglass? I am considering using plexiglass for my MAME arcade control panel and need to drill a few holes where the buttons will go. I have read some instructions on MAME forums claiming that sandwitching the plexi between two pieces of wood will stop it from cracking while drilling, but I still want to make sure that a Spade bit is suitable. This is the exact bit I intend to use: http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com/54-383-spade-drill-bits/irwin-speedbor-bit-226506.aspx
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May 23, 2010 09:19
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This is probably a horribly stupid question, but I know nothing but dorm life with duct tape to put up things. I have a mirror that has four hooks on the back arranged horizontally and vertically about 2 feet apart, that I want to put onto the wall. It's basically a square shaped mirror with the corners having hooks about 4 inches in. What is the correct procedure to put this onto the wall? How do I put the nails in the correct places to have them line up correctly? And after that, how do I actually put it onto the wall. I've tried measuring the exact length on the mirror and then on the wall, but I can never get it to line up right. If this is just trial an error, I guess I can keep trying, but I'm getting the idea that there's something I'm missing. Thanks!
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May 23, 2010 18:01
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sonic bed head posted:This is probably a horribly stupid question, but I know nothing but dorm life with duct tape to put up things. I have a mirror that has four hooks on the back arranged horizontally and vertically about 2 feet apart, that I want to put onto the wall. It's basically a square shaped mirror with the corners having hooks about 4 inches in. What is the correct procedure to put this onto the wall? How do I put the nails in the correct places to have them line up correctly? And after that, how do I actually put it onto the wall. I've tried measuring the exact length on the mirror and then on the wall, but I can never get it to line up right. If this is just trial an error, I guess I can keep trying, but I'm getting the idea that there's something I'm missing. Thanks! I've never seen a mirror like that, but all you have to do is measure. Figure exactly how far apart the top two are. Put those nails, LEVEL, across from each other that distance apart. How far are the bottom ones from the top ones? Use a framing square (or anything with a hard right angle to it, or a plumb-bob) and measure down that far and pop in a nail. Just make what's on the wall match what's on the mirror. You're putting a mirror over it, don't be afraid to get out a pencil and make some marks to get everything right.
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May 23, 2010 19:29
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Not Memorable posted:I've never seen a mirror like that, but all you have to do is measure. Figure exactly how far apart the top two are. Put those nails, LEVEL, across from each other that distance apart. How far are the bottom ones from the top ones? Use a framing square (or anything with a hard right angle to it, or a plumb-bob) and measure down that far and pop in a nail. Just make what's on the wall match what's on the mirror. You're putting a mirror over it, don't be afraid to get out a pencil and make some marks to get everything right. Another trick is to mark the hooks with a grease pencil...get it on there thick. With a bullet level on top of the mirror, make sure the mirror top is level and press the mirror/hooks into the wall. The grease pencil marks will transfer to the wall. Put nails there.
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May 23, 2010 19:49
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Another Dirty Dish posted:Really dumb question: He's still alive and working out there, has some structures up now. All goon volunteers survived with all limbs intact (although a fair amount of sunburn between them). All the ones I'm in regular contact with and see on Socratic Moron's facebook page would like to go back at some point, including myself. Pretty much a happy ending, despite the drama 
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May 23, 2010 21:26
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Just wondering how possible this is: I'm thinking of rigging up a ghetto Sound spectrum display using LEDs that interfaces with winamp via USB or soundcard output for a party thats in a few months, i'm just wondering how hard would this be to do or if the parts required cost like a few thousand?
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May 24, 2010 16:28
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Pseudo-God posted:Is a spade bit made for drilling wood suitable for drilling plexiglass? I am considering using plexiglass for my MAME arcade control panel and need to drill a few holes where the buttons will go. I have read some instructions on MAME forums claiming that sandwitching the plexi between two pieces of wood will stop it from cracking while drilling, but I still want to make sure that a Spade bit is suitable. I used a hole saw when I did mine. No cracking at all. Harbor Freight sells a cheapy set for like $6.
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May 24, 2010 19:19
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Pseudo-God posted:Is a spade bit made for drilling wood suitable for drilling plexiglass? I am considering using plexiglass for my MAME arcade control panel and need to drill a few holes where the buttons will go. I have read some instructions on MAME forums claiming that sandwitching the plexi between two pieces of wood will stop it from cracking while drilling, but I still want to make sure that a Spade bit is suitable. I made a mame cab years ago and I'm pretty sure I used a spade bit on plexi but I don't remember exactly how. With regular bits they recommend running the bit backwards and basically melting through the plexi but that's not very helpful with spade bits. Sandwiching would probably work well.
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May 24, 2010 20:39
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We're looking for a non-gloss paint and primer with low or zero VOCs. We looked at Sherwin-Williams, Lowes, and Home Depot. Home Depot had one brand with very specific colors only available, Lowe's had Olympia low/zero VOC paint, and Sherwin-Williams had two types (low and zero). The S-W paints were about twice the price, on sale at 25% off, vs. the Olympia. However, I've seen other people trash talk the Olympia in another thread. Any advice on which low/zero VOC paints/primers we might be happy with? Anyone have experience with the Sherwin-Williams Duration or Harmony? Or good experiences with Olympia?
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May 27, 2010 13:45
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I need to purchase a new air filter for my central heat and air system. Any specific recommendations on brands to consider? Does spending a lot more get you a lot better performance?
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May 27, 2010 16:18
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tronester posted:I need to purchase a new air filter for my central heat and air system. Any specific recommendations on brands to consider? Does spending a lot more get you a lot better performance?
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May 27, 2010 21:31
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Bah.....back to the dryer issue! Doesn't work! I rewired it and got it to power on (lights up and spins) but not getting any heat. It's a gas dryer, Kenmore 70 series. What do I need to check? dwoloz fucked around with this message at 05:59 on May 28, 2010 |
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May 28, 2010 05:53
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When that's happened to me, it's been the hi-limit thermostat. See http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html#no-eheat
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May 28, 2010 11:26
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Report on the old 1963 fridge: After cleaning it up (it was incredibly dusty), I let it sit for an hour and plugged it in. To my amazement, it works like a champ, though the motor sounds like a diesel locomotive (which is not necessarily a bad thing, I sort of like trains). These old fridges just don't know when it's time to quit.
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May 31, 2010 19:22
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Poknok posted:Report on the old 1963 fridge: After cleaning it up (it was incredibly dusty), I let it sit for an hour and plugged it in. To my amazement, it works like a champ, though the motor sounds like a diesel locomotive (which is not necessarily a bad thing, I sort of like trains). These old fridges just don't know when it's time to quit.
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May 31, 2010 19:56
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grover posted:They're inefficient as hell, though. Even if it was free, it would be cheaper to buy a new fridge than to pay the electric costs to run a 60s free refridgerator. Sorry. Well it's only a temporary solution until I muster up the cash for a new fridge. The old fridge will remain in service for a year TOPS. I don't think electrical costs are going to be significantly higher - the new fridge was a truly massive unit and already used a LOT of power, while the old fridge is smallish, even by 60's standards. I'd estimate that they both use approximately the same amount of electricity to run, though I could be wrong.
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May 31, 2010 20:01
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Window question time! The window 'guides' on a few windows seem to have broke from opening them too hard and breaking against the stopper, while others are missing the thumb lever like in this picture (the pointy end that pokes out is what is missing on a few other windows), it is spring loaded: I asked around at Menards if they sold window latches, guides, whatever they were called. I had to actually show the guy in the window area what I was talking about and he said I would need to find out what kind of windows I have and they could probably order them. He told me to look for a sticker in the top of the window sill. Sure enough, I found a sticker:  I have no idea how to even decode this. Google searches come up blank. There is no 'brand' that I can see. I have about 18 windows in the house that are all like this one. First, what the hell is this part called that I'm looking for? Second, can I just open the window somehow and pop a new one in? Third, How/Where do I find these things? It's not urgent, just annoying. I am hoping it'll cost me $5 and 10 mins of my time to replace the broken ones. But I need to know what I am looking to buy and how I go about replacing them. Fourth, WHY ARE THEY EASILY BREAKABLE PLASTIC? Help?
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Jun 1, 2010 02:32
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Philthy posted:Fourth, WHY ARE THEY EASILY BREAKABLE PLASTIC? What does the writing on the lock say? They look very similar to the locks on my ~2006 MW windows, but mine don't have any writing on them. Pella are slightly different and say "Pella" on them. Anderson and Marvin use different style locks. Which exhausts my knowledge of common window brands. MW's been bought/renamed to PlyGen- could they be PlyGen windows? And yes, you can get a replacement sash, but they're REALLY expensive. As in, it's cheaper to buy a whole new $150-300 window and take the sashes out of it. Your best bet is to track down the manufacturer and ask them. They may have the part for sale for a reasonable price. Looks like the date stamp is 2009- is this a new house? Can you ask the builder what brand of windows they sed? grover fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jun 1, 2010 |
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Jun 1, 2010 02:53
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