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Ohhh, yeah if you just want to extend your miter gauge that's a different thing, sure. I was thinking you'd want to have plywood on both sides of the table saw blade, which requires a join somewhere and the front and back fences are important to keep the the saw slot from accidentally contracting and catching the blade.
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Nov 16, 2019 01:26
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JEEVES420 posted:Yes That’s literally the video that got me thinking about it. And yes I DO fully plan on making a full sled. I just think I could utilize the small footprint of a gauge with extended wood fence. Any advice on the best piece of wood to use for flatness?
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Nov 16, 2019 01:43
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baltic birch plywood is my go-to for keeps-its-dimensions, flat, smooth surface, easy to work with, and not too ridiculously expensive. They often have sheets for sale at woodcraft.
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Nov 16, 2019 01:54
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My small sleds have always been 1/2" MDF and it works very well. If you're doing the massive multi-day project sled with a bunch of ridiculous features, then it's definitely worth getting high-count plywood like baltic birch.
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Nov 16, 2019 07:25
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Hypnolobster posted:My small sleds have always been 1/2" MDF and it works very well. If you're doing the massive multi-day project sled with a bunch of ridiculous features, then it's definitely worth getting high-count plywood like baltic birch. Really depends on shop conditions. If your shop is a garage in a hot humid area, mdf will warp crazy fast. If you don't have high count plywood to use, pick your hardest hardwood in the scrap bin.
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Nov 16, 2019 07:51
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I honestly just haven't worked with MDF in the shop much, my main experience with it is having fasteners rip out of ikea furniture, and watching my old desk surface swell due to moisture from cold drinks because I never used a coaster. But yeah if you can keep it in reasonably dry conditions I bet its weight and smooth surface is an advantage for this application.
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Nov 16, 2019 07:58
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A crosscut sled is imo the single most useful shop fixture that you can easily make yourself in an hour and everyone with a table saw should build one! They turn the table saw from a good machine for ripping plywood into an incredibly useful, precise tool that cuts wider, straighter, cleaner, and more repeatably than the chopsaw. With a dado head, it's now also really fantastic tenoning and joinery machine. You can get much of that functionality out of a miter gauge, but a crosscut sled is going to be much safer and more accurate. I've never been super comfortable using a miter gauge for miters on the TS for some reason and instead usually use the bandsaw w/miter gauge or chop saw for angled cuts. Make the sled as wide as you practically can. I think mine will cut 30" wide and it's really nice for building case goods to be able to reliably cut something that wide square and not have to break out the circ saw/guide. I built one with a wider kerf to dado with, and it easily and precisely dados case sides for drawer runners/frames etc, and and with a good stop block clamped on it is how I make almost all my tenons as well. I think mine is made of some Ecuadorean hardwood plywood from Home depot that was fairly cheap and it's stayed flat. MDF does stay nice and flat but it is also heavy as hell and doesn't like being banged and bumped around. I can't find a pic right now, but I put a pretty simple groove along the top of the fence that a stopblock rides on. This method is good and simple and makes squaring everything up pretty easy: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/07/01/build-a-super-precise-tablesaw-crosscut-sled Mine has 2 wooden runners and honestly fitting those is a bit of a pain. If you've got some good T-track laying around that will make it much easier
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Nov 16, 2019 14:53
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Thanks. I do plan on making a sled. They are mega handy. I just wanted a quick mod to a miter gauge too. Question, my stock Dewalt miter gauge accessory that came with my job site saw has a little bit of horizontal play in the groove. I mean I’m talking like a millimeter, or less? But it does shift a little... is that normal / acceptable tolerance? [Edit] I just watched a video and apparently that’s a lot of movement and apparently I can rectify it with tape on one side of the rail. Feenix fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Nov 16, 2019 |
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Nov 16, 2019 15:56
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Feenix posted:Thanks. I do plan on making a sled. They are mega handy. I just wanted a quick mod to a miter gauge too. Masking tape is the answer to all "good enough" tolerances. Its even in the manual for several of my tools as a fix. In case your curious I took a picture of one of my miter gauges. Nothing fancy, right edge is about even with the right side of throat plate which lets me get a 45 cut without interference as well. Stop block with an alligator clamp. 
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Nov 17, 2019 00:01
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JEEVES420 posted:Masking tape is the answer to all "good enough" tolerances. Its even in the manual for several of my tools as a fix. I approve that miter gauge. Did it not come with a fence?
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Nov 17, 2019 01:10
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Incra miter gauges are life changing
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Nov 17, 2019 02:16
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4 layers of scotch tape did me right up.
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Nov 17, 2019 04:27
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Mr. Mambold posted:I approve that miter gauge. Did it not come with a fence? another $75 for the fence. Can always buy their fancy fence later. Incra are like legos, you don't have to buy the set but eventually you will have all the pieces. Incra fence on a Sawstop will trip it if your not careful...
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Nov 17, 2019 05:02
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Somehow in the past 300 years of cutting and drying red oak we stall can’t dry this poo poo properly?! This is tyool 2019 with computers and scientific drying schedules and fancy kilns and poo poo and this poo poo is honeycombed you he’ll. 4’ down a board this runs for at least 3’, not visible from either surface or either end and I AM GRUMPY. Do you know anything about the growing conditions it came from? Somewhat swampy areas? On an oak ridge, center of an unremarkable forest? I stopped harvesting Red Oak in areas where I thought that it might be too wet, as it does that "gap thing" (no matter what you do) when drying. My regular red oak gets cut, then thrown in the top of a barn to be shat on by birds until I decide to use it.
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Nov 17, 2019 07:18
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Blistex posted:Do you know anything about the growing conditions it came from? Somewhat swampy areas? On an oak ridge, center of an unremarkable forest? I stopped harvesting Red Oak in areas where I thought that it might be too wet, as it does that "gap thing" (no matter what you do) when drying. My regular red oak gets cut, then thrown in the top of a barn to be shat on by birds until I decide to use it. After doing some more reading about it, I am fairly certain it was dried too quickly. Clue #1 is that it's very flatsawn and by rights should have cupped, but didn't. Apparently when oak and other woods that need to be dried slowly are dried too quickly, the fibers on the outside of the board dry and set while the inside is still very wet. This is called case hardening and it is nice because it keeps the lumber flat (outside sets before it has time to cup) but bad because it can cause honeycombing and just general instability in the wood. As the still-wet interior of the board dries it needs to shrink, but the hard, dry outside of the board has already gotten as small as it wants to get, so the wet inside sort of shrinks inside the hard box of the dry exterior, and, not being able to shrink the whole board, something has to give and so you get the interior checking/honeycombing seen here. Most commonly a problem in thicker stock, and one of the main reasons (and it just takes forever to dry) you very very very rarely see oak thicker than 8/4 for sale. Despite probably not being bottomland stuff, I wonder if the timber could have been very wet (cut in the spring?) and how much that would contribute to the unequal drying of board interior/exterior? Historically, a lot of logging was done in winter because when the trees are dormant there is much less water in the trunk, so maybe this is more forgotten wisdom off the ancients? The more I read about drying lumber, the more I am convinced that it is the trickiest part of the tree>>>furniture continuum. Equal parts arcane art, operator skill, science and technical knowledge.
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Nov 17, 2019 15:31
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JEEVES420 posted:another $75 for the fence. Can always buy their fancy fence later. Incra are like legos, you don't have to buy the set but eventually you will have all the pieces. Huh to both those tidbits. I don't recall mine not having a fence option, and I've never played with a Sawstop. Not gonna scoff at Sawstop (knocks wood with nine fingers), woont be prudent.
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Nov 17, 2019 17:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have had checking close up, but not very often. Usually just surface checks in oak that only appeared if it got suuuper dry or sat in the sun. In your situation starting with green wood and air drying it, the checks are being caused by a loss of ~90+% of the water in the wood. Seasonal changes in humidity might be a 3-4% change in moisture content? Not nearly as big a deal as the huge moisture loss that caused the original checking. Older woodworking stuff written before kiln drying was commonly done pretty much always talk about wood movement in terms of shrinkage, and you probably should too in this situation. Kiln dried wood starts so dry we think about wood movement now as expansion and contraction, but in moving air dried wood into interior conditioned space, shrinkage is going to be 90% of the problem. What I'm screwing around with is pretty weird and not really in the theme of this thread but its wood and I really like the technical aspects of working it and yall have all the answers so apologies in advance to anyone who is annoyed by these type of posts. I was mostly worried about the wood expanding around the epoxy leaving a new gap along the epoxy which might not be easy to fill nicely, but I'm sure it would with a little sanding. Also new checking caused by the old checks not being able to close. It's really fun watching some checking occur naturally, trying to predict where it's going to show is hard. I think checking can be a really beautifully integrated part of something (and green wood is all I got so gently caress it!). I had a cookie from that fir I took down a while ago that I needed to get rid of/I wanted to see if I could put a hole in it. That shaping disc was not the jam I was hoping it would be so I just grabbed the chainsaw and grinder and did this in a couple hours on Friday. The checking is radiating out nicely already. I'll probably finish grinding it up some more, sand it a bit.. and then either put oil on it or burn it I'm not sure what yet Fir is gross and smells terrible to me, cedar 4 life   
Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Nov 17, 2019 |
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Nov 17, 2019 18:14
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Has routers been discussed lately? https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/tls/d/choctaw-stanley-45-plane-2-boxes-of/7021163642.html talking ultimate steampunk tool here
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Nov 17, 2019 18:25
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A tool relapse right before our very eyes. That is loving awesome though and probably at least 120 years old right?
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Nov 17, 2019 18:31
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:A tool relapse right before our very eyes. That is loving awesome though and probably at least 120 years old right? No idea how old. I think electric routers were invented maybe in the '40's? It puts me in awe though. And considering those planes were the go-to for, what, hundreds of years?
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Nov 17, 2019 18:36
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Mr. Mambold posted:No idea how old. I think electric routers were invented maybe in the '40's? It puts me in awe though. And considering those planes were the go-to for, what, hundreds of years? That's a post-1922 45, made of nickel-plated cast iron (hence the shine but little rusty bits showing through). They were sold well into the '60s alongside newer, cheaper aluminum models (with 'A 45' instead of 'No. 45' on the sides). They're wonderful and finding complete sets of blades to go with them is challenging. But yeah, besides the updated fasteners (wingnuts vs. knurled brass) and finish (plating vs. japanning) it's the same thing as the original 45s from the mid/late 1800s. Planes rule. Pissed Ape Sexist fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Nov 17, 2019 |
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Nov 17, 2019 19:12
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Elder Postsman posted:Picked up a beech cut-off from a local shop for $2 today. I'm gonna try to make a grooving plane out of it so I can build some drawers. Got the beech all flat and square  But before I go cutting this all up, I thought it smart to make a quick mock-up to make sure what I had in mind would actually, you know, work.  And I was rewarded with... a groove! 
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Nov 17, 2019 20:19
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Looks pretty good, but isn't the hole a bit small for a toilet seat?
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Nov 17, 2019 20:22
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nielsm posted:Looks pretty good, but isn't the hole a bit small for a toilet seat? Oh no that is just a bad picture its up to regulation, I can assure you the hole is a little over the industry standard at 8"
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Nov 17, 2019 20:29
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:What I'm screwing around with is pretty weird and not really in the theme of this thread but its wood and I really like the technical aspects of working it and yall have all the answers so apologies in advance to anyone who is annoyed by these type of posts. I like this! would look neat all sanded up and oiled. Waiting expectantly for the photoshops w/ hands and wedding ring. I really like the idea of wiring checks closed too. The best part of woodworking experiments is that no matter how badly you think you gently caress it up, it's always useful if you burn it. I'm in the opposite camp of where I think fir smells nice and (western red) cedar smells fuuuunky. I can't ever quite decide if it is nice funky or bad funky. Sometimes it has a greenish color too it that again I am not sure how I feel about. Elder Postsman posted:Got the beech all flat and square
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Nov 18, 2019 01:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This is super cool. Is the practice version just built up out of plywood? I've made one little block plane by gluing stuff together in the Krenov method but planemaking for real has always seemed really neat to me. Scratchstocks work and they are easy but making my own wooden planes seems like it would be super cool (and hard). The wedge is 1/4" plywood, the rest is just cut from a scrap of 1x4 pine. Gonna do one or two more practice ones to figure out how to make the shavings actually exit the plane instead of getting all bunched up. I was super impressed that it actually worked though!
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Nov 18, 2019 02:06
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I have all the basic tools: circular saw, radial arm saw, router, jigsaw, drill with every bit I might need, Dremel with wood bits, etc. I'm building a retro-futuristic jukebox with an art deco aesthetic using a 9" CRT as the display. This is my first real woodworking project that's planned and not "gently caress, part of the house is broken and I need to fix it," does anyone have advice for how to cut and fit complex curves to match the contour of the screen? Feel free to go as math-heavy as you want, I did a decent job in Calc II and am rusty but can read up if I need it. I also suspect that I'm overthinking it and can do much better by making it simpler. The TV model is JVC TM-9U for reference.
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Nov 18, 2019 02:40
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Make a pattern piece then use the router, with a trim bit with a bearing on it, to cut the work piece. The pattern piece can be something easy to shape like MDF, or just whatever scrap you have lying around that you don't care about; the point is that you can get it into shape without worrying that it looks aesthetically pretty. All it needs is to have the right shape and be thick enough for the bearing to ride on. As for measuring the CRT to get your pattern piece to be right...uh, make a conservative guess, then test fit until it's right. That's the best I got. 
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Nov 18, 2019 03:19
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Contour gauges and mockups of the curve cut out of cardstock or something, make your pattern from those and then router and hand fitting on the final piece
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Nov 18, 2019 03:50
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4 layers of masking, but it feels good, man... Sorry that was supposed to be animated. Whatever, take my word for it... no lateral slop.
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Nov 18, 2019 03:59
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GWBBQ posted:I have all the basic tools: circular saw, radial arm saw, router, jigsaw, drill with every bit I might need, Dremel with wood bits, etc. Cut to fit and fiddle with it to fit exactly is probably the answer like others have said, but depending on the finish you might look at bendaboard/bendable plywood. Still definitely gonna be some hand fitting, but if you were trying to make curved case sides and stuff it would probably make your life easier.
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Nov 18, 2019 04:11
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I’ve been waiting months to take a woodturning class, and today it finally happened. I’m weirdly proud of my new maple mallet.  
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Nov 18, 2019 04:43
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Baronash posted:I’ve been waiting months to take a woodturning class, and today it finally happened. I’m weirdly proud of my new maple mallet. That's a nice mallet One of my work colleagues has promised me a wood lathe as he's getting his dad's old one, so it's probably high time to learn how to use one I guess
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Nov 18, 2019 12:55
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Baronash posted:I’ve been waiting months to take a woodturning class, and today it finally happened. I’m weirdly proud of my new maple mallet. How / where did you find a class? I have my lathe setup and tried some basic turning and am pretty sure I should go take a class or at least find a way to spend some time watching someone in person do it and ask questions.
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Nov 18, 2019 14:31
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That Works posted:How / where did you find a class? Do you have a woodcraft near you? https://www.woodcraft.com/store_locations If you select a store, there should be a classes page, and there will most likely be a wood turning one.
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Nov 18, 2019 15:37
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AFewBricksShy posted:Do you have a woodcraft near you? There's one about an hour away. Looks like the only wood turning courses that fit my schedule coming up super quick are pen turning ones. They have one more my speed / wants but i'll have to wait until it comes up again. You were happy with the quality of the class etc? Just gonna be a long night with 2h of driving etc and the fee. I just want to make sure it'll be worth the time.
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Nov 18, 2019 15:48
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That Works posted:There's one about an hour away. Looks like the only wood turning courses that fit my schedule coming up super quick are pen turning ones. They have one more my speed / wants but i'll have to wait until it comes up again. I drove an hour and paid $75 for an "intro to hand plane" class, and I thought it was worth it. Here's what I posted about it. AFewBricksShy posted:I ended up signing up for that hand plane class at Woodcraft.
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Nov 18, 2019 15:56
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Hey ThatWorks, where are you located?
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Nov 18, 2019 15:59
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That Works posted:How / where did you find a class? I took a class at the Woodcraft store in Milwaukee. It was $110 for a six hour class, and they provided materials, tools, and the lathe. I was very happy with the instructor, and we were hands-on and turning within 45 minutes with frequent breaks over the next few hours for him to demonstrate different techniques. With only 5 people in the class, we each had a ton of 1-on-1 time, and he was willing to give a couple of us a lengthy sharpening demo after someone asked. It was definitely worth it, and I'm hoping to do a bowl turning class next month or early next year with the same dude.
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Nov 18, 2019 16:19
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I take and teach classes at my local Makerspace. Not guaranteed to have one in your area but if so might be worth checking out.
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Nov 18, 2019 16:29
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