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I am getting better at making magic wands. Adding a wrist strap prevents enemy spellcasters from disarming you! Though I am now thinking that it would by much simpler to make the handle and the shaft out of separate pieces and wood glue them together afterwards. Its nice to turn it from a single piece of wood, but its very challenging to get a good sized handle and a fine shaft out of the same piece. Also my lathe isn't super long, and two pieces would let me made much longer wands:
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Aug 21, 2020 23:44
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 10:00 |
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That will be absurdly expensive, if you can find an outfit willing to do it. Since dimension is a component of the calculation of shipping cost, I would be unsurprised to learn that your single 3' plank costs $100 to ship.
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Aug 22, 2020 00:28
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Hey gang so I got some spray Helmsman Spar Urethane for my Baltic plywood sheet. I put 3 coats on. 90 min apart. In 80 degree weather. Not very humid. Now... I’m not looking for it to be fancy, quite the contrary. But it has a sort of rough chalky feel to the finish. Do I need to do something else? More layers? Buff it lightly with ultra fine?
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Aug 22, 2020 00:51
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Scuff sand with 320 and recoat. Rub out the next coat with 0000 steel wool. Alternatively rub out the current coat with steel wool, and if that doesn’t feel better, scuff sand with 320/recoat/rub out. Scuffing/denibbing between coats and rubbing out are the secrets to a good finish that the woodworking magazines never tell you about because they don’t sell the hot new super easy finish. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Aug 22, 2020 |
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Aug 22, 2020 01:01
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Word I’ll give that a try. Thanks bud! I figured, I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing something terribly wrong, because it felt like, so intensely and uniformly...”rough”.
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Aug 22, 2020 01:13
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Ugh, spray painted 2 small pieces of an overall larger project to put sides on a new utility trailer only to realize the next morning that crap, I really should add another panel or 3 of plywood to form a sort of gusset plate on those pieces. Queue up 2 hours, a dozen ruined 60 grit pieces of sandpaper(newish paint sticks to and ruins it quickly), and 5 charges of a battery for my ROS later to clear up the paint so I can glue the panels on. What a waste.
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Aug 22, 2020 01:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Scuff sand with 320 and recoat. Rub out the next coat with 0000 steel wool. Alternatively rub out the current coat with steel wool, and if that doesn’t feel better, scuff sand with 320/recoat/rub out. Does the rubbing out come before or after the slat flipping?
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Aug 22, 2020 01:16
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What finish do you guys put on your slats?
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Aug 22, 2020 01:32
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Needed a mallet for something else, so I made a mallet  
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Aug 22, 2020 01:50
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dupersaurus posted:Does the rubbing out come before or after the slat flipping? Meow Meow Meow posted:What finish do you guys put on your slats?  In hindsight, maybe woodworking magazines don't have articles on rubbing out because they don't want to print the phrase 'rubbing out.' Seriously though, rub your finish out! I just did it today and its no fun but gosh it feels nice when you're done!
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Aug 22, 2020 02:24
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...rd+maple+blanks
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Aug 22, 2020 03:02
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Leperflesh posted:That will be absurdly expensive, if you can find an outfit willing to do it. Since dimension is a component of the calculation of shipping cost, I would be unsurprised to learn that your single 3' plank costs $100 to ship. There's several suppliers of luthier materials that do it. There's one that sent green them that I bought in 2016 from the eastern US, but that mill crashed last year. It's expensive if you buy only a small number, but the fee doesn't scale up that much when you take more. It's around 100 for shipping, but that's acceptable. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Good luck! I doubt you will find that, but I hope you do. Something that comes to mind is that air dried wood isn't heat treated (normally part of kiln drying) which kills all the bugs etc. Not being heat treated might cause problems for import since it might still have bugs in it? Thanks. Campestre in my region grows in a similar gnarly fashion as pseudoplatanus in the eastern US. It's completely unusuable for making hornbows and sawmills don't carry it. 300km to the east, it's fine, but I don't speak slovak and these mills are as online as the amish ones. Platanoides is widespread in parks, but the city doesn't take them down unless they're rotten. Pseuoplatanus is the most common one here, it's not a problem to get thick boards, but it's >0.5 usually - which is ok, but I want that little extra. There are other diffuse porous woods that look good on paper, but develop problems over time (like cherry and beech). It's not something that would want to in a +120 workhour bow. e: Here's a buildalong of a 13th century mongol bow that I started 2 years ago, but my phone broke with the shaping and sinewing pics missing. I strung the bow the first time a month ago. Power Khan fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Aug 22, 2020 |
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Aug 22, 2020 11:35
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Power Khan posted:There's several suppliers of luthier materials that do it. There's one that sent green them that I bought in 2016 from the eastern US, but that mill crashed last year. It's expensive if you buy only a small number, but the fee doesn't scale up that much when you take more. It's around 100 for shipping, but that's acceptable. That build along is really cool thanks for sharing
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Aug 22, 2020 16:17
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Bow guy try getting in contact with crimson guitars they are in the UK and have a large stash of various hardwoods based on what they show in you tube videos. The owner Ben Crowe is also a wood and tool nerd and if you explain what you are looking for he'd probably go out of his way to help you out.
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Aug 22, 2020 16:23
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:That build along is really cool thanks for sharing
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Aug 22, 2020 17:15
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Made a quick little router base plate out of polycarb, and used my shop built mortiser to make the two slots.  Every time I use that goddamn thing I love it a little more. 1/4" router bit, and then made an extra 10 thou climb cut on the top and bottom of the slots to make just a little bit of extra clearance to let the fence slide nicely.  It's so satisfying.
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Aug 22, 2020 18:15
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I have always wanted a drill press, and now I have one! Very excited to drill various pieces of wood.
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Aug 22, 2020 20:04
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OgreNoah posted:I have always wanted a drill press, and now I have one! Nice, looks like a solid press. Buy a magnetic disk or nut bowl to stick to the Press. Keep your chuck in it. Seeing it sitting there on the bench all I could think is "Last known photograph" 
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Aug 22, 2020 20:20
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OgreNoah posted:I have always wanted a drill press, and now I have one!  Hell yeah! I just got a drill press last week and it has been something I've wanted for a while. Nothing beats that new (to me) drill press feeling.
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Aug 22, 2020 20:22
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buy a drill press vice, trust me.
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Aug 22, 2020 20:33
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Spookydonut posted:buy a drill press vice, trust me. Get a cross sliding drill press vice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHtfcjwHERA
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Aug 22, 2020 20:43
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JEEVES420 posted:Nice, looks like a solid press. Buy a magnetic disk or nut bowl to stick to the Press. Keep your chuck in it. Seeing it sitting there on the bench all I could think is "Last known photograph" Sticking a magnet on the top of your drill press is a good idea. Listen to this person.
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Aug 22, 2020 21:31
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OgreNoah posted:I have always wanted a drill press, and now I have one! Sup Taiwan Drill Press buddy, what brand name does yours carry?
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Aug 22, 2020 21:59
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JEEVES420 posted:Nice, looks like a solid press. Buy a magnetic disk or nut bowl to stick to the Press. Keep your chuck in it. Seeing it sitting there on the bench all I could think is "Last known photograph" Hahaha, great idea, I almost left it in the bed of my uncle's truck. GEMorris posted:Sup Taiwan Drill Press buddy, what brand name does yours carry? Duracraft
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Aug 22, 2020 22:01
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OgreNoah posted:
Ahh I see they tried to evoke an "American" identity with yours. My Avanti looks identical but obvs they were going for a Euro vibe there.
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Aug 22, 2020 22:07
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JEEVES420 posted:Nice, looks like a solid press. Buy a magnetic disk or nut bowl to stick to the Press. Keep your chuck in it. Seeing it sitting there on the bench all I could think is "Last known photograph" That's a great idea, I must cut mine off the chain the PO welded it to. Asking for trouble but I've been vigilant so far.
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Aug 22, 2020 22:38
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Anyone able to recommend a pure tung oil product? I bought some from home depot and it ruined the cutting board I was working on  . Turns out the home depot tung oil is maybe 1% tung oil and 99% garbage that will ruin the 5+ hours you put into your project.
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Aug 22, 2020 23:11
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Azuth0667 posted:Anyone able to recommend a pure tung oil product? I bought some from home depot and it ruined the cutting board I was working on My mind is elsewhere, but isn't BLO what you're looking for for a cutting board? And yeah, tung oil is a generic name anymore, I don't even know if the pure version is available or what you'd need in this case.
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Aug 23, 2020 02:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:My mind is elsewhere, but isn't BLO what you're looking for for a cutting board? And yeah, tung oil is a generic name anymore, I don't even know if the pure version is available or what you'd need in this case. Mineral oil is what you want for cutting boards.
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Aug 23, 2020 02:09
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I have USP grade mineral oil but, it doesn't seem to penetrate the wood at all.
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Aug 23, 2020 02:13
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For tung oil I use this https://www.amazon.com/HOPES-100-Tung-Oil-16/dp/B002V4PF3K The label says it's 100% pure tung oil. Maybe it's a lie but it seems like tung oil to me? "FDA Approved for Food Contact Surfaces - Since tung oil is considered non-toxic when dry, it is great for cutting boards, butcher blocks, countertops, wooden bowls, wooden utensils, and more" so this should be fine.
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Aug 23, 2020 02:52
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Azuth0667 posted:I have USP grade mineral oil but, it doesn't seem to penetrate the wood at all. How are you applying it?
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Aug 23, 2020 04:07
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JEEVES420 posted:How are you applying it? I put some on a lint free kitchen towel and rub it into the surface then leave it to dry for 24 hours. I've put 7+ coats on and it doesn't seem to penetrate at all.
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Aug 23, 2020 04:21
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Azuth0667 posted:I put some on a lint free kitchen towel and rub it into the surface then leave it to dry for 24 hours. I've put 7+ coats on and it doesn't seem to penetrate at all. either give it a bath, as in fill up a plastic tub with mineral oil and submerge it for 24 hours. Or pour on a whole lot all over and wrap it in Saran wrap for 12 hours then repeat 3-4 times. Final step is to use mix of mineral oil and bees wax to rub on.
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Aug 23, 2020 04:35
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Would it help to thin the mineral oil with acetone or mineral spirits?
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Aug 23, 2020 04:57
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Sealing the board with tung oil would stop mineral oil from soaking into it. Maybe sand the top of it so the mineral oil can get through and then apply it? You can seal a cutting board, but it's going to chip off as you use it and require occasional refreshes anyway. Mineral oil just sits in the wood and prevents water from getting in, but also requires topping up occasionally.
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Aug 23, 2020 05:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Would it help to thin the mineral oil with acetone or mineral spirits? That would make it not food safe I would think?
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Aug 23, 2020 05:19
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Thinning with a solvent won't hurt food safety as it'll just evaporate. There are possibly two things happening. One is that you put on some tung oil finish and the varnish in that stuff penetrated the board and it's not going to soak up the mineral oil. Assuming we're talking about the same board. In that case I'd.. personally just use the board. The other is that if you're going to use mineral oil for finish on a cutting board, you've got to absolutely flood that stuff on there like crazy and come back later and do it again. Wiping it on isn't enough, it's got to be sloppy gross.
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Aug 23, 2020 05:27
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Is the same true for knife handles? I have some kitchen knives with wood handles I’d like to spruce up, wondering if a mineral oil bath would help. I periodically wipe some on but hadn’t considered a full on bath, didn’t know about that.
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Aug 23, 2020 05:52
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The wax/mineral oil mix helps seals the board, at least for longer than oil alone. About once a month just reapply the mix. It can work on knife handles, but I'd probably apply it more often with how much it gets handled.
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Aug 23, 2020 06:10
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