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8 Ball posted:I'm looking to get a smaller case but I have a non-modular PSU, is it worth spending some of my upgrade cash on a modular PSU to help alleviate problems with space?
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Jul 27, 2016 02:57
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LogicalFallacy posted:You are dreadfully misinformed. Fast sync is the argument for amd. G-sync is the nvidia one. Are you maybe getting "fast sync" confused with "FreeSync"?
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Jul 27, 2016 03:02
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I was able to pick up a Core i5 6500 at Micro Center for $179, stupidly thinking somehow that this was the recommended non-overclock one. Would it be worth returning it and spending $45~ more on a non-sale 6600 or do you all think I'm good? I'm working on putting together a mini-ITX 1080p gaming rig.
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Jul 27, 2016 03:40
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Shumagorath posted:How non-modular are we talking? If it's one of those monsters with the entire cord bundle attached at one point then I'd say yes. My Inwin Q500 was a monster of a case and that style of PSU would absolutely choke it. That was back in the top-mounting era when GPUs didn't need extra wiring - it would only be worse now. Yeah that's pretty much it, this is what I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020 (hydra in the 4th thumbnail)
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Jul 27, 2016 04:12
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Paul MaudDib posted:My suggestion would just be to buy an appropriate EVGA G2 and be done with it. The EVGA G2/P2 have pretty insane build quality and a 10-year warranty to back it up, it's vastly better than their entry-level units. Something like the G2 750W, newegg has them for $90 AR right now and if you order other parts you can do $25-off-$200 with coupon PP2016BTS if you pay through Paypal. I returned that $30 PSU, mostly because it wasn't modular, and talked myself out of buying the Corsair modular one they had there for ~$90. I did talk myself into doing some real research and investing in a new PSU sometime soon. RE: processors - I just upgraded from my 2500K today, and even before I've done a proper overclock and tweaked the settings the difference in streaming is night and day. I know people continue to swear by that i5, it's an amazing processor and I'm probably not done using it, but there are very real gains to be had.
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Jul 27, 2016 04:15
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Julie And Candy posted:I was able to pick up a Core i5 6500 at Micro Center for $179, stupidly thinking somehow that this was the recommended non-overclock one. Would it be worth returning it and spending $45~ more on a non-sale 6600 or do you all think I'm good? I'm working on putting together a mini-ITX 1080p gaming rig. I thought the i5-6500 is the recommended non-overclock one? Mine just arrived in the mail this morning. 
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Jul 27, 2016 04:50
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Julie And Candy posted:I was able to pick up a Core i5 6500 at Micro Center for $179, stupidly thinking somehow that this was the recommended non-overclock one. Would it be worth returning it and spending $45~ more on a non-sale 6600 or do you all think I'm good? I'm working on putting together a mini-ITX 1080p gaming rig. You're perfectly right, have a good time. The i5-6500 is the perfect non-overclocking Intel CPU. It's a good bit cheaper, barely slower, comes with a cooler, and has a 20W lower TDP compared to the 6600K. You also get to buy a cheaper H motherboard and DDR4-2133 memory. You're in the best value spot, people getting Ks just want to go fast.
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Jul 27, 2016 04:57
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Am I just confusing myself? Because pcpartpicker has separate entries for i5 6600 and i5 6600k, and at different price points http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117562&cm_re=i5_6600-_-19-117-562-_-Product http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117561&cm_re=i5_6600k-_-19-117-561-_-Product So what I'm asking is, is it worth spending the difference between an 15 6500 and an i5 6600 non-K foxy boxing babe fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 05:27
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Julie And Candy posted:Am I just confusing myself? Because pcpartpicker has separate entries for i5 6600 and i5 6600k, and at different price points No, you'd be paying $15 extra dollars for 100Mhz extra clockspeed. Basically nothing in real world applications.
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Jul 27, 2016 06:02
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Julie And Candy posted:Am I just confusing myself? Because pcpartpicker has separate entries for i5 6600 and i5 6600k, and at different price points Turbo clock on 6500 is 3.6, turbo clock on the 6600 is 3.9.
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Jul 27, 2016 06:03
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McCracAttack posted:Are you maybe getting "fast sync" confused with "FreeSync"?
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Jul 27, 2016 07:42
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WattsvilleBlues posted:It's running at 4.2GHz. I was thinking that half a decade of CPU iteration would provide a reasonable performance bump. I know Intel has been focusing on efficiency, power consumption and heat and so on but to think that 5 years on I'll not be much better off is a bit disappointing. Referencing my i5 3570K. Am I wasting my time with Kaby Lake?
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Jul 27, 2016 12:41
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I finished my build last night and in the process turned up short a header. The motherboard (ASRock B150M Pro4s) has only a single USB 2.0 header (supports two ports according to the spec), which I connected to the front chassis USB ports. The wifi card (Intel 7260HMWDTX1) apparently has bluetooth, which I didn't realize when I bought it. Bluetooth is enabled via a cable that runs from the wifi card to a USB 2.0 header. So it would appear that I have to choose between bluetooth or front panel USB 2.0. I don't really have a pressing need for Bluetooth, and worst case could just get a USB receiver, but it would be nice to have. Are USB 2.0 splitter cables a thing? All I can find are PCI expansion slots that have a pin-out. That would work, but for space reasons I'd rather not add another expansion card, and I don't need more rear USB ports.
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Jul 27, 2016 14:52
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Thanks again, goons!
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Jul 27, 2016 14:54
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Enigma posted:I finished my build last night and in the process turned up short a header. The motherboard (ASRock B150M Pro4s) has only a single USB 2.0 header (supports two ports according to the spec), which I connected to the front chassis USB ports. The wifi card (Intel 7260HMWDTX1) apparently has bluetooth, which I didn't realize when I bought it. Bluetooth is enabled via a cable that runs from the wifi card to a USB 2.0 header. So it would appear that I have to choose between bluetooth or front panel USB 2.0. I don't really have a pressing need for Bluetooth, and worst case could just get a USB receiver, but it would be nice to have. Do you have a spare 3.0 header by any chance? Adapters exist for that.
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Jul 27, 2016 15:04
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xthetenth posted:Do you have a spare 3.0 header by any chance? Adapters exist for that. Nope, only one USB 3.0 header, which is plugged into the front chassis USB 3.0 port. Edit: Spec for reference: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B150M%20Pro4S/?cat=Specifications Enigma fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 15:05
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Enigma posted:I finished my build last night and in the process turned up short a header. The motherboard (ASRock B150M Pro4s) has only a single USB 2.0 header (supports two ports according to the spec), which I connected to the front chassis USB ports. The wifi card (Intel 7260HMWDTX1) apparently has bluetooth, which I didn't realize when I bought it. Bluetooth is enabled via a cable that runs from the wifi card to a USB 2.0 header. So it would appear that I have to choose between bluetooth or front panel USB 2.0. I don't really have a pressing need for Bluetooth, and worst case could just get a USB receiver, but it would be nice to have. Not tried it myself, but I can't see any reason this wouldn't do the job: http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Pin-USB-H...FwAAOSwQupXVcB8 An actual USB hub that runs from a header and has headers as its output connections.
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Jul 27, 2016 15:32
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I've recently been getting the itch to upgrade my modest budget gaming PC and can't decide whether I should upgrade the CPU/Motherboard/RAM or upgrade the video card. Here's the system as it is today: CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor (OC'd to 4.3GHz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-970A-D3P ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (OC'd to 1866) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card Case: Thermaltake VL80001W2Z ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply Wireless Network Adapter: Netgear WNDA4100-100NAS USB 2.0 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter I'm guessing the thread will probably tell me to do the CPU/Motherboard/RAM (and probably power supply since I've got a cheapo) before the video card simply because there's not a lot of AMD activity in the thread at all. I eventually want to move up to a 1440p monitor and am thinking of the future. So here's my 2 proposed upgrade paths: CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory Or Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card Regardless of what I do I'm replacing the power supply and wifi dongle (I hate it hanging off the back and taking up a USB 3 port) with these Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter So the question is: should I go high end Intel and upgrade my graphics card later, or worry about the graphics card now and wait until later for the CPU? As it is, in 1080p I get 40-50 FPS in Metro: Last Light and 30-40FPS in Project CARS in the rain with a 40 car grid and 60fps+ in nice weather (both games settings maxed out aside from AA settings in PCars which can be confusing) What do you think? I'm looking at between $750-800 either way and can't make up my mind. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 15:57
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GutBomb posted:I've recently been getting the itch to upgrade my modest budget gaming PC and can't decide whether I should upgrade the CPU/Motherboard/RAM or upgrade the video card. Here's the system as it is today: Going the cpu/motherboard/ram route first would make more sense from a "replace the older gear first" point of view. You also stand to see something of a games performance increase moving to a cpu with stronger single core processing. Consider if you really need an i7. Unless you're doing multi-threaded work (ie not many games at all) an i5 6600k would be more than adequate.
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Jul 27, 2016 16:15
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Overminty posted:Going the cpu/motherboard/ram route first would make more sense from a "replace the older gear first" point of view. You also stand to see something of a games performance increase moving to a cpu with stronger single core processing. Consider if you really need an i7. Unless you're doing multi-threaded work (ie not many games at all) an i5 6600k would be more than adequate. That does reduce my upgrade cost by $100. Does the i7 add any longevity that I won't get with the i5, or are the benefits of the i7 over the i5 not likely to impact games in the next couple of years?
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Jul 27, 2016 16:22
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GutBomb posted:That does reduce my upgrade cost by $100. Does the i7 add any longevity that I won't get with the i5, or are the benefits of the i7 over the i5 not likely to impact games in the next couple of years? i7 has virtually no advantage over i5 for gaming, definitely nothing worth the price. It really shines as a workstation or a home server, but even for those things, an i5-6600k is probably more than enough. If you don't know of a specific reason to get an i7, then you probably just don't have one. The biggest reasons are related to its virtualization, which helps if you run virtual machines or emulation layers. I believe it helps with things like video encoding too.
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Jul 27, 2016 16:26
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Haquer posted:Err, you need an 8pin to go into that, the card might not even boot without it (hopefully) From what I was reading, the 8pin has a sense b spot to determine if a 6 or 8pin is plugged into it, and the card runs at the appropriate wattage. I'm not super familiar with it, but it sounded kind of legit. Is this way off?
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Jul 27, 2016 16:32
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Zero The Hero posted:i7 has virtually no advantage over i5 for gaming, definitely nothing worth the price. It really shines as a workstation or a home server, but even for those things, an i5-6600k is probably more than enough. If you don't know of a specific reason to get an i7, then you probably just don't have one. The biggest reasons are related to its virtualization, which helps if you run virtual machines or emulation layers. I believe it helps with things like video encoding too. Yeah I'm not doing anything of the sort. I'm just playing games. You've convinced me to go with the i5.
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Jul 27, 2016 16:52
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Dumbass buddy of mine wants to upgrade his PC. USA Using for gaming and video editing. I think he wants to keep it under $1000. He also does a lot of streaming and let's plays and poo poo. 1080p graphics at high/ultra with a LOT OF MODS. Specifically, this dude plays and streams heavily modded Fallout 4. Going forward, I'm sure he'll do the same with the upcoming version of Skyrim. Dude INSISTS on getting an i7 (though I tried and failed talking him down to an i5.) Dude also thinks that he needs "super fast memory," which is why I have that 3400 speed RAM on there. He is reusing the GPU, PSU, and case from a build I slapped together for him about a year and half ago. So this is what I came up with: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($43.53 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3400 Memory ($92.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: XFX TS 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $737.48 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-27 12:23 EDT-0400 Does this look alright to you guys?
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Jul 27, 2016 17:24
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betterinsodapop posted:Dumbass buddy of mine wants to upgrade his PC. It sounds like you already know what's wrong with it, are you just looking for us to agree with you? Because yes, I agree that it's a silly way to spend money, if he wants the best way to do "tons of mods and recording / streaming in CPU intensive ways" he should be looking at a 5820K so he gets more than 4 cores. "An i7 wish 'super fast memory' is a strange requirement list. Also, as I understand it, "Skyrim with ridiculous texture mods" is one of the few scenarios where one can use more than 4GB of VRAM right now.
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Jul 27, 2016 17:36
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Twerk from Home posted:It sounds like you already know what's wrong with it, are you just looking for us to agree with you? Because yes, I agree that it's a silly way to spend money, if he wants the best way to do "tons of mods and recording / streaming in CPU intensive ways" he should be looking at a 5820K so he gets more than 4 cores. "An i7 wish 'super fast memory' is a strange requirement list.
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Jul 27, 2016 17:46
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Arguments for/against boxy style (shoebox?) computer cases over traditional tower shapes?
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Jul 27, 2016 17:59
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Shumagorath posted:Sorry to quote on same page but this thread moves so fast. Any Define R5 owners able to comment on the stock fans and whether both on intake can feed a 120mm and 240mm radiator on exhaust? I'll have to mount both at the front as my PSU doesn't leave enough room for a 140mm fan in the bottom. I want enough pressure to be pushing air out of the other perforations near the motherboard. Hard for me to understand exactly what you're asking here. You plan to mount the fans on intake and the radiators on exhaust, with no fans on the radiators, and want to know if this is adequate? If I'm interpreting that correctly my recommendation would be to get some fans that are rated to provide good static pressure and mount them directly on the radiators even if you have to quiet them some by lowering voltage or using PWM. I'm not sure about the specs for the fans, but I have a Define S and the fans that come with it seem to be standard airflow-oriented ones that wouldn't provide lots of static pressure so I would recommend checking on that specifically. Assuming the fans are just normal airflow-optimized ones, the best approach may be to keep using them as intakes and put some SP fans directly on the radiators at exhaust in addition. WattsvilleBlues posted:Referencing my i5 3570K. Am I wasting my time with Kaby Lake? Totally depends on how hard you're pushing it, but probably so unless you have a high end GPU or really poorly CPU-optimized games that are keeping the 3570K at its limits. If you're capable of getting it a bit faster you could do some benchmarking comparisons and see if game performance is affected by going a few hundred MHz faster, because you won't get much more than that out of Kaby Lake unless there are huge surprises around the corner. Intel hasn't given us any indication that Kaby Lake will be noticeably faster at core functionality than Skylake, just that it will have some upgrades to side features. betterinsodapop posted:I just want to know if those brands/components are good for what they are, and that it will all work when we push the power button. He's a stubborn dumbass, I'm going to keep trying to convince him to go with an i5, but at the end of the day, it's his money. It should work and none of those components are a bad buy by themselves as far as I'm aware. You might want to go a little higher than a 550W PSU if you think he ever might want to add a second GPU or anything like that but it's more than adequate for what's shown. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 17:59
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I currently have a R9 280X and am trying to figure out what I should upgrade to. I am primarily doing 1080P gaming and am looking in the range of $200-300. I would think the RX 480 would be the right choice here but it seems to be difficult to find at the moment. Any suggestions? I'm not in a huge rush, just trying to make the best choice given my budget.
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Jul 27, 2016 18:04
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ErikTheRed posted:I currently have a R9 280X and am trying to figure out what I should upgrade to. I am primarily doing 1080P gaming and am looking in the range of $200-300. I would think the RX 480 would be the right choice here but it seems to be difficult to find at the moment. Any suggestions? I'm not in a huge rush, just trying to make the best choice given my budget. A 480 if you can find one under ~$230 and you have a FreeSync monitor. A GTX 1060 otherwise.
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Jul 27, 2016 18:09
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Neo_Crimson posted:A 480 if you can find one under ~$230 and you have a FreeSync monitor. A GTX 1060 otherwise. Is there anywhere besides PCPartPicker to track prices?
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Jul 27, 2016 18:12
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Nowinstock is good for tracking both stock and prices on the new GPUs.
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Jul 27, 2016 18:18
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Paul MaudDib posted:My suggestion would just be to buy an appropriate EVGA G2 and be done with it. The EVGA G2/P2 have pretty insane build quality and a 10-year warranty to back it up, it's vastly better than their entry-level units. Something like the G2 750W, newegg has them for $90 AR right now and if you order other parts you can do $25-off-$200 with coupon PP2016BTS if you pay through Paypal. I ended up going with the EVGA 750 G2, thanks for the heads up on that. Didn't have any other components to pair it with, as I've already bought them. So many components use way less power than they used to since the last time I really did a thorough check in on upgrading stuff, so I've been cruising with 500w for a long time. The last time I bought a PSU is the same year they introduced Bronze rating. A new power supply will last me basically... forever?
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Jul 27, 2016 18:28
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So I am going to upgrade soon, and would love some general advice. My motherboard (or something related to it) has started failing, and I figure if I'm going to fix it I might as well give myself an overhaul. I am currently running an i5 2500k OC'd to something like 3.3 with a 212evo, a 7870, 500gb ssd and 16gb of ram in an antec 900-2. I'm not sure what my power supply is right now but I know it's at least 4-5 years old and I'm going to prophylacticly replace it. I do need a new mass storage platter, and I'm open to a new case since the vents on mine are a pain in the rear end to clean, but that's really nitpicky. I'd like to keep the cost under 1k. I use dual monitors at 1080, so no need for any fancy graphic solutions, though I do have my eye on the 1070. A basic idea, but I am very open to suggestion and price reduction here: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($150.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($79.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Blue 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($429.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1067.83 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-27 13:33 EDT-0400
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Jul 27, 2016 18:34
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Badfinger posted:A new power supply will last me basically... forever? Nothing lasts forever, especially not if it has capacitors, but 10 years wouldn't be unreasonable. Yoda posted:So I am going to upgrade soon, and would love some general advice. My motherboard (or something related to it) has started failing, and I figure if I'm going to fix it I might as well give myself an overhaul. I am currently running an i5 2500k OC'd to something like 3.3 with a 212evo, a 7870, 500gb ssd and 16gb of ram in an antec 900-2. I'm not sure what my power supply is right now but I know it's at least 4-5 years old and I'm going to prophylacticly replace it. I do need a new mass storage platter, and I'm open to a new case since the vents on mine are a pain in the rear end to clean, but that's really nitpicky. I'd like to keep the cost under 1k. I use dual monitors at 1080, so no need for any fancy graphic solutions, though I do have my eye on the 1070. An irrelevant nitpick but 3.3 is stock on your 2500K so it's probably OCed to something higher. Less irrelevant is that your new build doesn't have a cooler unless you plan to steal that 212 Evo, which is a perfectly fine idea but you didn't say it so I wanted to make sure you know that the 6600K doesn't come with a stock one. I've heard that the Gigabyte 1070 is a bit louder than the other models so if others are available that may be a consideration. Looks like a good build overall though, basically the 4 years newer equivalent of what you have now.
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Jul 27, 2016 18:54
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lessthankyle posted:From what I was reading, the 8pin has a sense b spot to determine if a 6 or 8pin is plugged into it, and the card runs at the appropriate wattage. I'm not super familiar with it, but it sounded kind of legit. Is this way off? I think the card just checks if the extra 2 grounds are there. Basically 8pins are rated for 150, 6pin are for 75 (especially if the PSU only has a 6pin) so upgrade your PSU if you absolutely don't have one for safety's sake if nothing else.
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Jul 27, 2016 19:02
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Eletriarnation posted:Nothing lasts forever, especially not if it has capacitors, but 10 years wouldn't be unreasonable. Iit's probably at something closer to 4 then, I'm at work right now and I don't remember exactly where I set it, but somewhere mild/very stable. I do plan on keeping the 212, it's only about a year old. I believe other options are available other than the gigabyte 1070, I was just sorting the 1070's based on price. Will they ever hit that magical 379 msrp?
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Jul 27, 2016 19:03
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Eletriarnation posted:Nothing lasts forever, especially not if it has capacitors, but 10 years wouldn't be unreasonable. I know this is the Extremely Logical And Serious subforum, but perhaps even here there is room for hyperbole?
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Jul 27, 2016 19:05
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Badfinger posted:I know this is the Extremely Logical And Serious subforum, but perhaps even here there is room for hyperbole? No. And if your PSU does fail it is quite unlikely it will be the only component you have to replace because of it.
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Jul 27, 2016 19:26
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What are my options for finding a powerful video card that's low on noise? The rest of my case is pretty silent, my 7870 is currently the noisiest thing I've got. I'm not buying a new video card yet, I'll probably wait until I can buy a 4k monitor and a video card that can support 4k gaming, at which point a quiet video card probably won't even be an option. But I'd like to see what my options are
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Jul 27, 2016 19:31
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