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The Dewalt 735X planer is on sale for $599 at HD, is that the typical lowest price? I probably need to pull the trigger on a planer, and I might as well get the consensus best lunchbox one.
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Nov 7, 2020 23:23
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JEEVES420 posted:So what is a good, cheap, no fuss out of the box, brand new brand for planes? I really have no desire to restore a plane or pay lee valley prices for them. No idea but price wise it kind of goes No-name($20-40)->Irwin($50)->Stanley($100)->Bench Dog($150)->Wood River($200)->Veritas($250)->Lie Nielson($350) I've never used the Bench Dog or Wood River planes but their other products are fine, not amazing but generally work out of the box with just a bit of sharpening. The junk collector fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Nov 8, 2020 |
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Nov 8, 2020 00:02
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JEEVES420 posted:So what is a good, cheap, no fuss out of the box, brand new brand for planes? I really have no desire to restore a plane or pay lee valley prices for them. Absolutely Wood River. They're flat, have thick irons and are essentially clones of Lie Nielsen planes. They're not as nice in terms of finish and casting quality, but easily 80% as good.
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Nov 8, 2020 00:07
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JEEVES420 posted:So what is a good, cheap, no fuss out of the box, brand new brand for planes? I really have no desire to restore a plane or pay lee valley prices for them. New all-metal planes in the sub $LOL range are a huge crapshoot, quality wise. You're looking at maybe a 1 in 5 chance of not having to do anything to the body out of the box, assuming it's a correctable issue at all. To be fair, I haven't explored every brand out there, but I haven't yet seen anything to indicate otherwise. Try a Japanese plane, maybe? Japan Woodworker's entry level stuff gets reviewed pretty well, and I see the #4 equivalent go for about $50.
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Nov 8, 2020 00:08
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I've always heard good things about Wood River. Never used one myself. Unless you're really dead set against it, I'd really strongly consider the eBay route though. I think you can still get old No 5s in good condition for like $50. I got mine for $33 shipped and all it needed was a sharpening, but that was four years ago.
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Nov 8, 2020 00:19
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more falafel please posted:The Dewalt 735X planer is on sale for $599 at HD, is that the typical lowest price? I probably need to pull the trigger on a planer, and I might as well get the consensus best lunchbox one. That's what I've got an I absolutely love it. I haven't tried other planes though so others might chime in.
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Nov 8, 2020 00:45
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more falafel please posted:The Dewalt 735X planer is on sale for $599 at HD, is that the typical lowest price? I probably need to pull the trigger on a planer, and I might as well get the consensus best lunchbox one. Dewalt ran a promotion in the summer that had them down to $499 which is the lowest I've seen. My local Lodepot's sold out very quickly but I ended up snagging one off Amazon.
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Nov 8, 2020 00:59
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Elem7 posted:Dewalt ran a promotion in the summer that had them down to $499 which is the lowest I've seen. My local Lodepot's sold out very quickly but I ended up snagging one off Amazon. The Home Depot deal also includes a stand, which I could make easily, but it might be nice not to.
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Nov 8, 2020 01:30
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 Made my first ever frame today. It probably wouldn't have taken me as long as it did if I had a table saw and a router table, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. So it's all glued together, but I kinda screwed up clamping it all together and ended up with little gaps where the sides meet. I'd heard of the trick about mixing a little saw dust with the glue to hide seams, but I'm not sure I got the ratio right.
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Nov 8, 2020 01:46
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Getting mitered corners to fit perfectly is one of those things that's more way more difficult than it seems like it should be, and the little imperfections will bug the hell out of the person who made it, but no one else will notice.
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Nov 8, 2020 01:51
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Probably no chance (without Rit), but just in case: I went "catch 'em all" on Scrollsaw magazine's $2 sale and bought all the back issues. There's a fretwork Christmas tree pattern that I like that calls for 1/4 boards. I bought very nice, very green poplar 1/2" boards from Lowe's. Glued them up, planed them down. No more green. Is there a natural way to get the green heart back or a way to stain/dye that will be close?
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Nov 8, 2020 02:10
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oh dope posted:
Looks good, I didn't notice anything wrong with the corners! What is involved with a router table anyway? Is it just like a solid table with a hole in it, so you can mount the router up side down? I have a router.....
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Nov 8, 2020 02:12
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Rutibex posted:Looks good, I didn't notice anything wrong with the corners! Should be low friction, dead flat, and dimensionally stable like any other good power tool table. Need a throat plate so there's as little clearance around the bit as possible. Split fence.
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Nov 8, 2020 02:25
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more falafel please posted:Getting mitered corners to fit perfectly is one of those things that's more way more difficult than it seems like it should be, and the little imperfections will bug the hell out of the person who made it, but no one else will notice. That's what I keep telling myself. The paint definitely helped cover it up. Rutibex posted:Looks good, I didn't notice anything wrong with the corners! Doing the rabbet cut for the picture to sit in. There's probably an easy way to do one without a table but I managed.
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Nov 8, 2020 02:29
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Sono posted:Probably no chance (without Rit), but just in case: Poplar heartwood is green but it turns kind of a yellow brown as it ages/oxidizes. The sapwood is white. You can get some green dye and go to town? Poplar takes stain kind of funny. The heartwood stains well but the sapwood does strange things sometimes.
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Nov 8, 2020 04:01
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more falafel please posted:The Dewalt 735X planer is on sale for $599 at HD, is that the typical lowest price? I probably need to pull the trigger on a planer, and I might as well get the consensus best lunchbox one. I think that's the typical us price? I actually just picked up the Rigid as it's on sale for $400cdn right now and the dw735x is 800 and impossile to find
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Nov 8, 2020 05:02
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Generalissimo
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JEEVES420 posted:So what is a good, cheap, no fuss out of the box, brand new brand for planes? I really have no desire to restore a plane or pay lee valley prices for them. First option would be to buy a restored type-17-or-earlier stanley. Often you can find folks who've done restos (or are selling planes that don't need any/much resto) on WoodNet Stanley Sweetheart or Wood River are the only legit "mid-market" new options worth looking at. I have no experience with benchdog. Buying a "new" cheap plane won't save you any time vs restoring an old plane, you'll spend all the time you saved cleaning on fettling the new tool. If those prices are still too high then buy an old stanley and put in the work. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Nov 8, 2020 |
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Nov 8, 2020 05:57
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Sono posted:I bought very nice, very green poplar 1/2" boards from Lowe's. Glued them up, planed them down. No more green. Is there a natural way to get the green heart back or a way to stain/dye that will be close? If you're looking to just put a greenish cast back into the wood without making it look obvious, I'd say buy an oil based wood dye and thin it with meths down to about 1/3rd (enough that a pass barely changes the wood's color) then run it through an air compressor spray gun - do a bunch of passes until you get what looks like less than you want. I find that dye tends to darken after it dries and it can make your wood look too strongly colored when it does.
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Nov 8, 2020 06:57
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Crossposting from my AI thread, I recently finished a full setout for my workshop for which I'll be building a mixture of wood and car stuff in:  Full post can be found here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3869898&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=5#post509368011 Generally speaking, using roughly 1700 kreg screws and about ten litres of polyurethane and linseed oil isn't a technically skilled undertaking, but I am happy that the results will allow me to get down to doing the work I want to do in the space now. Spades fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Nov 8, 2020 |
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Nov 8, 2020 07:25
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 One more of the cheese platter and the knife is there too for some extra context. this is the reverse side
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Nov 8, 2020 08:21
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Spades posted:Crossposting from my AI thread, I recently finished a full setout for my workshop for which I'll be building a mixture of wood and car stuff in:  I'm super jelly look at all that space and clamps! Will you be doing commercial production, or is it just a hobby shop?
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Nov 8, 2020 13:31
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JEEVES420 posted:So what is a good, cheap, no fuss out of the box, brand new brand for planes? I really have no desire to restore a plane or pay lee valley prices for them. https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/107671218 slightly used, go ahead tweak. more falafel please posted:The Dewalt 735X planer is on sale for $599 at HD, is that the typical lowest price? I probably need to pull the trigger on a planer, and I might as well get the consensus best lunchbox one. There's this weird tradition called Black Friday soon? Totally a scam imo, but.... Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Nov 8, 2020 |
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Nov 8, 2020 17:30
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Rutibex posted:
A bit in between is the plan - I should be back into my retirement come next year and I plan to produce just enough furniture and car work to pay for my yearly living costs and materials for my own projects.
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Nov 8, 2020 21:11
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I posted a few days ago about putting splines in the mitered corners of a waterfall bench I was making. The first attempt wasn't great, I forgot to clamp a piece onto the sled and it slipped and tore out a huge chunk. So the bench ended up shorter and less wide than I wanted. But I think it looks pretty good after all.
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Nov 9, 2020 00:02
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NomNomNom posted:I posted a few days ago about putting splines in the mitered corners of a waterfall bench I was making. The first attempt wasn't great, I forgot to clamp a piece onto the sled and it slipped and tore out a huge chunk. So the bench ended up shorter and less wide than I wanted. You think correctly, it looks great!
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Nov 9, 2020 00:38
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Is 5mm (oak) thick enough for the walls of a sturdy box?
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Nov 9, 2020 16:01
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is 5mm (oak) thick enough for the walls of a sturdy box? It will be if the box is small enough. It's not uncommon to use 1/8th inch board for bottoms or inserts in jewelry boxes which is thinner than 5mm. You need to define "sturdy" though.
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Nov 9, 2020 16:14
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The junk collector posted:It will be if the box is small enough. It's not uncommon to use 1/8th inch board for bottoms or inserts in jewelry boxes which is thinner than 5mm. You need to define "sturdy" though. I need to be circumspect because it's for the secret santa, but something in the region of 1'x1' in plan, maybe 4-6" in elevation. It won't be carrying anything particularly heavy but I'd like it to be study enough to be at least a bit utilitarian, so it can be carried around and used without special care taken, without breaking.
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Nov 9, 2020 16:19
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Jaded Burnout posted:I need to be circumspect because it's for the secret santa, but something in the region of 1'x1' in plan, maybe 4-6" in elevation. It won't be carrying anything particularly heavy but I'd like it to be study enough to be at least a bit utilitarian, so it can be carried around and used without special care taken, without breaking. If it is joined with dovetails or box joints it’s is probably okay, but I wouldn’t go any bigger than that. That’s too thin for nailed/screwed construction imo-the fasteners will split the thin wood. You might want to reinforce around the handle (if there is one).
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Nov 9, 2020 16:48
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I need advice. I'm building a bar out of plywood and red oak. I cut all of my scraps down now, I have enough for the face frames and to be able to make the frame part of the raised panel doors. I'm planning on getting either 6 or 8/4 wood ripped in half to make the raised panels so that I can book match them. My question is: the entire bar is going to be oak. Should I try and do some contrasting wood (like walnut or maple or something) as the raised panel, or will that just look like I ran out of oak?
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Nov 9, 2020 16:58
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If it is joined with dovetails or box joints it’s is probably okay, but I wouldn’t go any bigger than that. That’s too thin for nailed/screwed construction imo-the fasteners will split the thin wood. You might want to reinforce around the handle (if there is one). OK. I can go thicker, just I have limited stock available. What would you suggest? I'll probably go for just glued mitres, maybe finger jointed if it's really a problem.
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Nov 9, 2020 17:38
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AFewBricksShy posted:I need advice. Something like this?  I happen to like the contrast, but to each their own.
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Nov 9, 2020 18:03
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Suntan Boy posted:Something like this? Pretty much, except it's just up against a window, not a stand behind bar.  Right now I have the drawer faces and the wine rack being oak, but considering I have to buy whatever for the doors, I thought I'd get a read on the thoughts of doing something different.
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Nov 9, 2020 18:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:OK. I can go thicker, just I have limited stock available. What would you suggest? I'll probably go for just glued mitres, maybe finger jointed if it's really a problem. AFewBricksShy posted:I need advice. That being said, oak is kind of in the middle as far as dark/light, so idk. Oak always looks good with other oak, but at least for me it’s a difficult wood to pair with other woods-maybe it’s the grain? Ash is a similar sort of grain but lighter color and night work fit a panel? It’s pretty much all a matter of personal taste and I don’t thing there is a ‘wrong’ answer.
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Nov 9, 2020 19:12
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So what is the best place to buy small pieces of hardwood lumber (like 1x4 and smaller), generally? All that my Lowes/Home Depot have is pine and poplar for the most part.
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Nov 9, 2020 19:27
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Rock My Socks! posted:So what is the best place to buy small pieces of hardwood lumber (like 1x4 and smaller), generally? All that my Lowes/Home Depot have is pine and poplar for the most part. If you have a proper lumber yard nearby, they'll usually have a big bin of cutoffs or turning blanks you can poke through.
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Nov 9, 2020 19:29
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:3/8”-1/2” would be better if you have it. I’m not a big fan of glued miter joints, but with a spline they are strong. The problem with thin stock like that is you don’t have much glue area on the miter or much thickness to get a spline in. Alright. I'll go for 10mm and finger joints on the structural parts. Will be a good chance to try out the shaper workstation.
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Nov 9, 2020 20:07
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AFewBricksShy posted:Pretty much, except it's just up against a window, not a stand behind bar. The way I've had it explained to me, it depends on the rest of the room. As a general rule of thumb, you want the panels to match the furniture. So, if your furniture is darker than the walls, then you'll want panels that are darker than the frame (walnut, cherry, mahogany, etc), and vice versa. If your furniture is pretty much the same color as the walls, then same color oak everything for the bar. I'm no design expert, though, so don't take that as gospel. Case in point: steampunk accents. Huxley posted:If you have a proper lumber yard nearby, they'll usually have a big bin of cutoffs or turning blanks you can poke through. And if you can't find a proper lumberyard, try poking around at lesser-known home improvement places, like Ganahl. Barring that, woodworking hobby shops like Woodcraft) might have what you're looking for, but the prices can be, uh, eye watering. Failing all of that, dice roll on the internet. Suntan Boy fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 20:48
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Finally finished my comics cabinet. I like the contrasting colors, but I'm not sure about the specific color used on the drawers. They look "wet" to me. May put a front of the drawers to cover up the edges in the future, but I'm done messing with it for now. Thanks for answering my questions as I tackled my first big project and as I learned a whole bunch about what works best for me.
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Nov 9, 2020 21:09
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Huxley posted:If you have a proper lumber yard nearby, they'll usually have a big bin of cutoffs or turning blanks you can poke through. This is the best option. The Internet is also a possibility - you can find almost anything. Shipping costs are going to suck if you're ordering one board, but it gets economical if you're making a big enough order. I've been using ocoochhardwoods.com to get big, diverse stacks of 2' boards to use for scrollsaw stuff.
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Nov 9, 2020 21:19
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