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Got this second log opened up this morning.  It was a bit of a trick to rig up the ladder for the first cut since the log had that big curve to it. In the end, I attached the starting end with a single bolt so the ladder could swing side to side, and put a long rail at the other end that it could ride on. It just sort of moved left or right as needed to let me saw track the log, worked great! By the way, Harry Potter on Ice posted:1. Set your log up downhill if you're pushing it only Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Aug 5, 2020 |
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Aug 5, 2020 18:35
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Super Waffle posted:All this lathe chat has me worked up and looking at lathes. I have a large severance package and an excessive amount of time coming up soon and I'm wondering if now is the time to take the plunge. Whats a good place to start? I'm thinking mini lathe, set of chisels, and a small bench grinder for sharpening. What sort of price range is "cheap but won't explode in your face/make you hate everything"? Depending on what you want to turn, you may or may not need a chuck. Chucks are fairly expensive and you can do a lot without one. If you want turn spindles (table legs, stair balusters, wands, etc)you don’t need one at all. The are handy for the stuff Jeeves mentioned, as well as little knobs and things for furniture. A face plate is usually less expensive than a chuck and will let you do most of the same stuff with a little creative engineering. The carbide tools are a neat idea and probably a good for a beginner. Scraping is much much easier and intuitive than using gouges and skews. Gouges etc. can be really difficult to use if you don’t know what you’re doing and they aren’t sharpened correctly. The wolverine jigs/Sharpening system from Oneway really works amazingly well and I would recommend it to anyone with a lathe. Grinds much better, more consistently, and more quickly than I ever could by hand. Probably easy enough to build your own knockoff of too-it’s nothing complex. JEEVES420 posted:That's what I was reading too. What is the drawback to dovetail versus parallelogram? I assume any replacement brand 8" dovetail blades will fit? Dovetail vs. parallelogram has to do with how the tables attach to the body and go up and down, not the knives. I don’t think one is better than the other, you just adjust them a little differently IIRC. Shims in the ways for dovetail and maybe some set screws for parallelogram? I’ve never had to adjust either of my jointers besides moving the tables up and down, so not super sure about that. I think parallelogram is a little easier and cheaper to manufacture and that’s why most more modern jointers are parallelogram.
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Aug 5, 2020 18:53
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I'm not sure about lathe chisels, but there's a surprising amount of overlap in sharpening chat with the GWS kitchen knives thread. They are very serious about sharp steel over there and may have some really good ideas about how to make it happen. Last I checked (years ago) the general advice was to get a knockoff edge pro from Amazon or whatever, it's basically a small fixed angle jig. I've used mine on chisels and it's a bit awkward but does produce sharp chisels.
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Aug 5, 2020 18:59
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Bad Munki posted:Got this second log opened up this morning. Dangggg that looks so good!! I'm glad it worked out for you, sometimes simple tricks are really helpful. It was passed on to me by my old logger bud, my first log was uphill  Today's experiment 
Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 5, 2020 |
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Aug 5, 2020 22:27
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Oh that looks fun, and good luck to whatever sharp thing you approach it with. 
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Aug 5, 2020 22:36
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I have gone and done a consumerism. SBUS in its new home, WW2 Stanley no3 just out of frame, crying
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Aug 5, 2020 23:19
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Today's experiment 
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Aug 6, 2020 00:13
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Super Waffle posted:All this lathe chat has me worked up and looking at lathes. I have a large severance package and an excessive amount of time coming up soon and I'm wondering if now is the time to take the plunge. Whats a good place to start? I'm thinking mini lathe, set of chisels, and a small bench grinder for sharpening. What sort of price range is "cheap but won't explode in your face/make you hate everything"? All the advice so far is good but I will throw a few things in. Generally speaking, bigger lathe is better lathe. The only thing you can do with a small lathe and not a big one is move it without hurting your back. This of course does not apply if you don't have room for a larger lathe, but don't think you need a small lathe to turn small things. Bigger lathes will generally have more power and less vibration. Since you have plenty of time on your hands, I would look for a used lathe. You're in the perfect position to snatch one up at a great deal, just make sure the head stock and tail stock are aligned (The centers should basically touch at the tip when the tailstock is brought all the way in) , the bed is not warped/twisted (check with a decent straight edge/yardstick), and the bearings are good (Not a lot of noise when running, can turn the head easily by hand). Otherwise the Rikon Jeeves recommended is a great small lathe. Anything can be turned without a chuck, but they make some things like bowls much easier and quicker. A safety drive is a good investment at ~$50 and doesn't lower the capability of the lathe in any way. For sharpening, I have a Rikon low speed grinder with the wolverine tool rests and love it, it cost me about $250 new with Aluminum Oxide wheels and I use it for lots of stuff, not just sharpening my lathe tools. When I turn, I do a final honing with a 600 grit diamond hand slip which I repeat a few times over the course of turning an object (takes about 1 minute or less). Some turners do not bother honing at all and simply run their tool off the grinder. Your lathe tools don't need to be super sharp and if they are you'll go through the edge in no time because of how much cutting a lathe does. Carbide are easier than sharpening and pleasant to use but more expensive over time. For Hollowing an undercut on a bowl interior, carbide is the only way I've found to do it comfortably. Skews are the hardest tool to use, but also possibly the most rewarding. Oval body skews are a pain to sharpen. Don't buy harbor freight chisels.
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Aug 6, 2020 00:14
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Due to the tropical storm that came through yesterday, my wife's parents lost a bunch of trees. Mostly pine and sugar maple but what I'm interested in is some magnolia. It was planted when my wife's maternal grandmother passed away, about 18 years ago. How workable is magnolia? I figured I might get some chunks and make some kind of memento boxes with. I'm not sure what kind of magnolia, we're in the mid-Atlantic so I doubt it would be southern.
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Aug 6, 2020 00:28
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GEMorris posted:I have gone and done a consumerism. SBUS in its new home, WW2 Stanley no3 just out of frame, crying Nice! How do you like that handsaw you have on the lid? Is it worth it?
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Aug 6, 2020 00:39
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Tbqh I haven't used it much.... So the point of this toolchest was for traveling to take classes, and to fit in the trunk of a miata while doing so. The classes didn't really happen thanks to missing registration windows and job hopping, and now obv all classes are canceled. But I liked the constraint so I've stuck with it for my handtools. When I'm in my shop I use a full sized 26" panel saw, my bandsaw, or a tracksaw. I really should pull the BTAC saw out more often if only to form an opinion on it.
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Aug 6, 2020 01:26
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calandryll posted:Due to the tropical storm that came through yesterday, my wife's parents lost a bunch of trees. Mostly pine and sugar maple but what I'm interested in is some magnolia. It was planted when my wife's maternal grandmother passed away, about 18 years ago. How workable is magnolia? I figured I might get some chunks and make some kind of memento boxes with. I'm not sure what kind of magnolia, we're in the mid-Atlantic so I doubt it would be southern. I've found it to work a lot like poplar. Soft enough and easy to work. Pretty light wood too.
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Aug 6, 2020 02:13
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Bad Munki posted:Oh that looks fun, and good luck to whatever sharp thing you approach it with. A big flathead worked well enough if you can finesse it. Green wood looks wild for the first 15 minutes after you get the bark off     Gonna be a while at least until I can say if today was a good idea or... not
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Aug 6, 2020 02:55
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calandryll posted:Due to the tropical storm that came through yesterday, my wife's parents lost a bunch of trees. Mostly pine and sugar maple but what I'm interested in is some magnolia. It was planted when my wife's maternal grandmother passed away, about 18 years ago. How workable is magnolia? I figured I might get some chunks and make some kind of memento boxes with. I'm not sure what kind of magnolia, we're in the mid-Atlantic so I doubt it would be southern. Looking at the hardness numbers for different magnolias/Tulip Poplar this probably explains why some boards of poplar are so radically different from others-some species are nearly as soft as white pine and some are harder than soft maple but they all get sold as 'poplar'. I have heard somewhere in my travels that southern magnolia wood was preferred for the manufacture of wooden toilet seats for some reason? Anyway that's all I know about magnolia! E: Harry Potter on Ice posted:A big flathead worked well enough if you can finesse it. Green wood looks wild for the first 15 minutes after you get the bark off Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Aug 6, 2020 |
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Aug 6, 2020 03:01
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The best kind, free! It also goes by Acer macrophylum or bigleaf maple
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Aug 6, 2020 03:37
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GEMorris posted:I have gone and done a consumerism. SBUS in its new home, WW2 Stanley no3 just out of frame, crying Very nice set of tools, and toolbox. I'm jealous. I have one Veritas dovetail saw. Are those all different TPI?
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Aug 6, 2020 14:11
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Its the fine dovetail saw, and the set of carcass saws, one rip one crosscut. My tool set does not include a tenon saw due to space constraints (this and using a no6 as a jointer were the two big compromises I made when assembling my set of tools in a chest this small.)
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Aug 6, 2020 15:33
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:The best kind, free! It also goes by Acer macrophylum or bigleaf maple We had some big decorative maples knocked down a few streets over a few weeks ago by high winds. I read they have a 30-35 year lifespan and then it's curtains.  That one you posted though, looks like you skinned some whale or other sea creature.
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Aug 6, 2020 16:12
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Mr. Mambold posted:That one you posted though, looks like you skinned some whale or other sea creature. That's because he debarked it while it was still green. It'll look a lot more normal once it dries a bit.
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Aug 6, 2020 16:28
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I know that, I can read. I was just remarking about the debarking.
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Aug 6, 2020 16:32
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I built these cornhole boards out of 12-mm Baltic Birch for a friend. They're essentially done, but I'm looking for recommendations for hardware to hold the two boards and the accessories together for storage and transport. I didn't want any moving parts, which is why I used the little interior boxes to prop up the ends of the two boards. Most people use partially-tightened nuts on bolts as hinges, but I didn't want metal bits sticking out the sides to scratch things up. The two boards nest inside of each other with cleats to hold the interior boxes in place when the boards are stored away. I have thought about using window sash locks to hold the board together, but again, I don't want all that metal sticking out the sides of these things. Also, I don't know how well the sash lock screws would hold up being drilled into the plywood edges of the outer cornhole board. Ideally, the only thing I want to have sticking out of the outside box is a carrying handle on one of its long sides. I don't think magnets are strong enough to hold the two boxes together. I probably should have thought about this before starting this project, but its basically done and I have to figure out this last little bit to get it finished.  The two boards nested together for storage or transport.  The inside of the inner cornhole board with cleats for the inner accessory boxes.  Another shot of the inner accessory boxes.  The outside of the outer cornhole board's frame is flush with the perimeter of the playing surface.  One of the inner boxes repurposed as a prop to hold up the back of the cornhole board.  The two boards configured for play.
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Aug 6, 2020 23:40
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Considered just putting a strap around it?
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Aug 7, 2020 02:10
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Inset magnets.
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Aug 7, 2020 02:19
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PBCrunch posted:Ideally, the only thing I want to have sticking out of the outside box is a carrying handle on one of its long sides. I don't think magnets are strong enough to hold the two boxes together. I used a cranked liftoff hinge : https://smile.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-1225-2-Take-Apart/dp/B00JJ190B6/ But you could also use this style: https://smile.amazon.com/TCH-Hardware-Steel-Small-Joint/dp/B079G3YMVR They work great. I ended up using a small latch on the handle side to keep them together, but you could in theory just use the handles to keep them together  Pittsburgh hinge side  Philly latch side If you use the second style, you could probably only have the barrel part of the hinge sticking out of the hinge side. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 12:54
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The city came by to clean up all of the fallen branches on my road after a big storm. Little did they know the big wood chipping truck was unnecessary, as I had already woken up at the crack of dawn to squirrel away the logs into my back yard   
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Aug 7, 2020 13:23
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Can we get a ruling on what constitutes a log versus a branch?
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Aug 7, 2020 16:36
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A branch can definitely be a log. However, there are certain girth requirements. Perhaps some relationship to the wood that can reasonably be extracted from the original piece. Like if you can get more than two 3/4" fully surfaced boards that are all at least 90% the width of the original piece, perhaps that is a log. Of course, that requires a definition of a board, one that does not include "sticks"
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Aug 7, 2020 16:54
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A log is any cylinder piece of wood thats too heavy to lift over my head. Most of those are just branches. But a couple I had to drag along the side walk 
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Aug 7, 2020 17:06
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Whoa whoa whoa, so if you take a log and cut it into shorter logs, like firewood length logs, they suddenly become not-logs? No sir, I won't accept this.
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Aug 7, 2020 17:10
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Bad Munki posted:Whoa whoa whoa, so if you take a log and cut it into shorter logs, like firewood length logs, they suddenly become not-logs? The log of Theseus
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Aug 7, 2020 17:15
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My favorite character in Twin Peaks was the Branch Lady
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Aug 7, 2020 17:24
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It’s not a log unless you can cut 4 slats that are flip capable from it.
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Aug 7, 2020 17:31
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Branches have leaves on them, logs do not? Or maybe that's trunk vs. branch and it's only a log once it's off the tree? This is very much like a question in my field, what's the difference between an x-ray and a gamma ray? The answer is where they originate (electron transition or nucleus transition, respectively) but as soon as they leave that origin they are completely indistinguishable from one another and are just high energy photons. I think you can definitely just call it whatever you want. Except a stump.
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Aug 7, 2020 17:43
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If you can safely split it, it's a log. If it's too narrow to stand up on its own or would tip over with a wedge in it (or you're as likely to miss as hit it) it's a branch. At a reasonable fire pit/stove length, obviously.
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Aug 7, 2020 17:46
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The US Forest Service says a sawlog is at least 8' long, solid all the way through and without major defect, and has a diameter of at least 6" inside the bark for softwoods and 8" for hardwoods, for what that's worth. In practice that's probably not too far off Bad Munki's proposition that it yield 2 1"x3" boards, especially if we don't count the center cut that has the pith running through it. A board has to be at least 3" wide x 4' long to make any sort of NHLA grade, so I think that is a reasonable minimum? The Slatflipper's Log Grading Rules: -4' long -must contain a -too heavy to lift overhead, but you are allowed to drag it However, if we do the math about squares fitting inside circles, we find that a 3" square only requires a 4.5" diameter log and you can lift a 4.5"d x 4'L log overhead so now its not a log anym  I'm sticking with 6" minimum diameter x 4' long. E: Jhet posted:It’s not a log unless you can cut 4 slats that are flip capable from it. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 17:47
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The junk collector posted:Skews are the hardest tool to use, but also possibly the most rewarding. Oval body skews are a pain to sharpen. Don't buy harbor freight chisels. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOuznRWUGos&t=329s
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Aug 7, 2020 18:02
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I am by no means a master turner but my skews are oval. I like being able to "roll" the tool, hard to explain I just feel like I have more finesse than a flat bottom. I can angle the tip to scrape or rest flat to sheer. My support hand rests against the tool rest cradling the shaft with my index finger to keep it from catching/moving.
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Aug 7, 2020 18:24
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If we bump it up to 4 standard flip-capable 1"x4" slats (3" wide slats are too narrow to properly flip-not enough leverage) we arrive at a 6" log, so this must be the solution! I accept. 
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Aug 7, 2020 18:28
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What is a flip capable board? Like you can toss it and get a full rotation, or if you flip it over on your deck it's probably still structurally sound?
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Aug 7, 2020 18:33
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Olothreutes posted:What is a flip capable board? Like you can toss it and get a full rotation, or if you flip it over on your deck it's probably still structurally sound? It's a board you can get at least four of out of a log, obviously.
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Aug 7, 2020 18:35
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