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simplefish posted:Does anyone have a good suggestion of where to put stupid small questions (like this thread was for) when the forums get closed? Is there an AI discord and can I get PMd or emailed an invite? My username at Gmail.
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Jun 24, 2020 17:09
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MetaJew posted:Is there an AI discord and can I get PMd or emailed an invite?
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Jun 24, 2020 17:43
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Thank you.
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Jun 24, 2020 17:46
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Krakkles posted:No, but there's a slack, and the invite is in your PMs. I more show up to ask dumb questions than as part of the community, but could I get an invite too?
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Jun 24, 2020 18:10
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Charles posted:Yeah they can fail without the wiggle test showing any play too. Good luck! Yep, my MS3 had a wheel bearing fail this way. No play, lots of noise.
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Jun 24, 2020 18:17
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Krakkles posted:No, but there's a slack, and the invite is in your PMs. 
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Jun 24, 2020 18:22
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I have a 2019 Tahoe with the factory roof rails. Before I haul the cargo box out of the basement, does anyone know if something like this would fit on the factory rails: https://www.yakima.com/ca/skybox-16-carbonite
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Jun 24, 2020 18:31
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Krakkles posted:No, but there's a slack, and the invite is in your PMs. Can I get an invite as well? AI is my car home, I can't hang out on m.net and neons.org is dead.
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Jun 24, 2020 18:36
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I'm trying to find a way to notify myself of a garage door being left open. I have a shed on the far part of my property that has a garage door on it, I keep the mower and some other expensive stuff in it. My idiot brother in law who is staying with us keeps leaving it open and I'm really tired of having to walk out there every night to make sure it's closed. It's too far for wifi, but with an extender or two I could get it to reach out there. I'd like to set up something that either emails me or texts me at a certain time of day (or night) whether it's open or closed. I can't imagine there's something off the shelf that I can buy, so I don't mind piecing something together myself, I just don't know where to begin.
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Jun 24, 2020 18:47
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Hello AI! My 2013 Toyota Corolla's AC compressor needs to be replaced, according to the dealership service center I took it to for an airbag safety recall fix. (I told them to look at it, my AC stopped working the day before and I already had an appointment.) The estimate is over $1000, $600 for the part and $390 for labor. I live on Long Island, NY. My brother (not a car guy, neither am I) called a junkyard and said I could pick up a compressor for my car at $100. I haven't called them so I don't have any details as to whether it's aftermarket, used, functional, anything. Edit: called the guy, says it was OEM and the car it came from was "fine." What do I do? From what I've googled it sounds like this repair is pretty pricey but $1000 sounds completely unreasonable. At the same time, I don't think I should be risking $100 (plus labor) on something that could potentially be a paperweight. kalel fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Jun 24, 2020 18:54
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Junkyards deal almost exclusively in used parts that have little to no testing. They may offer warranties on them but a compressor like that isn't something you can really test on its own for much functionality.
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Jun 24, 2020 18:56
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So should I buy aftermarket on my own, if possible? Or is it reasonable to expect to get an OEM replacement at a non-dealer repair shop for cheaper than $1000 total?
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Jun 24, 2020 19:03
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm trying to find a way to notify myself of a garage door being left open. I have a shed on the far part of my property that has a garage door on it, I keep the mower and some other expensive stuff in it. My idiot brother in law who is staying with us keeps leaving it open and I'm really tired of having to walk out there every night to make sure it's closed. It's too far for wifi, but with an extender or two I could get it to reach out there. I'd like to set up something that either emails me or texts me at a certain time of day (or night) whether it's open or closed. I can't imagine there's something off the shelf that I can buy, so I don't mind piecing something together myself, I just don't know where to begin. If it's a newer Liftmaster / Chamberlain / Craftsmaster you might be able to set up the myQ system. I have that and it works okay. Otherwise maybe check in with the home automation thread? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3635963
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Jun 24, 2020 19:18
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Oopie
obi_ant fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Jul 19, 2020 |
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Jun 24, 2020 19:39
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SciFiDownBeat posted:So should I buy aftermarket on my own, if possible? Or is it reasonable to expect to get an OEM replacement at a non-dealer repair shop for cheaper than $1000 total? TBH I don't find that amount bad. I mean, I know it is "well this loving sucks" but a shop has to make money. So new compressor. Then add in the dryer. And a new orifice tube. Then evacuate the refrigerant. So then install "new" parts. Then pull a vacuum and fill with proper oil/refrigerant mix. Thats the new price to do it right. Maybe they are taking your for a ride. Or maybe it is something as simple as the compressor clutch. Did they tell you if it was low? Is it cycling on/off constantly?
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Jun 24, 2020 19:54
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:TBH I don't find that amount bad. I mean, I know it is "well this loving sucks" but a shop has to make money. So new compressor. Then add in the dryer. And a new orifice tube. Then evacuate the refrigerant. So then install "new" parts. Then pull a vacuum and fill with proper oil/refrigerant mix. Thats the new price to do it right. It was a dealership service center so I'm sure I'm being taken for a ride, but I also don't know whether to trust them over a local non-dealer repair shop. I'm not a car guy by any stretch but I certainly don't trust mechanics to give it to me straight, which is why I came here. I didn't talk to a mechanic directly, I was given an "agent" to handle me. I didn't ask any specific questions afterwards because I was in such shock I just wanted to leave. I'll transcribe exactly what it says on the receipt they gave me: quote:AC CONCERN [Customer states AC quit working yesterday] I guess this means it's getting power but the compressor is bricked? It could be something other than the compressor but I wouldn't know. The actual issue, in case I didn't already say, is that the air flow isn't cool in my car. It flows fine but the actual temperature doesn't reflect what I set it to.
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Jun 24, 2020 20:12
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Charles posted:If it's a newer Liftmaster / Chamberlain / Craftsmaster you might be able to set up the myQ system. I have that and it works okay. Otherwise maybe check in with the home automation thread? It's a manual door, so nothing newer or modern about it. I forgot that I had bought a new locking handle last year so I just installed that as a temporary 'leave my poo poo alone' solution. I'll check in with those guys if I need something more than the lock, thanks for the suggestion.
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Jun 24, 2020 20:37
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simplefish posted:Does anyone have a good suggestion of where to put stupid small questions (like this thread was for) when the forums get closed? The forums are more than one person. I’m staying put.
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Jun 24, 2020 20:39
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SciFiDownBeat posted:It was a dealership service center so I'm sure I'm being taken for a ride, but I also don't know whether to trust them over a local non-dealer repair shop. I'm not a car guy by any stretch but I certainly don't trust mechanics to give it to me straight, which is why I came here. nm
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Jun 24, 2020 20:52
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SciFiDownBeat posted:It was a dealership service center so I'm sure I'm being taken for a ride, but I also don't know whether to trust them over a local non-dealer repair shop. I'm not a car guy by any stretch but I certainly don't trust mechanics to give it to me straight, which is why I came here. https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/ac-compressor-clutch-wont-engage-toyota/
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Jun 24, 2020 21:00
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Colostomy Bag posted:https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/ac-compressor-clutch-wont-engage-toyota/ Thanks, this is a great help. Didn't even realize that was a code I could look up. Now at least I know what's actually wrong with it before they try to rip me off. Guess there's no way around getting a replacement compressor though. The other method that article mentioned about replacing the sensor itself sounds sketchy.
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Jun 24, 2020 21:57
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SciFiDownBeat posted:Thanks, this is a great help. Didn't even realize that was a code I could look up. Now at least I know what's actually wrong with it before they try to rip me off. Yeah my guess on the AC clutch not working. B codes are shall we say are rare. Don't try to crack lines, unless you like frostbite.
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Jun 24, 2020 22:31
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Re: Toyota Camry fob woes. Yep, I'm dumb and it just needed a new battery. Haven't started it up since putting the new battery in, but it locks and unlocks fine. Shipping a car: is $1k reasonable for shipping something from NW Oregon to Colorado? I think I put Denver in assuming that would be the cheapest option, unload at a hub or something and pick it up. I've got PTO coming up but thanks to an unexpected repair cost on the Camry (tie rod end is completely gone, wheel wobbling all over the place) I won't be able to afford this car until middle of next month, assuming it's still available then. And while I get 3 day weekends, trying to fly out and then drive solo from Oregon to CO in a total of 3-3.5 days seems like it might be cutting it close.
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Jun 24, 2020 22:50
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2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport (3.8l V6) - Rusty Shitbox Edition A couple weeks back, it went into lope/misfire mode, with loss of power unless given extra gas, dying unless the RPMs were kept about 1.5k+, and codes suggesting it was the Throttle Position Sensor. Replaced that, it became a bit more stable, and new code claiming the Manifold Air Pressure sensor was glitched, but by way of a shorted injector wire? (I'm an idiot and didn't write down everything.) Replacement MAP sensor from the junkyard didn't change anything, finally got my multimeter running and it looks like there's good voltage and ground to the sensor... And then this morning it's deader than these gay forums. No electric whatsoever, cleaned the battery terminals to be sure, and voltmeter says the battery is pumping 17.8 VDC. Any suggestions for a next step I can do myself, since I'm broke as gently caress? (Brand-new MAP sensor was already en route yesterday, or course.)
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Jun 25, 2020 03:35
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Would you be able to get alternator tested? That is a nasty voltage for the battery. Like almost dangerous nasty.
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Jun 25, 2020 13:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yep, my MS3 had a wheel bearing fail this way. No play, lots of noise. My Altima had one fail like that too. Went from nothing to sounding like a horrible metal on metal scraping, but no play. When I pulled the hub, there was a cracked spot in the race, with the remains of a ball jammed in it. How the fucker even spun at all is beyond me. Ygolonac posted:And then this morning it's deader than these gay forums. No electric whatsoever, cleaned the battery terminals to be sure, and voltmeter says the battery is pumping 17.8 VDC. 17.8 VDC.  That's gonna gently caress everything sideways. Was that engine on, or just straight off the battery? If that's just from the battery, something is very wrong with your multimeter - a car battery shouldn't be capable of over 12.8V unless you've JUST shut the car off.What's it show with a known good battery with the engine off? Then with the engine running? You should see ~12.7-12.8 engine off with a pretty new battery (12.2 is acceptable on an older battery, but it'd be on its last legs), 13.8-14.5 engine running.
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Jun 25, 2020 15:19
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Hey before SA dies I was hoping someone could answer this My friend has a 2008 Corolla with one of these  I ordered one of these AUX-in adapters off eBay because I was sick of the FM transmitter as Passenger DJ  https://www.ebay.com/itm/402142347486 I pulled the radio and plugged it into the 6+6, like so:    Nothing. Power cycled, tried to hit 'Disc' with an input connected to the 3.5mm (with audio playing), nothing. No light on the device, no reaction from the head unit, nada. As if I hadn't plugged in anything at all. I looked at all the videos on YouTube of folks plugging these things in and it's supposed to just work and mine just doesn't. Did I just get a broken adapter or is there some magic incantation I missed?
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Jun 25, 2020 16:17
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I'd say it's 50/50 dead module or the stereo isn't programmed to use that interface, but from a supply chain standpoint its cheaper to use the same physical equipment and leave it turned off in the stereo's firmware.
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Jun 25, 2020 17:35
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I more show up to ask dumb questions than as part of the community, but could I get an invite too? Same here please. I don't really like NASIOC and need somewhere to whine and opine on Subaru's.
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Jun 25, 2020 21:55
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My wife really screwed up my tailgate. She managed to back up into a loading dock with the tailgate down. The tailgate survived with only a barely bent corner. The real problem is that she bent in the sheet metal on the bed corner that the hinge pin mounts to. How do I pull out sheet metal where it's hard to reach?
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Jun 25, 2020 22:33
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net work error posted:Same here please. I don't really like NASIOC and need somewhere to whine and opine on Subaru's. 
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Jun 25, 2020 23:49
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SciFiDownBeat posted:Thanks, this is a great help. Didn't even realize that was a code I could look up. Now at least I know what's actually wrong with it before they try to rip me off. Here's an OEM Denso compressor on rockauto.com for a little under $500 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5702670&cc=1504998&jsn=409). You can certainly get cheaper ones as well (I'd opt for as close to OEM as I could afford), but the quoted price doesn't seem too crazy for a dealership. I'd check a different mechanic, but I'd expect no less than $750 for a job like that with a decent quality compressor. AC stuff is expensive, sadly.
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Jun 26, 2020 00:00
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Voltage was right off the battery terminals, nearly Multimeter is an ancient Radio Shack pocket LCD one, fresh batteries installed a few days ago. "No power" is *no power*. No lights, horn, electric locks, nothing. I'd've chased the other end of the battery cables except I had just checked the underhood fuse & relay box when it started raining pretty heavily, and that's not good for electrical troubleshooting. (I did try my battery jump pack the morning it died, and no go there either - didn't even power the locks or lights. Hopefully it's just a cable connection issue, because riding the bus *sucks*.) Pisses me off because it ran until I turned off the ignition, and still had power going to the radio, power windows and locks. Late Edit: It could be that I'm blind and/or an idiot. Seems that after disconnecting the cables entirely, and pulling the battery out to try and see where the cables go (more below), the Micronta 22-171a meter  showed .2v .  Now I'm wondering if I was so exhausted, pissed off, and rushing to beat the rain that I missed where the decimal was. Anyway, battery is inside socializing with all my other broken poo poo, as I have to walk over to the store and get a new AC plug for my even more ancient trickle charger. As for the battery cables.  Negative goes straight down and disappears into a bundle, which joins another for a 3+ inch diameter monster. I think I see it coming out, and going back up... under the exhaust manifold. Might have to pull the whole front clip off to get near it, unless I can block off the rear wheels with my vast supply of nothing, and jack this sumbitch up. One of the positive leads drops, then comes back up again and plugs into the bottom of the under-hood fuse and relay box, and I'd expect the other one goes to the starter solenoid, if it's anything like the '70s Chevy V8s I've worked on.More once I've juiced the battery some. Ygolonac fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Jun 26, 2020 |
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Jun 26, 2020 00:46
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Geoj posted:I'd say it's 50/50 dead module or the stereo isn't programmed to use that interface, but from a supply chain standpoint its cheaper to use the same physical equipment and leave it turned off in the stereo's firmware. Yeah but someone who knows Toyotas and their radios would know if it's the second one which is why I'm asking
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Jun 26, 2020 03:27
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This is kinda specific and car adjacent, but I'll try. My dad's (Illinois) license is expiring and thankfully he isn't planning on renewing it. He needs a state ID. For some reason he has a state ID from 2012 with no expiration date, but his current license is newer than that. Is the ID still valid or did the license overwrite it somehow? I'd rather he not walk into a DMV during the whole *waves hands*. (I think he'll need to get a Real ID, though...)
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Jun 26, 2020 14:25
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For something oddball as this, I'd take one for the old man and call/online chat with the DMV and waste an hour before going in. Why the hell does he have an earlier state ID?
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Jun 26, 2020 15:09
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I don't know. I think he got it after some major surgery where he was recovering and couldn't drive? No idea. The state has extended all expired cards to October 1st, so got some time to figure it out.
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Jun 26, 2020 15:10
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So, 6 AM I drag the battery out and slap the cables on, and it starts (still running like poo poo, but my new MAP sensor is right here at work and will be installed when I get home). Left the cable (barely) connected and we'll see if it's still got juice when I get home. Looks like I get to replace the connector on the positive cable, as it's not a big sold lump of lead, but rather a stamped piece of 6 PM: deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeead again. Will gently caress with replacing the cable end a little later, battery is charging again now, will limp it over to the parts store for testing tomorrow. (Replacing, if need be.) Ygolonac fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Jun 27, 2020 |
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Jun 26, 2020 18:00
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If it really got down to 1.78V instead of 17.8V (at 17.8V it'd be  ), that battery is beyond hosed. There's no coming back from that. Replace the battery, then check running voltage @ idle to make sure the alternator is in decent shape. You want to see 13.8 to 14.5 volts with a fully charged battery.Note that a battery fresh off the shelf may not be fully charged, you should drive it a bit (I'd suggest 15 minutes of actual driving during the day [so you don't need to run the headlights], not just idling) after replacing the battery.
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Jun 27, 2020 16:38
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I got a 2012 civic si sitting on buddy club coilovers, and I’ve noticed recently that the steering is extremely fine at speeds 65 and over. Is there a way to “tighten” the steering or whatever so that turning the wheel by a centimeter or two doesn’t change lanes?
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Jun 27, 2020 17:20
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