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newtestleper
Oct 30, 2003
I'm looking to brew a Black IPA/IIPA this weekend. Does anyone have a good recipe to point me at?

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Syrinxx
Mar 28, 2002

Death is whimsical today

chemosh6969 posted:

3 out of 4 of my 5 and 6 gallon carboys are ties up with meads that I've been aging for a few years.
:catstare:

DontAskKant
Aug 13, 2011

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THINKING ABOUT THIS POST)

newtestleper posted:

I'm looking to brew a Black IPA/IIPA this weekend. Does anyone have a good recipe to point me at?

I liked mine. Just switch out the spelt for something. https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/old-world-cascadian-dark-ale

Edit: I can post a pdf for Korean rice "wine" (makgeolli) if people are interested.

On cider I've been using the Windsor yeast because it attenuates low and I can get it in Korea. Really wish I had room to keg though because even then my cider is so dry.

DontAskKant fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Apr 7, 2015

LaserWash
Jun 28, 2006

DontAskKant posted:

Edit: I can post a pdf for Korean rice "wine" (makgeolli) if people are interested.

I want. Also, have you tried making soju?

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

Sokrateez posted:

The concept of low alcohol brewing intrigues me. I love IPAs and Belgians in particular, like most homebrewers/craft drinkers, but much to the surprise of most of my friends, I don't really like getting drunk. One of my favourite local brews is Muskoka Detour, a "session IPA" at 4.6% ABV but all the hops of a beefy IPA.

I'd be interested to know if you can get the bold flavours of a tripel or IPA but stay in the 3-4% range, and if it requires some special techniques?

I've had a 3% ipa that is really good, and a 2% hoppy Amber ale recently that tasted like a full bodied regular midstrength. I think the decoction is probably the trick to the lower alcohol styles, to really concentrate the flavours, as well as balancing out the boo flavours with the malt and yeast phenols

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

newtestleper posted:

I'm looking to brew a Black IPA/IIPA this weekend. Does anyone have a good recipe to point me at?


Not handy but I do have a decent one that uses Carafa 3 and choc wheat. Solid as, I use something Pliny-esque for the hop schedule or alter it for something heady topper-esque. I basically just use the malt schedule for an imperial stout and hop the poo poo out of it

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

McSpergin posted:

Not handy but I do have a decent one that uses Carafa 3 and choc wheat. Solid as, I use something Pliny-esque for the hop schedule or alter it for something heady topper-esque. I basically just use the malt schedule for an imperial stout and hop the poo poo out of it

Alright I got motivated and turned my pc on, here's my black ipa. I did a run of big IPA's called the four horsemen of the Ahopalypse. This is death, plague is a brett/farmhouse Ipa, famine is an English ipa and war is a red rye IPA with the end of days being a massive iipa :)

Anyway, without further ado - death
81.2% British ale base (pearl/Maris otter)
4.4% caraaroma
3% Carafa 3
2.2% biscuit
3.7% pale chocolate or choc wheat
31.4 Ibu magnum @ 60
25.3 IBU simcoe at 30
7.4 Ibu of cascade, 17.1 Apollo, 11 centennial,
16.3 Columbus, and 12.7 of simcoe for a 30 min hop stand post boil

3G/L simcoe, 1.5g/l centennial Apollo chinook dry hop for 4 days

Basically it's my heady topper clone hop schedule paired with a modified smoked stout (no smoke)
Vermont ale owns in this, so does old Sonoma or any British ale malt especially a burton ale or Yorkshire ale with burton water profile. Alternatively something like an Irish/Dublin profile if you want the roastiness to come through more

DontAskKant
Aug 13, 2011

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THINKING ABOUT THIS POST)
My friends have made a good soju from their old makgeolli, but I haven't yet.

I'll try to post the pdf soon.

McSpergin posted:

I've had a 3% ipa that is really good, and a 2% hoppy Amber ale recently that tasted like a full bodied regular midstrength. I think the decoction is probably the trick to the lower alcohol styles, to really concentrate the flavours, as well as balancing out the boo flavours with the malt and yeast phenols

Can we get a recipe for those?

chemosh6969
Jul 3, 2004

code:
cat /dev/null > /etc/professionalism

I am in fact a massive asswagon.
Do not let me touch computer.

I can get all the wine bottles I need from my wife's work, so bottling isn't the problem. It's mostly being lazy.

I know the peach came out good but it's way too sweet, so I'll just use it as a base with some other stuff (suggestions welcome). It's kind of like when someone adds skittles to vodka to make it so sweet the alcohol taste goes away.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Jacobey000 posted:

I do 4-5 ciders once every year. I used to buy 10-15 gallons of cider from small farms and ferment their "drinking cider" and they came out okay. Then this past year ~50+ dudes bought 700 or more gallons in a big group buy. Holy poo poo. The difference in the cider is amazing, the farm pulled from their 'cider' trees and have a great blend to us that maked some of the best cider I've ever tasted. Work bought 5 gallons for vinegar (which came out amazing), I made 5 different styles and will most definitely be going into the buy again. If you are in/around Chicago, it'd be well worth it (and it's cheap ~$3/gal).

I need to get in on this next year. A couple meetings ago a few folks brought their ciders and I tried a few... so much apple flavor, holy crap.

newtestleper
Oct 30, 2003
Thanks for the recipes, guys. Love the idea of the four horseman of the ahopalypse.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
I've only done about 6 brews but I'm already sick of bottling. I know nothing about kegging. What do you guys recommend? Ideally I'd like to be able to have 2 or 3 brews on tap at a time. I do have a kegerator but it's only setup with one tap.

Glottis
May 29, 2002

No. It's necessary.
Yam Slacker

wandler20 posted:

I've only done about 6 brews but I'm already sick of bottling. I know nothing about kegging. What do you guys recommend? Ideally I'd like to be able to have 2 or 3 brews on tap at a time. I do have a kegerator but it's only setup with one tap.

Are you asking for recommendations on a new kegerator? What do you have now? Maybe it can be retrofitted to have 3 taps.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

Glottis posted:

Are you asking for recommendations on a new kegerator? What do you have now? Maybe it can be retrofitted to have 3 taps.

It's your basic kegerator you'd find on amazon (basically this: http://www.amazon.com/SPP155BDSS-Fr...words=kegerator)

If there is a way to convert that to be able to hand three 5 gallon kegs that would be ideal but I'm not sure if three would fit and then the tap/regulator situation.

I honestly haven't looked too much into it yet but thought maybe you guys could point me in the right direction.

I was also looking at something like this: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/draft-brewer-dual-keg-system-w-double-co2-regulator.html

wandler20 fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Apr 8, 2015

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004

wandler20 posted:

It's your basic kegerator you'd find on amazon (basically this: http://www.amazon.com/SPP155BDSS-Fr...words=kegerator)

If there is a way to convert that to be able to hand three 5 gallon kegs that would be ideal but I'm not sure if three would fit and then the tap/regulator situation.

I honestly haven't looked too much into it yet but thought maybe you guys could point me in the right direction.

I was also looking at something like this: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/draft-brewer-dual-keg-system-w-double-co2-regulator.html

Some of those can fit three kegs, some can only fit two. I bought a two tap unit that can hold three kegs so I can keep a third one ready to go when the first one kicks. Speaking of, I still keep forgetting to actually buy a third keg and my Bohemian Pilsner is about ready.

LaserWash
Jun 28, 2006
Fwiw,

I have three used kegs, always ball lock for me because of the shape/height.

I need to buy another two kegs to round out my keezer (building a collar next week for my 7 cubic foot freezer) and am waiting to pay some bills this month before I buy from here: https://bvrgelements.com/product/Ball-Lock-Used-5-Gallon-Keg-2-Pack/

Two ball locks, tested and shipped for $120 is pretty good. I bought two kegs off of a guy on eBay that is known for his high quality used kegs and that ran about $130 shipped to Texas from Oregon. I can attest to the quality of those used kegs.

Personally, new kegs and the kits are stupid wastes of money. I'd much rather spend my money on other homebrew stuff/more gadgets. :science::science::science::homebrew::homebrew::homebrew::homebrew:

LaserWash fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Apr 8, 2015

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
It looks like I can just buy a new tower with two faucets and slap it on my kegerator. I'll probably go with two instead of three to make sure I have room and do like rockcity with keeping a third in there if it fits. Quality used kegs seems like a much more attractive route than new.

As for actually kegging my beer, do I basically just put it in there when it's done fermenting and put CO2 to it and wait a couple weeks? I'll do some reading on this because like I said, I have no clue about kegging.

Flea Bargain
Dec 9, 2008

'Twas brillig


wandler20 posted:

It looks like I can just buy a new tower with two faucets and slap it on my kegerator. I'll probably go with two instead of three to make sure I have room and do like rockcity with keeping a third in there if it fits. Quality used kegs seems like a much more attractive route than new.

As for actually kegging my beer, do I basically just put it in there when it's done fermenting and put CO2 to it and wait a couple weeks? I'll do some reading on this because like I said, I have no clue about kegging.

There are two ways to go, the gas it up and leave it hooked up for a week method or the force carb method. The first is reliable and easy, the second is quick. Someone did a seriously fantastic write up about doing it using your reg gas dial but I'm on my phone and can't find it. Look that up and use it, I highly recommend it.

nullfunction
Jan 24, 2005

Nap Ghost

wildfire1 posted:

There are two ways to go, the gas it up and leave it hooked up for a week method or the force carb method. The first is reliable and easy, the second is quick. Someone did a seriously fantastic write up about doing it using your reg gas dial but I'm on my phone and can't find it. Look that up and use it, I highly recommend it.

For a few dollars more, you can also use a carbonation stone on the end of some extra gas line. Carbs up quickly without any of the hassle. Just make sure you get it to lay on the bottom of your corny, or you'll run into foaming issues.

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

DontAskKant posted:

My friends have made a good soju from their old makgeolli, but I haven't yet.

I'll try to post the pdf soon.


Can we get a recipe for those?

They're neither of my own recipe unfortunately. The Amber was brewed by Murrays Brewing? I think in Australia - retro rocket. And the ipa is done by the LHBS near my place so I'll ask them (I live 3 doors up from the junior brewer :agesilaus:)

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

McSpergin posted:

They're neither of my own recipe unfortunately. The Amber was brewed by Murrays Brewing? I think in Australia - retro rocket. And the ipa is done by the LHBS near my place so I'll ask them (I live 3 doors up from the junior brewer :agesilaus:)

Also just for a point of reference the best thing I've learnt in session brewing (I've done a few now) is to work at balancing out the flavours. Take a recipe that you know works and halve the grain used, halve everything. Work out what you need to do to keep all the flavours you liked! Something like a hef is a good start because the yeast does a lot of the work generating phenols, whereas something like an ipa is harder to do at a small abv because you've still got to balance malt and hop and make it taste like a big beer. Decoction or step mashing seems to be the go to, at least it's what I've done. My last English mild finished at 3.8% (thanks to Jo3sh for the recipe which I then bastardised based on advice from LHBS staff, who basically said "use flaked Barley for that English creamy mouthfeel), and my session hef will top out at 2.6 max.

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004
If you do decoction you probably want to back down your grain bill a little lower even because efficiency is typically higher than a standard mash. I just did a decoction on a Pilsner and way overshot my boil gravity because I kept my efficiency the same when I built the recipe.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS

wandler20 posted:

It looks like I can just buy a new tower with two faucets and slap it on my kegerator. I'll probably go with two instead of three to make sure I have room and do like rockcity with keeping a third in there if it fits. Quality used kegs seems like a much more attractive route than new.

As for actually kegging my beer, do I basically just put it in there when it's done fermenting and put CO2 to it and wait a couple weeks? I'll do some reading on this because like I said, I have no clue about kegging.

Measure your tower assembly - my keggerator has a non-standard sized tower, so I'd have to make an adapter if I wanted to easily add a new tower.

Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!

wandler20 posted:

It looks like I can just buy a new tower with two faucets and slap it on my kegerator.

I encourage you to spend a few extra bucks and get good forward-sealing faucets, like Perlicks. Or Ventmatics, if they ever actually make it back to market. The usual rear-sealing faucets are not great for a home kegerator as a little beer tends to pool in them, making them stick.

Zaepho
Oct 31, 2013

wandler20 posted:

I've only done about 6 brews but I'm already sick of bottling. I know nothing about kegging. What do you guys recommend? Ideally I'd like to be able to have 2 or 3 brews on tap at a time. I do have a kegerator but it's only setup with one tap.

Currently only 1 tap, planning for 5. it's a 21.5 cubic foot upright freezer. if i tried really hard I could fit 11 ball lock kegs in it (pin locks are wider and fit less). 6 balls fit perfectly on the floor with a ton of space for bottles/cans up top which is my general plan. I'm planning for a drip tray as well which is why there is so much space between the faucets and the stickers underneath.

I don't have any pics of the inside at the moment (it's a mess and needs some cleanup/routing of lines and some clever shelving hacks anyway) but having messed with a chest keezer, I'm really happy with the upright choice. I bought new so i had the hilarious problem of it not warming up as fast as I wanted it to when using it as a fermentation chamber for a batch. Just means another reason to actually build that fermentation chamber I've wanted for so long.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

wandler20 posted:

It looks like I can just buy a new tower with two faucets and slap it on my kegerator. I'll probably go with two instead of three to make sure I have room and do like rockcity with keeping a third in there if it fits. Quality used kegs seems like a much more attractive route than new.

As for actually kegging my beer, do I basically just put it in there when it's done fermenting and put CO2 to it and wait a couple weeks? I'll do some reading on this because like I said, I have no clue about kegging.

Basically, yeah. I typically do the "set and forget" method, which is just putting the beer on CO2 at serving pressure (I use about 10 PSI for most beers, depends on temp and desired carbonation) and leave it. It'll be carbonated in about a week. If I need to get something on tap ASAP, for a party or something, I'll do higher pressure (30 PSI usually) for 24-36 hours, then purge the pressure and set it to serving pressure. If you really want it done fast, you can put it on 30 PSI and roll the keg back and forth for 15 minutes or so.

As far as filling kegs goes: rack like you would rack to a bottling bucket (only without the priming sugar, of course). I sometimes like to purge the keg with CO2 beforehand. Once you've got the lid on, you'll want to purge the headspace of air -- connect the gas, disconnect it, and release the pressure. I like to do it 4-5 times since CO2 and air do mix, and there's so little headspace that it's not wasting much CO2.

Glottis
May 29, 2002

No. It's necessary.
Yam Slacker

more falafel please posted:

If you really want it done fast, you can put it on 30 PSI and roll the keg back and forth for 15 minutes or so.


Or if you are extremely impatient like me and REALLY want it done fast, you pick up shake the poo poo out of the keg while at 30 PSI. Keep in mind that whenever you put the PSI on your regulator higher than the serving pressure (usually 10 as more falafel please said), you risk overcarbonating. What you can do is put it at 30, shake for a minute or two, then put it at 10 and shake a bit more. You can shake all you want at 10 and it won't get overcarbonated but shaking it at 30 helps you get there faster.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS
Here you go

Josh Wow posted:

If I wasn't an idiot I would save this so somebody put it in the OP or copy it or something cause I'm on my phone and can't be assed to do real things but will type too much.

HOW TO FORCE CARB YOUR BEER LIKE A TOTAL BALLER:

1) Chill your beer to serving temperature. This means leaving it wherever you're chilling it for 24+ hours. Yes it can really take that long to fully chill 5 gallons of beer. Realistically it probably only takes 8-12 hours to fully chill 5 gallons to that temp but why risk it.

2) Purge the headspace of the keg. I do this by putting 20-25 psi top pressure on the keg then shutting off the CO2 supply and pulling the pressure relief valve. This helps drive out oxygen, any oxygen you have in your headspace will be driven into the beer when you shake the poo poo out of it in the next step. I do this 5 times.

3) Put 25-30 psi top pressure on the keg and shake it for 30 seconds. USE A TIMER WITH AN ALARM! This is science motherfuckers, if you want repeatable results use a repeatable method. It's extremely easy to overcarb your beer so take the extra steps to make sure that doesn't happen.

4) Shut off your CO2 supply at the tank but leave the valve from the regulator to the keg open. Continue shaking your keg and you'll see your pressure gauge drop. When the pressure gauge stops dropping that's how much CO2 is in equilibrium in your keg. Use a carbonation chart to see what volume you're at:

http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Carbonation_Volumes_Pressure_Temperature_Chart.pdf

If you aren't sure where you need to be carbonation wise look at the BJCP style guidelines and go somewhere around what they say.

5) If you're undercarbed turn on the CO2 supply and shake again for 10-15 seconds and repeat Step 4. Keep doing this until you're at the right carbonation. If you're overcarbed you probably shook for more than 30 seconds, use a timer.

6) If your kegerator is properly set up your equilibrium point for CO2 is the same as your serving pressure, so set the keg top pressure to your serving pressure. You have to wait for your beer to settle before serving or you'll just pour foam. 24 hours definitely does it, 8-12 hours is probably fine. Your first pint will be sediment so toss it, after that should be fairly clear beer.

Once you do it a few times you get a feel for where you need to be so you can shake longer than 30 sec initially and dial your setup in. Just remember that the volume of beer in the keg affects everything. If you have less volume you need to inject less CO2, and vice versa.

Marshmallow Blue
Apr 25, 2010
Has that been quoted like 6 times? Maybe it should hit the OP.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS
I'm not sure it'd be more visible there :v:

(but yes)

Cpt.Wacky
Apr 17, 2005

Zaepho posted:

I don't have any pics of the inside at the moment (it's a mess and needs some cleanup/routing of lines and some clever shelving hacks anyway) but having messed with a chest keezer, I'm really happy with the upright choice.

What do you like more about the upright vs chest freezer?

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
Thanks for all the kegging help guys. I'll be in Minneapolis this weekend so I'm hoping to make it to Northern Brewer or Midwest Supplies to pick up some supplies.

Glottis
May 29, 2002

No. It's necessary.
Yam Slacker

Cpt.Wacky posted:

What do you like more about the upright vs chest freezer?

I have only used a chest freezer, but an upright would be great for a few reasons, among which are (a) don't need to worry about temperature controllers / your poo poo freezing because the probe fell in the wrong spot, and (b) a lot easier to load things inside and out, also (c) you don't need to build a collar to add taps, just drill.

Zaepho
Oct 31, 2013

Cpt.Wacky posted:

What do you like more about the upright vs chest freezer?

Easier to get thing in and out of (easier on the back)
The Beer lines get the hell out of my way when i open the door (you can attach your collar to the lid to get this in a chest freezer)
11 ball lock capacity in a very small footprint because you expend vertically instead of horizontally.
The tap is at a really nice height vs a chest freezer which would be lower
Fewer Insulation issues. SO far (haven't been through a summer yet) I'm not running very often to keep the keezer at fridge temps, there is a lot less non-insulated area and the seal is significantly better (even better once i commit and caulk the 2 penetrations in the side walls I made for running temp probe and gas lines. The only non-insulated area will be the shanks themselves.

Flea Bargain
Dec 9, 2008

'Twas brillig


Josh Wow posted:


HOW TO FORCE CARB YOUR BEER LIKE A TOTAL BALLER:


Please put this in the op, it's what I was talking about earlier and it really is the best way to force carb.

ScaerCroe
Oct 6, 2006
IRRITANT
I had my first gratzer last night and it was absolutely incredible. Going to have to smoke my own malt (maybe pecan?) and try a gratzer-style small batch.

Josh Wow
Feb 28, 2005

We need more beer up here!

ScaerCroe posted:

I had my first gratzer last night and it was absolutely incredible. Going to have to smoke my own malt (maybe pecan?) and try a gratzer-style small batch.

I smoke my own malt for Rauchbiers, it rules. I've used combos of apple, pecan, hickory and cherrywood with good success. Go light on the cherry it's super intense. I'm hoping to do a mesquite smoked helles this summer based on a great beer Shiner used to make.

DontAskKant
Aug 13, 2011

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THINKING ABOUT THIS POST)
I was thinking about the gratzer thing too. Sitting a rack of wheat over some brisket probably wouldn't work.

Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!
I think I'll smoke some malt soon, just for fun. You definitely would not want to expose it to the temperatures at which you would smoke a brisket or a shoulder - but I just got an A-Maze-N (or however it's spelled) smoker tray, which makes very little heat. I use it inside the chamber of my barrel smoker with no other fire lit to make a reasonable cold smoke. You could spread malt out on a tray in a thin layer, then use the A-Maze-N to add smoke, stirring the malt every 30 minutes or so.

Just found these online - peat for smoking, if you wanted to make a whisky malt beer. I've used (Baird's?) peated malt before and liked it, but then again I like peat.

http://www.cookequip.co.uk/shop/89B2/peat-chunks-approx-3kg-sack

Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Apr 9, 2015

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Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!

Marshmallow Blue posted:

Has that been quoted like 6 times? Maybe it should hit the OP.

All right, I added it to the OP.

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