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Gothmog1065 posted:Any reason to buy Ubiquiti over Omada? Omada seems quite a bit cheaper, can run the controller on my PC. Looks like TP Link is 250 for Router+AP+switch. Am I overlooking something? I'll give you my personal opinion - which is heavily biased from my experience last night into this morning. I have a fairly small home network: - A controller (OC200 - the little one) - A switch (8 port PoE, TL-SG2210MP v2.0) - A router (ER605 v2.0) - 2x APs (EAP225) - A few PCs connected I set it up recently and it was only slightly quirky, but it was totally reasonable for the price. I changed the default subnet to something else (this is a big no-no apparently, but it didn't complain) and it all ran pretty smoothly for months. Last night I expanded my network a little bit by running some wires for family members, and I noticed the controller and switch had an update pending. I updated the controller and all hell broke loose. The switch and router both became orphaned, so I went to re-adopt them - the switch "failed" adoption with a weird error (something like "Device has refused adopt commands") and the router would adopt, provision, then go back to pending no matter what I did. Frustrated, I factory reset the switch and it still refused to adopt. I put it into "standalone" mode - and tried to adopt with credentials given as it recommends in the FAQ. Just kept refusing to adopt. Fine, maybe I'll try the router. Same thing: reset, adopt, provision, pending. At this point I find out the "fun" fact that the system has horrible issues with any devices not on the default 192.168.0.1 network - they just won't adopt sometimes. So, I changed the subnet back and tried forcing the "inform" address - same thing I'd do with Unifi gear if it gets unruly. After doing that and a few reboots, everything was on 192.168.0.x, except the router which absolutely refused even with factory reset. There is no SSH into devices by default (though it is a setting in the controller) so I couldn't see what the hell was really going on. I gave up at this point and tried to downgrade the controller and factory reset everything. Annoyingly, that's what "fixed" it: resetting everything back to zero and rebuilding the whole network from scratch. One single patch and the network was hosed. Now, that may not be the normal situation, but it seriously soured me on the whole platform if one patch can completely break everything. I'm also not happy that changing away from the default network range potentially breaks everything. I should also point out that the Omada app is pretty nice for dashboard details, but utterly worthless for configuration. You cannot set port profiles or really much of any settings at all - it all has to be done from the web UI. Another major annoyance that could be a bug is that reserving IPs basically doesn't work, nor does setting port profiles (i.e. VLANs) without completely disconnecting things and rebooting. Pretty spooky from a security standpoint, but not the end of the world for a small home network. To balance this, I'll talk about my experience with Unifi at work. I've been rebuilding our ratty network setups with Unifi and it's been almost totally straightforward. The only major ??? moment I've had so far is LLDP not working through their in-wall APs for our VoIP phones when we deployed them with PCs. Other than that and the occasional issue with some older devices going AWOL for a bit, I can definitely say it's worth the extra if you need stability and consistency. Their app has been quite good as well. So, I'm definitely biased here, but I'm still furious how much time I lost to a single patch compared to the literally hundreds of Unifi devices I've worked with.
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Dec 3, 2022 05:08
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I think the omada routers also don't have stateful firewalls
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Dec 3, 2022 05:17
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ROJO posted:Alright, maybe this isn't the best thread for this, but I'm in need of UPS suggestions. I've been through two CyberPower OR700LCDRM1U units (and a warranty battery replacement on one of them) - and it is again not actually keeping my networking gear up when the power drops. It acts like it is in battery mode, but immediately goes to <50% battery capacity and all my network gear is offline. I've also had what I suspect are power transients that have been resolved quickly, but not quick enough that my NAS (ds1821+) doesn't restart, despite my network gear staying up. Anyways, I'm tired of these units and their poor longevity, and am interested in doing something different, and getting a larger battery capacity (1500VA). I have a shallow two post, 12U rack, so I recognize I am liking going to have to move to something that sits on top of the rack cabinet rather than being inside - as I don't really see larger UPSs that are capable of a two post mount due to size and weight. Right now the 4 things I have on UPS power are an SB8200, USG-PRO-4, US-16-150W (which runs my 3 wifi APs among other, less important things I don't care about in a power outage), and the DS1821+. They're expensive, but APC does have a short depth two post rack compatible 1500VA Li-Ion unit in the Smart-UPS line. The expected life is 8-10 years. https://www.apc.com/us/en/product/S...-depth-avr-lcd/ I installed one in a network closet last year and I liked it enough that we're ordering 7 or 8 more out of the end of this year's budget.
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Dec 3, 2022 05:22
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Inept posted:I think the omada routers also don't have stateful firewalls
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Dec 3, 2022 06:49
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BlankSystemDaemon posted:Wait what? How in the gently caress do they get away with that? It’s not true.
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Dec 3, 2022 14:09
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Cyks posted:It’s not true.
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Dec 3, 2022 14:38
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I'm looking at new routers at the moment for a couple of reasons. Firstly, I want something with better range as I have some smart bulbs etc. that are far from the router which are acting flaky. I've checked and they are receiving a poor strength signal, about -90dBm and keep dropping off the network or responding really slowly. The other reason is I want something with Wifi 6 to better support my Quest 2. The house is not massive, I don't know the area but I'd say it's probably in the 'small house' bracket. Current router is a BT Business Smart Hub 6. I'm in the UK, for reference in terms of availability and price. There are only two of us here, and our fibre is a paltry 20Mbs downstream (rural area), but I do have a lot of smart devices, the router admin page is currently listing about 30 in total. I think I've got it down to the TP-Link AX55 or AX73. The former can be had for about £70 and the latter about £150. Trying to figure out if AX73 is worth the extra money. Honestly I think the AX55 would probably do the job, the main reason I'd go for the AX73 is it looks like it might give better performance with the Quest, supporting MIMO etc. But on the other hand, some reviews are saying that 2.4Ghz throughput is not quite as good on the AX73, and actually most of my devices are on that band, partly because that's all a lot of them support, and partly to keep it clear for the Quest. We only have 2 neighbours so the 2.4Ghz band is actually not really congested for us. I can use a channel that's not overlapping with them at all. So does anyone have any insight on a) whether the AX73 would actually work better with the Quest (AirLink/Virtual Desktop), or whether it wouldn't make much real world difference? And b) whether 2.4Ghz performance might actually be better on the AX55? And I suppose c) whether there are better options in this price range? chippy fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Dec 3, 2022 |
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Dec 3, 2022 16:01
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I'm not sure if this counts as networking or not so apologies. My wife and I have recently taken delivery from the stork. The package is quite a light sleeper and my wife and I would quite like to watch things together while in the same room as the baby. We want to be able to use two bluetooth headsets at the same time to listen to things on either my laptop or the big TV, but it seems that both things can only connect to one bluetooth speaker at a time. Is there a device I can use to connect my TV/Laptop to, that will allow us to use two sets of bluetooth headsets at the same time? I've tried googling but I just seem to get a lot of clickbait and I'm too tired to triangulate. Any help would be appreciated!
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Dec 3, 2022 16:59
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Hansolio posted:They're expensive, but APC does have a short depth two post rack compatible 1500VA Li-Ion unit in the Smart-UPS line. The expected life is 8-10 years. https://www.apc.com/us/en/product/S...-depth-avr-lcd/ Hah, thanks. Didn't see this is my earlier searching, but that cost, drat  Wound up going with the admittedly also pricey SMT1500, but $600 is a lot more palatable than $2400. Maybe if I win the lottery by the time this SMT1500 burns out....
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Dec 3, 2022 19:13
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Olewithmilk posted:I'm not sure if this counts as networking or not so apologies. My wife and I have recently taken delivery from the stork. The package is quite a light sleeper and my wife and I would quite like to watch things together while in the same room as the baby. We want to be able to use two bluetooth headsets at the same time to listen to things on either my laptop or the big TV, but it seems that both things can only connect to one bluetooth speaker at a time. Is there a device I can use to connect my TV/Laptop to, that will allow us to use two sets of bluetooth headsets at the same time? I think the key phrase you're looking for is "dual wireless headset for tv" - if I search Amazon for this I see a lot of units with one base station driving two sets of headphones, or in one case four sets. Avantree seems to be one of the more popular vendors.
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Dec 3, 2022 19:37
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Any suggestions for how to clean up this hot mess of cords that doesn't involve opening up the wall? The one above the coax is fiber and it's so drat thick, and there's a few extra feet of it coiled up and stuffed into the rack. Some sort of raceway, switching up the wall plate with something like this or this and having everything go into the rack through the opening on the underside? Maybe get the power cord to the rack on a downward facing plug? Terminate the fiber at a wall mount box and just have a fiber patch cable going to the rack? I dunno!
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Dec 3, 2022 20:15
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I'm looking for a good pair of MoCA adapters to potentially put a second wireless access point at the far side of my in-laws' house. Any suggestions for low-cost reliable adapters?
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Dec 3, 2022 22:19
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Been running into issues with my internet lately. 20-30 seconds of intermittent outages--enough to drop me from games and stall streaming apps. I've spoken to my ISP, they've had a tech come out and inspect our home connections (some connectors were rusted and quickly replaced), I've reset my modem and router multiple times, but nothing has solved the issue. Been happened on and off for a few months new. Modem and router are 4 years old. My ISP, Spectrum, keeps suggesting my equipment could be the problem. Are there any other alternative suggestions this thread might have?
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Dec 3, 2022 22:57
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Shinjobi posted:Been running into issues with my internet lately. 20-30 seconds of intermittent outages--enough to drop me from games and stall streaming apps. I've spoken to my ISP, they've had a tech come out and inspect our home connections (some connectors were rusted and quickly replaced), I've reset my modem and router multiple times, but nothing has solved the issue. Been happened on and off for a few months new. Modem and router are 4 years old. My ISP, Spectrum, keeps suggesting my equipment could be the problem. I mean go down the usual list of - how often does it happen? - does it happen more in the evening than in the morning or midday? (if the answer to this one is yes then it's probably something bigger than just your equipment imo) - does the modem indicate internet and not the router? Beyond that what modem/router do you have right now?
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Dec 3, 2022 23:19
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try graphing it with pingplotter i had an isp gaslight me for something like a year, and if not for pingplotter documenting the outages, nothing would probably have happened. can be equipment, can be something at their central, can be something in the "nodes" in your area, but documenting it with red-bar patterns and time of day goes a long way and is fairly straightforward to show to an electrician pingplotter has mobile apps too which helps against arguments that you've "got something set up wrong" if you can document a similar dc/packet loss pattern at the same time
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Dec 3, 2022 23:21
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kliras posted:try graphing it with pingplotter For such a simple application I'm really curious if there is some github repo with an open source equivalent. Unless what they are selling you is a target server they own that you can ping away at without annoying anyone?
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Dec 4, 2022 00:38
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M_Gargantua posted:For such a simple application I'm really curious if there is some github repo with an open source equivalent. Unless what they are selling you is a target server they own that you can ping away at without annoying anyone?
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Dec 4, 2022 01:26
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smax posted:I'm looking for a good pair of MoCA adapters to potentially put a second wireless access point at the far side of my in-laws' house. Any suggestions for low-cost reliable adapters? The actiontec moca adapters have been great for me, saturated 1 Gbps no problem. I think they might even go up to 2.5. I use mine for a Unifi AP that didn't have a convenient Ethernet drop.
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Dec 4, 2022 02:59
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M_Gargantua posted:For such a simple application I'm really curious if there is some github repo with an open source equivalent. Unless what they are selling you is a target server they own that you can ping away at without annoying anyone? The original opensource app that started this kind of thing is called smokeping https://oss.oetiker.ch/smokeping/
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Dec 4, 2022 03:29
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Shugojin posted:
NETGEAR Nighthawk AC2300 NETGEAR CM700 As far as I can tell they're not having any issues, though I reset em both just to placate the people troubleshooting from the ISP. Honestly the issues popped up after weather rolled into the area, so I'm confident it's on the ISP end but they say they're not seeing any issues so I need to prove it to them. I have always kept my modem/router well ventilated and away from areas that will clog em with dust, so I think I should be able to get another couple of years or so out of them, even if I did get them in 2018. EDIT: Oh, and I keep the firmware updated on these things.
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Dec 4, 2022 08:49
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Shinjobi posted:NETGEAR Nighthawk AC2300 The NETGEAR CM700 is probably the issue. Those use an Intel Puma chipset that are notoriously bad/defective, odd that it only sprung up when bad weather hit though. I used to have an Intel chipset based modem when I had Spectrum and had the exact same issues you describe even with near perfect signal levels. When I switched my modem out they went away. YMMV of course. https://approvedmodemlist.com/intel-puma-6-modem-list-chipset-defects/ https://approvedmodemlist.com/charter-spectrum-approved-modems/
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Dec 4, 2022 09:08
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Prescription Combs posted:The NETGEAR CM700 is probably the issue. Those use an Intel Puma chipset that are notoriously bad/defective, odd that it only sprung up when bad weather hit though. I used to have an Intel chipset based modem when I had Spectrum and had the exact same issues you describe even with near perfect signal levels. When I switched my modem out they went away. YMMV of course. Is THAT why. I tried the CM1200 for all of two days before going back to an SB8200 back in 2020, and didn't do any digging into exactly *why* poo poo sucked, just figured I got a bum unit and would be best off going back to what I knew, but it looks like I dodged a bullet even THEN, too. Literally just Matrix-dodging my way through lovely DOCSIS hardware. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Dec 4, 2022 |
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Dec 4, 2022 15:25
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Eletriarnation posted:I think the key phrase you're looking for is "dual wireless headset for tv" - if I search Amazon for this I see a lot of units with one base station driving two sets of headphones, or in one case four sets. Avantree seems to be one of the more popular vendors. That's great! Thank you!
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Dec 4, 2022 15:51
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Do moca adapters work with a cable splitter? Ie, can I do Ethernet -> moca -> cable splitter -> 2x moca adapters -> 2x APs?
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Dec 4, 2022 18:09
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Residency Evil posted:Do moca adapters work with a cable splitter? Ie, can I do Ethernet -> moca -> cable splitter -> 2x moca adapters -> 2x APs? Yes, just make sure your splitter passes up to at least 1675MHz since MOCA uses the frequencies above 1GHz
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Dec 4, 2022 20:10
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SamDabbers posted:Yes, just make sure your splitter passes up to at least 1675MHz since MOCA uses the frequencies above 1GHz Awesome, thanks. Coax has enough bandwidth as well right?
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Dec 4, 2022 20:59
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Residency Evil posted:Awesome, thanks. Coax has enough bandwidth as well right? Current moca standard supports 2.5 gigabits from all clients
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Dec 4, 2022 21:30
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Anyone seen a sharp uptick in Edgerouter-X crashes? I'm on v2.0.9-hotfix.4. (I am considering rolling back to hotfix.2 to see if that remedies anything, but if that doesn't this Edgerouter might finally be on its last legs.)
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Dec 4, 2022 21:52
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I realised this last week that the random Internet drop outs I was getting a few times a day after upgrading my Wifi to Omada was due to my AdGuard DNS. A bit of reading people seem on the fence if AdGuard is actually good, I was using Pi-hole before. I didn’t have time to really dig into what broke it or why but it made me think is it easier/better to just switch to a paid DNS service? I’m mostly keen to avoid ads and tracking, I know privacy is out the window if you’re using a third party DNS anyway though.
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Dec 6, 2022 02:27
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Are the TP-LINK Deco 6E kits good? Costco has a tri-band 3-pack for $270 and it's going on a large rural, kinda hilly property. Speed isn't so important as it's supplied by a 1.5Mbps DSL (yikes!), although upgrading to Starlink may be possible in the future. Apparently a neighbor has it even though it says 2023 when I type in the address. The goal is for Wi-Fi calling to be available over most of the property as cell service from any provider is very very spotty. I am not an expert and this is a non-profit so I would be donating this, although I would be able to visit at least once a month, usually.
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Dec 6, 2022 03:38
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Like outdoors? you'd need to get a proper outdoor AP setup for that
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Dec 6, 2022 04:05
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The APs would be indoors. No wired backhaul though.
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Dec 6, 2022 12:12
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fletcher posted:Any suggestions for how to clean up this hot mess of cords that doesn't involve opening up the wall? The one above the coax is fiber and it's so drat thick, and there's a few extra feet of it coiled up and stuffed into the rack. Looks like a fun project. Could leave it how it is or stick them in some bendy pipe to keep it really easy, otherwise a set of star wars style raceways along the wall would look pretty good. I'm not sure how to transition from the wall into a raceway. I think I'd leave a couple wires sticking out honestly, that just go into the wall the way they already do. But your ambitions seem more stringent than mine.
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Dec 6, 2022 13:40
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Literally a Dog posted:The APs would be indoors. No wired backhaul though. No I mean you described a large and hilly property and then said you want wifi calling over most of it so it sounded like you wanted that outside to me
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Dec 6, 2022 13:53
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Shugojin posted:No I mean you described a large and hilly property and then said you want wifi calling over most of it so it sounded like you wanted that outside to me Oh I figured outdoor equipment meant resistant to the elements. Was hoping radio waves weren't picky like that.
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Dec 6, 2022 16:49
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Literally a Dog posted:Oh I figured outdoor equipment meant resistant to the elements. Was hoping radio waves weren't picky like that. Unfortunately they probably won't broadcast with enough power to get significantly beyond the walls. Indoor APs are in my experience fine for like, sitting on the porch outside and using your phone or setting up a camera out there, but far from strong enough to provide wifi in the way you seem to be describing. There are outdoor mesh APs that are reasonably element-resistant and can do this job, more or less, but: 1) definitely more money 2) you need to have power outlets at everywhere you would put an outdoor AP - I think a couple farmers who are customers of my company have set up solar + battery backup things because they wanted to keep internet radio going out on their fields when working lol 3) depending on the exact scale of this place you might end up needing to set up a point-to-multipoint system to do the backhaul portion between buildings and then blah blah blah it's a lot more is what i'm saying 4) again depending on the scale they still may not get all of it without a lot of weirdness for power Shugojin fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Dec 6, 2022 |
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Dec 6, 2022 17:19
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Oh bummer. That's way beyond my skill level / budget. I do have power everywhere
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Dec 6, 2022 18:33
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What would be the best setup if I wanted to make use of a cable coax splitter? My current setup is like this Layout [ Room 1] [ Dining Room ] [ Living Room ] Current setup: Coax cable comes in from outside the house to Room 1, along the wall in Dining Room, and finally connects to modem in Living Room. Modem connects to Wifi Router in Living Room From Wifi Router I've run a thin/flat style cat6 cable back through the Dining Room, into the Room 1 which connects to Gaming PC. Devices Gaming PC in Room 1 Modem in Living Room Wifi Router in Living Room Problem Been having speed issues on gaming PC. Troubleshooting showed that when connecting a laptop using ethernet directly in the living room (tried both combos of directly to modem and then laptop to router) that the speeds hit my ISPs advertised speeds. I bought a new PCI ethernet adapter (previously using motherbo8 built in one) and still haven't fixed the speed issues. So, this leads me to believe it's from the flat cat6 ethernet which I've read can have issues over distances. Also when I originally ran the cat6 ethernet through the last wall, I was a bit too forceful pushing it through the hole I drilled (drilled it to be just big enough to push through with a wire attached to it) and wonder if I damaged the end somehow. Question Recently I discovered that it looks like the coax cable in fact terminates in Room 1, and then has some kind of coax extension which runs the rest of the way. Could I put in a coax splitter where it terminates in Room 1 and then directly run that to my PC somehow? I could just have my modem and router sit in Room 1 but ideally it's in the living room for max wifi coverage (we have a TV with Amazon fire stick in the living room) How would I accomplish this? Buy another modem and just connect it to my gaming PC? Would there be issues having two modems on the same coax? Thanks! Oysters Autobio fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Dec 6, 2022 |
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Dec 6, 2022 19:39
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Have you tried using that cable with the laptop to confirm the issue is the cable? If so, just getting a new cable seems easiest. You shouldn't have length issues unless you're near the 100m spec limit and unless you have comically large rooms or a much too long cable that seems unlikely (I guess you could also try setting your NIC to 100mbit only and see if that helps). It is possible you damaged the shielding somehow. You can run networking over cable coax, you want to look for a pair of "moca bridge"s. You can't really do it with just a splitter though and I doubt your ISP is going to let you use two modems at once.
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Dec 6, 2022 21:44
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Howdy folks. First time poster in the this thread. I rarely post outside of Automotive Insanity, so please be gentle. My sister is asking for assistance placing additional cameras on her (rather large) property. Complications include a steel building for a house, and roughly 100 yards to the gate, which has no power out there at the moment. Crap internet, as well, to add to the fun. The main thing she's asking about right now is a camera at the previously-mentioned gate. I'm thinking some sort of PtP, but I haven't tried to mess with PtP/WAN stuff yet. There is a shop with power roughly halfway between the house and gate - could be used for relay. I've gotten a few thoughts from the general chat thread in Automotive Insanity (lot of other techies in there, too,) but was pointed in this direction for further advice. I don't know what sort of budget I'm looking at - I need to discuss further with my sister once I have even a general idea of $$. Basically in the discovery phase of this project, figuring out what's possible, and what it might cost. I am an IT guy, desktop stuff, not a network guy, but I do have a basic understanding of networking. I cabled up my own house before WiFi was cheap and fast. I was pointed at Ubiquiti's Nanostation outdoor APs as a possible solution. One on the house, one on the shop, and a buried ethernet cable to the gate to run a POE camera. If it turns out there's power at the gate, the PtP could be straight to the gate. Hell, if the outdoor AP is powerful enough, a true wireless WiFi camera might be possible, either from the house or the shop, depending on signal strength. Any thoughts experiences with products that would do the trick?
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Dec 7, 2022 00:12
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