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IOwnCalculus posted:Carvana and Carmax both have similar policies. If you do not trust your own ability to inspect the car in this timeframe, it is absolutely worth your time and money to pay for an independent inspection before you run out the clock / miles on the return period. This is where the MA Lemon law is nice. If it fails state inspection within 7 days of purchase and the fixes to get it to pass are more than 10% of the car's value then the buyer can void the sales contract. Applies to all cars, new or used, and to both those bought through a dealership as well as through a private seller. EDIT: Hail Satan!
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Mar 10, 2021 00:27
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I'm just gonna assume "hybrids are bad cuz batteries" are on the same level of zero-research hot take as "EVs are bad cuz coal plants"
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Mar 10, 2021 00:51
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feelix posted:I'm just gonna assume "hybrids are bad cuz batteries" are on the same level of zero-research hot take as "EVs are bad cuz coal plants" You can include "most solar panels are a net energy loss" to the list of hot takes that still expose some real issues with commercially successful green solutions. The vast majority of the manufacturing carbon cost is metal extraction, resulting in used reasonably fuel efficient cars almost always being the most environmentally friendly. It's amazing how many people are certain they need a more fuel efficient car to save money, and protect the environment and the result is the opposite.
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Mar 10, 2021 01:33
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Leperflesh posted:just signal boosting since I edited this after I posted it: any thoughts, plus or minus, on the Equinox? The Equinox is a perfectly good car but the diesel is a weird unicorn and not in a good way. The towing capacity of the equinox is 1500 lbs so if you are looking to haul anything more than a light trailer and a small load I'd pass.
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Mar 10, 2021 03:23
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I had a big seizure a month ago, out of nowhere. The doctors don't know why. It's not guaranteed but fortunately I do have a pretty good shot at not having more. That said, I can't drive until I'm six-months seizure-free, which seems like a perfectly fair and reasonable precaution. I mostly hope I'm not too anxious to drive even if/after the doctors say it's OK to. This got me thinking about self-driving cars, which I know nearly nothing about. Never been a fan of Tesla or Musk and his empty promises and timelines. And I personally rather enjoy driving manually. But this tech seems like it could be a big help both to folks with known consciousness-affecting neurological impairments, and also for the sudden unexpected stroke/seizure/etc on the road. Is there something out there now that's not like "fully automated" but more like "car will take over and save the day if you appear to be suddenly unconscious and driving into a tree/guardrail/pedestrian/other car"? My current car does have some basic safety features like "forward collision warning with accident mitigation" (auto-brake) but that seems unlikely to be sufficient for such a scenario.
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Mar 10, 2021 14:45
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Mr Interweb posted:uh...yeah, looks like the savings wasn't comparing the hybrid to the standard, but rather to the average car (which is at 27 mpg). The general trade-off with Hyundai/Kia when buying new compared to Honda/Toyota is more features and more warranty at the same price in exchange for lower resale value and a worse dealer experience. Reliability is about average now that Hyundai/Kia are phasing out their last generation of 4-cylinder engines, which were utter trash. I would not consider the compact Hyundai/Kia cars right now with a CVT, as they are the first Hyundai/Kia cars to come with CVTs, and reliability has been very poor. The Forte's CVT problems were enough to tank it behind Mini and Volkswagen in Consumer Reports' reliability rankings.
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Mar 10, 2021 15:30
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admiraldennis posted:My current car does have some basic safety features like "forward collision warning with accident mitigation" (auto-brake) but that seems unlikely to be sufficient for such a scenario. Depends on how you define "sufficient". That wouldn't stop you from a crash in that scenario but it would likely lessen the severity by applying the brakes when you're unable to. That could make a big difference on whether anyone is injured, or how severe those injuries would be. With that said, a full takeover is very tricky. You would need to be absolutely certain that a) what the driver is doing is wrong and b) the automated driver is going to do better. Current implementations (i.e. Tesla) already have big problems with things as simple as "offramps", "road markings in lovely condition", and "a semi in the middle of the loving road", so it seems quite likely anything on the market today could easily trigger a takeover when one is not warranted.
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Mar 10, 2021 16:19
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I’ve definitely been saved from more than a few fender bender/love taps because of my auto-brake. It always happened when I was looking around and the dude in front of me stopped or slowed down quicker than I expected.
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Mar 10, 2021 16:42
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For trade-ins: if you had some issues to fix (in my case a bumper and loose right windshield trim that has to be taped down) would you bother trying to get these fixed at a body shop (without insurance involved) or would you just take it to a place and see what you could get? My concern is that whatever it would cost to fix would not equal the unknown amount they might add to the offer should the problems not exist, but part of me has a legit suspicion my car isn’t exactly “fix up and sell” but more “sell it as-is for a couple thousand in profit”.
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Mar 10, 2021 16:49
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If it's not something you can fix (or make it 'look' fixed) yourself for under $100 in parts, leave it alone because the increased trade offer absolutely won't offset paying a body shop's labor.
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Mar 10, 2021 17:04
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life is killing me posted:For trade-ins: if you had some issues to fix (in my case a bumper and loose right windshield trim that has to be taped down) would you bother trying to get these fixed at a body shop (without insurance involved) or would you just take it to a place and see what you could get? My concern is that whatever it would cost to fix would not equal the unknown amount they might add to the offer should the problems not exist, but part of me has a legit suspicion my car isn’t exactly “fix up and sell” but more “sell it as-is for a couple thousand in profit”. The "secret" with trade ins: they don't really care. It's going to auction. It's no gonna be them fixing anything, keeping the car, marketing the car, etc. If it runs and drives and isn't an obvious deathtrap you're gonna get what it goes for at auction minus whatever percentage they do there. Then they're gonna play games with the "value" of your trade-in compared to the price of whatever car you are buying.
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Mar 10, 2021 17:05
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There are exceptions, they’ll often keep “the best” cars around for CPO/Used sales but generally they go off to auction. If you know your car is hot poo poo you can get a pretty okeydokey deal on it. Best to sell it privately though, and if the repair isn’t too onerous it’s worth doing because people balk at car sales at the stupidest things. One time my dad tried to sell a car and the guy walked because he didn’t have the decency to clean the mud off it (rain and construction nearby meant he got it dirty the day before).
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Mar 10, 2021 17:09
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Motronic posted:The "secret" with trade ins: they don't really care. It's going to auction. It's no gonna be them fixing anything, keeping the car, marketing the car, etc. jokes posted:There are exceptions, they’ll often keep “the best” cars around for CPO/Used sales but generally they go off to auction. If you know your car is hot poo poo you can get a pretty okeydokey deal on it. I forgot one other thing. The biggest problem which I've tried to get fixed but is too expensive is the lock motors. I have to manually unlock the car with the key in the keyhole, the keyfob doesn't do poo poo unless the car is unlocked already with the key...so it has to be unlocked and then it might lock with the keyfob or if I turn the key once it'll unlock the driver door and the rest can unlock with the keyfob. Ultimately it won't lock or unlock with the keyfob by itself so with a kid in a carseat this is a pain in the rear end and one of the chief reasons I'm selling the car because the lock motors went up 250% in price within a little over a year from roughly $260 to $650 loving EACH and gently caress that noise. Maybe some mom or dad with a teen can buy the fucker and it'll be attractive to them because it'll be harder for their kid to take passengers idfk. I didn't fix it when I had the chance (when the price per lock motor was $260) mainly because the mechanic was difficult to get a hold of on multiple follow-up attempts and life happened. So yeah this car is almost a lemon at this point and it's getting depressing. I'm not sure I can get more than $2k for it now at any dealership but maybe $3.5k privately.
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Mar 10, 2021 17:49
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Do not put money into a car with a $2,000 trade in value. That's not much above scrap price by weight. Just trade it in and move on with your life.
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Mar 10, 2021 17:53
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What kind of car is it, I missed that I think. This sounds suspiciously more like a problem with your key fob than the lock motor. edit: motronic also right
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Mar 10, 2021 17:54
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The Equinox is a perfectly good car but the diesel is a weird unicorn and not in a good way. The turbo 2.0 offers 3500 lbs, I had assumed the diesel would also be higher but turns out no.
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Mar 10, 2021 18:01
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Motronic posted:Do not put money into a car with a $2,000 trade in value. That's not much above scrap price by weight. Just trade it in and move on with your life. Good to know. I don't want to put money into it. I just had a few mechanical things fixed recently but that was it, before I was planning on trying to sell it this year even. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:What kind of car is it, I missed that I think. 2010 Acura TSX. Had it checked out by a mechanic, the keyfob does signal the locks (can hear the locks click and knock as if something is happening in there), it's just that the locks don't wanna do what they are told. It will open the trunk and unlock three of the doors if the car has already been unlocked manually with the key itself, but the driver's side rear passenger door lock is hosed and has to be locked and unlocked manually from the inside via reaching in. I just leave it locked these days but it's about a bitch to have to hold my toddler's hand and walk with him around to the driver door just to unlock the car so I can take him back around and get him in his car seat. I'd love it if it was a keyfob issue but the spare keyfob also experiences the same, and the mechanic took off the door panels to look at the lock motors themselves and informed me one of them needed replaced. Another Honda/Acura-specific shop (with a good reputation in the area) said it was three lock motors that were the issue so at $650 per that's $1950 before labor. e: so basically I'd rather just sell the fucker than spend $2k on fixing a problem that would not net me a return of the same value or maybe any return at all if trading in. I could get it fixed for a little over $2k and then try to trade it in and get...$2k more than likely so it'd be a wash life is killing me fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Mar 10, 2021 |
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Mar 10, 2021 18:15
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Godzilla07 posted:The general trade-off with Hyundai/Kia when buying new compared to Honda/Toyota is more features and more warranty at the same price in exchange for lower resale value and a worse dealer experience. Reliability is about average now that Hyundai/Kia are phasing out their last generation of 4-cylinder engines, which were utter trash. well that's unfortunate to hear dumb question though: what's a CVT?
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Mar 10, 2021 20:12
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Mr Interweb posted:well that's unfortunate to hear https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission
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Mar 10, 2021 20:33
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Mr Interweb posted:well that's unfortunate to hear A CVT is a continuously variable transmission. Instead of having discrete geared steps, it can vary between any gear ratio. This is theoretically a great thing. Gas engines have specific peaks of RPM, throttle, etc where they perform best (from an efficiency or power standpoint). A CVT means that the engine can stay where it operates best no matter what speed the wheels are going. You get good gas mileage and performance (even if the shifts feel weird), the manufacturer hits their fuel economy targets, all's well in the world. In practice, there's a lot that goes into making a good, reliable CVT. Some cars do pretty well - Toyota hybrids, for instance, use the electric motors and some mechanical engineering black magic to make a very simple and robust CVT (which is like 90% of why this thread loves Priuses so much). Other manufacturers have had a lot more issues, and if your transmission breaks, your car won't go. As a rule, avoid any manufacturer's first stab at making a CVT, and if you're buying used, check into transmission issues for a given model year before you throw down your money.
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Mar 10, 2021 20:54
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Space Gopher posted:A CVT is a continuously variable transmission. Instead of having discrete geared steps, it can vary between any gear ratio. ah gotcha, thanks. so a dealer just called with an offer for a carolla hybrid at $20k. that sounds like a good deal yes?
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Mar 10, 2021 22:00
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The Prius uses a thing called an eCVT which is a marketing term. It has zero functional relationship to a traditional CVT which is probably why it is actually reliable. It drives in a similar way, though, in that there are no gear shifts. if you are deeply bored and like transmissions there's a good explanation of how the whole thing works in this teardown video: https://www.autoevolution.com/news/this-is-how-toyota-prius-gearbox-works-video-63918.html#agal_0
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Mar 10, 2021 22:26
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There was a really great prius transmission interactive flash animation that did a great job of demonstrating the planetary gear system. I think it was here: http://eahart.com/prius/psd/ but I can’t check, because Flash. It was a good way to see how different it was than cvt’s amalgam of rubber bands and hope.
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Mar 10, 2021 22:39
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sorry, correction. the deal is actually closer to $19k if i buy with cash back, but $21k if i buy with 0% apr. not gonna lie, the cash back deal seems pretty good, but as someone who hates the idea of making large one time payments, is there anyway i can split that $19k into installments or something?
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Mar 11, 2021 02:17
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A loan from somewhere else.
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Mar 11, 2021 03:03
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Financing, yeah? Use them banks to spread out the payments. They charge a fee, but it doesn’t have to be that bad. You can shop around for it. “Cash back” means that they (essentially) reduce the cost of the car. It doesn’t mean you need to pay a single lump sum.
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Mar 11, 2021 03:04
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Mr Interweb posted:sorry, correction. the deal is actually closer to $19k if i buy with cash back, but $21k if i buy with 0% apr. What’s the deal? Didn’t see it on the last page Take the manufacturer rebate, and get cheap financing somewhere else like a credit union. Rates for A paper are sub 3% right now I think.
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Mar 11, 2021 03:05
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powderific posted:A loan from somewhere else. DNK posted:Financing, yeah? Use them banks to spread out the payments. They charge a fee, but it doesn’t have to be that bad. You can shop around for it. skipdogg posted:
but if i get a loan from a bank or credit union, won't i be losing any money i could be saving due to the interest they'd charge? quote:What’s the deal? Didn’t see it on the last page you didn't miss anything. it's just like i said, corolla hybrid 2021 for either: - $19k with cash back - $21k with 0% apr for 60 months
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Mar 11, 2021 03:52
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Mr Interweb posted:but if i get a loan from a bank or credit union, won't i be losing any money i could be saving due to the interest they'd charge? If you pay less than $2000 in interest, you end up ahead. If you're borrowing all 19,000, you break even at 4% (on a 5 year loan).
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Mar 11, 2021 03:56
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Any time I’ve bought a car that had cash incentives and 0% apr options, a credit union loan with the cash incentive has worked out to be the better deal by quite a bit. But it’s easy enough to run the numbers.
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Mar 11, 2021 04:14
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Deteriorata posted:If you pay less than $2000 in interest, you end up ahead. If you're borrowing all 19,000, you break even at 4% (on a 5 year loan). am i doing the math wrong again, cause at 4% for 19k, the annual rate comes $760?
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Mar 11, 2021 04:27
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Mr Interweb posted:am i doing the math wrong again, cause at 4% for 19k, the annual rate comes $760? You only pay interest on the remaining balance so you have to use a special formula that accounts for the decreasing balance
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Mar 11, 2021 04:29
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Mr Interweb posted:am i doing the math wrong again, cause at 4% for 19k, the annual rate comes $760? I'm using https://www.dollartimes.com/car-loan/19000 A 5 year loan of 19000 @ 4% = You will pay a total of $1,994.84 in interest $760 may be the interest in the first year of an amortized loan. I don't know where you got it.
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Mar 11, 2021 04:30
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feelix posted:You only pay interest on the remaining balance so you have to use a special formula that accounts for the decreasing balance Deteriorata posted:I'm using https://www.dollartimes.com/car-loan/19000 ah i see. quote:$760 may be the interest in the first year of an amortized loan. I don't know where you got it. i just multiplied 19k by 4% 
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Mar 11, 2021 04:42
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NARDS so that dealer did not mention that he put on one hell of an asterisk on that sticker price. he "forgot" to add taxes and registration and so the 18k in fact turns out to be *drumroll* OVER $24K 
Mr Interweb fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Mar 12, 2021 |
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Mar 12, 2021 03:44
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Mr Interweb posted:NARDS Every car ad I've ever seen or heard has included "Tax, tag and title not included". Not sure how you've gotten this far into the process thinking sticker price was going to include those things, especially if this is not your first car.
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Mar 12, 2021 03:59
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Kilonum posted:Every car ad I've ever seen or heard has included "Tax, tag and title not included". Not sure how you've gotten this far into the process thinking sticker price was going to include those things, especially if this is not your first car.
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Mar 12, 2021 04:08
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yeah i never bought a new car before. and even the car in question that i own was my mom's.
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Mar 12, 2021 04:11
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Yeah the taxes alone bend you over. Feel like I’ve gotta look for less of a truck than I think I can afford because for some the down payment by itself will barely cover half the taxes
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Mar 12, 2021 04:36
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oh also in my defense, i thought taxes and such were covered under "additional fees and accessories", but apparently not
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Mar 12, 2021 05:03
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