|
SchnorkIes posted:PETG takes really poorly to paint and glue though, right? Nope. Just get paints specifically mixed for use on plastics and the same for glues. You're working with a material similar to soda bottle plastics, if you need a reference to play with before testing filaments.
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 01:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 17:19 |
|
|
eltoozero posted:If you nylock mod your prusa I will hate you forever. i had never heard of this mod so i looked it up and now i'm traumatized. thanks a lot
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 03:17
|
|
|
How air tight should a 3d printer enclosure be? Right now mine isn't looking to print abs for now mostly and I don't have an ambient temp controller or anything
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 05:49
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:How air tight should a 3d printer enclosure be? It doesn't need to be at all. If you're wanting to prevent fumes, yes it does. If your goal is to keep the temperature fairly stable with no drafts, an inverted cardboard box or a cupboard will do.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 09:51
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:i had never heard of this mod so i looked it up and now i'm traumatized. thanks a lot   Why? Why would you do this?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 13:20
|
|
|
So since Monoprice discontinued the Delta Pro that I have I said gently caress it and took the plunge on updating the Lerdge control board firmware to 4.2.0 and restoring the configuration settings from a backup of said settings, running a hilarious bed-level routine now that has a 14 x 14 probe point grid then I'm going to dig into how to configure Linear Advance and make sure it's implemented while printing. It does seem to run much more smoothly now, something about the bugged firmware Monoprice was installing on them not interpreting some settings correctly (no surprise there).
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 13:54
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:
I guess it makes sense if your bed really isn’t flat or your frame is warped, you’re trying to use variable height standoffs. But won’t the vibrations cause your perfectly calibrated nuts to back off and go out of level? Some people are complaining about insane amounts of rattling and vibration and it’s like no poo poo you’re just floating on spinning nuts. You would need threadlocker or jam nuts which would defeat the whole purpose of variable height standoffs. And then you’re just using some random dudes webpage to figure out if you’re level? Another person is complaining that the website returns random values even when they don’t adjust any nuts. This seems like an enormous amount of time and effort when the problem is either a $30 steel sheet replacement or just letting it go.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 14:22
|
|
|
space uncle posted:But won’t the vibrations cause your perfectly calibrated nuts to back off and go out of level? Some people are complaining about insane amounts of rattling and vibration and it’s like no poo poo you’re just floating on spinning nuts. You would need threadlocker or jam nuts which would defeat the whole purpose of variable height standoffs. The mod is stupid but nyloc nuts don't need threadlocker, the nylon insert grips the threads
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 14:35
|
|
|
mewse posted:The mod is stupid but nyloc nuts don't need threadlocker, the nylon insert grips the threads Oh whoops you’re right. I forgot those are the ones with the little insert. It’s even in the name!
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 14:48
|
|
|
space uncle posted:This seems like an enormous amount of time and effort when the problem is either a $30 steel sheet replacement or just letting it go. I feel like printer part manufacturers have done an excellent job of convincing users that there is just absolutely no way of guaranteeing a certain degree of flatness.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 15:12
|
|
|
Welp said gently caress it and ordered the Epax E10-4k and when the 5k upgrade comes out I'll probably throw that in it. Here's looking forward to some larger resin size prints!
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 18:53
|
|
|
I think my FEP sprung a leak somewhere, my print finished but there was resin dripping down the side of the printer. Big ups to whoever suggested secondary containment (I have it sitting on a cafeteria tray). Now to clean everything up, scrape cured resin off the screen, and fix my tank. When replacing FEP, what should I use to make sure it's not too tight? Elegoo says to place a sponge under it before tightening, but I have no frame of reference for size/thickness - surely not a full size kitchen sponge?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 19:14
|
|
|
Toebone posted:I think my FEP sprung a leak somewhere, my print finished but there was resin dripping down the side of the printer. Big ups to whoever suggested secondary containment (I have it sitting on a cafeteria tray). Now to clean everything up, scrape cured resin off the screen, and fix my tank. I make a cardboard frame and staple the edges of the FEP to it. Works great. Saw it in a YouTube Here tis https://youtu.be/9YY5MNZw_6w
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 19:25
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Welp said gently caress it and ordered the Epax E10-4k and when the 5k upgrade comes out I'll probably throw that in it. Here's looking forward to some larger resin size prints! I've had my E10 for a month or so now and absolutely love it. I was afraid I'd be kind of mad at myself for not holding out for a cheaper Saturn, but nope. Not disappointed in the least.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 22:18
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:I've had my E10 for a month or so now and absolutely love it. I was afraid I'd be kind of mad at myself for not holding out for a cheaper Saturn, but nope. Not disappointed in the least. Are you planning on upgrading to the 5k/10” screen when available?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 22:33
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Welp said gently caress it and ordered the Epax E10-4k and when the 5k upgrade comes out I'll probably throw that in it. Here's looking forward to some larger resin size prints! With a printer like this is there any reason to have home FDM anymore?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 22:41
|
|
|
FDM has a much wider range of material options and the parts are stronger. It's also a lot more convenient and less messy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 22:49
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:FDM has a much wider range of material options and the parts are stronger. It's also a lot more convenient and less messy. I thought consumer resins had reached ABS performance? That would be plenty for most applications.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 22:59
|
|
|
SchnorkIes posted:With a printer like this is there any reason to have home FDM anymore? Yes. Printing large terrain, while possible with an E10 is going to be a A LOT more expensive in resin that PLA.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 00:30
|
|
|
SchnorkIes posted:I thought consumer resins had reached ABS performance? That would be plenty for most applications. yeah but I can print PEEK at home 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 00:53
|
|
|
Yeah a resin printer really fails to print big stuff and structural stuff (unless your loving around with hardcore resins)
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 01:12
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Are you planning on upgrading to the 5k/10” screen when available? At this point, I honestly don't think so. So far I haven't wished anything that's come out of it looked any better than it already did, so I personally can't see dumping the money into it. If you're an absolute detail freak (and that's not an insult), the extra resolution may be something you want. I'm plenty fine with it as it sits though, the prop and costume stuff I've been doing doesn't really require individual-hair-level pixel density. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 01:23
|
|
|
SchnorkIes posted:With a printer like this is there any reason to have home FDM anymore? From the perspective of an extreme resin newbie (I just bought my first one a few weeks ago since my FDM printers are always busy), the post-processing workflow is enough of a pain in the rear end that I can't imagine using it for the kind of functional/prototyping stuff that most people do on FDMs. Or really for anything other than miniatures, to be honest. Cleaning and curing large parts really seems like it'd just be a huge pain, and resin is pretty pricy, too. But I'm also really new to resin printing so I could be way off base.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 03:19
|
|
|
I just don't know what to do with all the contaminated ipa. I try to avoid any process where I'm disposing of a solution like that honestly
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 03:27
|
|
|
SchnorkIes posted:I just don't know what to do with all the contaminated ipa. I try to avoid any process where I'm disposing of a solution like that honestly You can cure, filter, and continually reuse the IPA. That's what I've been doing, but it's another thing that just seems like it'd be a nightmare if I was printing as often as I do with FDM.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 04:55
|
|
|
If consumer money spend was not a huge concern, would those automated wash and cure things work for resin printers? I would like to be able to print, bust off supports, maybe do a quick water rinse, then immediately go to wash/cure and leave it hands off for the process in a sealed chamber. I see that they do get rather pricey, but I think I'm okay with that whenever I do set foot into resin land. edit: work better or more efficiently than manual wash and cure, that is
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 05:12
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:If consumer money spend was not a huge concern, would those automated wash and cure things work for resin printers? I would like to be able to print, bust off supports, maybe do a quick water rinse, then immediately go to wash/cure and leave it hands off for the process in a sealed chamber. I see that they do get rather pricey, but I think I'm okay with that whenever I do set foot into resin land. 100%. It's streamlined my whole process a ton.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 05:39
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4FvWHkUu8M I think I'm going to do the same upgrade on my BLV. Cheap to do, with significant weight savings.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 07:45
|
|
|
The only thing I've ever printed is calibration tests and printer modifications with a few toys for the kids but here I am trying to talk myself into printing the voron ABS bits on my ender 3 and waiting for a kit to be available so I can lose 3 months building one of them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 12:53
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:At this point, I honestly don't think so. So far I haven't wished anything that's come out of it looked any better than it already did, so I personally can't see dumping the money into it. If you're an absolute detail freak (and that's not an insult), the extra resolution may be something you want. I'm plenty fine with it as it sits though, the prop and costume stuff I've been doing doesn't really require individual-hair-level pixel density. The 5k upgrade also comes with a larger printer area as well. 10.1" vs 8.9"
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 13:14
|
|
|
mattfl posted:The 5k upgrade also comes with a larger printer area as well. 10.1" vs 8.9" Ah, somehow I glossed right over that part! Now I'm going to change my answer to "maybe". The extra area definitely wouldn't suck.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 13:58
|
|
|
Beaucoup Haram posted:The only thing I've ever printed is calibration tests and printer modifications with a few toys for the kids but here I am trying to talk myself into printing the voron ABS bits on my ender 3 and waiting for a kit to be available so I can lose 3 months building one of them. I'm moving in a few months and am super busy in the interim, but a voron build is on my radar for post move. Maybe second half of the year or the start of next? It seems like exactly the sort of misery I'd love.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 14:20
|
|
|
Man, I'm glad I'm building a new printer because my old Taz can be frustrating. I think the original bed leveling system is garbage and I need to just spend a few hours to print out some of the upgraded solutions. I will be printing parts fine for several days, and then I'll do a print with a larger footprint and I get zero bed adhesion. I think I may have jiggled the bed while cleaning up a previous print, so I'm going to have to go back and spend another half hour leveling it. In addition, it feels like auto bed leveling when my BLTouch is 5cm away from the nozzle isn't particularly useful because it reduces the area it can measure in Marlin significantly because of how the logic works currently, it's something I hope a future update changes. Oh well, at least more of my Voron parts are showing up. Still about $400 left of parts to order, but I've still got a good chunk to finish printing too
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 14:54
|
|
|
 https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-wash-cure-plus-machine Holy poo poo sold out in 8 minutes!  I guess I should have bought some. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Apr 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 15:04
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:
Sold out already 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 15:06
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:
E: gently caress
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 15:21
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:
Here's where I post that, in addition to getting a Mars 2 a couple of weeks ago to go along with the two OG Mars and the Anycubic Wash & Cure V1 that I already had, I recently took advantage of a bundle Anycubic had going for the Photon Mono and a Wash & Cure 2.0 (which will arrive tomorrow). I think I might be hooked on this whole "resin printing miniatures" thing, guys 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 16:09
|
|
|
Going from having a resin printer and filament printer to only having one will make you painfully aware of the subtle differences between the two. Sure they often can do the same things, but there is less overlap in what they can do easily.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 16:24
|
|
|
Out of curiosity, what types of things are y'all printing? I just started this adventure. Have been using to prototype electronics enclosures with an Ender3 in PETG and ABS. Am considering using in early iterations of commercial projects to validate interest before injection molding. One of the projects is heat sensitive, so ABS may be the best bet. 2 are moisture sensitive.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 17:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 17:19 |
|
|
Dominoes posted:Out of curiosity, what types of things are y'all printing? I just started this adventure. Have been using to prototype electronics enclosures with an Ender3 in PETG and ABS. Am considering using in early iterations of commercial projects to validate interest before injection molding. One of the projects is heat sensitive, so ABS may be the best bet. 2 are moisture sensitive. I print a ton of small repair parts for home goods. For example, my mother's food processor has a known defect where a small plastic part cracks and eventually breaks, rendering the bowl safety un-defeatable. I designed a new one, printed it in PETG, and printed half a dozen for her. If it ever fails again, she's got spares. I print little brackets and clamp adapters for my wife. She's got scientific equipment that she needs to mount or hold, and there isn't anything off-the-shelf that works the way she wants. I've got several flex-filament clamp adapters that spend all summer underwater, holding a couple of different data loggers together. Toys for friends' kids are always a hit, Christmas stoking stuffers, that poo poo. Plus designs for my work. There are 30+ FDM electronics chassis of mine sitting on the seafloor, holding boards that log hydrothermal vent temperatures, and 6+ printed chassis parts for a GoPro system that are recording submersible/ROV surveys. A lot of it got turned into aluminum eventually, but the FDM parts are still in use in places, and they're invaluable for prototyping.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 17:35
|
|
