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Motronic posted:Really? What was it doing/not doing? I've been all in on Blue Monster tape plus Megalock on top since a friend of a friend plumber/boiler guy was like "this is all we do anymore, and it works every drat time with no callbacks" Wasn't doing its job, AKA keeping threads from leaking like a loving sieve. I used plenty on each on a whole basement worth of 2 inch steel pipe I needed to not leak and 50% of the fittings loving leaked. I had expected it to not leak so I didn't bother with any unions and got to take it all apart working backwards, then redo it all again, using rectorseal. Zero leaks. Threw the megaloc can out after that. It's not worth a cent IMO. If it was you wouldn't have to hedge your bets by making plumbers lasagna out of it and tape. One or the other should be enough.
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May 11, 2024 02:49
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Huh, that sucks. But like....."plumbers lasagna" (love the term) has been the standard for a long time now. These are just the new sweetheart products to do it with.
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May 11, 2024 02:55
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I was taught by a plumber of the old school how to seal threaded joints with flax and grease a long time ago, and I mostly use that. It is slow and fiddly to work with compared to modern methods but the definition of tried and true. I am deeply conservative at heart when I do plumbing for myself. I distrust newfangled methods and materials that haven't been in use for preferably a century. Sure I will use PEX and PEM when nothing else makes sense and when it comes to drains there's really no alternative to PVC most of the time but copper and brazing and brass and flax/grease is still what makes me happiest for some reason.
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May 11, 2024 07:53
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Regular thread tape and locktite thread dope. It never leaks if you do it right. I've always had issues with non swagelok compression fittings however. I used thread tape and blue dope on the pipe where the well comes in and had no leaks, whenever I used just tape it leaks about 1 in 3 times.
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May 11, 2024 13:24
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CarForumPoster posted:IDK who needs to know how to seal pipe thread for 100psi the first time but here goes: It sets up more than enough to seal many hundreds of PSI instantly upon assembly. If you're seriously worried about it setting up, use a quick spray of primer.
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May 11, 2024 15:33
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slidebite posted:I feel we talked about this not to terribly long ago. Loctite sealants are great. 565 is the common go-to here. Don't worry about "cure" time with pipe sealants. I've literally made a pipe bomb with this stuff (their tech guy does a demo with a co2 cartridge which always makes people flinch) within 1 minute after assembly, including repositioning multiple times as its pressurized. This is really helpful. One of the reused swivel joints on the CNC pneumatics is leaking. Ive got a replacement coming today but was hoping to fire it up today without any major leaks. I’ll Loctite it then give it a go.
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May 11, 2024 15:37
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Has anyone here made a transmission tear down table or pan? It looks like something I could make with some sheet metal and put on an existing workbench that I'd need to put at a slight incline. What am I missing? I already have some stainless sheet metal that should be big enough and I'd bend the edges or weld some angle iron then destroy some drill bits making a drain point. It looks like a better option than the $700 painted steel ones where I would expect paint shavings to contaminate things.
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May 11, 2024 16:12
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SpeedFreek posted:Has anyone here made a transmission tear down table or pan? I haven’t made one but I have opened up a transmission. Sounds like it’s your plan already but raised edges with the sides down sloping to a long channel with grills over the drain channel to catch your balls, snap rings, and everything else desperate to escape. Should be big enough you can set things out in order of removal.
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May 11, 2024 16:31
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CarForumPoster posted:Should be big enough you can set things out in order of removal. Does ATF eat oil based polyurethane finish?
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May 11, 2024 16:45
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I dunno but I would go unpainted. Heavy transmission parts will scratch the gently caress out of it even if the ATF doesn't eat it. Definitely make the drain holes small enough to catch the tiny parts you care about. You don't truly need it to be big if you're only doing it occasionally, my usual thing is to disassemble it in stages and clean all my parts by group, like super clean, and then set them out on another clean workbench on new shop towels in order. I usually use a nicely cleaned drip pan (the metal ones that are like 2 by 3 feet) for assembly to catch all the drops of whatever fluid I'm presoaking my parts in. If you're a part timer like me on transmission building, the bottom of a 2L soda bottle and the bottom of a gallon water jug are decent for soaking parts in fluid, if you need to soak larger parts maybe try like a random goodwill baking pan or something.
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May 11, 2024 17:37
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I picked up a Motive power bleeder for solo brake-bleeding work... is it supposed to build pressure when there's no fluid in it? I hooked up the adapter to the master cylinder and pumped it and no pressure built up, then I pinched off the hose to see if I had a leak but it still wouldn't build pressure. I thought it should build pressure whether it has fluid or not, but maybe it needs fluid to seal. It's new, so whatever seals are in it are probably dry, but I'd like to figure out if mine is broken before put brake fluid in it and make a mess.
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May 15, 2024 17:40
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Yes, it should build pressure with no fluid. They specifically call that out in the setup procedure - connect it up, pressurize with no fluid, make sure it holds pressure. Seals could be dry, but most of the time for me, it's the goddamn cap. I had to use the seal from an actual reservoir cap (and then buy a new one...) to get the cap to seal on my GMC.
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May 15, 2024 18:09
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Ugh, that's what I thought. The pump is basically the same as weed sprayers I've used, and those will pressurize when dry. The adapter for the master cylinder is just the generic plate and it's a pain in the rear end to get on, so I'm debating just returning it since it's still "clean" (bought through Amazon, returns usually aren't hard) and getting speed bleeders for the brake cylinders, or going outside and making a friend so they can help me bleed the brakes. Leaning toward the Speed Bleeders.
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May 15, 2024 20:05
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If anyone sees any good deals on m18 impacts please post them. I’m probably going to have to replace a lot of suspension stuff on our 2007 Prius after someone decided to drive over a large curb at speed. I don’t think my 3/8 stubby will be enough for some of that.
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May 15, 2024 21:42
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boxen posted:Ugh, that's what I thought. The pump is basically the same as weed sprayers I've used, and those will pressurize when dry. The adapter for the master cylinder is just the generic plate and it's a pain in the rear end to get on, so I'm debating just returning it since it's still "clean" (bought through Amazon, returns usually aren't hard) and getting speed bleeders for the brake cylinders, or going outside and making a friend so they can help me bleed the brakes. Speed Bleeders for life for me, they've never failed me. I still like doing them with 2 people so I can watch the fluid coming out, but its soooo much faster even with 2 people.
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May 16, 2024 16:59
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fknlo posted:If anyone sees any good deals on m18 impacts please post them. I’m probably going to have to replace a lot of suspension stuff on our 2007 Prius after someone decided to drive over a large curb at speed. I don’t think my 3/8 stubby will be enough for some of that. keep an eye on garagejournal hot deals forum and toolguyd.com
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May 16, 2024 17:18
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boxen posted:Ugh, that's what I thought. The pump is basically the same as weed sprayers I've used, and those will pressurize when dry. The adapter for the master cylinder is just the generic plate and it's a pain in the rear end to get on, so I'm debating just returning it since it's still "clean" (bought through Amazon, returns usually aren't hard) and getting speed bleeders for the brake cylinders, or going outside and making a friend so they can help me bleed the brakes. you're the meme of the guy mining who gives up right before striking fortune. Spray the fittings with soapy water and see where your leak is. The effort it takes to get that flat plate with chains on is absolutely worth the effort. I've had speed bleeders and they're nothing compared to a pressure bleeder.
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May 16, 2024 17:20
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boxen posted:Ugh, that's what I thought. The pump is basically the same as weed sprayers I've used, and those will pressurize when dry. The adapter for the master cylinder is just the generic plate and it's a pain in the rear end to get on, so I'm debating just returning it since it's still "clean" (bought through Amazon, returns usually aren't hard) and getting speed bleeders for the brake cylinders, or going outside and making a friend so they can help me bleed the brakes. There are also knockoff i.e. unbranded pressure caps for cheap on Amazon that you can use for your specific model. I did this for our Hondas and never had any issues
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May 16, 2024 18:18
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Head's up - tomorrow the Harbor Freight 5-drawer mechanic's cart will be marked down to $189
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May 16, 2024 18:29
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PhotoKirk posted:Head's up - tomorrow the Harbor Freight 5-drawer mechanic's cart will be marked down to $189 I'm still kicking myself for not picking up a 50% off Apache case on Monday. 
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May 16, 2024 19:25
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fknlo posted:If anyone sees any good deals on m18 impacts please post them. I’m probably going to have to replace a lot of suspension stuff on our 2007 Prius after someone decided to drive over a large curb at speed. I don’t think my 3/8 stubby will be enough for some of that. Slim pickings, but you can get their 1/2" mid-torque impact for $135 as part of this deal (return the battery kit or send it to a different store for pickup then cancel it after picking up the impact.) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...1862S/315426486
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May 16, 2024 20:22
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Wifi Toilet posted:Slim pickings, but you can get their 1/2" mid-torque impact for $135 as part of this deal (return the battery kit or send it to a different store for pickup then cancel it after picking up the impact.) I'd need the batteries as I don't have any M18 stuff, just M12. Doesn't seem like a terrible deal with them though.
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May 16, 2024 23:53
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honestly the M18 HO batteries take so long to discharge you can probably get by with one
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May 17, 2024 00:12
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boxen posted:Ugh, that's what I thought. The pump is basically the same as weed sprayers I've used, and those will pressurize when dry. The adapter for the master cylinder is just the generic plate and it's a pain in the rear end to get on, so I'm debating just returning it since it's still "clean" (bought through Amazon, returns usually aren't hard) and getting speed bleeders for the brake cylinders, or going outside and making a friend so they can help me bleed the brakes. Recommendation to make the flat plate adapter seal: big rear end C-clamp. The chains and wing nuts try their best, but I couldn't get it to hold a useful amount of pressure without some extra clamping pressure. After the clamp we made it up to 30psi without leaks. Probably throw a block of wood on the top of the plate and bottom of the master just for peace of mind.
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May 17, 2024 02:46
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Seconded, clamps are the only way I made a pressure bleeder work on a cast iron reservoir master cylinder. I still prefer speed bleeders to loving with that, though.
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May 17, 2024 03:35
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For anything with a cast iron reservoir with a flat top? Sure. Speed bleeders will work fine because we're probably talking at least half drum brakes. But once you get into multiple piston calipers, trying to bleed a new brake master or trying to bleed a clutch, especially with a new master or slave there really is no subsitute for pressure bleeding. I can tell the difference, as can multiple others I've helped out with this, even on basic rear end 80s 944s/924s. There is absolute difference in pedal feel. Some people also swear by vacuum bleeding but I've never had anything nice to try that, just little mityvacs and it was a terrible experience and result. I suppose I'm just saying choose your tool based on the application.
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May 17, 2024 03:45
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StormDrain posted:you're the meme of the guy mining who gives up right before striking fortune. Spray the fittings with soapy water and see where your leak is. The effort it takes to get that flat plate with chains on is absolutely worth the effort. I've had speed bleeders and they're nothing compared to a pressure bleeder. I love my pressure bleeder now. I did have issues with the cap, easy to get it on wrong but I've got the gist of it now. Couldn't have bled my brakes alone without it. And it was like 40 euros.
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May 17, 2024 07:58
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Thanks for the tip about the C-clamp, it's an obvious thing but not one I thought of. I had been getting irritated by trying to get the J-hooks and chain looped around the cast master cylinder, wriggling things through the brake lines and reaching around the hood hinges, just using a c-clamp will help. If I can get the pump to work. I think the "pump" on my pressure bleeder might just be bad, no matter how hard or fast I pump, the gauge doesn't move and pumping effort doesn't change. If it were simply a leak somewhere, I'd expect the gauge to move at least a little, especially after I pinched off the hose to the adapter.
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May 17, 2024 17:05
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With the flat plate, I've had better luck looping the chain under just the reservoir rather than under the master cylinder. With the chains under the cylinder the reservoir shifts around some as you tighten it (at least on a GMT400). Chains under the reservoir eliminates that slop. Still hard to seal, and I always feel like I'm going to damage the plastic, so I'll be trying the C clamp idea next time.
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May 17, 2024 18:18
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I picked up Motive knockoff and one of the generic metal Subaru reservoir caps to match it, and it works like a charm on my Legacy and the wife's Crosstrek. I want to pick up a cap for the 3000GT too, but the only one I've found that I think will work is part of a set of a bunch of caps. I've had Speed Bleeders on cars in the past, and pressure bleeding is significantly easier solo, because I can watch the fluid coming out. Edit: mine also would not build pressure. I took apart the pump part, and flipped a rubber ring around, lubed it with a light dab of silglyde, and it works just fine now. PitViper fucked around with this message at 01:58 on May 19, 2024 |
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May 19, 2024 01:56
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While we're all talking about bleeding, I'm going to tell you this is absolutely not worth $30: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9XHVKA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And I would buy it again in a heartbeat. Just take my money. With the vale you could even possibly use it as a one man bleeder, but I've never tried.
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May 19, 2024 03:10
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The the check valve seems like a nice touch. I usually use a Gatorade bottle, 12in of hose and pour a bit of brake fluid into the bottle to prevent air being sucked in. When I'm done I jam the hose in and put the lid back on till I bring it to the waste center.
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May 19, 2024 04:18
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I got tired of poo poo sliding around in my drawers and the factory liner bunching up so I bought some Harbor Freight strain relief mats and cut them up.   Now what should I fill that Milwaukee hole with...
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May 19, 2024 18:44
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:
hole hawg
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May 19, 2024 18:48
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4½ angle grinder
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May 19, 2024 18:52
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Nut fucker 5000 would fit in there nicely
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May 19, 2024 19:46
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Now what should I fill that Milwaukee hole with... Cheese and beer.
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May 19, 2024 20:21
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C-Bangin' it 
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Funnel hot tar right in there with a road cone
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May 19, 2024 23:15
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You know what cordless tool I use the most? Cordless light. I am on the Bosch ecosystem which is super tiny compared to the others but I swear, I use this thing at least a several times a month just around the house. I love this little thing. https://www.boschtools.com/ca/en/products/fl12-06014A0010
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May 20, 2024 14:59
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slidebite posted:You know what cordless tool I use the most? Cordless lights are definitely my most usual and it’s nice that they have USB chargers built into most of them so I can charge a phone or BT speaker off of them as well
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May 20, 2024 15:29
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