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I've just discovered how beardy FoW players can be at times. Tonight's game ground to a halt because of the new "Jumbos Lead the Way". Basically, there's two jumbos in command distance of each other, the attacker has front on one and side on the other, and elects to shoot at the one at its side (one was the 2iC). American player invokes rule, wants to force the shot onto the Jumbo with the front facing the attacker. Que 30 minutes of back and forth whining. Then I found this thread.  For those who can't access it, basically the idea is, since using the "Jumbos Lead the Way", you treat the Jumbo as having the lowest armor, and hit allocation rules state lowest AT to lowest armor; what you should do is shoot your tank's MGs at the platoon, forcing an MG hit on the Jumbo and the cannon shots on the other thanks, thus rendering the Jumbo useless.
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May 13, 2012 04:46
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| # ? May 24, 2024 12:34 |
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Not entirely true. Jumbos lead the way is a "may allocate" so its entirely optional. So in that example you would not use it and take the MG hit on the non Jumbo leaving the cannon hit to go on the Jumbo as intended. You would only get a benefit if some targets were within 16" and other outside of 16". However there are other more easier ways to get around the Jumbo rule like you can only hit targets in your field of fire. So moving a tank to block off the jumbo while you shoot at the non Jumbos is easier. Both are abusive. Robert T is known in the wargaming community in NZ. He isn't the most pleasant person to play against and isn't typical of people in the hobby. LintMan fucked around with this message at 05:33 on May 13, 2012 |
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May 13, 2012 05:12
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Oh, I know it's optional, it's just that whole thread is really something else and his arguments are really stretching it.
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May 13, 2012 13:25
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There was apparently a controversy about measuring ranges a few months ago because the rules stated that you can measure ranges from "Anywhere on the model/stand" so you could selectively measure from back side of the model or stand instead of the closest part for your advantage. Like having tanks shoot at assaulting platoons in defensive fire but then (because some part of it was beyond 8 inches of the assault) not have it drawn into the actual combat. It was stupid and beardy but I believe there has already been an official statement from Battlefront that it means "the closest part." My group is full of competitive tournament types but this sort of poo poo wouldn't stand, and anybody trying this (or the jumbo thing) in one of our sessions or events would get the boot.
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May 13, 2012 15:42
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Sounds like Battlefront really are the GW of Historicals, fans and all! 
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May 13, 2012 16:03
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Arquinsiel posted:Sounds like Battlefront really are the GW of Historicals, fans and all! No, because Battlefront actually answered the question.
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May 13, 2012 17:04
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GW will answer the question too. Just not well. Wait... did the US never have "roolz boyz" on the mail order line?
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May 13, 2012 17:18
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Arquinsiel posted:GW will answer the question too. Just not well. Sure, and they always gave different answers depending on who answered the line.
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May 13, 2012 17:19
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See? Just not well.
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May 13, 2012 17:23
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Well looks like my other gaming group want to do AWI for Maurice. Im going to be looking to you Colonial Air Force for advice! Im going to buy American forces (although I will get Brits-Hessians later for solo play options) from Pendraken. Got some research to do I reckon (I love that bit of historical wargaming!)
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May 13, 2012 18:42
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Bug your fellow Brits and insist on calling it RevWar rather than AWI.
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May 13, 2012 20:13
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Serotonin posted:Well looks like my other gaming group want to do AWI for Maurice. Im going to be looking to you Colonial Air Force for advice! Let me know what you need. Always happy to spout on about the AWI. Scratch Monkey posted:Bug your fellow Brits and insist on calling it RevWar rather than AWI.  NO!
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May 13, 2012 22:42
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It's Mother's Day here in the US! My mom loves photography, and I finally realized that both our nerd hobbies are ridiculously synergistic:   Happy Mother's Day!
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May 14, 2012 00:31
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Whoever (Serotonin, probably) reccomended Wargames Emporium as a place to buy stuff - thanks! I placed an order online at 8 on Friday evening... and a package from them was waiting on the doormat when I came home from work today. Now that's good service, as opposed to other companies who've left me hanging for weeks without saying whether or not items are in stock, discontinued or whatever...
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May 14, 2012 17:50
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Oh yes, we roped another sucker at the club into getting some 6mm Preussians. I'm hoping for some Lasalle action within a month or so.
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May 14, 2012 18:03
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For Napoleonics, how do you deal with no french player? Just do theoretical battles? I'm not a huge history-sperglord, but wondering if you bump into situations where the only two armies you have were allies. Or does someone generally have French hanging around? AKA, should I buy french forces if my two friends want to do brits and prussians, or just go with my first choice, Austrians.
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May 14, 2012 19:47
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Mr.Booger posted:For Napoleonics, how do you deal with no french player? Just do theoretical battles? I'm not a huge history-sperglord, but wondering if you bump into situations where the only two armies you have were allies. Or does someone generally have French hanging around? You can always play "what if" scenarios. No-one will hunt you down for not only playing actual battle re-enactments if that is not what you want to do. And after all, both sides worked hard on trying to pry off allies from each other. In an alternative universe, Austria might have been beaten so much by France during one of the coalitions that they had to yield and become an ally by force. Or Prussia or Britain might even be beaten enough to have to cede Austria as an ally during a peace negotiation. Everything is possible in the chaotic world of 19th century diplomacy.
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May 14, 2012 19:58
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French forces are the best also why would you want to paint all those Austrians. White is a pain in the arse to do.
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May 14, 2012 19:59
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Store has Warlord Game's 28mm ww2 Bolt Action line for 20% off while it's here. Is there a compelling ruleset for 28mm WW2 skirmish games? I'd love to grab a box of Germans and a box of Americans for some casual dice rolling, but it hinges on their being a good ruleset that isn't spergy as gently caress. From the lack of discussion of that scale here, I'm guessing there isn't a cut and dry answer.
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May 14, 2012 21:06
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Bolt Action have their own ruleset out in July/August that I watched being demoed at Salute last month. It looked pretty good. A popular ruleset that I own is Rules of Engagement. Its pretty good I guess, but too like WH40K for my liking (authors are ex GW and admit to it being very 40k influenced). Neither games are spergy as gently caress in any way. http://www.greatescapegames.co.uk/rules-of-engagement Personally I would hold out for Bolt Action, as Im hoping to switch my gaming group over to it from Rules of Engagement.
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May 14, 2012 21:30
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I painted up some of Wargames Factory spear-armed ashigaru for the oath thread. They were actually nicer than I expected, given some of their previous kits. Not as nice as most metal miniatures, but really cheap (25 for $20) and much easier to transport. Metal back banners and pikes are just a pain in the rear end. All in all a good option for a large 28mm samurai army geared toward the latter half of the 16th century.  I painted them up as troops of Kobayakawa, a.k.a. the rear end in a top hat who switched sides during the battle of Sekigahara and pretty much secured the victory for Tokugawa.    Each sprue comes with options for command, so you can potentially make a unit with five flags, fifteen musicians, five swordwielding dudes and only five spearmen. It's a bit messed up that you have less options when it comes to the legs, so your unit is bound to have five dudes sitting down, five dudes charging forward, and fifteen dudes just standing there. The best solution is to just get more boxes (these are compatible with the arquebus/archer box) to form more uniform units.  Size comparison with The Assault Group and Perry Miniatures.
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May 17, 2012 18:52
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lilljonas posted:I painted up some of Wargames Factory spear-armed ashigaru for the oath thread. They were actually nicer than I expected, given some of their previous kits. Not as nice as most metal miniatures, but really cheap (25 for $20) and much easier to transport. Metal back banners and pikes are just a pain in the rear end. All in all a good option for a large 28mm samurai army geared toward the latter half of the 16th century. These are really nice. The details and proportions seem to be superior to the other two brands. The paint is done very nicely also. Do you collect 6mm, 15mm, 20mm and 32mm Feudal Japanese?
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May 17, 2012 22:25
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Does anyone make good 28mm native Americans? I'd like to use them for SAGA, and I can clip any rifles from French & Indian wars, but I haven't seen anything in plastics. Aztecs would do as a base to convert from, but I haven't seen any of those either.
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May 18, 2012 15:49
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Now that I own hard copies of all four [url]http://www.warhammer-historical.com/acatalog/Legends_of_the_Old_West.html]Legends of the Old West[/url] books, and a considerable collection of western dudes and ladies from Black Scorpion, I decided it was time to build up some wild west terrain. I opted to go with GameCraft Miniatures. They're cheap but look fantastic, and they're in the US, unlike the other two laser-cut western terrain manufacturers (who are in the UK). So without further ado:  This is what came in the package (candy included).  The whole town built in about 6 hours. I haven't done the fences yet because I haven't decided exactly how I want them laid out.  The main attraction of the town.  The most important buildings in town.  The Sheriff also runs the stage coach. An awesome Russian man runs the Western Union in the back.  For all your general needs.  The Sheriff, ready to draw down.  Protecting the important assets.  Justice! I'm going to make a little noose for this later. I got all of this for just about $100 plus shipping. It took about a week before they shipped (I assume they cut to order), but it arrived pretty quickly considering I'm in New Hampshire, and they're in California. It's all really great quality, although two pieces were broken when I received it (the overhang for the gallows was broken in two places), but glue fixed it pretty seamlessly. I am definitely going to get some more from them, as I'm a big fan of lots of terrain in a skirmish. I think I'll probably get some middle-eastern terrain too for FoF/AA. 3 Action Economist fucked around with this message at 23:58 on May 19, 2012 |
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May 19, 2012 23:52
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Hellbeard posted:These are really nice. The details and proportions seem to be superior to the other two brands. The paint is done very nicely also. Do you collect 6mm, 15mm, 20mm and 32mm Feudal Japanese? I would not go so far as to say that all details are superior, but some are. Some parts like the straps on the armour, the faces and hands of the plastics are not as good as other, metal, brands. Other things like the scabbards are just simply way better in plastic, because you can make them much thinner. General proportions are also more realistic with the plastics, while the multi-part nature of them makes for some wooden poses. But the inherent advantages of plastics make them an interesting option for people collecting entire armies. I'm not deranged enough (yet) to collect samurai in all those scales. I started with 28mm, but found them bothersome to carry back and forth to the club. Back banners, spears and all the other bits kept falling off. I also wanted to try to play with entire armies, so I started collecting 6mm. I also painted the occational 54mm miniature, but not for gaming. However, now that I started making 15mm buildings for casting I guess I'll have to invest in at least a 15mm DBA army. I'm also eyeing the new Command & Colours ruleset for samurai battles, which just happens to come with roughly 20mm plastic miniatures from Zvezda. So if I don't watch myself I might end up with all those scales. It's a hard knock life. E: those laser-cut Western houses are cool as gently caress! lilljonas fucked around with this message at 21:13 on May 20, 2012 |
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May 20, 2012 20:46
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Minor update re: 28mm plastic Native Americans- they don't exist. Wargames Factory makes multi-part Zulus and ancient Germans that would work well for bodies, but I can't find heads or weapons to match. Ancient Chinese heads would be great, but even bald heads would be a good starting point.
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May 20, 2012 21:09
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Devlan Mud posted:Store has Warlord Game's 28mm ww2 Bolt Action line for 20% off while it's here. Is there a compelling ruleset for 28mm WW2 skirmish games? I'd love to grab a box of Germans and a box of Americans for some casual dice rolling, but it hinges on their being a good ruleset that isn't spergy as gently caress. From the lack of discussion of that scale here, I'm guessing there isn't a cut and dry answer. NUTS! is a great choice. It assumes about a squad to a platoon a side for a game, though. You can try the basic mechanics in Chain Reaction - NUTS! adds campaigns, more missions and more details aimed at the period. Also, vehicles. Once you get your head around the system it plays quickly, and it's great for multiplayer co-op games against scenario-generated opponents if you want something other than head-to-head. Most people use 20mm or 15mm, I think, but it works fine at 28mm without changing the distances. If you want to use a big table (it assumes 3' square, but doesn't worry too much) you could double everything, but it's not really necessary. There's also USE ME, from 15mm.co.uk. As their name implies they are meant for 15mm figures, but eh, they'll work fine. Quick, simple, and I'm writing this without ever having read the rulebook, but I've used a couple of other books in the line (SF & Post-Apocalypse) and the basics don't change. The book is available as a tiny (but very legible) A6 booklet or a PDF. Both of those sets are sperg-free. They might look a bit too simplified at first, even, but they play drat well. A slightly more fiddly game you might like is Flying Lead from Ganesha Games, a shootier version of their really popular Song of Blades & Heroes fantasy skirmish set.
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May 20, 2012 21:53
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New Austrians from Baccus in 6mm for those of you who are in to that sort of thing.
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May 22, 2012 17:24
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they look great, but we decided on 15mm, still cheaper than 28mil and we can make a giant table and have a ton of dudes shooting ineffectively at each other. Got an small Austrian army on the way from WarWeb.com (battle honours figs)
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May 22, 2012 20:01
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Gamecraft minis, the place who made those awesome western buildings I posted earlier, is having a sale for the next 6 days. 15% off everything. Time to buy more buildings I guess. EDIT: Yep. Bought two more wild west buildings, and a bunch of 20mm buildings for Force on Force/Ambush Alley. 3 Action Economist fucked around with this message at 15:08 on May 23, 2012 |
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May 23, 2012 14:38
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Apparently Warhammer historical has shut up shop.
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May 25, 2012 04:05
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No Pun Intended posted:Apparently Warhammer historical has shut up shop. I thought it was going to happen sooner or later once Rick Priestley left GW. Warhammer Historicals had been on minimum life support for years even at that point. I'm happy to see that Black Powder is doing as well as it does, once he and Jervis could make a historical game that is not completely overshadowed by other games with higher priority within the company.
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May 25, 2012 06:20
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Not sure why they couldn't leave the downloads section up, though. Glad I've already grabbed all the erratas and other printables for the games I own at least.
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May 25, 2012 12:47
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So Legends of the Old West is something I will never have. Or Kampfgruppe Kursk.
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May 25, 2012 13:14
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moths posted:So Legends of the Old West is something I will never have. Or Kampfgruppe Kursk. I bought LotOW from eBay as a set. You might have luck that way.
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May 25, 2012 13:55
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I'll have to try that, thanks. It's a shame they didn't go all Specialist Games and put the PDFs up for free though.
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May 25, 2012 14:40
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Thats because GW are terrible
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May 25, 2012 17:52
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Serotonin posted:Thats because GW are terrible I mean was it really costing them anything extra to have the downloads section available with errata?
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May 25, 2012 18:37
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GW lets specialist games survive because it occasionally moves pewter and promotes the big money makers. It has no interest in games that aren't 100% dependent on their miniatures. They really are the worst.
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May 25, 2012 18:57
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| # ? May 24, 2024 12:34 |
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lilljonas posted:I thought it was going to happen sooner or later once Rick Priestley left GW. Warhammer Historicals had been on minimum life support for years even at that point. I'm happy to see that Black Powder is doing as well as it does, once he and Jervis could make a historical game that is not completely overshadowed by other games with higher priority within the company. They might end up getting reprinted by someone else, like FFG picked up Rogue Trader, hopefully?
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May 25, 2012 21:30
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