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Nitrile gloves, Oxolane of your choice, a proper container for safety and then immerse your PLA print. It'll break down into component chemicals faster than the usual biodegrading method, and oxolanes are a good chemical for cleaning nozzles out if you're primarily printing PLA-only. If you want to get real crazy with it you can set up a chem-wash basin to cycle the oxolane/keep it agitated and then have some kind of filtration set up that diverts the PLA particulates into a waste bin of some kind (more efficient storage). Or just set up a furnace and incinerate it. If you do it at high enough temperatures the trace harmful compounds in the dyes and random impurities will break down into less harmful components. 
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May 21, 2021 01:41
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iirc the requirements for PLA to biodegrade are about 60 celsius and close to 100% humidity. I wonder if you could make a solar-heated box (reflectors or fresnel lenses or something) of some sort that could do it? Leave it in the back yard, keep it topped up with water, toss in your junk parts and they just dissolve over a few months.
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May 21, 2021 02:57
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Sagebrush posted:iirc the requirements for PLA to biodegrade are about 60 celsius and close to 100% humidity. I wonder if you could make a solar-heated box (reflectors or fresnel lenses or something) of some sort that could do it? Leave it in the back yard, keep it topped up with water, toss in your junk parts and they just dissolve over a few months. I think you also have to make sure you have the right mix of microorganisms.
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May 21, 2021 03:08
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I think all this points to the best thing we can do with lovely prints and scraps and save them in a bin and reprocess it into filament if possible. Unfortunately it seems like those machines are expensive but I haven't done much research into them.
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May 21, 2021 04:09
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Not to mention that recycled plastics don't have the same properties as their virgin counterparts - for random PLA prints, that might be less of a problem, but you do have to keep incorporating at least some amount of fresh stock.
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May 21, 2021 04:33
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Just toss it into the ocean like it's a car battery.
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May 21, 2021 11:11
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My decision and thoughts, for those that are keeping track -- bought an Ender 3 v2. Should be here tomorrow. Gonna set it up an look into using it to make a Voron, because I'm dumb and like well digging.
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May 21, 2021 12:26
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Just toss it into the ocean like it's a car battery. Thank you for recharging the electric eels! 
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May 21, 2021 12:36
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Doctor Zero posted:Thank you for recharging the electric eels! Ocean life isn't going to choke itself!
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May 21, 2021 12:38
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I love this loving printer so much. Over the last 2 days I finally had enough time to make some changes. I installed the better extruder kit. And I printed a new Satsana with PETG, the old one was PLA and white and had thin walls and didn't manage bridges very well. I got a dual fan Satsana model a few days ago and removed all the stupid and unnecessary things I didn't need with Blender. Like, what's up with that part? I got two fans, I don't need the bulky duct any more.  Way better!  Then I installed it and put some stupid and unnecessary things back on it to balance the universe.   Now it should be able to print bridges! Does it? Yes. YES. 
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May 21, 2021 13:40
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my friend, have you heard of crimps before. use them, wtf
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May 21, 2021 13:42
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insta posted:my friend, have you heard of crimps before. use them, wtf I used these on every cable. Otherwise I had to work with what I had at home. 
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May 21, 2021 14:00
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A good candidate for OSHA.txt at some point if there is literally any moisture in the air to corrode the connection. Wrap that poo poo up/take it apart long enough to put shrink tubing over it after putting it back together. Or put that electrical insulating gel (can't remember the name right now, but it's specifically for keeping moisture out of that kind of connector) into the openings on those things.
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May 21, 2021 14:10
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biracial bear for uncut posted:
Dielectric grease?
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May 21, 2021 14:47
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biracial bear for uncut posted:A good candidate for OSHA.txt at some point if there is literally any moisture in the air to corrode the connection.
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May 21, 2021 14:48
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After just now pulling my head out of some of the worst aircraft wiring I've ever laid eyes on, I'm having a real hard time getting excited about a few fan wires in Euro blocks.
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May 21, 2021 15:17
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What sorts of planes?
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May 21, 2021 15:53
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RabbitWizard posted:I love this loving printer so much. Over the last 2 days I finally had enough time to make some changes. I installed the better extruder kit. drat, that's some nice bridging! I should look into that Satsana, but I just installed quiet fans on my CR-6 yesterday and I'd have to really modify that design to make it work. Maybe on my E5 though .... 
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May 21, 2021 16:09
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First print on the WhamBam was just a resin validation test but I think it came out pretty good. Not sure what made those whispy at the ends, might hafta play with the exposure a bit but for the most part looks good. 
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May 21, 2021 16:41
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mattfl posted:First print on the WhamBam was just a resin validation test but I think it came out pretty good. Dominoes posted:What sorts of planes?
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May 21, 2021 16:50
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senrath posted:Dielectric grease? Yeah, that and some kind of proper strain relief for the wires because they're just going to repeatedly pull on the section of wire pinched by the screws (and we should all know how well that works long term). RabbitWizard posted:I really tried to understand this. I can't. Yes, connections can corrode. But this type of connection is used billions of times in electronic appliances. Why would I take special care about the wires at this place when they connect to the board in the same way? Do those connections in appliances typically deal with the repeated strain that having it on your 3d printer's axis of travel is going to subject it to? Granted, the most likely result is that the printer will just fail to print something when the connection shorts. But it's still bad practice. EDIT: Unless that zip tie is *a lot* tighter than it looks in the picture, the wires are still going to pivot/rub back and forth and eventually wear to the point of failure. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 17:37 on May 21, 2021 |
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May 21, 2021 17:35
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mattfl posted:First print on the WhamBam was just a resin validation test but I think it came out pretty good. Consider running some amerilabs towns as well. These tests aren't aparently exact measures of exposure. Town will take longer but is a solid test
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May 21, 2021 18:06
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Do those connections in appliances typically deal with the repeated strain that having it on your 3d printer's axis of travel is going to subject it to? Right, I didn't consider movement as the reason because there is none. That ziptie is tight (so far). Also the wires are splitting just after the ziptie, it's a way too big 4-core cable (I think 0.75mm² each) running back to the board. Also I'm prepared to rebuild 
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May 21, 2021 18:14
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oh my god biracial. it's a printer not a military aircraft. i only gave him poo poo because the terminal blocks are 75% the size of the whole printhead, instead of some small JST-XH or something. they're fans.
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May 21, 2021 18:14
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insta posted:oh my god biracial. it's a printer not a military aircraft. they're fans. Apparently he's not 
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May 21, 2021 18:39
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Holy poo poo, I guess Enders are a LOT better than I thought!   e: sourcing my quotes - https://www.myminifactory.com/blog/toyota-supra-a90-scale-model-1-10-60a1304a73dd2 Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 19:44 on May 21, 2021 |
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May 21, 2021 18:44
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Doctor Zero posted:Holy poo poo, I guess Enders are a LOT better than I thought! You wouldn't download a car.
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May 21, 2021 18:53
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Doctor Zero posted:Holy poo poo, I guess Enders are a LOT better than I thought! you're a dumbass for not watermarking that because it WILL get used on an Ender3 ad somewhere
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May 21, 2021 19:05
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what in hell is going on with that cooling fan
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May 21, 2021 19:25
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Random dynamic oscillating blower system
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May 21, 2021 19:28
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cakesmith handyman posted:Apparently he's not  RabbitWizard posted:Right, I didn't consider movement as the reason because there is none. That ziptie is tight (so far). Also the wires are splitting just after the ziptie, it's a way too big 4-core cable (I think 0.75mm² each) running back to the board. Also I'm prepared to rebuild I just have an irrational hatred of wire bird nests.
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May 21, 2021 20:15
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I picked up one of those Sainsmart enclosures from Woot a while back and finally got around to setting it up, and moved my setup out to the garage. O'm pretty drat happy with this thing, I think it'll work very well for my purposes.  My lighting solution was to get the cheapest USB-powered TV bias lighting strip I could find on Amazon and stick it along the frame inside the enclosure. Not a bad result for $10 if you don't mind an additional USB plug to deal with. With this enclosure, the whole inside is shiny enough that there aren't any shadows despite being only lit from the front. 
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May 21, 2021 20:42
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Just an FYI, the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k is an extra $80 off on Amazon right now, and the Mighty 4k is $100 off. You have to click a tiny box to select the coupon on the product page, apparently there are only 100 of each available also.
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May 21, 2021 21:31
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Grabbed a mighty 4k. They also give you a bottle of 4k resin if you look below the item listing details, but above the description. There's an option to "Add both to cart" and you get 4k gray resin. There's a blue and a green but they look kinda pastel?ish. Opted for the green. Slightly bigger print volume than the saturn I have, and a free 1k bottle of resin for 544 shipped, tax included. Not a bad deal at all. Toss in the payment plan option if you have an amazon visa and it's 30 bucks a month for 18 months minimum, or you can just pay it off sooner if you want. Hell of a deal.
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May 21, 2021 22:42
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For the last two weeks my Ender 3 Pro has been getting clogged every other print or so. I've tried two different hot-end fixes, replaced the bowden tube and coupler, and upgraded the fan - none of which have worked. I think what it must be is heat creeping up and making the filament soften/expand on it's way to the hot-end. Honestly, I'm at a crossroads of trying to continue troubleshooting this, or just throwing in the towel and buying a more reliable machine because I'm having to tinker with my Ender pretty frequently these days. I hear Prusas are nice. What say you, gurus of 3D printing?
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May 22, 2021 03:52
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Class Warcraft posted:For the last two weeks my Ender 3 Pro has been getting clogged every other print or so. I've tried two different hot-end fixes, replaced the bowden tube and coupler, and upgraded the fan - none of which have worked. I think what it must be is heat creeping up and making the filament soften/expand on it's way to the hot-end. My ender 3's been a workhorse, what were your hot end fixes. Cold pull is a good move, I upgraded to a Capricorn Bowden which might help. I did have some nasty clogs one time, ended up replacing the nozzle with a new 0.4 which did the trick, ended up scraping a ton of burnt shut out of the old one where the factory had aparently hosed up and left some nasty test filament in there Prusas good aparently too
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May 22, 2021 04:26
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w00tmonger posted:My ender 3's been a workhorse, what were your hot end fixes. Cold pull is a good move, I upgraded to a Capricorn Bowden which might help. So when I first got my Ender 3 it had a lot of similar issues, which I fixed by doing that dumb hot-end fix with the printed spacer and piece of tubing that lives in the heat sink. That worked for like 4 months with no problems. Eventually the spacer melted (another sign that heat is creeping up past the heat sink) so I just went back to the regular setup, but made sure my bowden tube was flush with the nozzle. That worked for a while, but now it's clogging again. I replaced the tubing a couple times (all capricorn), upgraded to stronger couplers so the tube can't pull away from the nozzle, replaced the nozzle probably a dozen times by now, upgraded the fan. Now I've tried the spacer hot-end fix again, but this time it isn't helping. Using the needle to unclog it from the nozzle doesn't work - I'm not able to push it far enough up in there to unclog it. Whenever I take the nozzle off and bowden tube out there is always a pretty solid mass of filament in there that is hard enough that I have to use a spare piece of bowden tube to push it out, even when it's at printing temperatures. I've also had to replace the extruder arm and bed, so I'm just generally getting tired of having to constantly sink money into replacement parts for this thing. Class Warcraft fucked around with this message at 05:55 on May 22, 2021 |
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May 22, 2021 05:49
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first casting die attempt clearly did not have the exposure dialed in, but i’m still gonna give it a spin tomorrow the coin is about 1.25” across, i was kinda pushing it with how deep i wanted the lettering to be embossed. i should still get an at least partial capturing of the entire design. also i hosed up by making the locator pins fit perfectly, which means they immediately don’t allow the thing to close properly once you go through post-cure shrinkage, so i had to rework them (poorly) with rifflers
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May 22, 2021 05:59
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Class Warcraft posted:So when I first got my Ender 3 it had a lot of similar issues, which I fixed by doing that dumb hot-end fix with the printed spacer and piece of tubing that lives in the heat sink. That worked for like 4 months with no problems. Eventually the spacer melted (another sign that heat is creeping up past the heat sink) so I just went back to the regular setup, but made sure my bowden tube was flush with the nozzle. That worked for a while, but now it's clogging again. Is your bowden tube too short or something? My Ender 3 pro has also been a workhorse, and has been running for a few years now and never clogged at all. If space keeps opening up between your bowden tube and your nozzle, something weird is going on there. Maybe the coupler isn't holding well enough? If the tube were too short maybe it could be getting pulled a bit as the print head travels to the edge of the bed? I don't really know I'm just brainstorming. What temps are you printing at? Is the cooling fan working properly? Is the heat sink clean? I've seen a layer of dust build up between a fan and heat sink on other electronics in the past that messes up the cooling. My printer is enclosed, so it stays pretty dust-free. Are you tightening the nozzle down with the machine cold or hot? armorer fucked around with this message at 11:02 on May 22, 2021 |
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May 22, 2021 11:00
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armorer posted:I don't really know I'm just brainstorming.
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May 22, 2021 11:25
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