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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

AFewBricksShy posted:

I’m not sure how those are installed but I think they are just screwed on. If you’re able to get them off clean you’d be able to reuse them, but you’re going to have to keep all of their sizing and such in mind as you install the new counters.

yeah, unfortunately with that, plus the fact that my sink cabinet is a nonstandard size, plus cost, etc. etc. I realized if I do anything I'll just get some of those doors I posted about a few days ago in the same size with same hinge placements - they look like the Ikea VOXTORP doors with the integrated handles.

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



CommonShore posted:

Frozen north indeed. Perhaps I'll set the feet on patio blocks and take it inside or cover it during the winter. Little things like that can make a difference in my experience. Heck when I was a teenager I made some patio furniture out of poplar and screws and they lasted like 10 years (rip) so that tells you something about the climate. I guess my concern for this project is whether mortise-and-tenon joinery will be worse or weaker or shorter-lived than approaching it with screws washers and bolts.

I may have posted rashly saying ash is good outdoors, but in your situation, and with a few patio blocks, I'll take the spider sense corollary and stand by it.

As a sidenote, the variety known as swamp ash, which has the nice contrasting grain is what Fender stratocaster bodies are made from, and that thickness is excellent. In case you have a surplus of lumber.

2nd sidenote edit: ash is quite flexible and tough so I'd say it can handle mortise and tenon joinery better than a majority of other woods, but, obviously you have to use common sense.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Mr. Mambold posted:

I may have posted rashly saying ash is good outdoors, but in your situation, and with a few patio blocks, I'll take the spider sense corollary and stand by it.

As a sidenote, the variety known as swamp ash, which has the nice contrasting grain is what Fender stratocaster bodies are made from, and that thickness is excellent. In case you have a surplus of lumber.

2nd sidenote edit: ash is quite flexible and tough so I'd say it can handle mortise and tenon joinery better than a majority of other woods, but, obviously you have to use common sense.

perhaps we can revise to "Ash is not bad outdoors."

And the thickness I'm looking at is pretty much ideal for guitars. I don't think I can talk myself into becoming a luthier though. Right now I'm going to stick with "shelf and bench."

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(




Another corrugated type 8 followed me home, but a No.7 this time. Screw adjustable frogs are for nerds anyways.

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler
Had a productive day with the old man.



I'm planning on building a new house this spring and am not thrilled with the price of spruce 2x6" 8' lumber. I'm cutting my own studding which should save me some money since they're going for about $15 each at the store. We have a line on a few people with their stamp, so fingers crossed. I have about half as much 16' and we just rolled a bunch of white ash up to the sawmill for flooring. Also this stuff is actually 2" by 6" or 8".

Once we're done cutting I'm going to weight the piles down and let them dry in the barn over the winter. The ash (after it's been planed) will sit in the house and acclimate until it's ready to lay.

Settled on the Beaver Homes "Gatineau"

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Blistex posted:

Had a productive day with the old man.



I'm planning on building a new house this spring and am not thrilled with the price of spruce 2x6" 8' lumber. I'm cutting my own studding which should save me some money since they're going for about $15 each at the store. We have a line on a few people with their stamp, so fingers crossed. I have about half as much 16' and we just rolled a bunch of white ash up to the sawmill for flooring. Also this stuff is actually 2" by 6" or 8".

Once we're done cutting I'm going to weight the piles down and let them dry in the barn over the winter. The ash (after it's been planed) will sit in the house and acclimate until it's ready to lay.

Settled on the Beaver Homes "Gatineau"


Wow that’s cool as hell. Congrats

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


Finished this little refinishing I was asking about a while ago. Went with Danish Oil, and I'm quite happy with it. I think wax might have been good too, for a bit more subdued look, but I couldn't figure out how to evenly apply it to the crevices (the one I have is a solid wax)





Ranidas
Jun 19, 2007
That turned out really nice! How did you apply it to get it in all the nooks and crannies?

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


Just an old paintbrush. The carvings are solid enough I could work it in pretty aggressively to get all the crevices, then go over gentler a minute later to even it out and get rid of any bubbles

Not a bad result for a $10 yard sale piece!

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler

CarForumPoster posted:

Wow that’s cool as hell. Congrats

My dad wants to cut a ton of 1x12" pine to sheet the floors on the second floor and loft, but I would prefer to not have my place sound like a haunted house every time I get up to use the bathroom.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Blistex posted:

My dad wants to cut a ton of 1x12" pine to sheet the floors on the second floor and loft, but I would prefer to not have my place sound like a haunted house every time I get up to use the bathroom.

Like what, creaking? There's all kinds of ways of fastening that stuff securely. I'm with dad here. Hell, I am dad here. Check this thread out, there are houses here from the 17th - 19 centuries with 1x12 and wider flooring. Almost all are pine. It's great.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3819901

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler
That might be so, but I'd rather spend the $500 and sheet it. It makes flooring over top of it easier, adds torsional strength to the house, and I don't have to spend days running it through a 12.5" dewalt planer. I'll probably end up doing my garage/workshop roof with it.

Also it's orders of magnitude faster and easier to install.

Blistex fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Oct 11, 2020

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Blistex posted:

That might be so, but I'd rather spend the $500 and sheet it. It makes flooring over top of it easier, adds torsional strength to the house, and I don't have to spend days running it through a 12.5" dewalt planer. I'll probably end up doing my garage/workshop roof with it.

Also it's orders of magnitude faster and easier to install.
I think Mambold (and myself) thought your dad was suggesting wide plank pine *flooring*.

Unrelated edit: I found this in a thrift store today. It looks dangerous. I declined to purchase it.

http://imgur.com/a/YfWGys9

Slugworth fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Oct 12, 2020

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Slugworth posted:

I think Mambold (and myself) thought your dad was suggesting wide plank pine *flooring*.

I did, and why anyone would want some other flooring over that is beyond me. He could screw down 4x8 plywood subfloor and go over it with pine, or hell, he can goon out in any number of ways.

Slugworth posted:

Unrelated edit: I found this in a thrift store today. It looks dangerous. I declined to purchase it.

http://imgur.com/a/YfWGys9

I remember those, and it's an utter monstrosity. Supposed to convert a table saw (or radial arm I suppose) to a shaper, but one major downside is hss cutters. Or I should say hssssss....

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler

Mr. Mambold posted:

I did, and why anyone would want some other flooring over that is beyond me. He could screw down 4x8 plywood subfloor and go over it with pine, or hell, he can goon out in any number of ways.

My cabin is done in 1x12" pine flooring over T&G subflooring. I love it, and it's beautiful, but I don't really want it in my house as I have a different aesthetic in mind.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


I need a cheap chisel set to do my first butt hinge mortice (for a small pine box that I’m making). Are these fine for a beginner?

https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-3-pi...ag=toughjobs-20

Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Oct 12, 2020

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Rock My Socks! posted:

I need a cheap chisel set to do my first hinge mortice (for a small pine box that I’m making). Are these fine for a beginner?

You should get just the chisel you need for your size mortise, but any chisel will do the job, no new chisels have truly bad steel. You'll need to properly sharpen any new chisel before use though.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

For fine work like hinge mortises, I wouldn't cheap out. I think you'll regret those plastic handles. They're heavy and so hard to control. You don't often hold chisels by the handle, especially doing fine work.

Narex makes great chisels for only a little more. Get one or two in the size you need, you don't need more than a couple. By far I most often use my 1" and 5/8". And yeah, you'll need a sharpening/honing solution for whatever you buy.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Echoing Narex for budget, LN or LV (bought piecemeal to lessen the $$ sting) for "buy once cry once"

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
True for rasps too? I see Auriou as a good option for crying once? Or is there something that would do a similarly good job? I have some shaping I want to try to do and the cheapo rasp I have is okay, but am interested in something better.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

e: ^^ oh my god yes absolutely. The Narex rasps are pretty much the standard next-tier-down option but hand stitched rasps like Auriou are better in every single way (if you're using them often).



Yeah, I'd absolutely recommend getting single Lie Nielsen socket chisels over anything else. They have perfectly flat backs that require zero work and great steel. Lee Valley/Veritas bench chisels are equally excellent but they're not as pretty because socket chisels are the platonic ideal of chisels. :v:

The other options I've got direct experience with are Woodriver socket chisels (very flat, but still need some love. otherwise pretty much perfect) and Narex dovetail chisels (excellent as they have a hollow back and are very quick to flatten). Both easy to get as single chisels. The Narex bevel edge chisels are probably also a good choice.


Especially for chisels, flattening the back is going to be the most time consuming thing and require more and more out of the sharpening system you go with. If it's just some hinge mortises you can get away with a lot in terms of flatness, but if you're planning on more it's going to take progressively more work to get a chisel to do what you need.

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Oct 13, 2020

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


That is great to know about the Narex rasps. I didn't even know they made them. I got a very coarse hand cut rasp from Toolsforworkingwood years ago and it is not great, especially compared to my one Auriou. I have been very happy with my Narex mortice chisels too. I've had good luck on Ebay with used chisels (Freud sold some for a while with nice boxwood handles and good steel) but if you don't have a grinder they can be a pain to rehab if they've been used as staple pullers.

I wish more chisel makers used the octagonal London pattern handles. My smaller chisels with european round handles always roll around and fall off the bench.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Already covered by others but thirding "Just buy the Auriou" when it comes to rasps.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
Awesome. I will be buying probably two of them in different shape and coarseness. Even in pictures they just look like they want to slide through wood in a way the cheap one I have doesn’t.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


They are really super excellent. I just have 1 (9" #11? 11" #9? sounds familiar? flat on one side and half round on the other) and have never really needed another one, but a smaller one or a set of small rifflers/rattail files would be nice. Depends what kind and scale of work you are trying to do-I've mostly wanted a smaller one for carvings. 80 grit paper wrapped around various sizes of dowel will cover alot of gaps. I can go straight from the auriou rasp to 80 grit sandpaper in a softish wood like mahogany or walnut if I don't cut crossgrain too much.

I've also had good luck using cheap coarse double cut files from HF as an intermediate step between rasp and sanding or just as a fine rasp. A coarse 1/4" round file does a good job on tight curves and seems to cut fairly fast. The files work great for cleaning up 1/4" plywood patterns.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe
Has anyone here built a fold down desk? With the wife and I working from home, her office is our bedroom and her desk has been a foldable TV dinner stand. She's requested I build her a fold down desk. Looking around on-line for inspiration, and it's mostly just pinterest garbage.

She would like it so that she faces the wall while working (so not the cross-ways some of them are), and she would like it to have wooden supports (legs are fine, triangular supports are fine, but cannot be held by chains.)

If all else fails, I'll likely just go with a build something like this

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


SouthShoreSamurai posted:

Has anyone here built a fold down desk? With the wife and I working from home, her office is our bedroom and her desk has been a foldable TV dinner stand. She's requested I build her a fold down desk. Looking around on-line for inspiration, and it's mostly just pinterest garbage.

She would like it so that she faces the wall while working (so not the cross-ways some of them are), and she would like it to have wooden supports (legs are fine, triangular supports are fine, but cannot be held by chains.)

If all else fails, I'll likely just go with a build something like this



Lee Valley has some cheap folding leg brackets that work surprisingly well.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/hardware/table-hardware/legs/leg-brackets/40035-folding-leg-bracket?item=00T1601

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler
Cut approximately 130 1x6" white ash boards this afternoon. At 3.5'² each (after planing) I think I will need another 60 or so to do the living/dining room. Tomorrow I'll knock down another 2-3 ash and mill them. It's nice being able to drive the tractor less than 100m from the mill to get maple/ash/oak/elm/birch/pine/spruce/poplar.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster


I got a very similar set of these from Rockler as well.

I built a shop table that folds down with a shallow shop cabinet behind it, but a similar thing with attention paid to the edges/finish to make it actually look nice would make a nice desk.



z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name
I've been preparing material to try to make a table and as obvious as it may be, it's kind of amazing how hand tools add an extra factor of "what do I physically feel like doing today." I need to rip a three-foot, 6x4 piece of rough cherry into legs with a panel saw and, while admittedly my saw's not that sharp (because I'm not very good at sharpening), it's hard to want to do more than one cut in a row. It's just tiring.

I don't have space or the right environment for a table saw, but it's difficult not to think of how I'd have been finished with these cuts in about five minutes.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Ripping is only surpassed by thicknessing when it comes to drudgery. These are the first two ops to have an electron fueled alternative to. For ripping you can go bandsaw/tablesaw/tracksaw all with various degrees of limitations, but you'll definitely want something.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

z0331 posted:

I've been preparing material to try to make a table and as obvious as it may be, it's kind of amazing how hand tools add an extra factor of "what do I physically feel like doing today." I need to rip a three-foot, 6x4 piece of rough cherry into legs with a panel saw and, while admittedly my saw's not that sharp (because I'm not very good at sharpening), it's hard to want to do more than one cut in a row. It's just tiring.

I don't have space or the right environment for a table saw, but it's difficult not to think of how I'd have been finished with these cuts in about five minutes.

It makes you appreciate the humans who had to do it with flint tools for the first 10,000 years of civilization :v:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JcWY0rjePU

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


z0331 posted:

I've been preparing material to try to make a table and as obvious as it may be, it's kind of amazing how hand tools add an extra factor of "what do I physically feel like doing today." I need to rip a three-foot, 6x4 piece of rough cherry into legs with a panel saw and, while admittedly my saw's not that sharp (because I'm not very good at sharpening), it's hard to want to do more than one cut in a row. It's just tiring.

I don't have space or the right environment for a table saw, but it's difficult not to think of how I'd have been finished with these cuts in about five minutes.

Bandsaws are great for making solid wood furniture and usually a smaller footprint than tablesaws (which aren’t going to help you a ton on 4” thick stuff anyway).

More importantly, where the heck are you finding 4” thick cherry?

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name

GEMorris posted:

Ripping is only surpassed by thicknessing when it comes to drudgery. These are the first two ops to have an electron fueled alternative to. For ripping you can go bandsaw/tablesaw/tracksaw all with various degrees of limitations, but you'll definitely want something.

I work in my musty, unfinished basement with just about zero air circulation, limited outlets, and almost no overhead space due to ductwork. I could maaaybe see myself getting some sort of contractor-style stuff to set up outside when I need it, but eh.

Ironically, I was hoping working with hand tools would help me learn to slow down. I just finished building a sawbench and made about three or four egregious mistakes because I was rushing and just wasn't being careful and double-checking myself.

Rutibex posted:

It makes you appreciate the humans who had to do it with flint tools for the first 10,000 years of civilization :v:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JcWY0rjePU

How much of "craftsmanship" is just people not being able to physically do things faster/more easily?

Edit:

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Bandsaws are great for making solid wood furniture and usually a smaller footprint than tablesaws (which aren’t going to help you a ton on 4” thick stuff anyway).

More importantly, where the heck are you finding 4” thick cherry?

Hah! That was a typo - 6/4 inch.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Rutibex posted:

It makes you appreciate the humans who had to do it with flint tools for the first 10,000 years of civilization :v:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JcWY0rjePU

that channel is a pro tier subscribe, by the way. (there's a few copycat channels). Turn on captions if you want words explaining what he's doing, but I like to leave them off.

There's one where he does mortise-and-tenon joints to hold up a hut, using nothing but stone tools, that is particularly relevant:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P73REgj-3UE

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Leperflesh posted:

that channel is a pro tier subscribe, by the way. (there's a few copycat channels). Turn on captions if you want words explaining what he's doing, but I like to leave them off.

There's one where he does mortise-and-tenon joints to hold up a hut, using nothing but stone tools, that is particularly relevant:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P73REgj-3UE

There are a lot of ??? in this video. He 100% has like 12 off camera people helping him with this. Not that it makes it not interesting to see how the parts come together.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

CommonShore posted:

There are a lot of ??? in this video. He 100% has like 12 off camera people helping him with this. Not that it makes it not interesting to see how the parts come together.

I don't think he does it all in one afternoon. One video represents months of weekend work.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Rutibex posted:

I don't think he does it all in one afternoon. One video represents months of weekend work.

Yeah but if that were the case the walls of the hut would be drying out as he worked. For the bottoms to be still plastic when the tops are being put into place you'd need a whole team of people slamming it into place together.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Discussion>The Bone Depot>Woodworking Mudworking: a whole team of people slamming it together

I haven’t watched the mud one but the stone tools one is neat-thanks for sharing. Looks like bashing trees to smithereens with rocks is a good fitness program but, uh, thank the gods for high speed steel.

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Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Discussion>The Bone Depot>Woodworking Mudworking: a whole team of people slamming it together

I haven’t watched the mud one but the stone tools one is neat-thanks for sharing. Looks like bashing trees to smithereens with rocks is a good fitness program but, uh, thank the gods for high speed steel.

To be fair, slat-flipping is derived directly from mud slamming. So it’s good to know where our skills come from.

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