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Floppychop posted:I dont want to do elaborate bases, since I feel like elaborate bases make them the center of attention instead of the model. I just want mine to be less boring. Generally, you can get more elaborate with the centerpiece models of a fighting force. You can get good results by varying the ground cover for your bases. Decide on a cohesive environment for your army (tundra, grassland, urban ruins, etc) and grab a bunch of reference images to help you decide on a color scheme and what flora and geological formations are appropriate. Woodland scenics and similar companies that sell model train terrain have dozens and dozens of different options for colored flocking, static grass and other materials you can use to build up an environment. You can also source a lot of different types of small stones and plastic plants from aquarium and pet supply stores. I'm working on a bunch of models for a sci-fi campaign that'll be taking place primarily in urban environments so I've been using that idea as a jumping off point for my base designs. I've introduced some variation by kit-bashing from a variety of sources as even in urban settings there are a lot of different flooring, from clean, office building marble tiles to rusty factory catwalks. It also helps that the models I'm working on don't need to appear as cohesive as a WH 40k army.  crazystray posted:I've just started to try to do some more interesting basing and I have a question for those of you with more experience. You'll definitely want to leave the surfaces that will be glued together clear of any paint, flocking or sand to ensure a strong bond, especially if these are models you'll be handling regularly. To keep your miniatures balanced on a natural looking center of gravity you can paint their feet and then place them on their base to mark off where they're going to be standing so that you don't accidentally put a bunch of uneven terrain in the way. Propitious Jerk fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jul 15, 2019 |
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Jul 15, 2019 04:00
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Two Beans posted:Cool Bases ProTip: Do you paint them on the bases? My next task is working out an order. I normally just glue the models to the base to paint them. It's usually one foot with a tiny amount of glue, then I snap them off if I want to do a fancy base. I've built my bases and better waiting for PVA and then paint, but I'm wondering if I should do the model (which I find really hard not attached to a base tbh) then glue it onto a finished base.
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Jul 15, 2019 04:03
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JBP posted:Do you paint them on the bases? My next task is working out an order. I normally just glue the models to the base to paint them. It's usually one foot with a tiny amount of glue, then I snap them off if I want to do a fancy base. I've built my bases and better waiting for PVA and then paint, but I'm wondering if I should do the model (which I find really hard not attached to a base tbh) then glue it onto a finished base. The Sorcerer on the last pic was glued to the base before priming and painting, as were the Raptors and Warp Talons. The two Terminators and the Dark Apostle were painted separately from the bases, then glued on. For me it depends on the model, the base, and how much effort it would take to get paint in harder to reach spots if I paint the model glued to the base or not.
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Jul 15, 2019 04:27
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I sealed my corks and bought some Vallejo black lava-asphalt. It's dark but I figure once I start dry brushing and add some ice/snow it'll be a truly Fenrisian Christmas  The fancy bases I'll do separately and then add the models but I think the troops will just get painted and I'll add the basing texture as they are. Seems simple enough not to gently caress it up.
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Jul 15, 2019 08:07
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Hello cool dudes, I am thinking of getting into painting so I have something to pass the time with and I have a couple of questions. 1) I am planning on getting the thousand sons start collecting box as I think they look cool as gently caress but am wondering if I should get these new contrast paints to make life easier on myself while I get my eye in? Is that a good idea or a waste of time? I am unlikely to ever actually play so my focus is having really good looking dudes. 2) Related to the above, can I take the paint off afterwards? I have heard people talk about using some alcohol, is that a way of "restarting"? 3) I am planning on buying my stuff from elements gaming as that is who a youtuber is recommending, are they a reputational company? 4) I am planning on buying their Marta Kolinsky Round Brush 0, 1, and 2 brushes. Are they the same size as what is recommended in the OP? Thanks for you help.
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Jul 15, 2019 08:15
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So I had this weird pink grass around and though let's give it a try. I like it!  Tzeentch leaves weird grass in his wake right? E: also thanks for the recommendation on the basing stuff. It already looks better. I painted that base with the icy gouge (I'm going to have that on a few bases I think, colours are beautiful) and it looked ok but this is already lightyears better and it's not even dry. JBP fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Jul 15, 2019 |
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Jul 15, 2019 08:41
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notaspy posted:Hello cool dudes, On the one hand I'm kind of skeptical about how contrast will look on TSons, they're kind of notoriously finicky models to paint. But the first dudes you paint aren't going to be Golden Demon Caliber anyway. The focus with contrast paints is speed more than looking amazing... but you CAN make stuff look good with contrast and as a complete beginner it may well look better than what you produce with normal paints. Personally I would only buy them if I needed to get an army table ready quickly and stick with normal paints if doing for the sake of art, but I haven't actually used them so that's just based on my opinion of the results I've seen from them. You can strip paint, there's a post about it in the OP. I'm a 'murrican so I don't have any experience with Element, but a ton of people in the UK seem to buy GW stuff from them so I'd imagine they're fine. 0-2 Rounds are the right range for mini painting. You might want a larger flat brush for base coating tanks and the like if you plan to do that, but it doesn't need to be an expensive sable brush. If you're going with sable brushes right away be sure to watch a video or something on brush care.
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Jul 15, 2019 09:20
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Hixson posted:5 more terminators to the pile I know that's supposed to be dirt on their feet and greaves but i love the idea that they've just been making wine out of people and haven't bothered washing off.
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Jul 15, 2019 09:32
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Irate Tree posted:I know that's supposed to be dirt on their feet and greaves but i love the idea that they've just been making wine out of people and haven't bothered washing off. They're disguised Emperor's Children
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Jul 15, 2019 09:33
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JBP posted:I sealed my corks and bought some Vallejo black lava-asphalt. It's dark but I figure once I start dry brushing and add some ice/snow it'll be a truly Fenrisian Christmas I use black lava for my stinky bois and it rules. You can shape and sculpt it as it's drying to make all sorts of shapes and flows and the grain is perfect for the scale of our space dolls. I usually lightly glue the figure to the bare base, paint the man, then snap it off and then build up and paint the base. You'll probably want to pin at least one foot though, I've had models come off their base and take a chunk of the black lava with them.
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Jul 15, 2019 12:35
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Ty Moon. Next question: 1) is there a quick way to find out which paints I need for each model? The citadel app only has the rubric marines and tzangors (sp). I want to get some terminators as well and don't want to have to do a second order.
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Jul 15, 2019 12:37
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adamantium|wang posted:I use black lava for my stinky bois and it rules. You can shape and sculpt it as it's drying to make all sorts of shapes and flows and the grain is perfect for the scale of our space dolls. I usually lightly glue the figure to the bare base, paint the man, then snap it off and then build up and paint the base. You'll probably want to pin at least one foot though, I've had models come off their base and take a chunk of the black lava with them. I've done a few bases and this stuff rules. It's a full diorama frenzy using Vallejo water, lava and snow right now.
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Jul 15, 2019 12:45
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notaspy posted:Ty Moon. The poo poo here in this would be all the colors that you need to paint thousand Sons https://youtu.be/-HOLM7dXiyk
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Jul 15, 2019 12:46
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notaspy posted:Hello cool dudes, 1. You should probably avoid contrasts if you're not planning on painting a large number of models and aren't in a rush to field them in a game. They're great for some technical applications and for getting an army tabletop ready but by themselves they just look 'ok'. If you want really good looking models, your best bet is to take the time to learn different paint application techniques such as glazing, washing, blending and dry brushing and learn when and where to use them for best results. 2. You can take paint off, but this is difficult to do without leaving residue in cracks and recesses on a plastic model or (dissolving details on the plastic). My advice would be to pick up some cheap miniatures you don't mind messing up for practice, even just some dollar store dinosaurs or zoo animals. Even if you watch a tutorial on paint techniques it'll take some time to get a feel for them and figure out which surfaces they work best on. 4. If a brush has a size rating it will be pretty close to the same size as others with the same rating. The biggest difference I see across brands is usually the length of the bristles and quality of the tip. If they're Kolinsky they'll probably be excellent quality, but you'll want to make sure that the tips aren't frayed or bent from being handled in store. You'll also want to pick up a couple cheap brushes for dry-brushing or applying PVA and gels as no amount of care will prevent those from getting ruined over time.
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Jul 15, 2019 13:07
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notaspy posted:Hello cool dudes, 1) if you are only into painting I would advice against contrast. I find I get better results doing the base, wash, layer, highlight route. Plus you will learn a lot more about paints that way. Also I would don't get games workshop paints. Other brands are way cheaper, just as good and come in much better bottles. The Vallejo starter box is meant to be good. 2) Don't bother. Just paint more minis, then you can see how far you have progressed. 3) I donno. 4) buy a bunch of really cheap brushes. And use them for basing and the wash stages. For the more technical stuff when I have to use a good brush, I really like the Raphael size 1. A bigger brush with a sharp point is what you need, not a tiny brush. 5) Learn to mix paints. It's way cheaper. 6) bonus stuff I have learnt over the last year. Make yourself a wet paillette. They are amazing. Brush strokes matter finish the stroke where you want the paint to end up. People go on about thinning your paints, but honestly you don't always have to, wet blending with unthinned paints when getting down the base is awesome and gets some great results!
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Jul 15, 2019 13:14
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notaspy posted:Hello cool dudes, 2) Biostrip 20 is fantastic for stripping models. I don't know about other regions but it's easy enough to get in the UK. It comes in a spray bottle but it's better to just pour it into a container and dunk the models in. 3) Assuming you mean https://elementgames.co.uk/, then yes, they're great. I've been getting most of my stuff from them recently. Usually next day delivery if you order early enough.
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Jul 15, 2019 13:26
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GigaFuzz posted:2) Biostrip 20 is fantastic for stripping models. I don't know about other regions but it's easy enough to get in the UK. It comes in a spray bottle but it's better to just pour it into a container and dunk the models in. "Super clean" here, won't damage your dollies.
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Jul 15, 2019 13:33
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Irate Tree posted:I know that's supposed to be dirt on their feet and greaves but i love the idea that they've just been making wine out of people and haven't bothered washing off. drat dude. That’s now my fluff. The boys just climbed out of the people wine pit.
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Jul 15, 2019 14:11
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:They'll probably stick fine but if you're really worried you can just pin one or both feet to the base. It's dead simple to do. Yeah, with anything I can't plastiglue I always consider at least 1 pin mandatory. It can be fiddly until you get familiar with it but it's a mandatory skill if you plan to work with resin or metal.
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Jul 15, 2019 14:13
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Harvey Mantaco posted:"Super clean" here, won't damage your dollies. been using this on metal and plastic, works like a charm. Also has added bonus of dissolving super glue, so if you buy poo poo that was assembled by kindergartners, you can reassemble with some TLC.
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Jul 15, 2019 14:41
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jassi007 posted:been using this on metal and plastic, works like a charm. Also has added bonus of dissolving super glue, so if you buy poo poo that was assembled by kindergartners, you can reassemble with some TLC. My break up anything that isn't plastic glue is freeze, hairdry (do get maximum retraction and expansion from glue) then super clean bath (after the first two steps so it can get into the cracks a bit better) If it's not plastic glue, it's coming apart clean.
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Jul 15, 2019 14:45
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BoneMonkey posted:5) Learn to mix paints. It's way cheaper. I strongly suggest against this for a first army, or any army with lots of models. There is enough to focus on with learning to paint without also introducing having to replicate colours consistently. When I started I mixed my colours mostly and it is very obvious when I look at that army, these days I can mix accurately and consistently, but focus on the basics without generating any extra frustration.
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Jul 15, 2019 14:56
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R0ckfish posted:I strongly suggest against this for a first army, or any army with lots of models. There is enough to focus on with learning to paint without also introducing having to replicate colours consistently. When I started I mixed my colours mostly and it is very obvious when I look at that army, these days I can mix accurately and consistently, but focus on the basics without generating any extra frustration. Mix paints for things like feathering through 4 different levels of grey while painting a black robe or something. Way better than trying to find 4 different greys. Don't mix paints for your main basecoat / highlight / shade.
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Jul 15, 2019 15:06
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adamantium|wang posted:I use black lava for my stinky bois and it rules. You can shape and sculpt it as it's drying to make all sorts of shapes and flows and the grain is perfect for the scale of our space dolls. I usually lightly glue the figure to the bare base, paint the man, then snap it off and then build up and paint the base. You'll probably want to pin at least one foot though, I've had models come off their base and take a chunk of the black lava with them. Glob it on thick, wait five or so minutes for it to dry a little bit, then press it flat for instant asphalt for your urban stuff, too. Black lava's great stuff.
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Jul 15, 2019 15:06
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Booley posted:Mix paints for things like feathering through 4 different levels of grey while painting a black robe or something. Way better than trying to find 4 different greys. Don't mix paints for your main basecoat / highlight / shade. This is the best answer!
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Jul 15, 2019 15:07
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grassy gnoll posted:Glob it on thick, wait five or so minutes for it to dry a little bit, then press it flat for instant asphalt for your urban stuff, too. Black lava's great stuff. I think I'm in love with it.
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Jul 15, 2019 15:09
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Finished some Blackstone Fortress Traitor Guardsmen last night. Mostly done in Contrast, except for the black armor bits, metallics, goggle lenses, bases and blood splatter.  
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Jul 15, 2019 17:17
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they're so pretty
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Jul 15, 2019 17:26
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x-posting some completed Soviets from the Great Patriotic War.Zuul the Cat posted:Over about 2.5 days I painted all the infantry for my Soviet Stalingrad force from Bolt Action using the new contrast paints. For the amount of effort vs. outcome, they're pretty handy. I need to finish basing a few of them and paint up my T-34, but aside from that they're done!
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Jul 15, 2019 17:41
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I think contrast paints for a new painter is generally a good idea. I understand they're overhype, but all the new/super casual painters I've talked to love the poo poo out of them. Obviously, they're not the end-all be-all of painting, but they're cheaper than having to buy base coats and washes separately, and new painters don't have to worry about thinning etc. I know a lot of good painters have little use for them and realize they're just a thick glaze, but I think they're a good product for someone just starting out.
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Jul 15, 2019 17:58
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I'm not just starting out.
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Jul 15, 2019 18:01
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I started painting in the mid 90's and I enjoy Contrast.
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Jul 15, 2019 18:15
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The bridge (from earlier), it is painted. I almost redid the stone work as I hated the red and yellow stone, but a second wash and looking at it under normal (not paint bench) lights and I was OK with it.     (My band of warriors for Rangers of Shadow Deep)
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Jul 15, 2019 18:16
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Indolent Bastard posted:The bridge (from earlier), it is painted. That bridge looks awesome. I love the variation in the stone.
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Jul 15, 2019 18:17
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Zuul the Cat posted:That bridge looks awesome. I love the variation in the stone. I still need to seal it with flat varnish and add some moss flock here and there, but I'm fairly happy with it.
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Jul 15, 2019 18:22
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Hixson posted:5 more terminators to the pile This is almost too good
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Jul 15, 2019 18:42
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R0ckfish posted:I strongly suggest against this for a first army, or any army with lots of models. There is enough to focus on with learning to paint without also introducing having to replicate colours consistently. When I started I mixed my colours mostly and it is very obvious when I look at that army, these days I can mix accurately and consistently, but focus on the basics without generating any extra frustration. Ah yeah like booley said, I meant mix up and down from your base. I should of been way more clear. Also I generally don't try and get much consistency because once I have layer in all the shadows and light sources and stuff what ever the base hue is rarely matters. But the way I paint is terrible for getting entire armies done. So there is that too.
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Jul 15, 2019 18:44
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Mugaaz posted:I think contrast paints for a new painter is generally a good idea. I understand they're overhype, but all the new/super casual painters I've talked to love the poo poo out of them. Obviously, they're not the end-all be-all of painting, but they're cheaper than having to buy base coats and washes separately, and new painters don't have to worry about thinning etc. I know a lot of good painters have little use for them and realize they're just a thick glaze, but I think they're a good product for someone just starting out. lmao
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Jul 15, 2019 19:36
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Corrode posted:lmao Not really sure what you’re getting at, nothing they said is wrong.
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Jul 15, 2019 21:05
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Jul 15, 2019 22:45
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