|
STR posted:I have no idea what you're talking about. We all blow down here
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 14:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 9, 2024 17:25 |
|
|
Is there anything to be concerned about with this alternator bearing noise? Might have to turn your volume up. It doesn't have any play, it just sounds a little . . . dry, and every other alternator I've handled has been dead quiet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 18:52
|
|
|
Xy Hapu posted:Is there anything to be concerned about with this alternator bearing noise? Might have to turn your volume up. It doesn't have any play, it just sounds a little . . . dry, and every other alternator I've handled has been dead quiet. That last squeek at the end...
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 18:59
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Thanks guys for helping me ID that shifter knob.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 19:07
|
|
|
PS fluid chat! My '90s Isuzu camper presumably uses some form of ATF/Dexron/whatever. But I want to retrofit an electrohydraulic pump from a Volvo S40/V50. It's a thing that people do, per some DIY electric car forums. But the potential problem I didn't realize relates to mismatch of PS fluids. It seems my electrohydraulic pump came from a vehicle (Volvo S40/V50) needing Pentosin CHF202. I'm willing to buy more expensive fluid (the Pentosin) if it means my Volvo S40/V50 pump (P/N 5N513K514AD, allegedly model years 2004-2012) and my steering rack will survive. Can I just flush the old PS fluid out and "upgrade" to CHF202? I know it's a different fluid type altogether... Is there a middle-ground of some sort? Or is it the steering rack on the Volvos that really needed the Pentosin, and the pump probably doesn't give a crap if it has ATF or not?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 19:19
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:Air cooled? The driver certainly is, something you often don't find working on a $1600 car. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 19:30
|
|
|
French Canadian posted:PS fluid chat! Reading and looking at it all, looks like the pump wants the Pentosin...
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 20:08
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Reading and looking at it all, looks like the pump wants the Pentosin... In that case, what are the risks of running a high-end hydraulic fluid in an old steering rack that normally wants ATF? It's hard to search for this on the internet, because no one ever asks that question. They all want to do the reverse and run ATF in their fancy Euro cars.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 20:12
|
|
|
French Canadian posted:In that case, what are the risks of running a high-end hydraulic fluid in an old steering rack that normally wants ATF? Right, after re-reading my thought and your thoughts I see where you are getting at. Is it does the pump care or does the rack care?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 20:15
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Right, after re-reading my thought and your thoughts I see where you are getting at. Right. I want to believe the pump cares more...I dunno why the rack would care so much.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 20:18
|
|
|
French Canadian posted:Right. Add the usual disclaimer...looks like they might not be happy together even with a flush due to seals. If your rack is happy on Dex III or whatever the pump might be happy as well. But then one has to ask the question why require Pentosin to begin with? Are the qualities of it deliver greater "performance" per volume type of thing? Would the pump be less effective. Sorry, wish I could be more help. Pentosin isn't cheap, especially if you did a flush with it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 20:37
|
|
|
Binky used a pump out of a modern Mini for theirs, didn't they? Any chance that plays nice with generic power steering / ATF?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 20:47
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Add the usual disclaimer...looks like they might not be happy together even with a flush due to seals. If your rack is happy on Dex III or whatever the pump might be happy as well. I have a V50 and the pump is in a difficult spot to access, much less flush, so the Pentosin probably has some performance characteristics that are conducive to it lasting for 100K miles or whatever without being changed. I have to ask in re: the swap...why, though? Is there something wrong with the Isuzu stuff? Seems like reinventing the wheel if what's there from the factory is functional, especially since the pump is controlled by the CAN bus in those Volvos (for variable assist, I think) and just running it at whatever speed it runs at without the control messages may or may not produce favorable results. Could be cool if you get it to work but if there's nothing wrong with what's there it's going to do the same thing with more complexity IMO.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 21:15
|
|
|
zundfolge posted:I have a V50 and the pump is in a difficult spot to access, much less flush, so the Pentosin probably has some performance characteristics that are conducive to it lasting for 100K miles or whatever without being changed. Well, the current belt-driven PS pump is dead, and it has been really hard to find a bolt-on replacement. I wound up looking into this sort of DIY refit and it seemed like a reasonable thing that people do. The pump runs at 75% without CAN signal. It sounded like a good idea. I did find a used PS pump from the same model eventually. No idea how many miles on it. But I might go with that just to see if all is well in the steering system otherwise, before I start introducing weird fluids and blowing stuff up. Then if I feel the need I can eventually try the electrohydraulic pump. If I did try the electrohydraulic, I might start with ATF and just see if it feels like poo poo (I assume I could drive a few miles and just see if the concept works) and then possibly change the fluid if I notice something odd. I'd rather trash the electrohyd pump than the rack honestly. I do wonder if the newest synthetic ATFs or Dexrons or whatever are close enough to Pentosin CHF202 and won't affect things. I saw some people mention seal compatibility between fluids. I'm still searching on that one. edit: If the Pentosin is petroleum-based then it seems to have better universal material compatibility than ATF, which suggests that would be the one to try. And ATF might actually gently caress up the electro-pump if it's got some nuanced seals... https://www.efunda.com/designstandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=none&SC=Hydraulic%20Oil%2C%20Petroleum%20Base#mat French Canadian fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jan 20, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 21:21
|
|
|
Hello smart people. I hate cars and dream about going Street Fighter 2 Bonus Stage on mine every night. --- POS: 2012 Hyundai Genesis V6 3.8L Problem: Seat belt warning chime and dash indicator goes off even though I'm buckled up. It's intermittent: sometimes it's fine for days (this past weekend for example), sometimes it doesn't work the entire week, sometimes it'll work for some of the commute but then start chiming midway until the end, and sometimes it'll work for maybe all of 5 seconds. When it doesn't work, the pattern is always the same: a sequence of 6 chime+dash followed by ~20 seconds of silence and then it repeats. Buckling and unbuckling the belt has no effect. But it's intermittent and sometimes it will start responding normally and could stay that way anywhere from 3 seconds to entire days. I love it. Checklist of stuff I've tried so far:
So unless I've been blessed with multiple faulty seat belt buckles, I'm gonna go on a limb and say it isn't the buckle itself. I started messing with the passenger buckle because of the PODS error codes and did notice that sometimes I would see the passenger seat belt indicator flashing on the center console (not the dash). No sound is emitted when this happens, buckling the passenger belt makes it happy, and unbuckling makes it start flashing again. I see a "not calibrated" error code shown in the OBD2 scan but it's accompanied by comm error codes so I'm not sure if calibration is the root cause or a symptom. I believe this is also recent since I never noticed the passenger seat belt indicator going off before and I've driven plenty of times at night where it would be noticeable.. but I also never thought to look for it until after I saw the error codes in the scan. This is also intermittent. So with all that said: 1. Would a faulty "anything" (e.g. ECU) in the passenger seat cause the seat belt dash indicator light up + start chiming? I've been driving solo (lol no friends) every time things are working so I can't verify if the passenger not being buckled would make it ding + flash, as opposed to just flashing the indicator on the center console (with no warning chime). 2. I feel like it's a loose connection somewhere since the normal pattern of 6 chime/dashflashes will sometimes stop at 2 or 3 and I'll verify it's working by unbuckling and buckling a few times. But then it can come back any time after. Again, anywhere from nearly immediately to days. Since I don't think it's on the buckle itself, it's gonna be the wires underneath the seat (what the buckle plugs into) right? I hope not because it seems like a huge PITA to try and find. Part of the problem is the chime + dash light warnings only happen when the car is in motion (>5 mph). I don't know how else to check things. Is there any software that can read the status on everything so I can fiddle with it while it's parked in the driveway? 3. Dealer wants to take apart the center console cause they think the problem could be behind there. On a scale of 1-10, how full of poo poo are they? I've mentioned the PODS error code multiple times but they insist nothing of the sort is showing up in their diagnostics. 4. I'm not above disabling the speaker or whatever it is making the chime assuming it won't break anything else, but I wouldn't know where to start with that. Thanks for your time. I hate cars. --- [1] When I leave the buckle connector unplugged, I don't think it chimes anymore or the dash light ever comes on. However, the air bag indicator does stay on and that seems unsafe, so I've only driven around the neighborhood with it unplugged while testing. And it's been a while so I can't say 100% if the chime still happens. And even if it doesn't, the problem is intermittent so it's difficult to tell if anything actually changed. Also, I've read that once the air bag indicator comes on, you need to clear it using something other than cheapo OBD2 scanners you get off Amazon. It's a safety thing blah blah, but I've unplugged the buckle multiple times now and the air bag light always turns off when the buckle is plugged back in. I don't disconnect the battery when I'm doing this, but every time the car has been off for a few minutes since it takes a while to take the seat out. I mention this because this behavior is counter to everything I've read online. [2] Error codes:
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 06:27
|
|
|
Exhaust pipe has disconnected itself from the muffler on a 2010 Impreza. Will be calling around shops tomorrow, fully expecting many/all to tell us there's not enough metal left to just weld it back together and want to sell new exhaust pipe and/or muffler. Happy to pay for that if it is in fact the case, but figured I'd ask here whether that's necessary. While jiggling things around by hand shows that the parts are obviously disconnected, they still naturally press together enough that most/all of the exhaust is passing through the muffler, there isn't a 1cm gap or anything. Only noticed due to horrifying rattle under certain conditions. 
Kreez fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Jan 21, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 08:01
|
|
|
If you want a ghetto fix, maybe wire wool is the way to go? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7St7cZTLQQI Disclaimer: I am bad at cars, this may not be applicable to you
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 09:00
|
|
|
French Canadian posted:PS fluid chat! This is something people with MK2 Golfs have to deal with as it changed between years, from what I remember changing to Pentosin can cause the rack to leak if it was an Dextron 2 car but you can look it up if you want some info for changing between the two.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 13:49
|
|
|
Kreez posted:Exhaust pipe has disconnected itself from the muffler on a 2010 Impreza. You need a new muffler. Sorry.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 15:06
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:You need a new muffler. Sorry. Yeah. There's nothing left to weld to once they get to that point.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 16:24
|
|
|
Not sure this is the right thread so I'll start here and if it's the wrong spot I apologize., I'm not sure if there's a dealership thread. I've had my car at service with a Chevy dealer now for 39 calendar days for a warranty repair. I've heard the following so far from my service advisors since it's been there. Granted I can cut them some slack since they needed to rebuild the engine (at least that's what they told me). 1. I called around day 7 to get an update in which "We're still waiting on the parts". 2. I called around day 13 to get an update in which "There's a strike at the plant so we're still waiting on the parts, no ETA" 3.I found out by calling around day 17 that my advisor was fired and happened to stumble on a new one that was "still getting up to speed" 4. They had no loaners to offer until day 25, then they wanted to try to saddle me with a frickin Yukon (I drive a Cruze) 5. Got a realistic loaner day 26 6 . Called again around day 32, they finally got he parts but Advisor had no eta because they were backlogged with repairs and told me to check back next week 7. Got a call on day 39 that the car was ready Now I say all that to ask, do I have any kind of recourse with the dealership? Not talking like legal action, but is it ridiculous to ask for poo poo like "Extending my warranty" considering an entire payment cycle has completed while me not being able to use the car I'm paying for? Or do I pretty much have to suck it up and deal with it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 16:47
|
|
|
Good luck. The dealer had my wife's car for warranty for for like 4 months while parts were backordered. They ain't gonna do squat.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 17:04
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Good luck. The dealer had my wife's car for warranty for for like 4 months while parts were backordered. They ain't gonna do squat. Thanks. I figured I'm not going to get poo poo but I thought I would ask.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 17:05
|
|
|
You absolutely should have gotten a loaner day 1 for free. I'd at least try to get them to pay for car rental/taxi costs. I have no idea how to force them to give you recourse for that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 17:12
|
|
|
vyst posted:Not sure this is the right thread so I'll start here and if it's the wrong spot I apologize., I'm not sure if there's a dealership thread. I've had my car at service with a Chevy dealer now for 39 calendar days for a warranty repair. I've heard the following so far from my service advisors since it's been there. Granted I can cut them some slack since they needed to rebuild the engine (at least that's what they told me). Around day 2 you need to start being an rear end in a top hat. They owed you a loaner at that point.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 17:15
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Around day 2 you need to start being an rear end in a top hat. They owed you a loaner at that point. The response I got was "We don't have any available" and there was a queue and i wasn't at the top. The day i actually got one it was "my turn". Which sounds real lovely. I was extremely lucky that I had access to my retired parents' cars and i had the christmas break off of work so I'm not really out of pocket any money, just hassle.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 17:17
|
|
|
Yeah they did at least have my wife in a loaner the entire time, though they originally only wanted to cover it for 10 days (lol)
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 17:17
|
|
|
Our 2016 Honda Odyssey Elite was stolen but luckily recovered in just 48 hours. My wife is super shaken and being a bit paranoid about it. She's concerned that the thieves may have paired their own key fob to the car and could possibly steal it again since we are keeping it at the same address. I personally think its very unlikely due to the complexity and cost for the types of people who had our car for 48 hours over a weekend no less. But is there a way without special tools to check how many key fobs are active for my car? Or, is there a way for me to re-pair my existing key fobs while removing all others like a garage door opener reset.
Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jan 21, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 17:39
|
|
|
A 2016 elite?
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 18:05
|
|
|
Oh sorry cut and pasted from a Honda forum where there was more context. It’s a 2016 Honda Odyssey Elite.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 18:13
|
|
|
I doubt anything outside of a Honda dealership tool (or equivalent) could tell how many keys/fobs are paired, but there should absolutely be a process to start over from scratch and make it forget all existing keys. You might even be able to do it without any special tools.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 18:20
|
|
|
What can you guys tell me about plug and play remote starters? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0dM2d9UEtk&list=WL&index=8&t=0s https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGFWBFB/?coliid=I1Q9C03VOMLDEH&colid=1SBRL8QFZ9X4E&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Is this a terrible idea? There's a lot of options and installation videos but it's all new to me, I had no idea there were systems like this. This would be going into a 2013 F-150.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 18:21
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I doubt anything outside of a Honda dealership tool (or equivalent) could tell how many keys/fobs are paired, but there should absolutely be a process to start over from scratch and make it forget all existing keys. You might even be able to do it without any special tools. I searched around for pairing guides and some of them are pretty recently made but none of them are for modern Hondas. Only really old ones. I’m leaning towards a repairing process is not a user thing with modern anti theft :/
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 18:23
|
|
|
It really depends on the car. Some car makers are pretty friendly toward letting you pair fobs; they pretty much all universally erase existing ones when you do this. No clue on Honda though, I've never had one with factory keyless entry. Shaocaholica, did they actually drive it, or tow it? I'd be a bit shaken up if they drove it, since the chip in key (on Hondas in particular) isn't something a novice can get around too easily (not counting GM, where cutting a wire and some time will let you start/drive it). Does it still run with your original keys/fobs? I know an old trick on earlier Hondas with immobilizers was to swap in an engine computer from another car that was matched to the keys (or rather, the chips in the keys) they had, but I'm pretty sure that won't work on modern stuff. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jan 21, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 18:29
|
|
|
STR posted:It really depends on the car. Some car makers are pretty friendly toward letting you pair fobs; they pretty much all universally erase existing ones when you do this. I think Shaoca left a part out. They stole the keys and then came back for the van. Cops found the van while it was being driven around.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 19:14
|
|
|
candide posted:Hello smart people. I hate cars and dream about going Street Fighter 2 Bonus Stage on mine every night. I'm not familiar with Hyundai cars, but I've had two different BMWs give similar problems, and it was the "Passenger Seat Occupancy Mat" which is the sensor in between the seat covering and the foam. There were a LOT of 3 series recalled for this, though oddly neither one of mine. I beat up / worked with the dealer on the first one and got it mostly covered, the PA dealer was more of an rear end, so I ended up replacing the sensor myself and paying a different dealer to code it in to resolve the issue. Is that something worth investigating? Are there model specific forums On The Internet for that model? I've found a lot of information on the E90s from creatively enough, E90Post. A specific site might have more detailed information, if you can locate one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 19:25
|
|
|
vyst posted:Thanks. I figured I'm not going to get poo poo but I thought I would ask. For a variety of reasons, my WRX was at the dealership for the better part of a month while they fixed an SRS issue. The "why it took that long" doesn't matter, but they did give me a loaner car on day 1, and when I needed to leave the state, they got me a rental without complaint. Initially, they were actually eating 100% of the cost of labor too despite it not being a warranty issue, although a 3rd party ultimately ended up taking responsibility for it. In summary, your dealership dicked you over and while you probably don't have a lot of recourse going forward, I definitely wouldn't buy from them again. You might be able to get something if you write a lovely review on google/yelp/etc - my friend did that after a lovely service experience and they did what they could to make it right.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 19:43
|
|
|
STR posted:It really depends on the car. Some car makers are pretty friendly toward letting you pair fobs; they pretty much all universally erase existing ones when you do this. madeintaipei posted:I think Shaoca left a part out. They stole the keys and then came back for the van. Cops found the van while it was being driven around. Yeah sorry busy today. They were able to initially steal the car by stealing the key fob which was being returned to me via mail (dumb I know) so it was just sitting in a bubble mailer on my porch. I'm inclined to think that the average mail thief would not have the resources or desire to pair a new key fob in the 48 hours that they had the car. I guess if they had a buddy at a dealer but they would also have to pay them for new fob which is an added expense for little benefit. Not sure how tightly replacement fobs are secured at dealers for this reason so their staff aren't activating illegal duplicates.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 20:06
|
|
|
Well it turns out I need a ODBII tool to reprogram keys on a Honda. Plus it seems theres a function to check how many paired keys exist as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZYp1vhO3ts Of course the cost of one of these tools (a cheaper one than in the above video) is much less than dealer cost or even independent locksmith cost. Dealer: $180 just to reprogram existing 2 keys Locksmith: $110 just to reprogram existing 2 keys Tool: $100
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 00:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 9, 2024 17:25 |
|
|
My wife's 2013 Mazda3 could only be reprogrammed by the dealer, and it cost a fuckton. She lost one key and the other one got run over and exploded when she accidentally drove off with it on top of the car so we needed two new keys plus reprogramming and it came out to some absurd price. As far as I know there wasn't really even anything you could buy to do it yourself.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 15:46
|
|