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Hadlock posted:Well I already have the 32 bit "quiet" v2 motherboard and it's super quiet I don't know what the upgrade would get me Ah, I didn't realize the new creality boards were 32 bit, probably nothing. They were selling "upgrade" boards for a while that had nice quiet trinamic drivers but was still the same old melzi crap otherwise.
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Apr 9, 2021 16:56
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Am I going to start a fire printing with my ender 3 in an enclosure with 3 walls, power supply still attached? Waiting on wire before I can move it externally and attach the doors
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Apr 10, 2021 00:52
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w00tmonger posted:Am I going to start a fire printing with my ender 3 in an enclosure with 3 walls, power supply still attached? It's anecdotal but I've seen that folks just enclosing a regular printer rarely see temps in the enclosure above 30-40C which should be fine for a power supply. The main heater in there is the bed heater which will stop at whatever you set it to, while the hotend is never going to heat the entire enclosure to its temperature unless you're building something absurdly insulated which I don't think is important for a 3d printer unless you're doing very high temp materials. Those usually will require liquid cooling for the stepper motors and stuff, too, and are probably not what you're going for if you're just printing some ABS or nylon or whatever. That said, I wouldn't leave the house with it running, make sure you have a smoke detector nearby, extinguisher rated for electrical fires, don't leave your bottle of isopropyl right next to it, etc. A little caution and preparation go a long way if there's an issue. As an aside the Ender 3 v2 has a constant sale on creality's site. The discount seems to vary but right now it's $16 and the price is $242 so that brings it to $226: Creality3D Official Store has Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer for $242 - $16 w/ discount code ZP3V2OFF16 = $226. Shipping is free. https://www.creality3dofficial.com/collections/top-sell/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer Rexxed fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Apr 10, 2021 |
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Apr 10, 2021 03:31
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So input shaping appears to be the next big thing? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNraKK7ukzU Those accelerometers are dirt cheap, so it should be a cheap upgrade.
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Apr 11, 2021 07:53
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My enders and cr-10 have worked thousands of hours fully enclosed, no power supply issues. Yes you should take those precautions.
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Apr 11, 2021 13:12
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ImplicitAssembler posted:So input shaping appears to be the next big thing? I was literally reading the source for using the tap detection of ADXL345s for bed probing and homing. Better than 0.01mm accuracy on both z screws and flying gantrys. I have a few spare, I'm going to put one on an ender3 the owner is encouraging me to hot rod for the fun of it. If it works, to the Voron it goes.
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Apr 11, 2021 13:53
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:My enders and cr-10 have worked thousands of hours fully enclosed, no power supply issues. Yes you should take those precautions. So should I be rmconcerned about moving out the power supply then or am I really overthinking things? Obviously all the other stuff I'm making a point of and won't be leaving it running overnight etc
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Apr 11, 2021 15:36
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I'm looking at doing the scaling up and deploying more of the Flashforge Creator Pro units that I have (one in operation, four in storage) and I'm considering the general economy and cost of PLA filament. Namely, I started with Prusament but supply is really tight and the price has gone up from whatever Prusa sells it for. Any suggestions for a mid to mid-high (if Prusament is "top tier") PLA filament brands to look into? I heard okay things about Hatchbox, dunno about Amazon's PLA house brand, but looking for recs. I still haven't gotten through my first roll of Prusament but I'm getting there since I've been printing a buncha stuff.
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Apr 11, 2021 15:41
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w00tmonger posted:So should I be rmconcerned about moving out the power supply then or am I really overthinking things? Obviously all the other stuff I'm making a point of and won't be leaving it running overnight etc I moved the power supply out of mine for peace of mind. It was easy and I feel better about the arrangement whether it matters or not.
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Apr 11, 2021 15:47
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Nothing like baby's first voron to make me feel like a total noob. I am essentially complete with my V0 build which was the formbot3d kit that everyone is buying.
I've been running enders and CR-10s for years now entirely by SD card and have a well-sorted workflow for that, but I have no familiarity with klipper, the SKR, or running a headless printer. The last time I tried doing any raspi/octoprint stuff was like 2015/16 and I hated it but I'm ready to get my heart broken again trying to get this one going.
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Apr 11, 2021 15:55
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So this layer shifting I'm getting? What am I missing? I'm getting intermittent small shifts on my x axis. Tightened belts, levelled bed etc. Is this some slicer setting I need to change or something. Printing 0.16 height on prusaslicer on my ender 3, pretty much stock settings from them 
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Apr 11, 2021 16:12
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:[*]Holy gently caress so many nuts that have to be inserted 26 pages before they get used which leads to them falling out and then you get too far in to be able to fix it without disassembling everything you just built.  Doing any extrusion stuff, it's totally worth spending $10 on a big bag of spring loaded roll-in nuts. Not as infuriating as hammer/drop-in nuts and just as strong as slide-in nuts. Cost more, but it saves insanely irritating moments like realizing you have slide-in nuts in the wrong place. And they stay where you put them!
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Apr 11, 2021 16:18
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aldantefax posted:I'm looking at doing the scaling up and deploying more of the Flashforge Creator Pro units that I have (one in operation, four in storage) and I'm considering the general economy and cost of PLA filament. Namely, I started with Prusament but supply is really tight and the price has gone up from whatever Prusa sells it for. Any suggestions for a mid to mid-high (if Prusament is "top tier") PLA filament brands to look into? I heard okay things about Hatchbox, dunno about Amazon's PLA house brand, but looking for recs. I still haven't gotten through my first roll of Prusament but I'm getting there since I've been printing a buncha stuff. I've been printing a few spools worth of Sunlu in various flavors of PLA, PLA+, and Silk PLA from amazon and it's gone pretty well. I have killed: one black one silk rainbow one non-silk rainbow I have loaded: one nocilucent one white, with another white still in the bag. I have a grey from a different vendor and i'm not sure how it's going to go. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 17:06
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Hypnolobster posted:
100% but the V0 uses 1515 extrusions and the only pack I could get on amazon of drop-in 1515 M3 nuts was still too fuckin big to actually drop in.
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Apr 11, 2021 17:18
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aldantefax posted:I'm looking at doing the scaling up and deploying more of the Flashforge Creator Pro units that I have (one in operation, four in storage) and I'm considering the general economy and cost of PLA filament. Namely, I started with Prusament but supply is really tight and the price has gone up from whatever Prusa sells it for. Any suggestions for a mid to mid-high (if Prusament is "top tier") PLA filament brands to look into? I heard okay things about Hatchbox, dunno about Amazon's PLA house brand, but looking for recs. I still haven't gotten through my first roll of Prusament but I'm getting there since I've been printing a buncha stuff. What are you going to be printing? For curved surfaces and organic shapes, the SainSmart Silk series will give you unbelievably smooth prints but it comes in very bright colors and is really shiny. My go-to for everything else if I don’t feel like paying out the butt for Prusament is Matter Hackers Build PLA. It works a charm and if you buy in bulk you can get the cost down to like $16 a spool and also get free shipping.
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Apr 11, 2021 17:37
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Got a strange issue. My prints are coming in fine on the back half of the plate, but anything on the front of it fails.  These are all similarly-sized models with the same slice settings. This has happened with the last three prints. I've leveled the bed and even checked the printer with a literal level while it was running to see if it was wobbling but everything seemed ok and the issue persists. Any ideas?
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Apr 11, 2021 17:50
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snail posted:I was literally reading the source for using the tap detection of ADXL345s for bed probing and homing. Better than 0.01mm accuracy on both z screws and flying gantrys. I had the smart effector on my Rostock, which also used the nozzle to probe, but I found that any kind of oozing from the nozzle woudl throw it off. My BLV Cube was originally built with an IR probe, but that struggled on textured beds. I still think Bltouch is the best solution.
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Apr 11, 2021 17:55
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Springfield Fatts posted:Got a strange issue. My prints are coming in fine on the back half of the plate, but anything on the front of it fails. If you put a sheet of paper on the lcd and lower the build plate to zero (remove the vat and clean the plate), can you pull the paper out? If you can, it's not leveled correctly. You shouldn't be able to. Fails on one side of the plate are either leveling, or your LCD is failing in that spot. However, failing LCD usually just leaves holes.
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Apr 11, 2021 18:00
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Oh so you shouldn't be able to pull the paper out? I thought it was able to pull with some drag. drat ok I'll level again with it slightly lower.
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Apr 11, 2021 18:34
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Springfield Fatts posted:Oh so you shouldn't be able to pull the paper out? I thought it was able to pull with some drag. drat ok I'll level again with it slightly lower. Should JUST barely be able to pull the paper out
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Apr 11, 2021 19:01
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w00tmonger posted:So this layer shifting I'm getting? What am I missing? I'm getting intermittent small shifts on my x axis. Tightened belts, levelled bed etc. Is this some slicer setting I need to change or something. That's a little weird, might be worth double checking square on the axes (x especially) and making sure the hotend can't wiggle. Could be a loose bolt or eccentric nut on one of the wheels.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:04
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w00tmonger posted:So this layer shifting I'm getting? What am I missing? I'm getting intermittent small shifts on my x axis. Tightened belts, levelled bed etc. Is this some slicer setting I need to change or something.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:58
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Should have said something.... I was short 20+ m3x6 BHCS screws. They did update the SSR, which is good. You need to strip the cover off the bed wiring, the inner wires fit fine. I don't understand why you'd want a ground strap on the bed.... The thermal fuse is best glued to the bed using silicone. Those generic adjustable regulators do need to be set. I blew up the reciever on my 1s r/c car becuase I didn't check first...... The fact the design doesn't default to switched plug on the base is... abusive. There's at least three options for C14 plugs to add to the V0. I chose the "in the skirt" model. To say there's "several" confusing details is... an understatement at best. I'll have a complete list when I'm done building mine. The t-nuts are a thing.... I've been trying to figure out the best way to figure out how to install those nicely. I'm thinking.. some yarn in the groove first? If you use the "real deal" t-nuts, it goes a lot better. ................. This is essentially a prototype printer. V0.1 is in the near future. Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Nothing like baby's first voron to make me feel like a total noob. I am essentially complete with my V0 build which was the formbot3d kit that everyone is buying.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:39
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:-- I just installed Klipper on my Ender 3 v2, with Raspberry Pi/Octoprint/OctoKlipper plugin. Was using stock Marlin firmware before. The install was super easy using this guide (although I'm not using BLTouch and can't vouch for that). https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/kj2h5r/stepbystep_guide_for_ender_3_v2_klipper_w_bltouch/. I bet it's similar for a Voron. Most Enders apparently cheaped out on the stepper drivers and can't run Marlin's Linear Advance. This led me to trying Klipper which has Pressure Advance (a software based approach). It was incredibly easy to tune and my prints went from having some ugly over/under extrusion in corners and transitions, to very pretty prints. See if there are any guides for the Voron & Klipper. It's made my printing far more enjoyable.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:45
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Nothing like baby's first voron to make me feel like a total noob. I am essentially complete with my V0 build which was the formbot3d kit that everyone is buying. Nerobro and I have both been quite public about building a V0, why did you do it in secret  * You can power the Pi via the SKR's 5v rail and skip the DC-DC. * Absolutely strip the outer insulation off the silicone pad quote:I am tired of V6 bullshit so I purchased a mosquito; the STLs include a toolhead for the mosquito but it's narrower than the v6/dragon so you can't use the included 3010 24v hotend fan and need to buy a 2510 24v one.
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Apr 11, 2021 21:27
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I've got an issue on my past couples prints, models are sticking to the FEP instead of the build plate in one corner. Leveling issue?
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Apr 12, 2021 12:53
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w00tmonger posted:Should JUST barely be able to pull the paper out Yeah, this is hard to explain in text just like leveling an FDM printer. The way I do it is to get the build plate down onto the paper to a tightness that if I pull the paper, the machine slides with it. If I held the printer with one hand, I could drag it out from the build plate with effort. I agree it shouldn't be so low that you can't pull the paper at all without ripping it (although if I can't get an in-between, I err on the side of tighter). You also don't want to make it so low that you crack the LCD, so go slowly and in only .01 increments while testing. But it should *not* be so loose that you could slide it back and forth with some drag like an FDM printer.
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Apr 12, 2021 13:21
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I had the smart effector on my Rostock, which also used the nozzle to probe, but I found that any kind of oozing from the nozzle woudl throw it off. Purge bucket and wire brush, nozzle stays clean. The BLtouch will be my fall back I think, but it's easy enough to clean off a nozzle prior to a homing.
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Apr 12, 2021 13:33
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For my resin printers, I use the paper they give you as the leveling paper, loosen the nuts (mars and saturn so there's just 1 screw held in place by 2 nuts) and hit the level button, then when it gets all the way down and levels and beeps, just press down on 3 or 4 sides by using one hand, and tighten the nuts up at the same time. Hasn't failed me yet. Obviously DO NOT LEVEL like this in the vat.
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Apr 12, 2021 13:40
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Once again thanks for the advice, I lowered the plate by a few .mm and now I'm getting full prints.
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Apr 12, 2021 14:42
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Nerobro posted:Should have said something.... I’ve not run an AC bed before, I have just seen traffic online of people saying to ground the bed and frame. Another thing I figured out this weekend during software setup is the distro’d guide is out of date vs the Voron docs site which led to me making some wacky guesses on SSR wiring and Klipper config settings until I was pointed in the right direction on discord. It’s a very cool prototype! I got through octoprint, klipper, and homing setup so far. It was so satisfying to see the thing moving properly! Hotend heats and spins fine but I need to sort out my part cooling fan and bed heat which are probably down to my lovely wiring. insta posted:Nerobro and I have both been quite public about building a V0, why did you do it in secret The last V0 chat I saw was like 20 pages ago so it didn’t even occur to me, haha. The tool head thing is 100% on me. Why would the mosquito be more prone to melting the fan ducts? They seem similar proximity to the other hotends. Just the smaller fan output? So much of the early chatter I saw (online) was worries about leadscrew issues, but my bed seems to be zooming up and down without any wobbles. I think I’ve disassembled the bed and rebuilt it like five times so far; I wanted to reprint the mounting parts with more walls which worked out well, and I was able to successfully remove (and reinstall) the bed without taking the printer apart by dismounting the leadscrew nut and the z linear rails. I need to get some filament through the pocket watch to make sure that path is working.
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Apr 12, 2021 14:47
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:V0 Stuff.... I've got... my wiring about 50% done. All the steppers are routed, I have the hot end quick disconnect wired, I have the USB power for the Pi... Mechanically I'm done, except maybe for swapping out the Idlers for the 623 bearings I got in the mail. Speaking of which, buy 8 extra 623 bearings, unless you want to deal with that later. I don't understand grounding the bed to the frame.... Unless something else is ~very wrong~ it wont' be live. Also, the frame isn't grounded, so you're grounding to... make the whole frame live instead of just the bed if the heat pad fails? It's nonsense. There's a lot of "I don't understand" going on, in the V0. The build order is not entirely correct. The "attach the cable chain" step is completely missing from the manual. Warnings about t-nuts falling out are not there for the bed. Measurements for "where things should be" don't show up until MUCH later, and MUCH harder places to deal with them. There's no mention of the rail alignment clips. There's no way to tension the Z motor belt once it's assembled. There's not enough mention of the correct Z drive bracket. (none, IIRC..) There's no mention of screw clearance for the Z stop switch. There's no method for accessing the tension screw on the pocketwatch without removing the back. There's no fixing for the input end of the filament. (Solved with printed piece) There's no notes on how the input of filament should be done. There's no C14 plug. (solved with printed piece) The printer depends on... nothing... for LIVE POWER WIRES having strain relief. Which seems odd, because the bed has a temperature fuse. There's no guidance for how to attach the bed temp fuse. The printer has no practical wiring guide. The printer generally comes out to less than the 120mm spec.. (I'm seeing 118, 117mm usually) There's no blockoff panel between the hot area, and the stepper/electronics area. (Solved with printed piece) Among, other gripes. I went into this build under the impression that it was a "complete project". And it's not. It's a "pretty good motion system" with a whole lot of grey area around the edges. Way more than I'd probally publish. Heh. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 16:50
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snail posted:Purge bucket and wire brush, nozzle stays clean. The BLtouch will be my fall back I think, but it's easy enough to clean off a nozzle prior to a homing. Right..but with the BLtouch I don't have to do anything. Press print and off you go.
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Apr 12, 2021 17:34
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If I have like, three spare raspberry pi nearby, and an unused webcam is it worth spending more than 30 minutes getting octoprint setup, especially since I work from home now and the printer lives reaching distance from my desk
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Apr 12, 2021 17:43
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Hadlock posted:If I have like, three spare raspberry pi nearby, and an unused webcam is it worth spending more than 30 minutes getting octoprint setup, especially since I work from home now and the printer lives reaching distance from my desk The time-lapse function is pretty cool
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Apr 12, 2021 17:45
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Anyone familiar with klipper that could tell me if/why I should beef up my ender 3 to use it?
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Apr 12, 2021 18:01
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mattfl posted:The time-lapse function is pretty cool Is that how everyone is doing the time lapse where the print head is in the exact same spot in every frame
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Apr 12, 2021 18:04
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It was surprisingly easy to set up last weekend. (~Half a day to get both octoprint and klipper running) Drag and drop printing is nice. Not having to keep futzing with the sd card for every print. Putting repeat stuff/test prints into a subfolder makes post change dial in so much easier (bed level, benchy, etc) Partially automated bed levelling was sweet. Webcam support is fun.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:07
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone familiar with klipper that could tell me if/why I should beef up my ender 3 to use it? If your printer is fine. No. BUT, here's what's cool with Kilpper: Input shaping. Between a $5 accelerometer and three minutes of work, you can eliminate all ringing from your printing. Linear, true pressure advance. This stops "things" happening at the start, and stop of layers, or lines. This also helps corner shapes. Never be limited by steps per second again. Klipper can do enough steps per second to run a delta FAST. And with a catesian, it's damned near sleeping. Update and change settings without writing new firmware. A good, easy, stable web interface. ............ So there's good reason. If you're printing at "normal" ender speeds? eh, you probally don't need it.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:13
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Be nice if someone would link or post a write-up for how to set that up whenever it comes up.
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