|
Commodore_64 posted:They claim to do .9kg of aluminum in a crucible, so maybe .8 or so in reality. I was thinking you could do a lost pla casting in plaster or green sand. I've been really interested in trying this lately so I was curious. Ah, we discussed that a bit, but I was worried it was out of my skill level. Solidworks currently shows a weight of over 3 kg, and the print time for a prototype is estimated at like 15 hours. Here is the current version I’m working with, all one piece with a way to actually get nuts on, hence the funny runner shape on one.  Xometry wants “only” $1.5k for the pair, which is getting into less insane price territory. Yay, new helmet that is way nicer than my old one.  And now let’s drive to Oklahoma and drive a crossfire with a huge wing stuck on it. 
|
#
?
May 2, 2024 07:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 18:40 |
|
|
Well this thread jumped the shark in an amazing way, I didn't expect to see home brew supercharger intake casting planning today but here we are. Love it.Commodore_64 posted:Sorry to be coy / not explain fully. I was just wondering if it could be cast from the standard crucible a hobbyist electric furnace. Something like https://www.amazon.com/TOAUTO-Upgra...142&sr=8-2&th=1 Aluminum casting has been something I've been intending to get into one day for a while now, you're in the greater PDX area right? Lemme know when you have more solid plans and I'm down to be a second or third set of hands on the project, I'm only a few hours away now. I've done a bit of background research and a little very amateurish casting using scrap 6061 (not ideal, you want a356 or a357 or similar) decades ago but not really anything of note. Depending on Dr Rocksalt's interest in us derailing his thread we might want to move the discussion elsewhere though 
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2024 09:26
|
|
|
If home casting a custom aluminum supercharger intake doesn't count as mad science, what really does?
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2024 19:25
|
|
|
kastein posted:Well this thread jumped the shark in an amazing way, I feel like this is akin to “I’m not mad, just disappointed” from a forums dad. But by all means, I’m all ears for homebrew casting talk. We got to Hallet Raceway, and it was a great time. The crossfire drove great the entire first day, and we were holding second in the class. I drove decently quick with zero black flags and only one minor error: lost radio coms battery due to a dead fuse and came in to get it swapped because I didn’t know when to pit. I did about two hours or so, it felt great, and I managed to get us to first in class before my radio mess up. Legitimately might have been the most fun I’ve had in a race car. Second day, we woke up to rain, which continued through until about two hours before the end of the race. Because it has an open diff it was hard to put down steady power. Paired with a black flag or two from a few of our other drivers took us to third by one lap, twelfth overall. But it was an awesome time.   End of race, coming off pit:  When the dudes that built this crossfire were building the Cadillac engined Miata, they took the seats from the caddy and built a mobility scooter powered pit couch. It was enough oomph to pull people in our fuel wagons, like here at the end of the first day checker flag:  Hallet Raceway’s owner is apparently obsessed with chickens. The place is decorated with chicken statues everywhere. Every morning at 7 am they play this over the intercom: https://youtu.be/0AvNNMwXH38?si=sEhm2FW6SNm7GwFI I had to buy a shirt:  Seen near the parts store in OK: I’m not “farting,” I’m making 
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2024 18:39
|
|
|
Dr Rocksalt posted:Solidworks currently shows a weight of over 3 kg, and the print time for a prototype is estimated at like 15 hours. Here is the current version I’m working with, all one piece with a way to actually get nuts on, hence the funny runner shape on one. How thick are your runner walls? They look very thick there and this is probably contributing to your issues with having to have an odd runner at the end. I saw earlier you had an angle to flat adapter for the intake where it bolts to the heads, would it maybe make more sense to keep the bolts angled with respect to the intake and just use longer bolts? You could then beef up the space between runners to support the weight of the supercharger and thin out the walls as they won't be as structural as previously. Hopefully that makes sense. It did in my head at least. E: I was thinking the block was drilled like on the right, but from looking more through the photos it looks like it's the situation on the left where the bolts are oriented vertically and are at an angle to the machined surface on the head, correct?  Maybe a thinner runner and a cap screw to hold the intake in place would work, you can use a ball socket allen key to deal with the clearance issue rather than bumping in that one runner. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 21:56 on May 6, 2024 |
|
#
?
May 6, 2024 19:00
|
|
|
Bajaha posted:E: I was thinking the block was drilled like on the right, but from looking more through the photos it looks like it's the situation on the left where the bolts are oriented vertically and are at an angle to the machined surface on the head, correct? You’re correct here; it’s like on the left. At the moment the design is turned over to a team mate who does real production mechanical engineering for a job, he has ideas. I also requested Fictiv quotes but they’re taking forever. I’ve heard they can be cheaper than Xometry. I got the heads put on the 351, and they look cool as hell.  That may be all they’re good for, because as I was handling them, they sounded like maracas. I had to do the guitar pick move for a long time, and use air and picks to get out a bunch of chips. Here’s hoping I got them all, but I guess this is what you get for eBay specials.  Here’s where I eat crow and admit I overlooked something. I wanted to be cheap and reuse the stock rockers, but these heads have the biglarge 7/16” stud hole, so they won’t work. I now have to get studs, rockers, etc. And because I’m in over my head, I need to figure out if I need guide plates, or rail style rockers and and and and 😬 Speaking of not being the smartest man ever, a JK41 (newer version of the CD009 six speed from a 350z) popped up for sale locally, with the caution that it was “stuck in gear.” I lowballed him and got it for probably still too much. I saw some videos saying it was probably just a stuck linkage lever inside, so I tore it open and got it freed up.  Going back together:  And almost done.  So the plan here is that I want this behind the engine of an actually decent lemons car. If I went full crazy, you can even get sequential shifters for it, which is pretty dang cool, but very spendy. I’m not ready to start the build yet, and I don’t even have the shell bought, but I figure I can start gathering pieces. Goal now would be to do something full dumb on the Volvo like the supercharger, win a class or maybe Index of Effluence (the “congrats you did something so drat dumb, even we were impressed” award), then let it retire, then build a new thing. Gee whiz, there are only five weeks until the full 24 hour race, and we’re using the Starlet. It’s mostly fine, but has plenty of small maintenance that needs done. Like the fire bottle needs its two year revert. Turns out it’s incredibly frustrating to get a shipper to accept and send a fire extinguisher. 
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2024 02:17
|
|
|
I’m going to have to beg for help here on this dang 351 build. If I go the self aligning rockers, I can avoid hardened pushrods and skip guide plates. But I don’t know if I have enough valve stem above the keepers to allow that, and I can’t find definitive answers on the internet. Does anyone know if my 0.132” above the keeper is enough? This isn’t a high revving version for my dad, so I’d rather not splash out even more money for that stuff. I’m having buyers remorse not just rebuilding the stock heads, ugh.  The factory Dunlop summer tires on the WRX were roasted, so I went with Pilot Sport 4S summers this time. I have only a few miles on, but dang they seem great so far. Yes, I know I need to clean these wheels.  I finally got up the motivation to load the Volvo on the top of the lift so I could check out the trans leak. It looks comical with the Festiva underneath.  It wasn’t clear last night if it was just the pan or if it’s the tail housing, so hopefully after cleaning it last night there is evidence today where it’s coming from. The downside of having a lift: now it’s too easy to see all the other stuff to fix. From underneath I saw how crooked the exhaust was, thanks to a loose and stripped V band, and a mystery power steering drip I’ll need to trace. At least it’s not as much of a pain in the neck as laying under it.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2024 17:17
|
|
|
Not that I know the answer to your question, but do you mean ball pivot rockers? Sliding tip or roller?
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2024 19:10
|
|
|
Commodore_64 posted:Not that I know the answer to your question, but do you mean ball pivot rockers? Sliding tip or roller? Apparently small block Fords come in two flavors of rocker arm; self aligning and non self aligning when not using the OEM style. The self aligning (aka “rail style”) ones have a rim around the tip to keep it from walking off the valve stem, where as non aligning type use pushrod guide plates to keep them aligned? Picture stolen from some forum:  Using self-aligning for heads that aren’t designed for them can let those guide rails near the tip hit the valve keepers, pop one loose, drop a valve, and unleash hell. Stock style use the stamped U channel the rocker bases sit in to not allow any turning of them, again stolen from the internet: 
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2024 20:53
|
|
|
Ah, yeah. Now I follow. I have seen roller tips with the side flanges. When I heard self aligning, my thoughts went to Chevy style rocker balls. The potential clearance issue makes sense now, too.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2024 23:47
|
|
|
After letting the Volvo trans leak overnight, I was able to see the source: where the tail housing meets the main body, there’s a drip. I had suspected this, so I had this gasket in hand already. This time I used some auto trans rtv to really show it who’s boss. You can see it coming down from below the head of this bolt and then pooling on the lip of the case.  Now to try to solve the power steering drip I can’t seem to pinpoint. Next up, junkyard trip. Since this is a full 24 hour race in a bit, we’re going to try to get power steering in the Starlet. It’s a light car, but even so it’s tiring to drive at speed on track for hours, and we will need long sessions to be competitive. Easiest way for this is a Prius steering column, since it’s electric, and you just give it 12V power. I’ve pulled a couple of these before, so I’m getting the hang of it.  It’ll still be a lot of work to get done in a short time, but at least it’s not running hydraulic lines and getting a pump on the engine. Neat X1/9, wish it could have been saved:  Then stupidity happened. I figured I was already at the yard, and someone had already pulled a hub off an Explorer, which means I wouldn’t have to pull the other hub to get the rear diff out. A few bolts later and I have an IRS 8.8 for future project, with axles that I’ll need the CV from.  Then even worse stupidity. A Titan was there with the front grill and radiator already gone. What’s the harm in just pulling the engine? Besides it taking a long time and kicking my rear end. So after an afternoon’s work plus a little more the following morning, I own a VK56. Unfortunately I messed up and when hoisting it out of the truck at home, the lousy engine hoist tipped. Ruined the power steering bracket (didn’t need), idler pulley (replaceable), valve cover oil fill (ouch), and broke the alternator connector ($ouch). I don’t think it’s too messed up otherwise. My pride is hurt and so is the truck’s tailgate, but I suppose all in all it’s not so bad.  Starting to look like a chop shop around here; I need to get parts INTO cars.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2024 17:59
|
|
|
I have zero use for them, but I think I'd have been seriously tempted to grab the wheels off that X1/9. I'm surprised to see wheels on junkyard cars in the first place. That Explorer IRS is a good pull, too.
Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 18:14 on May 21, 2024 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2024 18:12
|
|
|
I've got a project coming up that I'd love to put a 3g explorer IRS in, they seem ideal for a lot of things. You can probably get a replacement alternator regulator from aspwholesale for way less than a whole new alt, at least. I want more info on that Prius EPS too - we're looking at putting EPS in the enduro car if the $free.99 f250 transmission cooler doesn't keep the fluid from boiling.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2024 02:32
|
|
|
I love that going for one part turned into that part, a diff, and an engine.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2024 02:43
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:I love that going for one part turned into that part, a diff, and an engine. I miss junkyarding (haven't had reason to go for a few years), you never know what you're gonna find. But yes, lol that's pretty funny how much "bonus" stuff you found.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2024 11:19
|
|
|
Nice wagon!
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2024 13:46
|
|
|
casque posted:Nice wagon! Wish I could take credit, but the yard has several of these as first come, first serve totes. honda whisperer posted:I love that going for one part turned into that part, a diff, and an engine. It’s even worse than this. We had most of the steering assembly, except the lower shaft and the control module. Because I get weird about “what if” or backups, I pulled a lower shaft and control module, but then also an entire extra assembly. Pure foolishness, but somehow it makes my brain feel better. kastein posted:I've got a project coming up that I'd love to put a 3g explorer IRS in, they seem ideal for a lot of things. The IRS is a 3.55, and I thought they came with an LSD, but this one doesn’t feel like it. Which is fine, I’d be putting a good limited slip and new gears in it anyway. Technically this should be fourth gen (2008?) but way easier to find than the old IRS people used to use out of a thunderbird or whatever it was. The reason I went with this is that you can get off the shelf conversions to go in an RX8 if I go that route. While the control unit for the Prius steering looks daunting, all you really need is twelve volts in; the rest of it is for bonus options if you want. I will admit I’ve never wired one yet, but Superfast Matt has a YouTube video putting one on his Jag. I have a unit to go into the International truck as well, which then makes the front end build cheaper because you just use a manual Mustang II rack instead of power.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2024 16:19
|
|
|
Some race prep stuff - gear inspection needled me a little bit about my gloves looking aged. Which is fair, they’re my first set of race gloves. I snagged this quite nice pair of Simpsons on sale for $80 shipped.  The last time the Starlet did a 24 Hour race, it was taking over for the broken Volvo, so the wiring on the lighted number signs was hurriedly done at 1 am. So I’m cleaning those up. We use these lighted drawing pads that are just strip less that shine across white paper with a somewhat rough piece of plastic. We then cut out the number in vinyl. The drawing pads run on low voltage, so we have to wire in a voltage regulator, which was poorly done last time. Cleaning it up now:  There are lots of other small things to prep the car that just aren’t terribly interesting but need to get done. On the Volvo, I located the power steering leak. Looks like the low pressure line where it goes from hard line to the crimped hose is leaking. I bought a barbed banjo to just ditch this hard line and will reroute.  Then on to designing more supercharger parts. First that missing intercooler piece. After a few prototypes on the 3D printer, I got it fitting nicely. It’ll go to ORB fittings to do either AN if I’m fancy or just hose barbs to the IC pump.  (Not as deep version to save print time, checking fit)  This intercooler uses some heat exchanger tubes that run through the plenum. Kind of interesting.  Since the Caddy was drive by wire, and the yard was charging a lot for it, we need a cable throttle body. Easiest is LS pattern. I’m not opposed to DBW but Microsquirt doesn’t support it and I don’t want to scope creep that bad. Again, printed test pieces:   Since I have to get the intercooler piece CNC-ed, I am going to spend the extra few bucks to use Xometry for this too, and nicely blend the 92 mm LS body to the 86 mm caddy side. It’s less from send cut send, but that way I’m not die grinding my life away. Final thing - idler pulley mount for the supercharger: 
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2024 17:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 18:40 |
|
|
Banjo to hose barb for the power steering arrived. It may still be seeping 😑 New pushrods for the 351W arrived, and while the valve stem contact isn’t great, it’ll work.  Which finally let the rockers go on.  Correct timing cover, gaskets, and water pump also on, then plopped the intake on.  This drat thing has fought me every step of the way, between aftermarket parts, too many 351W versions, and the ARP bolt kit being more miss than hit. At this rate I feel like there’s too much drag on from the piston rings when rotating it so I don’t even know what to think anymore, but maybe I’m just used to clapped out junkyard engines, not fresh rebuilds with unbroken-in rings. The LS throttle body for the 1UZ supercharger project arrived (whopping $50 from eBay). I didn’t realize how chunky it was, nor how stiff the spring would be. “Tapped” the 3D printed version of the adapter and mocked it up:  It “fits,” but the extra cable pull will need snipped. And also assumes the real version of adapters won’t be much chunkier than what I have mocked up.  The actual important task of prepping the Starlet is kind of uninteresting. Lots of maintenance, some coding to fix CANTbus bugs, some Megasquirt tuning and fixing, installed those light boards, tire swapping, brakes, fluids, seals etc. I keep forgetting to take pictures. The Prius steering column install is taking longer than expected, but I’m hands off of that since my race team partner is tackling it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2024 14:46
|
|