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Tomorrow I may or may not be picking up for my first bike http://www.fmscycles.com/2007-Suzuki-SV650S-inventory.htm?id=250911&used=1&vin=JS1VP53A272100936&unitShowroom=1326 Depending on how I like the test ride as i was only able to sit on it for about 15 minutes before they closes, KBB says retail is around 4k but prices are higher around where I live, you guys think I can ask for 5k even leaving me extra to buy boots? i couldnt ride it when I got there since it had been sitting for about 2 months and the battery was dead so Im thinking they wanna get it out?
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Apr 25, 2012 02:12
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| # ? May 27, 2024 15:12 |
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I'd offer ~4.8k and take it for 5k if they haggle back up. If they don't bite, buy this one: http://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/mcy/2913620202.html 
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Apr 25, 2012 02:35
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Got it for 4.8 after a little bit of haggling. Came out to 5.5 after all the bullshit taxes. I was going down the local highway at around 40mph from the dealership in 3rd. I decided to pass this car in the right lane going up a hill, I give it about another 1/4 turn on the throttle and before I knew it I was doing 75. 
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Apr 25, 2012 21:25
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Tenchrono posted:Got it for 4.8 after a little bit of haggling. Came out to 5.5 after all the bullshit taxes. Do not ever, under any circumstances, get on a supersport. Especially a liter bike. Your brain will pop the gently caress out of your skull.
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Apr 25, 2012 21:35
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If you want more of that hot throttle action, get a $7 R6 throttle tube.  That said, I miss my Ninja.  But the gf just got a great job offer. So a new bike might be in my near future. Evil laughter.
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Apr 25, 2012 21:43
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I think I might want to wait a few months since I only just got the license. The dude at the dealership said the last owner put racing springs in the front and gsxr spring in the back. I dont like the look of the tail light thing so i might be ordering a replacement for it tonight.
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Apr 25, 2012 21:50
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the walkin dude posted:If you want more of that hot throttle action, get a $7 R6 throttle tube. I don't know why people call them $7 throttle tubes. After shipping they're always $18 throttle tubes.  (God damnit why is it taking so long to get to my house.  )
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Apr 25, 2012 23:48
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the $7 price is to just get you in the door and succumb to buying one. even at $18 they're still worth it.  Who here has the Tuono mirrors on his/her SV650? My K1 sv came with one bar-end mirror that literally has a diameter of 1.5 inches long. Dismal. So I'm looking for alternatives... wondering if they do fit the stock 1st gen mirror screw holes. I'm looking for Tuono handlebars like the stocker, too. If I can't get a T, might as well outfit my SV a bit to appease the lust in me. 
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 02:07
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Theres a "dead zone" on the throttle where it doesnt give the engine gas at the very beginning of the twist, its free to move then clicks then you get the feedback. Is there a screw I can tighten under the endcap of the handlbar?
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Apr 26, 2012 02:08
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Tenchrono posted:Theres a "dead zone" on the throttle where it doesnt give the engine gas at the very beginning of the twist, its free to move then clicks then you get the feedback. Is there a screw I can tighten under the endcap of the handlbar? You need to adjust the throttle cable slack for that, there's unfortunately no screw to fix it. You do need a little bit of slack - you don't want it to be all or nothing or it will be way too twitchy at low speed / low throttle applications.
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Apr 26, 2012 02:10
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the walkin dude posted:Who here has the Tuono mirrors on his/her SV650? It'sa me!  They just screw in, no bullshit required. edit: What's a good street brake pad for an 07 SV? DEUCE SLUICE fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 02:26
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Those mirrors look awesome! I'm trying to find the perfect balance between function and form. It seems that they're always several inches from clipping mirrors when filtering. I might just go back to having bar end ones because I get a lot more visibility out of them, ironically enough. 
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Apr 26, 2012 02:39
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JP Money posted:You need to adjust the throttle cable slack for that, there's unfortunately no screw to fix it. You do need a little bit of slack - you don't want it to be all or nothing or it will be way too twitchy at low speed / low throttle applications. I just went out and looked at it and I see what you are talking about on the bike, But the throttle has a slight ability to move forward making me adjust my hand after I unclick it.
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Apr 26, 2012 02:41
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the walkin dude posted:Who here has the Tuono mirrors on his/her SV650? I just ordered Tuono mirrors from http://www.touringsportbmw.com/ this past Tuesday. They quoted me $21.99 each, around $55 shipped. $10-15 cheaper (after shipping) than anywhere else I could fine. I'm pretty excited to get them because I have some crappy bar-end mirrors too.
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Apr 26, 2012 03:26
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Sweet! Thanks for the linkup! Those mirrors can fit in 1st gens, right? Mirrors are swappable between the generations?
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Apr 26, 2012 03:51
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:
I run EBC HH pads. They do the job and seem to be "the standard" as far as pads go.
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Apr 26, 2012 04:58
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:It'sa me! Tell me how your right hand headlight/hazard switch works please.
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Apr 26, 2012 20:13
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Ziploc posted:Tell me how your right hand headlight/hazard switch works please. It's just a switch you can flick that turns the hazards (turn signals) on and off.
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Apr 26, 2012 20:34
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lowcrabdiet posted:It's just a switch you can flick that turns the hazards (turn signals) on and off. And they flash when you do so? Theres no position that turns off the headlight?
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Apr 27, 2012 17:05
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Ziploc posted:And they flash when you do so? Theres no position that turns off the headlight?  It's just a switch that turns the hazards on and off. The high beam/low beam switch is on the left side.
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Apr 27, 2012 17:08
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Ziploc posted:And they flash when you do so? Theres no position that turns off the headlight? Yeah, the turn signals flash just like on a car. Unfortunately there's no switch to completely turn off the headlights, but I'm sure you can wire that in yourself if you really wanted to.
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Apr 27, 2012 17:41
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the walkin dude posted:Sweet! Thanks for the linkup! Those mirrors can fit in 1st gens, right? Mirrors are swappable between the generations? Yup. I bought from touringsportbmw as well. invision posted:I run EBC HH pads. They do the job and seem to be "the standard" as far as pads go. Excellent. I'm getting a bit squealy up front...
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Apr 27, 2012 18:23
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Anybody want a Clymer Manual? Fifteen bucks shipped! Great shape, but a small stain on back cover and last few pages. email thebecktastic at gmail 
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Apr 27, 2012 19:59
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opengl128 posted:
Depending on what regions you look you in you can find quite a few different versions of the right hand switchgear for Suzuki's. Like yours with just a hazard switch. One with OFF/PositionLight/ON. And some places got no switch. I've kinda wanted an off switch for the headlight. (I like switches) 
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Apr 29, 2012 02:46
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Is it possible to adjust the fuel screw on a 1st gen SV while having it idle? Seems impossible to me after I checked out how everything is oriented. Doesn't even look like I can get at them without taking the airbox off.
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Apr 29, 2012 02:59
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 The second 1st gen R/R replacement for me. Finally the new bike is usable. Now the next iteration of my bike lunacy begins, with warm weather ploughing into WNY.
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Apr 29, 2012 07:56
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How much clearance should there be between the rotor and the brake pads? The first time I got to a stop light when I picked the bike up the other day was accidently let it fall over to the right, in grass thankfully; now when I walk the bike from my driveway to my garage I can hear a rubbing sound when the front wheel hits a certain spot.
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Apr 30, 2012 01:57
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Ziploc posted:Depending on what regions you look you in you can find quite a few different versions of the right hand switchgear for Suzuki's. If you get a Suzuki that got no changes between the UK and US (and presumably a few other places), you get one with a flash-to-pass switch, which is actually really handy.
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Apr 30, 2012 02:07
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Olde Weird Tip posted:If you get a Suzuki that got no changes between the UK and US (and presumably a few other places), you get one with a flash-to-pass switch, which is actually really handy. Already did that one. 
Ziploc fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Apr 30, 2012 |
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Apr 30, 2012 02:24
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Two, bumpin' uglies.  Both are different, and great bikes in their own ways. The one on the right (my gf's) has a quick-acceleration sprocket kit and a high handlebar, which makes it awesome for carving paths through the city. The one on the left (mine) has a lower-bending handlebar and higher rearsets, along with a BMW headlight/flyscreen, all of which makes it pretty good for highway commuting at the expense of some comfort. My plan is to convert it to be more like my gf's bike, meaning a higher-bending handlebar, plush aftermarket seat, and lower rearsets are in the planning. My gf's definitely happy about the new motorcycle arrangement. When I had my Ninja 636, she couldn't keep up with me (I'm an aggressive rider). Now we're just about even. The SV keeps me docile at above highway speed limits (where it starts to run out of steam) instead of furiously injecting lunacy like the Ninja. the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Apr 30, 2012 |
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Apr 30, 2012 02:57
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Tenchrono posted:How much clearance should there be between the rotor and the brake pads? The first time I got to a stop light when I picked the bike up the other day was accidently let it fall over to the right, in grass thankfully; now when I walk the bike from my driveway to my garage I can hear a rubbing sound when the front wheel hits a certain spot. It's fine as long as they don't actually brake. Mine makes a scraping sound too, especially after a few days of rain.
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Apr 30, 2012 10:48
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I find it stupid hard to want to sell this bike. Even cramped it's just so much loving fun. I'd get a v-strom but they're like the blandest motorcycles in existence.  What are my options for a taller seat? Would 2" taller be stupidly goofy? How about with bar risers for my GSXR front end?
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May 2, 2012 03:36
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I'm now having the same problem with my new SV. Gonna make it replicate my gf's hella-comfy SV. Plans: replace the current Coerce Hyperbar Low handlebar with a wider, taller Bikemaster Daytona replace the stock seat with something more plush (OEM gel seat is great!). drat that thing is ughlyyy replace OSF rearsets with stock N sets (this is more out of a desire for money though; stock rearsets are just fine for me) Anyone have an aftermarket / OEM gel seat for the 1st gen they'd like to get money for?
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 21:30 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 21:27
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Xovaan posted:I find it stupid hard to want to sell this bike. Even cramped it's just so much loving fun. I'd get a v-strom but they're like the blandest motorcycles in existence. Get, build, or mod a footpeg lowering kit http://www.sportouring.com/gallery.php?sectionHeaderActive=1000&rangeChoosen=426 http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98990 Make/order a tall seat: http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105082 http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/modify.htm Install anti-vib risers (reroute or get longer cables): http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.cgi?multicatlabel_id=79&multicatsublabel_id=269 Install bars with the right rise and bend. Once you get the ergos dialed in, you will never want to buy another bike. I cannot sell my KLR at this point because it is just about perfect after years of tweaking and testing.
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May 2, 2012 23:48
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I'm gonna have a shop reupholster my seat with 2" more foam or I'll do it myself with rebond foam and some epoxy. (Just found a local shop in Watsonville that will do it for $120 and they said it will be "extremely comfortable" when they're done... think I might do this!) My main concern is that already my pegs and toes scrape on tight turns and adding adjustable rearsets would likely make it worse. My bike seems like it can't even hit 45 degrees before I can feel my toes scrape with the balls of my feet on the pegs. I see that those rear sets do take this into consideration though and taper. I wonder how well this works though. I'm also wondering how much this has to do with my rear shock being from a Kawasaki 636. Would an improperly adjusted shock decrease the distance I have for leaning in turns? And for the risers, what would you recommend for brake lines? Also, how exactly do I install them onto a triple? And what bar would you recommend? (also thanks so much for all of this!) Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 00:59 on May 3, 2012 |
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May 3, 2012 00:30
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Lean off the bike more.  Well, the shock could be fine, I don't know. Your shock could alter the ride height either by having a different length or by having inadequate preload. More preload means the shock rides higher until the force on the shock exceeds the amount of load already placed on the shock (1 inch of preload = X kg of load already "factored in" before the spring is going to move any). It could also alter the ride height by allowing the bike to blow through its compression faster (not enough damping). Your front end could have the same issues (height, preload, compression). Most likely there is no problem, and you're just short on ground clearance so ya either make the most of what you've got or you get more ground clearance by doing unnatural things with your suspension. Raising the seat may be enough. As for risers, you'd need to convert your upper triple to something with handlebar clamps so you can use those risers. If you have clip-ons, you need Helibars/Apex adjustable riser clip-ons or some similar stuff. (I don't have experience with clip-ons.) I'd start by changing one thing, then look at the rest and see if it needs to change and how. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 02:02 on May 3, 2012 |
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May 3, 2012 02:00
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Sounds like a plan! Gonna do the seat first since I know that's pretty lovely. Also gonna look into some better rear sets as well since I'd rather have real ones instead of aluminum $30 plates. Have any tips on chain adjustment? I just looked at my chain and it's an inch out of spec.  I should inspect these things more. Do I just do equal turns with an allen wrench to adjust it or is there something more scientific I should be doing?
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May 3, 2012 02:13
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Xovaan posted:Have any tips on chain adjustment? I just looked at my chain and it's an inch out of spec. Ignore the swingarm markings, tighten the chain to spec and then measure from the rear axle to the swingarm pivot or something on either side to make sure the chain is straight with the sprockets. Err on the looser side and be aware that tension may vary at different parts of the chain as well as before/after you tighten down the axle. Are you really scraping peg everywhere on turns? I have rearsets on my SV and I'm pretty sure I'd be lowsiding before I touched those things down, especially just nonchalantly taking tight turns and stuff. Make sure you tuck your toes in and utilize the balls of your feet to control your weight.
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May 3, 2012 02:43
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I have an SV650n and my feet are size 12. It's nearly impossible for me to tuck my toes in because of my 35" inseam (which is why I'm getting a custom 2" taller seat made). Rearset riser plates work okay but they don't help comfort that much. 
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May 3, 2012 02:52
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Yeah you just need a taller seat. If you really can't find any good ways to do it, the local racer guys just use a flat racing seatpan and pile a bunch of the racing foam on top. Looks ghetto but works well.
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May 3, 2012 03:05
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