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Jaded Burnout posted:The other bit that feels weird to me is that I'm typically pushing the largest piece towards the fence to keep everything aligned and stable, but doing that when it's on the other side of the blade feels like it could get squirrelly near the end of the cut. just featherboard the poo poo out of everything
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# ? Jul 7, 2020 19:38 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 23:49 |
I got a grr-ripper and it’s been pretty sweet for otherwise more-sketchy stuff.
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# ? Jul 7, 2020 20:01 |
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I'm not sure what configuration of featherboard I could use to improve things here. Mitre gauge is what I was thinking too, but what I might do is use a magnetic stop block and cut from the side I normally cut from, so that way I can avoid having to calculate each cut.
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# ? Jul 7, 2020 20:03 |
Leperflesh posted:Unfortunately, Bolsonaro thinks destroying the Amazon (and especially the native peoples still living in it) is not just OK, but should be actively encouraged. Well, he's got covid-19 now, so, umm, there's that?
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# ? Jul 8, 2020 00:46 |
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Bad Munki posted:Awesome poo poo I love posts like these. They're the reason I come here. Your desk is awesome. You are crazy. Just like all of us. And now I need more pipe clamps...
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# ? Jul 8, 2020 01:01 |
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So the new place that my SO and I moved into had an extremely ugly mantle above the fireplace. (this is the staging photo) Rather than replace it completely I figured I'd take a shot at cleaning up the hunk of scrap wood they'd shoved up there. So far I've stripped all of the paint on top of it and sanded it down with 80 grit. One of the issues I've had so far though is that in the process I've discovered that the wood has a lot of unsightly black marks on it. I read online that these might be iron stains, which can be removed with a coat of barkeeper's friend or bleach. The photos above are from this morning after having wiped off the second try with BKF with a wet rag. It seems to have helped, but they're still pretty prominent. I'm planning on ultimately finishing the whole thing a with a water-based translucent cedar stain, so I'm worried about those black marks really coming forward in an unsightly way at the end. Any advice from here?
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# ? Jul 8, 2020 20:15 |
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You've turned poo poo into gold with character. That's what the dings and marks are. Just move on and finish it.
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# ? Jul 8, 2020 21:00 |
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Yeah I completely agree, those marks look great and are character and they tell a story about the history of that hunk of wood. I'm more annoyed at the dent marks from the strapping or whatever crushed that corner in one spot, I don't think that looks especially good but I've got no idea how to fix it so I'd probably just leave that be as well.
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# ? Jul 8, 2020 23:07 |
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Okay! A few more rounds of sanding, cleaning, sanding, touchups and staining and here are the results! And then mounted (ignore the wall-"art" that's just a placeholder for now until we can find something that fits):
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 03:21 |
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I actually preferred it with the black marks
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 05:06 |
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I actually preferred it with the black marks Well that's just how it looked wet, the extra round of sanding was just 180 grit and a touch-up. I don't think it removed any of the black marks, it just turns out the stain didn't highlight them very much. e: This morning in better light and after I polished it they came out a bit better I really don't know much about staining/polishing wood at all though so overall I just used what was on hand. I know it's RBS, but I didn't feel like I had the expertise to try something else and end up with something nice looking. El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 10, 2020 |
# ? Jul 9, 2020 05:59 |
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Sorta woodworking related. Renovated a drawknife, one of two from my grandmothers place. Started with electrolysis for rust removal. Removed most of the dirt from the handles, see the other for an example of what they both looked like. Stained the handles and blackened the ferrules using a blow torch and oil dip. Then I just needed to start using it. Pine sap gets everywhere! I feel like I need to bathe in isoproply alcohol.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 18:09 |
You guys got any idea on the age/origin/wood of this thing? Family heirloom bed that I am getting rid of because it's kinda impractical, not terribly comfortable and way too big for this house...
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 18:17 |
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Nettle Soup posted:You guys got any idea on the age/origin/wood of this thing? Family heirloom bed that I am getting rid of because it's kinda impractical, not terribly comfortable and way too big for this house... No offense, but you could probably do with a few more pictures of the hardware, screws, bolts, and any writing or labels, and close-ups of the grain.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 18:20 |
https://imgur.com/a/qS6uLl6 Sure, there's more here.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 18:23 |
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Nettle Soup posted:https://imgur.com/a/qS6uLl6 20th century, probably the 2nd half, but maybe from the 20s/30s. Almost certainly factory made. Looks like walnut veneer, maybe cherry, maybe mahogany, maybe just about anything stained brown.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 18:43 |
Ok, later than I thought then! I was thinking late Victorian. Thanks! Probably 30s, from what my mum told me about it, so that's what I'll list it as.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 18:56 |
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Nettle Soup posted:Ok, later than I thought then! I was thinking late Victorian. Thanks! Probably 30s, from what my mum told me about it, so that's what I'll list it as. Fake edit: a little google shows Vono was formed in 1896, but I doubt that bed is that old. They were a British company. I can’t quite tell if they made whole beds or just the metal fittings and mattress springs. If there’s family history with it, I think 1920’s/30s is very reasonable. E2: looking closer at the pictures and the fact that’s it’s British I am more inclined to lean towards it being mahogany than cherry or walnut.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 19:13 |
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El Mero Mero posted:Well that's just how it looked wet. Turns out the stain didn't highlight them very much. It looks good but those stainless brackets hurt my eyes. Probably just my take....
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 19:27 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Sorta woodworking related. Renovated a drawknife, one of two from my grandmothers place. Nice. Can you source disposable paper hospital coveralls? We called them bunny suits. I took a few home instead of trashing them for jobs like that.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 19:29 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:It looks good but those stainless brackets hurt my eyes. Probably just my take.... I agree. I think it would look better without. But it's miles better than what it was previously.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 19:48 |
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Ehhh, it could be older than I think. Might be Edwardian. The fact that the veneer on the headboard is in such good shape makes me think it’s probably laid on plywood which is a big part of what’s making me think it’s 20th. C. It’s really hard to tell without physically seeing it in person, and you’re pictures aren’t stellar. Yeah, I wasn't sure on if they just made the fittings or not either. Mahogany is what it was always told to me as. The plywood thing would make sense, but there's no veneer chipped off so I can't see what it's laid over. Wish I could keep it, but it has to go.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 20:05 |
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I'd like to set up a shop area in my basement, but what I am reading about dust collection is making me wonder if it's a bad idea. I am in the "I bought a power tool and would like to learn how to use it" category of hobbyist, so I don't know how much woodworking I will actually end up doing. I was going to take some classes but then coronavirus happened. A lot of what I see when googling dust collection is way over my head and out of my price range. But just running the shopvac in my poorly ventilated basement seems like it might be a bad plan even for occasional work. Would anyone have some advice or resources aimed at someone like me?
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 20:30 |
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A shop vac will take you pretty drat far I’m still running a shop vac on my big honkin sawstop and it’s less than ideal but it still works
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 20:38 |
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I used a shop vac in my unfinished basement with poor ventilation for a while until getting the harbor freight dust collector. Never had any problems.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 20:42 |
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Trillian posted:I'd like to set up a shop area in my basement, but what I am reading about dust collection is making me wonder if it's a bad idea. I am in the "I bought a power tool and would like to learn how to use it" category of hobbyist, so I don't know how much woodworking I will actually end up doing. I was going to take some classes but then coronavirus happened. A lot of what I see when googling dust collection is way over my head and out of my price range. But just running the shopvac in my poorly ventilated basement seems like it might be a bad plan even for occasional work. Would anyone have some advice or resources aimed at someone like me? I use a shopvac in my basement. Keep the shop away from your furnace, use a cyclone (the home depot Dustopper works fine and is cheap) and actually hook it up to every tool. This is annoying because literally every tool has slightly different fittings, but it's worth it. I do big sanding jobs outside if I can, but otherwise everything is fine.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 20:45 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Sorta woodworking related. Renovated a drawknife, one of two from my grandmothers place.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 21:07 |
So among the various furniture I just got are a bunch of chairs. They're pretty nice, except they have wicker seats that are almost universally destroyed at this point. It seems like it should be easy enough to remove the wicker and put in a proper wooden seat, but I've never done anything remotely like this. I'll get some photos later up in a bit, but I think the chairs are meant to be a set with the table I also got. Family legend says the table is solid oak of some sort, so the chairs might be as well? It certainly weighs enough that I'd believe it is solid oak.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 21:12 |
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more falafel please posted:hook it up to every tool. This is annoying because literally every tool has slightly different fittings, but it's worth it. This is where having a 3d printer is amazing, I have printed so many dust collector adapters. A shop vac works fine the only real trade off is capacity and that you have to drag it around with you to each tool you want to use and empty it more often. I use a shop vac on my CNC in the dining room FWIW.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 21:21 |
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Also amazon has every kind of adapter you can think of or need, but you do have to pay attention to interior vs. exterior diameters of stuff if you want them to actually stick to each other properly.wandler20 posted:I agree. I think it would look better without. But it's miles better than what it was previously. I'm in this camp too. Love the wood, hate the brackets. Nettle Soup posted:Yeah, I wasn't sure on if they just made the fittings or not either. Mahogany is what it was always told to me as. The plywood thing would make sense, but there's no veneer chipped off so I can't see what it's laid over. Haul it to the stockpile and sell it to the next caravan, just don't try to offer it to elves.
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# ? Jul 9, 2020 21:29 |
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more falafel please posted:I use a shopvac in my basement. Keep the shop away from your furnace, use a cyclone (the home depot Dustopper works fine and is cheap) and actually hook it up to every tool. This is annoying because literally every tool has slightly different fittings, but it's worth it. I do big sanding jobs outside if I can, but otherwise everything is fine. I appreciate all the replies. I'm glad that you guys think that's fine. I have one more probably dumb question, while I am at it: I can't avoid having the shop space near my boiler. The boiler air intake is outside, though, which I think is the primary concern. How well do I need to close it off from the shop space?
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 01:44 |
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Some recent marquetry work, still need to press it to a panel then make something with it. This is going to be a box exterior and lid interior.
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 02:59 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:It looks good but those stainless brackets hurt my eyes. Probably just my take.... No that's a good point. Here they are before: and now painted: El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Jul 10, 2020 |
# ? Jul 10, 2020 03:04 |
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Some recent marquetry work, still need to press it to a panel then make something with it. This is going to be a box exterior and lid interior. I do this a lot with tile and stone but I love to see it in wood
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 03:12 |
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Some recent marquetry work, still need to press it to a panel then make something with it. This is going to be a box exterior and lid interior. amazing work man Are you doing these with a laser cutting or something? By hand?
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 03:13 |
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Super Waffle posted:amazing work man Thanks, it's all cut by hand. If you click the question mark to see my post history i did a little tutorial a while back on how i do it. I find it very relaxing, almost meditative.
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 03:25 |
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks, it's all cut by hand. If you click the question mark to see my post history i did a little tutorial a while back on how i do it. I find it very relaxing, almost meditative. You do just amazing work man, and you didn't even make a dead butterfly!
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 03:29 |
This is astonishingly pretty. I'm very impressed. Also I think I understand the thread title now. Olothreutes posted:So among the various furniture I just got are a bunch of chairs. They're pretty nice, except they have wicker seats that are almost universally destroyed at this point. It seems like it should be easy enough to remove the wicker and put in a proper wooden seat, but I've never done anything remotely like this. I'll get some photos later up in a bit, but I think the chairs are meant to be a set with the table I also got. Family legend says the table is solid oak of some sort, so the chairs might be as well? It certainly weighs enough that I'd believe it is solid oak. Here's one of the chairs in question, the wicker in this one is probably the most in tact of them all. It looks like there's a seam in there that holds the wicker over a bit of the frame wood, it might be possible to remove the wicker and then set a new seat on that lip? I'm sure there are a bunch of other ways I'm not thinking of. Click for more. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jul 10, 2020 |
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 03:48 |
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El Mero Mero posted:No that's a good point. Here they are before: Much better, good choice.
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 03:59 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 23:49 |
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Olothreutes posted:This is astonishingly pretty. I'm very impressed. Those are indeed oak. What you are calling wicker is usually called caning and that may help your googling-those are caned chair seats. You can get the caning in sheets and replace it if you want. There is usually a spline that you pound into a groove that holds it together, or sometimes the caning goes in little holes all around. You can probably buy the splines too. You could add an upholstered slip seat or something on top of that, but it may wind up being higher than is comfortable. Maybe set a pillow on top of one and see if it feels right. I’m not sure a flat wooden seat would be all that comfortable, but a stick a board across the top and see how it sits.
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# ? Jul 10, 2020 04:08 |