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vivacthulhu posted:It's got 238,xxx miles on it, but compression was even across all the cylinders and the price was right, so I figured why the hell not. The guy I bought it from had bought it as his first car when he was 16 and actually had all the service documentation for last 7 years. The suspension is in pretty good shape all things considered but it is getting Bilsteins come tax refund time. Cool. I thought the DASC was discontinued and you couldn't use it on the M42 because there are no knock sensors to pull the timing if the boost causes knock?
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Apr 16, 2009 20:47
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vivacthulhu posted:
Dont bother taking that off yourself, let a professional do it when they install new tint. They'll charge a nominal fee but it is well worth it to not have to deal with that labor and the chance of loving up your window defroster.
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Apr 16, 2009 21:25
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Brock Landers posted:Cool. I thought the DASC was discontinued and you couldn't use it on the M42 because there are no knock sensors to pull the timing if the boost causes knock? It is discontinued but you can still find the kit around. It is made for the M44 but the reason it doesn't work for the M42 straight out of the box is that the M42 uses old fashioned V-belts instead of the serpentine that the M44 has, so you get to swap some pulleys and switch to a serpentine and from there it's pretty much a straight bolt on. The E30s have a surprising amount of free space for intercoolers and other nonsense that I shouldn't be thinking about with my DD.
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Apr 16, 2009 23:40
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The pic I took of my E30 today is so awesome it deserves to be in this thread too!
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Apr 16, 2009 23:54
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You think you're so cool with your deleted side markers. That's a drat cool E30, what is it specifically?
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Apr 17, 2009 00:01
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Hermansen posted:The pic I took of my E30 today is so awesome it deserves to be in this thread too! Mighty fine. Which wheels are those?
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Apr 17, 2009 02:29
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That's a nice blue. I'd still have to take calypso red if I had the choice though. I went and got an oil filter from the dealership today. 20.90  . I think it would be cheaper to pay duties and shipping from the US.
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Apr 17, 2009 03:00
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Deleted sidemarkers?  The car just might be the most stock entry model 316i ever made. The wheels are 16" Momos.. don't know the model.. I picked it up for 12000 kr or 2500$, the rims came with the car. It's also only done 113k kilometers..
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Apr 17, 2009 11:51
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vivacthulhu posted:It's got 238,xxx miles on it, but compression was even across all the cylinders and the price was right, so I figured why the hell not. I love it. Everyone was all worried about my 318IS having 180k miles on it. But here is more proof that its no problem at all, those M42's are tanks. Definitely pick up those bilsteins with some H&R shocks. The car is a blast to drive.
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Apr 17, 2009 15:17
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Hermansen posted:Deleted sidemarkers? These:  The ones on the bumper is what he's referring to. But I didn't think euro bumpers had them, they're on the door instead. Or at least mine are.
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Apr 17, 2009 16:30
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vivacthulhu posted:Did you buy that in Santa Monica?
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Apr 17, 2009 22:17
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:Did you buy that in Santa Monica? Nope, I bought it in Los Osos, about 10 miles from San Luis Obispo.
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Apr 17, 2009 22:27
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Crustashio posted:
Yeah, Euro bumpers don't have the additional running lights. Instead they have turn signal repeaters on the fenders.
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Apr 18, 2009 00:00
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I want to get the top speed limiter removed on my M3. Dinan doesn't sell a flash for the E92 unfortunately, and I don't really trust active auto or turner's solution. Last time I got a flash from Turner it pinged like hell, and I'm not about to try that again on a 12.0:1 comp. motor. Any ideas?
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Apr 18, 2009 01:24
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I installed some new stuff. 
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Apr 18, 2009 22:45
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TractionControl posted:I installed some new stuff. Nice. I love those Mtech 2 wheels. Makes me regret having an airbag car.
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Apr 18, 2009 22:52
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peterjmatt posted:Nice. I love those Mtech 2 wheels. Makes me regret having an airbag car. I had an airbag car, too. My clockspring broke and I searched for a good leather airbag wheel and couldn't find one, so I just decided to spend the $400 for an Mtech2 instead of the $800 for a leather airbag wheel. However you have to build yourself a spacer and get the non-airbag stalks.
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Apr 18, 2009 22:54
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This.. Click here for the full 1434x1339 image. came from this..  Click here for the full 1941x899 image. Its great having a mechanic tell you that you were a few frayed nylon strands away from the driveshaft spiking into the road and your car flipping. This is after having the car into three garages for a mysterious 'knocking' noise, and not one of them picking up the fact the guibo was hosed. One the plus side, i guess i found my garage of choice, and the car accelerates like a dream now. Very close to mechanical soundness, then i can get to work on the aesthetics of the car!
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Apr 18, 2009 23:01
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semi related to that ... I was hearing some weird noise whenever I sped up or slowed down, it went away when I was stopped my friend who works on cars, and drives my car often, said that I hear things, that it was nothing, and that worry too much about my car I took it in after a couple weeks and apparently the drive line was attempting to fail
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Apr 18, 2009 23:18
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Oh hay other German car drivers. So I'm thinking about leasing a 135i. Not planning on tracking it, but I do want to do some pretty heavy driving, but also want a comfortable and fast daily driver. Anyone have anything negative to say about the car?
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Apr 19, 2009 01:15
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Schwartz posted:Oh hay other German car drivers. They're expensive for the size and equipment. And the N54 motor, while an absolute blast to drive, has had more issues than any other BMW motor I can think of off the top of my head: turbo waste gates breaking, high pressure fuel pumps dying, low pressure fuel sensors, and software tuning issues. That being said, if I could afford it I'd be happy driving one. VVVV That's really impressive, especially since there's no middle seat. The 1 series is a 2+2, at least in coupe trim (which is all we get in this country). Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 19, 2009 01:37
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It's much cozier than the GTI you're coming from. Though 3 big dudes fit in the back of one when I sat in it at a driving school.
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Apr 19, 2009 01:52
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Looking for a little advice from anyone who has experience with this model: Locally there is a 1984 BMW 733i for sale for $2500. The color is maroon. Body is undamaged, paint is original as far as I can tell, all the trim is present and undamaged, there is no rust (even on the underbody, I checked). I do not know the mileage, and the sign on it said everything works except the speedometer. What are common failure items on this car? Will I want to kill myself when I go to work on it? How hard are parts to find? Are the parts dramatically more expensive than parts for newer BMWs/other cars of the same vintage? Is the car a terrible piece of crap to be avoided at all costs? What sort of crazy tools will I need to perform standard maintenance? Is the price high? High for michigan? (Obviously will be hard to say without knowing the mileage). Input is appreciated.
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Apr 20, 2009 16:21
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ab0z posted:Looking for a little advice from anyone who has experience with this model: That doesn't seem like a bad price for a rust free E23. If you consider metric measurements to be crazy then yes you will need some 'crazy' tools. The M30 is a pretty stout engine and you shouldn't have trouble finding parts for it. You mostly want to worry about the cooling system & the M30 chain tensioner. I hope you don't expect all the various electrical doodads to work, though. If you're looking for a reliable daily driver don't buy this. If you like to tinker with cars and want a fairly mechanically reliable project, buy it.
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Apr 20, 2009 17:09
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Jorsh posted:If you consider metric measurements to be crazy then yes you will need some 'crazy' tools. quote:The M30 is a pretty stout engine and you shouldn't have trouble finding parts for it. quote:You mostly want to worry about the cooling system & the M30 chain tensioner. quote:I hope you don't expect all the various electrical doodads to work, though. quote:If you're looking for a reliable daily driver don't buy this.  quote:If you like to tinker with cars and want a fairly mechanically reliable project, buy it. Edit: The sign describes the car as "Runs good - great daily driver" So I would imagine there are no immediate major mechanical concerns, as far as the engine goes.
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Apr 20, 2009 19:27
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my e39 (2000 528i) is less than 3k away from 180k ... I can tell that it is time for the every 30k service and I figure I want to do some/most of the service the only thing that I wonder about is that apparently I have "lifetime" transmission fluid, I laugh at this idea and feel that it needs changing ... would that be a bad idea?
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Apr 20, 2009 21:12
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EvilMoFo posted:my e39 (2000 528i) is less than 3k away from 180k ... I can tell that it is time for the every 30k service and I figure I want to do some/most of the service http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=494219 The general consensus, I believe, is that it's not in fact lifetime fluid, and you should change it regularly if you like having a transmission.
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Apr 20, 2009 21:28
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Out of curiosity, are all m20b25 oil filters on the passenger side, or is it just my iX? I tore out the airbox on my car only to find no oil filter there, and realized the bently was showing an old 318 filter. It's not loving fun trying to remove a stuck filter when it's below the headers and above a driveshaft. On the other hand, I managed to defeat the lube techs who decided my drain plug should be torqued to about 60000Nm.
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Apr 20, 2009 21:48
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Jesus Christ posted:Yellow M3
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Apr 20, 2009 21:54
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Crustashio posted:Out of curiosity, are all m20b25 oil filters on the passenger side, or is it just my iX? I tore out the airbox on my car only to find no oil filter there, and realized the bently was showing an old 318 filter. It's not loving fun trying to remove a stuck filter when it's below the headers and above a driveshaft. as far as i know they're all under the headers, but obviously the rwd ones don't have the front driveshaft.
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Apr 20, 2009 22:02
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Well, I just ordered a set of UUC E36 RTABs. I went with them because I hear they don't need to be pressed in, and they last longer than the stock RTABs. If my current ones are as bad as I think they are, I won't have any trouble getting them out. So once these go in at the beginning of next month, I'll get a new pair of tires to replace the ones I shredded, then a rear-end alignment. Anybody else have the UUC RTABs? Any pointers for installation?
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Apr 21, 2009 14:44
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Im starting to hear a faint whine from my transmission when I am in gear but coasting with the clutch in (like 1 second before coming to a stop). The slower the car coasts the slower the whine, and it is loudest in first, then second, and can't be heard in any other gears. Last night a coasted a hundred feet and experimented moving in and out of neutral and the sound definitely comes when I'm in first or second gear (clutch in), and disappears in neutral. Thoughts? It is very faint bur I've never noticed it the last 4 years.
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Apr 21, 2009 17:13
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CornHolio posted:Anybody else have the UUC RTABs? I didn't install them, but the new M3 we bought got them put in before we took receipt of the car. The back end feels very, very predictable under varying cornering loads, as in decreasing radius sweepers. I'd vouch for their general goodness as a part.
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Apr 21, 2009 18:03
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b0nes posted:Is this considered "Dakar Yellow"? I can't really tell, the color seems washed out. Yah, it's Dakar Yellow. It looks washed out because I took the pictures on my lovely phone camera. It looks a lot sharper in real life.
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Apr 21, 2009 18:30
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I had trouble with my E38 tonight. I doubt it's anything dramatic but BMW engines are new to me. For the record, '01 740il. Yesterday I got a check coolant error on my way home. This struck me as odd given that the fluids were topped off about three thousand miles ago, but it has been hot so I didn't think much of it. I added about a quart of water and called it a day. Today after exiting the freeway (75+ mph) I moved onto a stop-and-go surface street and noticed steam from the driver's side wheel-well. The temperature gauge was typical and I didn't get a check coolant error. When I checked under the hood the top radiator hose had disconnected from the block. I allowed the car to cool, reconnected the hose and added more coolant and water. It idled for about twenty minutes before reaching it's usual middle-of-the-gauge temperature. When I started to drive the temperature shot up almost the instant it began moving. I don't have a manual for the car, but my take is the hose that blew was a return from the engine to the radiator, and the car didn't overheat because it was still pulling coolant. I suspect the subsequent overheating was caused by insufficient coolant from my dumb rear end not checking again after letting it idle. Tomorrow's plan is to check all the hoses, refill with coolant, see what happens. Seem reasonable? I still don't know why the hose would have disconnected. I realize hoses sometimes break or come loose, but I'm concerned there might be a thermostat problem causing pressure to build and blow it off. I'm also not sure about the structural integrity of the hose itself. The last engine I spent a lot of time on was a '61 caddy, and it's hoses were very rigid - almost PVC hard. The one in the E38 isn't much stiffer than a garden hose. Thoughts? drat, that was long. Sorry.
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Apr 22, 2009 08:27
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OrangeFurious posted:Cooling system stuff Oh dear. How many miles are on the car? Any record of any cooling system work being done? These engines are notorious for making GBS threads their cooling systems around 60,000 miles. There are problems with hoses, radiators, thermostats, water pumps, expansion tanks, fan clutches, and even fan blades. The BEST thing to do is replace it ALL if it's never been done. I know it sounds like overkill, but what happens is you will replace one part and the "stress" of that new part working correctly will cause other failures in the weak parts of the system. There are numerous posts on BMW forums of people replacing water pumps, only to have their radiator or expansion tank explode 1000 miles later. My BMW dealer actually said that they don't replace just one part of these cooling systems anymore. They've had too many repeat visits and too many complaints to BMW. Oh and the V8 is also known for a leaking valley pan gasket. If you're losing coolant, but it doesn't look like it's leaking anywhere, it might be accumulating in the valley pan and then burning off/evaporating from there. THAT is job best left to the dealer or a good independent, as it requires removing the intake manifold and lots of parts on the top of the engine. It's not hard, just tedious and time consuming. More info here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=14230117 I would get a flashlight and look over the entire engine compartment for coolant leaks. It might just be a torn hose. Look for coolant residue (if it has BMW coolant, it's a bluish-greenish-white) on all engine parts. Important cooling system parts will cost ~$500-700 depending on where you buy them and you can do all the work in about a day. Valley pan gasket is another $40ish, but you will want to change the intake manifold gaskets while you're in there (they go bad too) so figure another $50. Good luck!
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Apr 22, 2009 12:52
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I'm trying to find the part number/a good source for the tool which compresses the clutch slave cylinder (e36). From the TIS I've found that it's called 'special tool 21 5 030' but I haven't had much luck trying to convert this to a BMW part number and/or price. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I might find this for a relatively reasonable price online? I've found it for $180 at MiniMania.com but I vaguely remember hearing that it can be had for around $130.
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Apr 22, 2009 13:55
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Taymar posted:I'm trying to find the part number/a good source for the tool which compresses the clutch slave cylinder (e36). From the TIS I've found that it's called 'special tool 21 5 030' but I haven't had much luck trying to convert this to a BMW part number and/or price. Is this it?  I've got one of these that Ive never used, but I think it's just to hold the cylinder in the proper orientation or something.
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Apr 22, 2009 14:18
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Brock Landers posted:Oh dear. How many miles are on the car? Any record of any cooling system work being done? (etc) drat, that's not the simple fix I was hoping for. The car has 88k on it, but I don't have any of the maintenance records - I bought it from a small dealership at 84k. If it's been dealer serviced, would I be able to call and get the past records even if it was a different dealer that did the work?
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Apr 22, 2009 16:21
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OrangeFurious posted:drat, that's not the simple fix I was hoping for. The car has 88k on it, but I don't have any of the maintenance records - I bought it from a small dealership at 84k. If it's been dealer serviced, would I be able to call and get the past records even if it was a different dealer that did the work? I had a hell of a time. I finally found someone on bimmerforums that worked at a dealer, and he tapped into the network and gave me some info. I called something like 9-10 dealerships for my car and every one of them was tight-lipped or at est very vague.
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Apr 22, 2009 16:31
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