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Letmebefrank posted:I have this ancient rotary phone from 60s that has been waiting for better days since I gave up wired telephone connections. Thinking what to do with that. I was looking at the idea of putting a vintage phone on SIP a while ago, and I dug up this https://www.cell2jack.com https://www.amazon.com/Cell2jack-Cellphone-Adapter-Receive-landline/dp/B089984QRT Certainly looks, uh, amateur, but it’s a very niche product and I assume the customer base (and maybe the creator) are senior citizens. This one does support rotary, I was looking for that too.
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Jan 27, 2022 18:04
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rockcity posted:I’m having an issue with a swing arm LED reading light that I’m hoping someone knows what I need to replace. The light is a dimmable LED that I’ve had for about 8 years now and has functioned fine until recently. About a month ago, the light stopped working correctly and only just baaarely turns on when I press the power switch. I wrote to the light manufacturer and they said it’s probably the LED module so I ordered a new one from a local light store and plugged it in, but it’s still having the same issue. I opened up the light and there is an LED driver and also a dimmer module. My guess is it is one of these two that has failed but I’m not sure which one and don’t want to order the wrong part. My best guess is it’s the driver and basically some very low trickle of power is going through it to just barely fire the LED module, but I could also see that maybe the dimmer module is somehow stuck at an extremely low setting. The light is dimmer than even the dimmest setting I can get my second version of this same light to. I could tear them both apart and try to swap parts to test, but I figured I’d try asking here before I went down that road. How's the dimmer module connected? Depending on the circuitry you could try just removing it and see if the problem's still there. e: Also obligatory comment about being real careful working around stuff that plugs into the wall, make sure capacitors are discharged if you're gonna take stuff apart, etc.
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Jan 27, 2022 19:21
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Post some pictures of the LED module and the dimmer. Do you have a multimeter?
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Jan 27, 2022 20:17
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Sagebrush posted:Post some pictures of the LED module and the dimmer. Do you have a multimeter?  I do have a multimeter. There are three wires coming off the dimmer button itself, a yellow trigger wire and a black and white wire. These were disconnected because they are a light for the switch that is on when not in use and we did not want that on as they're nightstand lights. Power seems to start with driver and then run through the dimmer, then head to the LED module on the swing arm. I'm guessing I want to disconnect that connector coming out of the LED driver and test it with a multimeter to see if it's getting 12V. If it's getting 12V, I would assume my issue is with the dimmer module, right? EDIT: UPDATE - I disconnected the connector coming out of the LED driver and it's 12V so I think the driver is fine. I tested the wires coming out of the dimmer module and I'm only getting 2V. I've held the dimmer button to try to adjust that, but it's staying steady at 2V. I'm not sure if that's something dimmer modules might do or if this is maybe a problem with the switch connected to the dimmer module. It definitely turns the LED module itself on and off, but it is as faint as possible without being completely off. It's also seeming to read 2V on those wires whether not not the switch is on or off. DOUBLE EDIT: I tested the other light and it's getting the correct range of Volts with the dimmer while the other one is just reading 2V constantly. I'm pretty sure the module is failing since it's listed as 5V-24V and it's reading below that. The problem is that I can't find the same exact one anywhere online. I'm guessing I can use one with similar specs as long as it's dimmable and has the switch wires, yes? Something like this: https://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/flexblock-buck-boost-dc-led-driver rockcity fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jan 27, 2022 |
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Jan 27, 2022 21:00
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Shame Boy posted:I have no complaints about the DS1054z, I'm sure the Siglent works fine too, though for debugging SPI you might wanna start with something like a Bus Pirate or one of these cheap-rear end logic analyzers: Update, this thing + Pulseview kicks rear end. I've been able to verify that the slave device is indeed sending back a value, but for some reason when I read SSPBUF on the PIC it still returns 0. Clearly I'm loving up somewhere... I wish PIC examples online were better, or that the Microchip forums weren't the most hostile place on the Internet.
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Jan 28, 2022 02:07
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Yeah, they're so bad. I used to like to search github for example initialization of PIC peripherals
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Jan 28, 2022 02:27
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A friend asked me to take a look at her cheap rechargeable headphones, as she didn't know if it was an issue with the dock or the battery stopping it from charging. I know poo poo all, but can use a screwdriver and check for bad capacitors or anything easy like that. Anyway, I was shocked to discover I could get at the battery and I'm no expert but this LiPo is baked, right? I haven't tried to remove it but I don't see any markings on the top surface. If it is completely unmarked, is another that is the same physical size likely to be a good replacement, or are there wildly different voltage/capacity ratings for the same size package? This is the same physical size: https://core-electronics.com.au/polymer-lithium-ion-battery-400mah-38456.html
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Jan 28, 2022 02:29
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Don't leave that inside.
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Jan 28, 2022 02:31
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Yeah that's entirely hosed. It is puffed up like that because it's full of hydrogen. Put it in a ceramic flowerpot and put it outside not near anything flammable, then take it to an e-waste collection site.
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Jan 28, 2022 02:37
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Gromit posted:A friend asked me to take a look at her cheap rechargeable headphones, as she didn't know if it was an issue with the dock or the battery stopping it from charging. I know poo poo all, but can use a screwdriver and check for bad capacitors or anything easy like that. Same size will be fine. The only thing that will change with size is the capacity, but batteries like that will all be in the same ballpark. That one linked should be fine. When peeling the tape off make sure not to rip the battery open. Also maybe do it outside and above something you can just drop the fuming hot battery into. I'm curious why it swelled though, how old is it?
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Jan 28, 2022 02:41
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Thanks everyone, great to get confirmation. Apparently the thing is 4 or 5 years old. Just spoke with her again and she said I might as well remove the battery and dispose of it and she'll get something new and better, so I guess I dodged having to do any real work. Thanks again for the info, though.
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Jan 28, 2022 03:50
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Pham Nuwen posted:Update, this thing + Pulseview kicks rear end. I've been able to verify that the slave device is indeed sending back a value, but for some reason when I read SSPBUF on the PIC it still returns 0. Clearly I'm loving up somewhere... I wish PIC examples online were better, or that the Microchip forums weren't the most hostile place on the Internet. I haven't used a PIC in a while but I know on a lotta controllers the order you read/write to the SPI data register (and whether or not you do anything in between) matters, which hosed me up for a long time because a lot of examples and docs aren't super clear about that or only mention it in one sentence buried on page 500 or whatever.
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Jan 28, 2022 05:06
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Hey it's been a long time since I've done my old get drunk and shred some piece of salvaged electronics bit. I'm not actually drunk but anyway, get a load of this:     Is there any overriding reason I shouldn't part this out? I actually bought it for the enclosure. I'm looking at that meter and thinking that would make one badass VU meter. And those switches are awesome, look really solid. I personally have no use for this piece of gear that I can think of, but I don't rightly know what can be done with it. Any thoughts?
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Jan 31, 2022 05:41
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petit choux posted:LI'm not actually drunk but anyway, get a load of this: Good thread title imo
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Jan 31, 2022 05:46
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Oh and those little grey boxes, are those trimpots?
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Jan 31, 2022 05:51
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petit choux posted:Oh and those little grey boxes, are those trimpots? yah
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Jan 31, 2022 07:11
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Anyone have any recs for a book on learning Python, preferably with a Raspberry Pi flavor? I got my dad a Pi Zero 2 W for Christmas because he flies model rockets and likes to put cameras and stuff in there and I figure it'd be great for that. He's asking for a good book to pick up for learning python and I realize now that I just kinda picked up python by... writing something in it, since I'm a programmer and knew a bunch of other languages already, so I have no clue where to start for good programming reference books. My dad can sorta program, I think he knows BASIC and I know he knows a bunch of different assembler... stuff... so I guess it doesn't have to be Babby's First Program-level or anything.
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Feb 1, 2022 14:55
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Head first python is great for all skill levels
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Feb 1, 2022 15:02
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Python and a GPOS is the wrong choice for something that flies. Look at an MCU like Cortex-m, and C, C++, or Rust.
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Feb 2, 2022 09:18
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<easy intro project> is impractical for <tinkering project with vague problem statement>. Better use <extremely challenging tech that a boomer will definitely get overwhelmed by and bounce off>
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Feb 2, 2022 09:44
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All valid points, but I still think it's important to choose the right class of tools for the job. Python is a great choice for websites, as a calculator, prototyping, DSP design, numerical experiments etc.
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Feb 2, 2022 10:29
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To be clear he's an EE and back in the late 90's / early 00's he used to make his own boards with PIC's on them with various sensors for rockets that he'd code entirely in assembly (because "setting up a compiler seemed like too much of a hassle"). This is specifically so he can use the raspberry pi camera, because he's into cameras more than telemetry these days now and needs a camera that can do 60-90FPS, fit in the rocket, and not be expensive. He also thought it might be interesting to try out some modern accelerometers or gyro modules since they've come a long way in the last 20 years and you can just get them on premade boards now instead of having to etch and build your own, but that's really secondary to the camera stuff. I suggested python specifically cuz it seems to be the default language everyone uses for rpi projects that aren't particularly performance-critical (so there's gonna be a ton of support just googling around), and all he's gonna really need to do with it is some glue logic like "when this switch is flipped, start recording for 10 minutes" or something like that. Plus it's a fun excuse for him to get a rpi to play with, which he's been interested in for a little while. e: I should mention also that he spent the last 30 years of his career working on actual flies-into-space rockets so I think it's safe to say he knows a thing or two about rocket electronics lol Shame Boy fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Feb 2, 2022 |
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Feb 2, 2022 16:34
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Also if you're wondering why these are just cameras and measurements, it's because you can't actually actively control a model rocket in any way, since that turns it into a guided missile and you can't launch one of those without a special FAA license and clearance. Shame really cuz that seems like a fun goon project 
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Feb 2, 2022 16:40
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It's not like the pi will be critical to the success of the rocket. This sounds like a fun hobby project and python will allow for fast iteration to fix issues since it is pretty user friendly and doesn't demand exactness like C++ does. I'm sure your dad would rather be launching more rockets in the air than be sitting at his laptop frustrated because he's getting some confusing compiler error. If something goes wrong on one test, oh well, check the connections, look for errors and try again.
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Feb 2, 2022 16:44
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Cojawfee posted:It's not like the pi will be critical to the success of the rocket. This sounds like a fun hobby project and python will allow for fast iteration to fix issues since it is pretty user friendly and doesn't demand exactness like C++ does. I'm sure your dad would rather be launching more rockets in the air than be sitting at his laptop frustrated because he's getting some confusing compiler error. If something goes wrong on one test, oh well, check the connections, look for errors and try again. Currently his solution for his rocket camera project is "cheap no-name brand spy cameras from AliExpress" and he's only moving on from that because none of them support more than 30fps, so if anything this will be a step up in reliability and build quality lmao
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Feb 2, 2022 16:49
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Shame Boy posted:Also if you're wondering why these are just cameras and measurements, it's because you can't actually actively control a model rocket in any way, since that turns it into a guided missile and you can't launch one of those without a special FAA license and clearance. Shame really cuz that seems like a fun goon project
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Feb 2, 2022 18:08
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Building rocket control systems would be so cool Sucks about the laws and/or murdery intention
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Feb 2, 2022 18:09
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The worst part of rocketry is how much dang fuel you need to get anywhere. The energy needed to get escape velocity is truly absurd.
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Feb 2, 2022 18:32
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Thanks again for the help everyone, I finally got my microscope up and running with an LED retrofit! It originally had a halogen but the 90s electronics went bad at some point (not sure exactly what, but all the plastic inside was crunchy so plenty of possibilities) so I got it really cheap. A constant current LED driver (a buckblock in this case) easily fit inside the base and I could even mount the new 20k potentiometer in the same position as the original 5k one. With a Cree xl-m2 LED the light is a bit brighter and a lot cooler than the halogen with a pleasing color tone. I won't show my shameful soldering work but it got the job done. One important lesson I learned was to solder the wires to the LED before mounting it on a heat sink.
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Feb 5, 2022 23:04
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Nice! What are you planning to magnify?
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Feb 5, 2022 23:54
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I got a big pile of 'popout' stones from a former cash-4-gold proprieter, all the stones they removed from jewelry before sending them off for refining. They can be everything from the cheapest glass to fine gems, though the diamonds are typically picked out with a basic tester. I use a raman spectrometer for the heavy lifting on ID but a microscope is necessary for some aspects (particularly separating synthetic and natural stones). The tilting base makes it very ergonomical to use over long periods which is nice.
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Feb 6, 2022 01:14
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I guess, speaking of which, what's a good electronics microscope? I have reached the limit of my abilities with a magnifying glass. I hear binocular scopes are important ante fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Feb 6, 2022 |
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Feb 6, 2022 01:36
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You definitely want a stereo microscope, which have long working distances, lower magnification and two independent light paths for a true 3d view. In particular you'd want a 0.5x or similar reduction lens which further doubles working distance and reduces mag/widens your field of view. The industry standard is this model, which is a cheap somewhat simplified Chinese copy of the Meiji EMZ series These or other similar models, sold direct from China or under any of a dozen whitebox brands, are usually perfectly OK if you get a good copy (qc can sometimes be an issue as you'd guess). Personally I prefer used scopes from good brands, but it can be an annoying process since they have a decent chance of turning out to be misaligned one eye to another which will cause eye strain. Still, there can be great savings and a better product as well. A few models I like are the Nikon smz-1, smz-1b, smz-2b, Bausch and Lomb stereozoom 3, 4 or 5 (the 6 has worse build quality and the 7 has a short working distance), the Wild M3 or my favorite the Wild M7, or the Meiji EMZ series. Another great add-on is a ring light with a polarizer and rotatable analyzer to control reflections.
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Feb 6, 2022 02:59
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I'm pretty sure what Scarodactyl pictured is this model, AmScope SM-1TZ
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Feb 6, 2022 03:19
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What are you using the scope for? We recently got one of those CCD cameras at work (not the same model as the picture, similar construction) and after expanding the bed size to hold a decent sized PCB it's actually kind of nice. You aren't hunched over a scope for hours huffing solder smoke if you're doing an assembly, and can take photos or movies if you want to. You can also run a HDMI cable out to a full size monitor. Other than that, a binocular on a swing arm with a ring light is pretty nice. 
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Feb 6, 2022 03:28
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csammis posted:I'm pretty sure what Scarodactyl pictured is this model, AmScope SM-1TZ PDP-1 posted:What are you using the scope for? We recently got one of those CCD cameras at work (not the same model as the picture, similar construction)
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Feb 6, 2022 03:51
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Yeah, I've used a couple scopes that hook up to screens, but I can never quite get the light right to always see missing soldered pins. Always seems to require a lot of futzing with light angles and reflections
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Feb 6, 2022 03:53
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Getting the lights on the LCD scope in the right position is a pain, plus you have to work around the light arms with your soldering iron / probes. They're so cheap (<$200) that I just got one for my desk to read off part numbers or whatever and for SMT assembly I don't miss the 3D view since everything is pretty coplanar. We also have a Leica binocular on a swing arm with a ring light which gives you free access to whatever you're working on plus the 3D view but it's also really big and heavy and cost $$$, plus the hunching over for hours thing. 
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Feb 6, 2022 04:20
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Yeah I have a binocular scope on one of those arms like that, works pretty good. Definitely some random whitelabel thing though, I think it was like $150?
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Feb 6, 2022 04:38
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It really shouldn't involve hunching, but getting it individually tuned for proper ergonomics can be a pain (especially if there are others also using it). It might be easier to fine tune on one's own bench though, between the angle of the scope, height of the seat and height of the work surface. That all said I'm also just biased in favor of stereo microscopes because I like them. Kind of incidental, but this is a Leica frankenscope I set up for a friend (for engraving rather than electronics but same general requirements). It was pretty much a no-holds-barred build and fairly spendy but pretty neat with a poseable arm stand, high end surgical objective, 9.5:1 zoom and ultrawide eyepieces. Way overkill really even for advanced engraving work but a ton of fun to assemble. 
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Feb 6, 2022 04:41
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