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Lutha Mahtin posted:Can someone link me to a guide on how to do this, or give me a more baby-level explanation? I am at a very beginner level when it comes to working with electronics components. I know what a screw terminal is, and I have a very basic understanding of how soldering works. Beyond that, I don't know how to identify "a soldered wire tip going into a screw-down terminal", why it's bad, or how to fix it. If there are other common wiring problems with these machines, I don't know about them either. Checking that specific thing means getting inside the machine and looking at the connections to both the control board and the power supply. What it means is, lots of times the manufacturers will add some solder to the ends of wires (for whatever reason) before those wires are inserted into the screw terminals. That's a huge no-no in the electrical world, because solder will deform easily under those conditions, and can end up creating a poor/loose/high resistance connection. That bad connection will generate heat, which in turn will make the connection even worse as the solder continues to deform, and more heat is generated, and eventually you can end up with melted terminal blocks or actual fire. This is all worst-case scenario stuff, but it absolutely can and does happen. If you're reasonably comfortable with a screwdriver, you don't have to be an electronics whiz to identify and fix wires like this. Open the printer up and remove one wire at a time to inspect it. The control board terminals usually have small slotted screws, and the power supply generally uses larger Phillips heads. Some machines will have terminal ends crimped on the PSU wires, in which case you shouldn't have to worry about those ones. If you do see that there's solder on a wire - and it will be quite obvious - just trim that part off and strip the end back a little bit so you've got clean strands and not a mass of solder. Re-insert the wire, tighten the terminal  VV Quite true, I've made a small correction to address that. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 12:05
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Overtightening terminals can also be a source of issues, but we're getting pretty far into the weeds at that point. Checking screw terminals like that should be on your routine maintenance checklist for every few hundred hours of printing or so.
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Mar 25, 2021 12:17
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Wibla posted:Overtightening terminals can also be a source of issues, but we're getting pretty far into the weeds at that point. After a couple melted terminals I've become a fan of putting ferrules on any wire being inserted into a screw terminal. Just seems so much more secure than shoving bare wire into the terminal and hoping it makes a good connection. And I have yet to have any terminal with a ferrule melt!
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Mar 25, 2021 14:40
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stevewm posted:After a couple melted terminals I've become a fan of putting ferrules on any wire being inserted into a screw terminal. Just seems so much more secure than shoving bare wire into the terminal and hoping it makes a good connection. And I have yet to have any terminal with a ferrule melt! This is sound advice. There's a reason why we use ferrules on almost everything in the industrial automation field 
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Mar 25, 2021 15:38
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NewFatMike posted:Think surgical gloves would work? I was thinking about these for a few home projects: That looks like what I have, more or less. I went with butyl rubber because 1) it’s the indicated barrier material for the acrylated esters in UV resin, and 2) it’s also good for the acids/bases I need better PPE for handling. Honestly though bare butyl rubber seems way too tacky, or doesn’t clean up properly with alcohol and/or soap, or something, idk- the gloves stick to everything and one another and quickly load up with dust after being cleaned. Maybe I need a better cleaning regimen, degreaser or sth. I do know that nitrile/neoprene gloves clean up very easily in comparison and don’t have the same dust-tracking issues, but they’re also not preferred for handling the sensitizers in resins, and if i’m reusing a pair of gloves many times i don’t wanna use a material that’s notably more permeable to the Bad Things that’ll permanently ruin the hobby for me Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 16:31
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unrelated: can anybody recommend any particular resins with particularly-high temperature resistance? I’ve heard of photopolymers that can withstand the heat of molten pewter once cured, and it’d be great to be able to directly print small casting jewellery/part moulds for low-melting metals.
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Mar 25, 2021 20:49
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Matterhackers have this for high temp, says it'll take 180C which isn't too bad. I've done pewter casts into plywood, so I don't see why this wouldn't work OK: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/peopoly-moai-hi-temp-resin-natural-1l/sk/MWE8AGLP
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Mar 25, 2021 21:00
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Ambrose Burnside posted:unrelated: can anybody recommend any particular resins with particularly-high temperature resistance? Don't know about casting e.g. pewter but Formlab's high temp resin handles somewhere north of 230C (requires special post-curing then a thermal post-cure to reach that.) Also it can't be rinsed for too long or it'll absorb IPA which will gently caress up the post cure. But if you can do the post-treatment, the result is slick and looks & feels more like some kind of glass than a polymer (also in a brittle way, so not good for load-bearing applications). It really does stand up to heat well.
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Mar 25, 2021 21:22
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The Eyes Have It posted:Don't know about casting e.g. pewter but Formlab's high temp resin handles somewhere north of 230C (requires special post-curing then a thermal post-cure to reach that.) Also it can't be rinsed for too long or it'll absorb IPA which will gently caress up the post cure. Sweet. Yeah, I think true pewters are probably out of bounds unless i can find a significantly more heat-resistant option; some do melt south of 230, but you need to get 50 degrees hotter to reach 'pouring temp'. There are 'pewter-alikes' that are lower-melting and better-suited; for example, a 40%tin/60% bismuth alloy is fully molten at 170C, so that still leaves room for that extra heating for the pour. these alloys also aren't nearly as nice to look at as proper pewter, probably duller, don't take a polish well, maybe odd colouration from the high bismuth, that kind of thing. I know I can make high-temp silicone moulds based on resin-printed models, and that lets me cast any pewter or even some zinc-aluminium based Zamak decorative alloys into a reusable mould w/ no overheating concerns, but I'd really like to try to make Directly-Printed Tooling work to some degree because it's just so drat convenient.
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Mar 25, 2021 22:43
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Also I've found an ideal application for experimenting with electroforming and 3D printed moulds/tooling: keycaps for mechanical keyboard builds. They'll all fit on my tiny build plate but you cna still pack a ton of detail into every key or requite die/mould given the printer resolution. There are multiple avenues to actually making the things, all of them in my wheelhouse or things i specifically wanna develop; direct pewter-casting keys is just one example. Another is making some extremely detailed/intricate Novelty Function Keys as resin prints, and then electroform over them, making a lightweight and strong copper part with phenomenal detail and none of the UV degradation/creep under load issues that bare prints have. You can embed precious stones in em and "grow" copper over them as organic-looking bezels, there's all sorts of cool poo poo I can borrow from the jewellery world. Or if I follow my original plan and focus on making copper electroformed tooling, instead of finished goods, I can make stamping + drawing press tools and produce caps from sheet metal, but i can worry about that once I've got all the intermediate poo poo (backfilling copper formed shells w a stiff low-melt alloy to give them backbone ) worked out and definitely viable Anyways; whatever I wanna do with keycaps is definitely achievable and in my wheelhouse, and nerds will throw frankly grotendous amounts of money at mechanical keyboard custom parts, so i could pick a much worse framework for my 3d printing gently caress-aroundery Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 23:48
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eltoozero posted:Looks to me like PTFE is notched from shark bite couplers and isn’t maintaining registration/seal against the nozzle allowing a “donut” of molten mass to form between the nozzle and the PTFE, seen it a hundred times. Rexxed posted:I doubt that's fans as much as some extrusion problem. I checked your post history and saw that you replaced the plastic extruder arm so that shouldn't be a problem any more, but I'd still maybe run an e-step check to make sure it's feeding properly, make sure the gear doesn't have shredded plastic built up in the teeth, check spring tension, and if you've been running abrasive stuff maybe make sure the bowden tube is seated correctly. I've even changed mine out before when I've had problems where I've had to pull a big blob of plastic back through it, just in case it messed the tube up or something (honestly, I don't think it did, but capricorn wasn't too pricey and seems to have tighter tolerances). It was one of these two things. Did the very scientific thing and changed multiple variables at once without testing, but cleaning the edge and re sealing the bowden tube and dialing in the spring tension while it was printing narrowed it down. I was sure my fan settings were too high, thus cooling the nozzle, thus limiting extrusion. Was working on a series of samples to make a post asking for help, but nah problem solved. Thanks. Printed something more fun instead of prototype bases to test it better: 
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Mar 25, 2021 23:53
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I've had to vary spring tension between brands of filament before so it could be that but the bowden getting loose is probably more likely if you don't hear clicking. This one fluoro yellow liked to just shred and jam because I guess it was more brittle and tended to spray out of the extruder like tiny confetti and make a wear spot. I had a few prints with a low extrusion band in the middle which were totally weird (I actually filled them in with a 3d printing pen since it wasn't enough to not use it).
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Mar 26, 2021 06:34
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Looking into getting a resin printer for miniatures. Not sure which printer to get, but I'm looking for something that prints with a relatively high level of quality since I will be disappointed with lots of little layer marks and inaccuracies in the print. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Mar 26, 2021 14:12
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Verisimilidude posted:Looking into getting a resin printer for miniatures. Not sure which printer to get, but I'm looking for something that prints with a relatively high level of quality since I will be disappointed with lots of little layer marks and inaccuracies in the print. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I've currently got two Elegoo Mars and so far I haven't been disappointed. I currently am awaiting the arrival of an Elegoo Mars 2, as well. I've printed far too many minis just with my OG Mars, I believe the OG Mars have color LCD 2k resolution screens while the Mars 2 (and its Pro variant) has a mono 2k screen (mono screens have a much longer lifespan before they need to be replaced, and also can theoretically cut print times almost in half). There are also printers out now with 4k screens that theoretically can give even higher detail, as I understand it. But even if you just went with an OG Mars or similar (I got both of mine pre-owned), I don't think you'd be disappointed.
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Mar 26, 2021 14:51
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I've currently got two Elegoo Mars and so far I haven't been disappointed. I currently am awaiting the arrival of an Elegoo Mars 2, as well. I've printed far too many minis just with my OG Mars, I believe the OG Mars have color LCD 2k resolution screens while the Mars 2 (and its Pro variant) has a mono 2k screen (mono screens have a much longer lifespan before they need to be replaced, and also can theoretically cut print times almost in half). There are also printers out now with 4k screens that theoretically can give even higher detail, as I understand it. But even if you just went with an OG Mars or similar (I got both of mine pre-owned), I don't think you'd be disappointed. Going off the specs of a Phrozen 4k (link) and the Elegoo Mars 2(link) is the roughly $70 difference between the two worth it, in your opinion? I don't mind spending a bit more, but there are other features that I don't know much about and would love some input on.
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Mar 26, 2021 14:59
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Verisimilidude posted:Going off the specs of a Phrozen 4k (link) and the Elegoo Mars 2(link) is the roughly $70 difference between the two worth it, in your opinion? I don't mind spending a bit more, but there are other features that I don't know much about and would love some input on. I have both (although my Elegoo is the M2P). Print quality they are pretty similar. The 4K wins out by a little bit, but honestly it’s hard to tell without a magnifying glass. But where the Mars wins out is in build quality and size. The Mars plate is a little bigger and has more Z space. The Mono 4K has some design issues like flexing build plate arms and inadequate tape on the touch screen controller meaning they often fall in front of the LCD during shipping. Sure it’s fixable, but the Mars is just engineered better and it’s more solid. If I were to get another, I’d go Mars. E: oh your link IS the pro. No question, get that. It’s all metal including the vat, not plastic like the mono 4K and it has a charcoal filter fan in the interior. Not even a contest at that point. E: E: holy poo poo the M2P is $70 cheaper?? Dayum. I may order another one... Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Mar 26, 2021 |
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Mar 26, 2021 17:45
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I've got the Mars 2 Pro as well, I can't compare to anything else but I've had no complaints with it, aside from everything being a bit engrish-y. Elegoo's customer service seems pretty good too, I haven't had any problems but I've seen plenty of people online getting replacement parts shipped to them for free.
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Mar 26, 2021 18:11
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Is there a slicer that lets me vary the amount of infill at certain spots on a print (or a relatively easy way of doing that in Autodesk Fusion 360 or another app)? I know you can set it up so it does less infill from bottom to top, but I want to specifically reinforce a couple of spots in something I'm making.
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Mar 26, 2021 18:19
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Yeah, I'll third the vote for going with the Elegoo printer, as I say I've got two OG Mars and been very happy with 'em thus far, and looking forward to when my Mars 2 arrives so I can print even more miniatures Also be sure to get a resin flex steel build plate attachment, it's completely changed both how and how often I use my resin printers. How in terms of no longer being worried about printing things flat on the build plate (because they'll pop right off when you flex it) and how often (because if you make sure to get a spare build plate or two, you can swap them out and keep on printing for as long as you have resin). Both Wham Bam and Fulament make sets for various printers now.
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Mar 26, 2021 18:22
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I got my Wham Bam plate in the mail yesterday and I'm excited to not have to chop things off the build plate any more. Glue should be cured this afternoon.
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Mar 26, 2021 18:27
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Is there a slicer that lets me vary the amount of infill at certain spots on a print (or a relatively easy way of doing that in Autodesk Fusion 360 or another app)? I know you can set it up so it does less infill from bottom to top, but I want to specifically reinforce a couple of spots in something I'm making. Trivial using modifier meshes in PrusaSlicer. Add modifier, adjust position, change type to infill, adjust infill style/percentage as needed. Since support painting is a thing I don’t get to have as much fun with them, but they’re quite neat. You can also “load” custom mesh(es) from STL which is a hot tip for any pro modelers. A caveat: don’t adjust perimeter count or it’ll carve out a section the shape of your mesh, you probably don’t want that.
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Mar 26, 2021 18:38
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Anyone here use lychee? I'm using chitubox, except when I have to generate supports then I'm doing that in prusaslicer. Not sure if I should put the effort Into learning it but I've heard some really positive things and like the supports that I've seen from the patreons I have that support it. How are auto supports/support for elegoo printers. Am I really going to have to gently caress around with support settings?
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Mar 26, 2021 20:37
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone here use lychee? I'm using chitubox, except when I have to generate supports then I'm doing that in prusaslicer. I've switched to it unless I run into a file with errors that is too big for netfabb. It would probably work fine but I dunno. Superstitious I guess. The auto supports are pretty good, and it has a neat feature that searches for islands and marks them so you don't hunt for them yourself. It's still not quite to let-the-thing-do-everything, but it does a great job. And it's a gently caress of a lot faster than Chitubox. For FDM I still use Prusaslicer though.
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Mar 26, 2021 20:53
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Neat, there are spare build plates and vats up on Amazon for the saturn. April is gonna be fun!
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Mar 26, 2021 22:24
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I installed my Wham Bam plate without realizing I needed to print a spacer first (elegoo mars 2 Pro). Help?
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Mar 27, 2021 00:43
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Toebone posted:I installed my Wham Bam plate without realizing I needed to print a spacer first (elegoo mars 2 Pro). Help? There's a lil spacer on thingiverse but I'm on my phone. Pretty explicitly labeled as a z spacer for the mars I think E: nevermind, think I found it on my phone https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4533310 w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Mar 27, 2021 |
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Mar 27, 2021 01:04
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Toebone posted:I installed my Wham Bam plate without realizing I needed to print a spacer first (elegoo mars 2 Pro). Help? A small piece of opaque tape (masking, electrical, etc.) stuck on the end of the target that breaks the Z limit sensor's beam will do in a pinch... or even permanently. I had to modify my first Anycubic Photon because there was a problem with the Z axis, and the piece of electrical tape I stuck on to offset the change in height is still serving its purpose for my friend that owns that particular machine now.
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Mar 27, 2021 01:41
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Nevermind, I was able to rig something up with a bit of plastic. First print with the flex plate is underway.
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Mar 27, 2021 01:48
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eltoozero posted:Trivial using modifier meshes in PrusaSlicer. Thanks, I'll give it a go - It's probably overkill for what I'm actually doing (just a little holder for dog poop bags and the scooper) but of course that's part of the fun, isn't it?
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Mar 27, 2021 09:09
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Is there a slicer that lets me vary the amount of infill at certain spots on a print (or a relatively easy way of doing that in Autodesk Fusion 360 or another app)? I know you can set it up so it does less infill from bottom to top, but I want to specifically reinforce a couple of spots in something I'm making. Have you tried Adaptive Cubic infill in PrusaSlicer? does sparse infill in the middle and dense infill closer to the the perimeters.
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Mar 27, 2021 09:23
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So I'm having this issue where my prints are separating from the brim. The brim stays stuck down nicely, but the main print curled up. Is there a setting to make them better connected, or is it just a cooling thing?
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Mar 27, 2021 11:07
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Grey Hunter posted:So I'm having this issue where my prints are separating from the brim. The brim stays stuck down nicely, but the main print curled up. Yes, usually there are settings for that. What slicer?
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Mar 27, 2021 12:04
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Doctor Zero posted:Yes, usually there are settings for that. What slicer? Cura
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Mar 27, 2021 12:09
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In Cura at least I think brims are just connected by a single adjacent line on the bottom layer, only rafts have adjustable interface with the part. I'll advocate again for BedWeld which cured 100% of my abs edge warping issues, on both enclosed printers where I spent weeks adjusting traditional things to make the bottom layer remain perfectly flat without success. Works like magic.
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Mar 27, 2021 14:21
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Grey Hunter posted:Cura Click on the gear for advanced settings and select 'brim distance.' likely it's set to 1 mm or something. Make it lower, or even zero. 
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Mar 27, 2021 14:25
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Remixed someone's giant clunky design to a more compact bolt together version, Ryobi 18v tool battery to pair of USB adapters  One of the adapters I had was faulty so there's only 1 in there while I wait for another to arrive, note these things run happily from about 9v up to over 25v so 18v is fine. And now I have 4 pairs of contacts spare so I'm going to think about what other tools I can make/power unnecessarily.
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Mar 27, 2021 14:46
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cakesmith handyman posted:
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Mar 27, 2021 15:53
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Acid Reflux posted:Checking that specific thing means getting inside the machine and looking at the connections to both the control board and the power supply. What it means is, lots of times the manufacturers will add some solder to the ends of wires (for whatever reason) before those wires are inserted into the screw terminals. That's a huge no-no in the electrical world, because solder will deform easily under those conditions, and can end up creating a poor/loose/high resistance connection. That bad connection will generate heat, which in turn will make the connection even worse as the solder continues to deform, and more heat is generated, and eventually you can end up with melted terminal blocks or actual fire. This is all worst-case scenario stuff, but it absolutely can and does happen. I understand how important it is not to burn my house down, and I am definitely going to check the wiring soon, but, uh, am I going to be OK if I turn my new toy on for a few hours before trying to figure out how to take the entire thing apart? I've spent most of my free time this week reading assembly guides, and doing tiny little adjustments to the axis arms, and tightening screws juuuust right, and I think I'm going to never actually print anything if I go any further down the rabbit hole of Ender upgrade tutorial videos 
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Mar 27, 2021 19:25
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Lutha Mahtin posted:I understand how important it is not to burn my house down, and I am definitely going to check the wiring soon, but, uh, am I going to be OK if I turn my new toy on for a few hours before trying to figure out how to take the entire thing apart? I've spent most of my free time this week reading assembly guides, and doing tiny little adjustments to the axis arms, and tightening screws juuuust right, and I think I'm going to never actually print anything if I go any further down the rabbit hole of Ender upgrade tutorial videos Yes. Just don't leave it unattended for like 8 hours. You want do so the stuff mentioned before you get comfortable leaving it out of sight and mind for long print runs.
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Mar 27, 2021 19:56
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I always mount smoke detectors near my printers.
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Mar 27, 2021 23:12
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