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However, using lower temp sparge water may allow for some conversion while sparging.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:22
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If you're sparging, wouldn't the conversion already be done? To my understanding, there are not one but two goals for mashout: 1) stop the conversion, for example if you want a less-attentuated beer by favoring langer saccharide chains 2) rinse converted sugars out of the grain. Hotter water does both of these better than less-hot water.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:28
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True, but especially if you're doing BIAB sometimes you really want to push your efficiency. It's all relative to the process for the beer you're making and your system.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:33
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Well, it seems I have no impulse control whatsoever. Just ordered custom plates for my truck: ZYMURGY. If you see that (California) plate, it's me.
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Aug 11, 2015 01:43
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Does anyone brew with a cereal mash? I am finding conflicting info on how it works. A lot of the materials I am reading are clearly for commercial brewers making gluten free beer and are way over my head. I've got 4 lbs of raw buckwheat I was going to use, but I am a little puzzled how I'm supposed to be mashing it. I have access to very cheap non malted grain, so if like to figure this out for future beers too. I was under the impression you mash the cereal grains for ~30min aiming for the gelatinization temp of the grains, with 15-30% of your malted barley grist in order to have enzymes for conversion, then bring to a brief boil and add to primary mash. The gelatinization temperature for buckwheat appears to be as high as 170, much higher than most grains people do a cereal mash with. If I mash that high, I'll denature all the enzymes I need for conversion... Will I still get conversion from the starches in the buckwheat if I just mash @ 150-155 and then boil? It looks like some people are just throwing straight unmalted gain in a pot, boiling it for a bit and adding it to the main mash...
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Aug 11, 2015 17:44
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I've never done a cereal mash, but I think that's basically what you do. Boil unmalted grains in some water until they're gelatinized so the starches are accessible, then add to the main mash for conversion.
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Aug 11, 2015 17:50
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Has there been any discussion of Wort In A Can yet? Seems like a good idea, kinda pricey though.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:01
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more falafel please posted:I've never done a cereal mash, but I think that's basically what you do. Boil unmalted grains in some water until they're gelatinized so the starches are accessible, then add to the main mash for conversion. That's my understanding also - boil ground, unmalted cereals to gelatinize the starches, then mix the porridge with a barley-based grist to provide enzymes for conversion. But I asked that at the Anheuser-Busch plant in Ft. Collins, CO, and they told me that they add uncooked rice directly to a mash of six-row and two-row. I'm not 100% sure that what the guy said was accurate, but that's what he told me. I'll try to remember to ask a guy I know about it next time I see him - might be a while, though.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:08
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bewbies posted:Has there been any discussion of Wort In A Can yet? Seems like a good idea, kinda pricey though. There was some discussion last page about it. Starting here: Scarf posted:Word, thanks!
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Aug 11, 2015 19:14
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Jo3sh posted:Well, it seems I have no impulse control whatsoever. Just ordered custom plates for my truck: ZYMURGY. If you see that (California) plate, it's me. Just gonna assume you got the cool new black/yellow plates...I'm jealous I didn't think of that.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:22
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Lots of other cool options I verified as available in California as of a couple days ago: ZYM URGE YEAST I [heart] YEAST FERMENT MALTOSE ALL MALT AMYLASE HI GRAV 1060+ KEGGLES I BREW IDOBREW And, no, I just got the white/blue plates. Seems weird to me to have black plates on a vehicle newer than 1960s. Even my parents' old '67 bug had blue/yellow plates, and the truck is a '94.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:35
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Jo3sh posted:That's my understanding also - boil ground, unmalted cereals to gelatinize the starches, then mix the porridge with a barley-based grist to provide enzymes for conversion. I wonder if they flake it first. It would still be "uncooked" but could go straight in the mash. Is a cereal mash really that simple? If it's just making a big pot of "oatmeal" I may have to do it with the buckwheat. It was looking like more and more work the more I looked into it. I'd even toyed with malting the grains myself, but that looked like a huge pain.
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Aug 11, 2015 20:52
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Jo3sh posted:Lots of other cool options I verified as available in California as of a couple days ago: I wonder if YEAST has been rejected before, seems surprising that hasn't been taken. The morality judges at the DMV department who go through those have disqualified some really iffy things before. Mine's a 4-letter black/yellow plate (I have a black truck, it was hard to resist) that people are going to confuse for a brewery's initials but IDGAF. Speaking of, wonder if IDGAF's been taken, haha. ON TOPIC: Chilling  - I have a sump pump but I'm very aware of the fact that it pushes water too quickly, which makes the chill time take longer. It is safe to restrict the OUT flow of water from the pump? I'm just assuming it's not good for the pump to have the IN restricted...
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Aug 11, 2015 21:11
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wattershed posted:I wonder if YEAST has been rejected before, seems surprising that hasn't been taken. The morality judges at the DMV department who go through those have disqualified some really iffy things before. Mine's a 4-letter black/yellow plate (I have a black truck, it was hard to resist) that people are going to confuse for a brewery's initials but IDGAF. Speaking of, wonder if IDGAF's been taken, haha. I always defer to you guys as the experts, but I've read conflicting opinions on how fast you should have water running through a chiller. I've read that you want the water to be as cold as possible at all times, so that'd mean running cold water through the heat exchanger faster, wouldn't it? The only down side is you'd be wasting water. But are you recirculating? Wort gets chilled by being exposed to a cold surface. Temperature and surface area are the two main points. So the colder your chiller the better, right? If you have warm water just taking it's time rolling through your chiller how is that making the chill any faster? As far as pump technology, yes - you can restrict flow out no problem. A threaded ball valve should do the trick. Edit: And as far as the plate goes, in NY you can provide a reason for your vanity plate choice. You could say it means I Deal with Gravity, Attenuation, and Flocculation. Edit 2: And yes it is bad to restrict the inlet flow of most pumps. You want to start a pump with it flooded. I don't even have a wort pump, I just know this. Haha. And really, from my engineering background I really think the colder and faster the water flowing, the faster the chill. However, of course you're wasting water while saving time. So you've got to find a balance. But the theory, "hey the water is warmer coming out of the chiller when I turn down the faucet so I must be chilling it faster" is wrong. It's more towards the efficient end of the curve, but not helping with the time aspect. I make 5 - 10 gallons a month in my kitchen/basement so am I going to fill out a log mean temperature difference to get peak efficiency? Well...my water bill was $100 this time around so maybe I should! yamdankee fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Aug 11, 2015 |
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Aug 11, 2015 21:35
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New mash tun came in today. Very excited! http://imgur.com/a/o94K3 I have to wait like two weeks to use it though. 
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Aug 11, 2015 22:24
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Time to bottle my first batch... If I didn't accidentally create a biological weapon. Did I? http://m.imgur.com/erCcLKe That image is a little more yellow than real life, on account of crappy lighting in my storeroom, just FYI.
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Aug 11, 2015 23:23
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MaximumBob posted:Time to bottle my first batch... If I didn't accidentally create a biological weapon. Did I? Looks fine. The stuff floating on top is yeast, or possibly proteins.
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Aug 11, 2015 23:33
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... and further, you can't actually make biological weapons out of malt, hops, and yeast. If it gets contaminated, it can smell and taste bad, but even that won't do anything but make you not want to drink it. If it tastes like beer, it's beer. And you made that beer, so you win.
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Aug 11, 2015 23:45
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yamdankee posted:I've read conflicting opinions on how fast you should have water running through a chiller. I've read that you want the water to be as cold as possible at all times, so that'd mean running cold water through the heat exchanger faster, wouldn't it? The only down side is you'd be wasting water. But are you recirculating? Yep, more flow means better cooling. I tend to throttle mine down to minimize water usage, but if I were using a submersible pump in a swimming pool full of cold water or something, I'd run it wide open. Slowing the flow down does mean that the smaller amount of exhaust water will be warmer, but that doesn't mean that you're pulling more heat out of the wort per minute; it means you're pulling out more per gallon of cooling water.
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Aug 11, 2015 23:52
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yamdankee posted:...I really think the colder and faster the water flowing, the faster the chill. However, of course you're wasting water while saving time. So you've got to find a balance. But the theory, "hey the water is warmer coming out of the chiller when I turn down the faucet so I must be chilling it faster" is wrong. It's more towards the efficient end of the curve, but not helping with the time aspect. ....yeah...the more I read up on it, the more I see I was wrong about flow rates, and I should be okay with my setup. I'm moving to a CFC from an IC and didn't do a ton of stirring in the kettle while the IC was in there. The pump with the kettle combined with the pump for the water should net me better results than I've seen previously. Thanks for the logic walk-through there, makes plenty of sense. Jo3sh posted:if I were using a submersible pump in a swimming pool full of cold water or something, I'd run it wide open. That's my setup, though I'm getting thwarted by summer right now. In previous summers with the IC I'd run it through with pool water to get it down to ~90° then switch over to a slushy ice chest to finish the job. I recall someone saying a while ago that using the chlorinated pool water every time would damage the chiller, but the water's in there for such a brief period of time and gets a wash/blow gun cleanout during the whole cleanup process so I'm not overly concerned about it. wattershed fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 11, 2015 23:58
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LaserWash posted:When it's done, I want to know how you liked WLP 833. I've been thinking of switching out my "in house" lager yeast and have been really thinking about going toward the 833, Ayinger strain. Picked up a vial yesterday, was actually the only one my lhbs had in stock, luckily it was off of a July batch. I was afraid I'd be stuck with an older vial. Also, don't know if this is common knowledge, but I'd never seen the link before... You can look up the lot # off of a White Labs vial and see some testing info on it here: https://www.yeastman.com/Login/Public/Report/PublicLabQCResult.aspx Making the starter today (with a step up coming in a few days) for my brew day on the 23rd. I love when my whole house smells like cooking DME 
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Aug 12, 2015 13:54
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Scarf posted:I love when my whole house smells like cooking DME The only thing that beats is when I make spent grain dog biscuits. The 2 hour post bake low oven temp dry time makes the house smell amazing.
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Aug 12, 2015 23:41
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I'm hoping to get a few thoughts on a potential DIPA recipe. BrewToad isn't let me save the recipe so here's what it looks like: 5-gallon batch, BIAB (I have a large turkey fryer) 9 lbs 2-row 5 lbs Munich 2 lbs Crystal 80L Hop Schedule: 1 oz Nelson Sauvignon @ 90 1 oz Citra @ 90 1 oz Simcoe @ 90 Same components at 10, 5, and whirlpool. Vermont Ale Yeast for 2-3 weeks, then bottling. My main question is regarding the hop schedule. Should I have a whirlpool addition or just dry hop the crap out of it?
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Aug 13, 2015 03:52
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the yellow dart posted:I'm hoping to get a few thoughts on a potential DIPA recipe. BrewToad isn't let me save the recipe so here's what it looks like: Edit: Nevermind, I misread, that should be pretty good. That's a similar amount of hops to what I just made, also with the Vermont Ale yeast and it's goddamn delicious. Might be a touch heavy on the crystal, but that's just me.
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Aug 13, 2015 03:54
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the yellow dart posted:I'm hoping to get a few thoughts on a potential DIPA recipe. BrewToad isn't let me save the recipe so here's what it looks like: 1) You already have just over 60 IBU with the 10 minute and 5 minute additions, why waste 3oz of expensive, tasty hops on an overkill 90 minute addition? That would give you almost 200 IBU, which is just ridiculous and a waste since you aren't going to actually be able to get that much bitterness in a beer anyway. Replace the 3 oz 90 minute Nelson, Citra, Simcoe addition with 0.5 - 1 oz of a neutral bittering hop at 90 minutes, like Warrior or Magnum, and use those 3 oz (preferably more) for a dry hop. 2) 12.5% of dark crystal malt is way too much. You are well into dark amber/red ale territory with your grain bill and it is going to be totally out of character for the style. 1 lb of crystal is plenty, preferably a lighter crystal (like 40L). Replace that missing pound of crystal with some sugar to add alcohol and dryness, or maybe some wheat malt to give it extra head and body. consensual poster fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Aug 13, 2015 |
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Aug 13, 2015 04:28
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nullfunction posted:New mash tun came in today. Very excited! Is that a big mouth bubbler or whatever they are called? I've been thinking of picking a few of them up because 6.5 gallon carboys are like loving $60+ at a LBS now.
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Aug 13, 2015 05:00
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Plinkey posted:Is that a big mouth bubbler or whatever they are called? I've been thinking of picking a few of them up because 6.5 gallon carboys are like loving $60+ at a LBS now. Nope, it's a mash tun, for getting sugars out of grain, not getting alcohol out of sugar. No experience with the big mouth bubbler, I ferment in 6.5 gallon buckets.
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Aug 13, 2015 05:53
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nullfunction posted:Nope, it's a mash tun, for getting sugars out of grain, not getting alcohol out of sugar. No experience with the big mouth bubbler, I ferment in 6.5 gallon buckets. drat it, I quoted the wrong post lol. MaximumBob posted:Time to bottle my first batch... If I didn't accidentally create a biological weapon. Did I? Same question.
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Aug 13, 2015 05:59
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Not been able to bottle some of my beers lately as with this chest infection a bit too risky. Anyway Hop & Brew did a new episode on tea in beer, just started watching it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuJeNKIKGTU
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Aug 13, 2015 07:30
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the yellow dart posted:I'm hoping to get a few thoughts on a potential DIPA recipe. BrewToad isn't let me save the recipe so here's what it looks like: My opinion is that you should whirlpool for 15-20 on all 3 maybe another ounce each. Also dry hop maybe 4-5 days after fermentation has finished. Also you should keep in mind that Vermont ale finishes SUPER FAST. Like 1090-->1012 in 8 days
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Aug 13, 2015 09:51
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the yellow dart posted:I'm hoping to get a few thoughts on a potential DIPA recipe. BrewToad isn't let me save the recipe so here's what it looks like: Use half that amount of crystal at the most, throw some sugar in there, don't bitter with expensive aroma hops as you won't get much flavor out of it anyway (use whatever with the highest AA%). A simple hop schedule of 90 - Hop Steep/Whirlpool - Dry Hop would be better for this style. Use 3 oz for the whirlpool, 3 oz for the dry hop and adjust the bittering to hit your IBU target (70+ for DIPA). Dry hop for no less than 3 and no more than 5 days. I disagree with the previous poster and think you should add the dry hop just as the fermentation is stopping (encourages yeast-hop interactions, theoretically stimulates extraction and reduces oxygenation if you time it right). thotsky fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Aug 13, 2015 |
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Aug 13, 2015 14:10
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Probably one of the best pieces of advice I've gotten from this thread is "use less crystal."
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Aug 13, 2015 14:27
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Biomute posted:Use half that amount of crystal at the most, throw some sugar in there, don't bitter with expensive aroma hops as you won't get much flavor out of it anyway (use whatever with the highest AA%). A simple hop schedule of 90 - Hop Steep/Whirlpool - Dry Hop would be better for this style. Use 3 oz for the whirlpool, 3 oz for the dry hop and adjust the bittering to hit your IBU target (70+ for DIPA). Dry hop for no less than 3 and no more than 5 days. I disagree with the previous poster and think you should add the dry hop just as the fermentation is stopping (encourages yeast-hop interactions, theoretically stimulates extraction and reduces oxygenation if you time it right). If you split the hops and do a whirlpool hop at a higher temp for 30min then throw the rest in for another 30-60min when it is 170 or so you should be able to get away with no hops in the boil at all. I just did this with an entire lb of falconers flight and the aroma is blowing my mind and its not even dry hopped yet. I would nix the crystal totally and just use sugar.
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Aug 13, 2015 15:32
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Der Penguingott posted:If you split the hops and do a whirlpool hop at a higher temp for 30min then throw the rest in for another 30-60min when it is 170 or so you should be able to get away with no hops in the boil at all. Personally I use a modified Hop-Fu/Pliny the Elder grain bill: 12.5 lb 2-Row 3.5 oz 40L Crystal 7 oz Carapils 10.5 oz Sucrose Using up to 5% crystal is fine in an IPA, but for DIPA less is more. If he's going to use lots of Munich then going without like you suggest is just fine (although I might throw in a bit of wheat in that case). thotsky fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Aug 13, 2015 |
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Aug 13, 2015 15:59
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Biomute posted:Personally I use a modified Hop-Fu/Pliny the Elder grain bill: My grain bill was: 52% Marris otter 30% two row 15% sugar 3% wheat Target og of 1.087, shooting for as dry as possible w/ fg, hopefully 80+% attenuation. I'm not 100% sure if that much Marris was a good idea, the color is a little darker than what I expected. It's kind of modified version of my hoppy wheat. I like a dry and pale IPA unless it's super boozy, Ie 10%+ so I'm probably overly crystal phobic.
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Aug 13, 2015 16:24
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Der Penguingott posted:My grain bill was: That's a bit more sugar than I would use (I keep it to 10% max), but it looks good. For regular IPAs I think MO is great, especially with a bit of wheat to cut it. 80% MO, 10% Wheat and 10% Dark Munich is nice grainbill for malty but dry regular IPAs. Especially if you pair them with dry english yeasts like WLP007.
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Aug 13, 2015 17:04
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Want to try out yeast washing, since this seems pretty easy and a nice way to cut down costs. Except: the beer I'd be harvesting from was highly hopped, 6 ounces / 5 gallon batch I think, and the gravity is right around the limit wyeast is recommending for harvesting. Plus I'd be able to harvest Friday but want to brew Monday, so I wouldn't have time to do a starter and would just have to pitch some of the harvest directly. Should I just be skipping this for now and try it out next time? Or go for it?
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Aug 13, 2015 17:49
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Want to try out yeast washing, since this seems pretty easy and a nice way to cut down costs. Washing is too much effort. Use an extra 200-300ml in your starter, save the excess in a sanitized mason jar. Use that to make another starter for your next beer.
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Aug 13, 2015 19:47
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Plinkey posted:drat it, I quoted the wrong post lol. Doesn't look like any of the big mouth bubblers we own. We have both plastic and glass BMBs in both 5.5 and 6.5 gallon sizes. They're wonderful.
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Aug 13, 2015 19:51
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Anyone have any favorite specialty grains for an Imperial Stout? Hoping to write a recipe up and get one brewed by mid-fall and hopefully have it ready to drink by late winter.
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Aug 14, 2015 01:31
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