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I've had three failed attempts at a print. The brim footprint prints fine but the model itself fails to print. I've tried 30 degree angle and working up to heavy supports, same problem. This is just a variation of a similarly sized model I successfully printed Friday with no issues. Any insights?
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# ? Mar 28, 2021 20:51 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 14:17 |
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It'd probably help if we had a picture of the failed print if you can make one.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 00:59 |
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So uh...if you ever start getting weird stringy blobs after cleaning out your hot end, maybe make sure you've actually torqued the nozzle on the heaterblock. The hot end is stainless steel, that's all plastic
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 03:41 |
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https://www.etsy.com/listing/970847090/resinlapse-resin-3d-printer-timelapses Neat. Timelapse cable that works with some cameras to let you timelapse resin printing. I have no idea how it works, but it's 20 bucks and it might work with your camera, so feel free to check it out. I am completely unaffiliated with this, just wanted to share since I know we have a few resin printers here.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 06:56 |
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Bondematt posted:So uh...if you ever start getting weird stringy blobs after cleaning out your hot end, maybe make sure you've actually torqued the nozzle on the heaterblock. I've never done that before. Nope, I always remember to tighten the heat block against the heat break and the nozzle. I've did that before after I upgraded my printer with a new hotend. Forgot to check that the heat block was tight against the heat break. Made it about 2 hours into a 5 hour print before I discovered it. It was a disaster; had to use a heat gun and melt everything off so I could put the thing back together properly. I just about threw it all in the trash and bought a another new hotend.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 14:40 |
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:https://www.etsy.com/listing/970847090/resinlapse-resin-3d-printer-timelapses I saw that on Uncle Jessy's channel and it looks great in action. I don't have a nice camera though. ... yet.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 14:58 |
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Bondematt posted:So uh...if you ever start getting weird stringy blobs after cleaning out your hot end, maybe make sure you've actually torqued the nozzle on the heaterblock. I have definitely done that, though mine was a much smaller leak so I only discovered it when it sloooooowly began to leak down into the silicone sock and I could just heat the block up and scrape the block clean.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 15:17 |
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I've been having build plate adhesion issues since installing a Wham Bam plate on my elegoo mars 2 Pro. First test print stuck to the FEP, nothing on the build plate. I re-leveled the build plate, replaced the FEP when I noticed a small tear, and had a successful print. Second print, nothing on the build plate. Tried releveling again; third print, nothing on the build plate. Any other ideas for what may be causing it?
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 16:27 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:I've had three failed attempts at a print. The brim footprint prints fine but the model itself fails to print. I've tried 30 degree angle and working up to heavy supports, same problem. This is just a variation of a similarly sized model I successfully printed Friday with no issues. Any insights? Another day, another failed print. Same issue. Footprint stick to plate just fine Then just fails completely on the fep. It's like it isn't doing supports at all. After cleanup, here's the fep. It's cloudy, with a few slight bends but no obvious scratches. Do I need to replace this after a grand total of one successful print? How can these machines be more of a pain in the rear end to work on than motorcycles.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 18:55 |
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Post a screenshot of your sliced file and support structure.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 19:37 |
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I settled on the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k! It arrived today and I already have it up and running with the test print out of the box.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 20:31 |
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Sagebrush posted:Post a screenshot of your sliced file and support structure. Medium supports + raft. Upped the base layer exposure time to 60s and layer depth to 6, still failed.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 21:22 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:
Have you run an amerilabs print?
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 22:12 |
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had a problem with my first print. Tried the phrozen ring CTB file on the flash drive they give you. I would say 80% of the ring printed great, but it was stuck to the bottom of my resin tank when I found it. It must have come free from the flex bed I picked up at some point, otherwise I think it would've printed fine. Did I do something wrong? I picked up this flex bed and the surface does seem rather smooth.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 22:49 |
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Verisimilidude posted:had a problem with my first print. Tried the phrozen ring CTB file on the flash drive they give you. I would say 80% of the ring printed great, but it was stuck to the bottom of my resin tank when I found it. It must have come free from the flex bed I picked up at some point, otherwise I think it would've printed fine. Never print the ring. Sweet Jesus I’m sorry I forgot to tell you. It’s a REALLY lovely file. It has one large support that the build plate pushes down on while it prints. Some people report that it actually punctures the FEP. Check your FEP after. Print some other test file. ANY other file.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 23:23 |
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Doctor Zero posted:Never print the ring. Sweet Jesus I’m sorry I forgot to tell you. It’s a REALLY lovely file. It has one large support that the build plate pushes down on while it prints. Some people report that it actually punctures the FEP. lol well that's good to know!! I'm testing out a small goblin figure now
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 23:26 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:
Did you maybe cross contaminate your resin? I managed to do that on my first bottle and it was frustrating as hell to troubleshoot because I thought I was careful.
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# ? Mar 29, 2021 23:56 |
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I don't know how I would diagnose that, but I've filtered every repour and cleaned the fep after every failure, and christ there's been a lot of failures. Never let the vat stay filled over night and it stays out of direct sunlight. I tried the ameralabs town print and it's the same goddamn thing. It's like it prints the first layer then just shits the bed. It's one step forward three steps back with this thing. Edit: I also releveled the bed and did the "drum" soundwave test on the fep to try and eliminate those issues. Nothing. Springfield Fatts fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Mar 30, 2021 |
# ? Mar 30, 2021 00:10 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:I don't know how I would diagnose that, but I've filtered every repour and cleaned the fep after every failure, and christ there's been a lot of failures. Never let the vat stay filled over night and it stays out of direct sunlight. If you haven't already, clean your vat and then try putting a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil (some people have mentioned Rain-X works just as well) on the side of the FEP that's inside the vat (where the build plate makes contact with the FEP). Rub the oil all around the FEP with gloved fingers, let it sit for a couple minutes, gently wipe away any excess with a microfiber cloth (that you plan on never using again) and then refill the vat with resin and give it a try. I rarely if ever experience the kinds of print failures as seen in your pics since I found out about that little trick.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 00:20 |
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Firmware maybe?
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 00:25 |
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Update on my progress: I got the beast running a few days ago, and my first boat seems to have come out decently. I started another boat and stopped partway through so I could see what the infill looked like. I was curious because it looked like there were some wild strings as it was doing the internal crisscrosses, and sure enough when I did the partial boat there are odd lines sticking out here and there. Is that anything to worry about? There were a handful of wisps hanging off the outside of the full boat but I am also not totally sure if those ones were PLA or fur from my dog
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 00:59 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:Another day, another failed print. Same issue. I guess you never owned a British bike, huh? Okay, absolutely nothing changed since the successful print? You didn't relieved (between then) or anything? If not, here's what I recommend: 1. Make double sure you still have the 9 second (or whatever is was) exposure in your settings. Chitubox likes to blow away settings after an update. 2. What is the temperature where you are printing? Has it gotten colder recently? Have you been bringing the resin in from the garage and dumping it straight in the vat or something like that? Make sure that 1) your temp where the printer is remains steady higher than 70 degrees F. Warmer ideally. Don't dump cold resin in the vat without letting the temperature of the resin stabilize. Even a couple of degrees can make a difference. I usually put my resin bottle on a space heater (with a cork coaster) and warm it up for 5-10 minutes before I dump it in the vat. 3. How thick is your raft? Try increasing the hight of it. IIRC I usually use .25mm-.5 mm. It kind of looks like a temperature thing to me. Whenever I get something failing that 99% of the time it's 1) I hosed up the leveling or 2) the temperature dipped too low overnight.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 01:02 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:I don't know how I would diagnose that, but I've filtered every repour and cleaned the fep after every failure, and christ there's been a lot of failures. Never let the vat stay filled over night and it stays out of direct sunlight. Same for me, I honestly wouldn't have believed it if changing the resin hadn't fixed it. Just the only other variable, they should be good to go right out of the box.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 01:26 |
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So the ring ended up leaving a small dent on the bottom of the film in the resin tank, not sure if that’s why my two prints failed (they’re just leaving flat chunks of resin at the bottom of the vat now), trying a different stl in case there’s something wrong with the file I used before, and if that doesn’t work I’ll clean the whole machine and recalibrate it
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 02:35 |
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So I've been 3D printing for a long time, this past year I finally got into Resin printing and then bought another FDM printer, a CR-10. And then I 3D printed a lower for a vz61 Skorpion. Pretty happy with out it came out. Had to refactor the design a bunch because the original was a straight copy of the metal lower, and HTPLA is not metal and cannot be sliced as thin. Also had to design/print a replacement connector for my older Audis:
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 02:43 |
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Doctor Zero posted:I guess you never owned a British bike, huh? Two Triumphs actually, but they were both moderns. I'm a sucker for that triple. 1. Yeah, it is, and I'm using Lychee slicer so the chitubox thing isn't an issue. 2. It' been in the upper 60's but the printer is indoors and I have a space heater in the room it's in set to 85 when it's running. I'll try putting it on the heater, though. 3. The raft is set to 1mm thickness. I don't love the idea of dropping another 40 bucks on something that's had a very bad roi so far, but people say this green translucent poo poo is the hardest to work worth so maybe I'll get a bottle of grey before deciding to junk the thing.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 02:45 |
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You can get elegoo resin off Amazon for like 15 bucks shipped if you have prime. It goes on sale all the time.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 03:38 |
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Managed to get something to print with a different STL file, leading me to believe it had something to do with that file in particular. Found a better test print (the rook with the staircase in it) and tweaked some of the chitubox settings per some suggestions (increased bottom exposure time and regular exposure time), hopefully I'll wake up to a nice print tomorrow!
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 03:42 |
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Whats the go to gor cleaning a nozzle nowadays? still atmomic pull? Had a jam mid print and now Im getting bad flow with some tough PLA. what temp should I go for?
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 05:44 |
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With regular PLA, I heat it up to 215, cram in the bit of filament, let cool to 90 and yank. Not sure if the temps are the same for tough.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 13:17 |
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Well, thats a weird... Failure? The support has broken off at some point, but apparently after it had done its job. I now have the rest of the print kinda teetering when the nozzle goes over it....
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 15:44 |
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Print failed again, so I did a full tear down and cleaning. The FEP film is already somewhat bumpy and pitted, so I'm going to order more sheets. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacement sheets from Amazon? I'm looking at these which seem like they would work. I also recalibrated the z-axis. I wish the instructions in the manual or on the machine were more detailed! Trying another small/fast print to see what's up. If this doesn't work, I'm going to assume it's the FEP film since I keep finding stuff stuck to the bottom of the tank while only some things stick to the plate.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 17:06 |
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Verisimilidude posted:Print failed again, so I did a full tear down and cleaning. The FEP film is already somewhat bumpy and pitted, so I'm going to order more sheets. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacement sheets from Amazon? I'm looking at these which seem like they would work. I've got the non-4K version and I found very lightly sandpapering the steel build plate really help with the adhesion. I think I had 2-3 failures before I found that tip online and none (of that sort, anyway) since.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 17:20 |
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Unkempt posted:I've got the non-4K version and I found very lightly sandpapering the steel build plate really help with the adhesion. I think I had 2-3 failures before I found that tip online and none (of that sort, anyway) since. I did that as well since I'm using a flex plate I found online! Then I realized I had the flex plate on upside down and the rougher side was facing away from the vat, so hopefully all of these solutions help with this. Gonna try to hit up Home Depot later today for some PTFE lubricant as well just in case.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 17:23 |
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Got my first successful print! Printed this guy at 10mm just to test some settings. I would die for him!
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 19:28 |
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Verisimilidude posted:
Awesome! Yep, I'm going to go with Verisimilidude posted:I had the flex plate on upside down and the rougher side was facing away from the vat That'll do it.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 19:33 |
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Hello 3D printing thread! I am diving in head first to the world of 3D printing with a Flashforge Creator Pro and hope to scale up in the future to get another 3 or 4 that are in storage right now in production. I got the whole lot used for a deep discount, but due to space restrictions at the moment I am going to go with just one and then replace the nozzles and get the leveling and test prints done as soon as some PLA comes in (today, hopefully). I was recommended to use Simplify3D by the previous owner so I picked up a license and imported their profiles, but I'd also be curious if there is anything else I should keep an eye out for when getting started. I figure after a few benchmark prints I should be off to the races with printing whatever useful and useless doodads I can find on the various marketplaces.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 20:08 |
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Guys, don't put foreign fluids into your resin vats. FEP is pretty much clear Teflon and is plenty slippery enough on its own. If you're having adhesion problems, I *promise* you it's either because your plate isn't leveled as well as you think it is, or it's something in your settings, and not because the film isn't slick enough to let the print separate.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 20:15 |
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aldantefax posted:Hello 3D printing thread! I am diving in head first to the world of 3D printing with a Flashforge Creator Pro and hope to scale up in the future to get another 3 or 4 that are in storage right now in production. I got the whole lot used for a deep discount, but due to space restrictions at the moment I am going to go with just one and then replace the nozzles and get the leveling and test prints done as soon as some PLA comes in (today, hopefully). I have the previous machine to the creator pro. It's a solid machine. Many people will probably tell you that simplify3d isn't worth it anymore, but these machines don't work with cura or prusaslicer (easily, there's a hacky software stack). The left nozzle on mine was removed. I've never missed it, and kind of recommend you do the same. It lowers carriage weight, reducing ringing. This lets you speed it up and increase print quality. Also that style of dual extrusion is extremely finicky to align. If want it go ahead, but again, I've never actually missed it.
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 20:38 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 14:17 |
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Verisimilidude posted:Print failed again, so I did a full tear down and cleaning. The FEP film is already somewhat bumpy and pitted, so I'm going to order more sheets. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacement sheets from Amazon? I'm looking at these which seem like they would work. I recommend getting nFEP. I've switched to that where I can and I think it really helps. It's supposedly not as "sticky" as a regular FEP. https://www.amazon.com/Phrozen-nFEP...dustrial&sr=1-6
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# ? Mar 30, 2021 20:42 |