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Spiffness posted:
This is awesome.
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Feb 4, 2011 21:24
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Ola posted:Gweenz, you have two problems now. 1. My special tool budget is getting out of hand (Master Cylinder snap ring pliers, oil filter removal adapter, etc etc) 2. The 360? I bought her in the fall of 09 for $150. Last summer I got it running and rode it around a bit and had an absolute blast, but it was obvious some fixes were needed. She still needs a lot of work. This is my first project from the frame up. So far I've installed bronze swingarm bushings, fork seals, engine gaskets, steering stem bearings, rebuilt master, and clipons. I hope to replace the rear shocks and front springs, the stock suspension was garbage even when new. Also would love some rearsets but that can come later. Visually I plan on cutting down the front and rear fenders and adding aftermarket signals, brake light, and mirrors. I plan on wrapping the headers since they are a bit pitted out. The mufflers are actually in really good shape with no rust so I might just leave them as is. The tank needs new paint but it's solid with no dents. Overall it's not going to be a magazine piece, more of a rat racer. I just want a lighter, better handling, better looking version of the original. Original:   
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Feb 4, 2011 22:18
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Sweet build, can you ditch the battery and get a kickstart?
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Feb 5, 2011 04:43
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Spiffness posted:Finally got it all back together with the new wheels. The dull overcast Seattle lighting and camera phone do not do it justice. They look spectacular. So, which one did you want to trade for the duc again?  (I imagine one's zool's)
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Feb 5, 2011 09:52
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Gweenz posted:Has anyone removed a wheel bearing retainer from one of these old Hondas? I have fresh bearings for the rear but no way of removing the retainer. It looks like this: I had a similar bearing retainer on my BSA, just used a drift punch and patience in the end. Beware: there's a good chance that it's a reverse thread. Check the manual. Spiffness posted:Finally got it all back together with the new wheels. The dull overcast Seattle lighting and camera phone do not do it justice. They look spectacular. Thou shalt not covet thy neighbours wheels. Dare I ask where and how much? ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Feb 5, 2011 |
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Feb 5, 2011 13:18
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mutt2jeff posted:Sweet build, can you ditch the battery and get a kickstart? Thanks! Yup, it kicks over pretty easily, but I'm on the fence about making it kick only. Ditching the battery requires modifying the stock stator to run battery free, there's a kit out there but it's pretty expensive. Eventually I'd like to move the battery or get one of the expensive small ones, but I don't have the means to fabricate myself a battery box. quote:I had a similar bearing retainer on my BSA, just used a drift punch and patience in the end. Beware: there's a good chance that it's a reverse thread. Check the manual. I tried a drift punch but it's soft metal, and doesn't seem to want to budge. I'm aware of the reverse threads on some of these, but I can't get a definitive answer and the manual doesn't specify. That makes me think it's righty-tighty. Anyone know for sure? I'd hate to hammer on this thing only to find out I was going the wrong direction.
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Feb 5, 2011 16:53
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Slim Pickens posted:So, which one did you want to trade for the duc again? I'll trade you Zool's for the Duc, no problem. quote:Thou shalt not covet thy neighbours wheels. Well... there's no easy way to put this. They're 1k a wheel. But... last year my brother looped it and damaged the front wheel and a few cosmetic bits. He bought me the Bi-color front to replace the damaged stock front. I then sold the stock SM wheels to Gallous which pretty much took care of the rear wheel, so I'm not actually in it that much for all that bling. I'm so very happy to have bi-color wheels. The finish is amazing. Great flake in the orange, very very bright in the sun. They look awesome, but unlike Marchezi's they'll still hold up to abuse.
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Feb 5, 2011 19:48
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They're also tubeless, right? Because, yaknow, supermotos don't corner and perform well enough as it is. Better reduce rotating mass on the wheels!
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Feb 5, 2011 20:45
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Spiffness posted:I'll trade you Zool's for the Duc, no problem. Cool, I'll bring the bike over this weekend. I got the monster running again. for some reason it's having big problems starting cold, so I ended up spraying gas out of a spray bottle through the carb until it would idle at choke. Then I rode it up to the gas station, poured half a pint of seafoam in and filled it up, then ran it for a little while. I hope that sorts it out, but I might just have to bring it to the dealer to get poo poo straight.
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Feb 6, 2011 02:20
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I installed new float bowl seals on the carbs and then changed the oil and filter. That was a little bit of a bitch with the aftermarket 4 into 1 exhaust since it routes partially under the filter. Oil also drips all over the exhaust. I'm still having problems with the bike though. It will start up from cold decently but when it gets warmed up the bike just dies and doesn't want to start again. I haven't ohmed anything out yet but I think it might be a spark issue. I can't see it being anything with the carbs since they're clean and the floats seem to be set well since they're not overflowing the cylinders. I pulled the plugs and they still got spark but there were a few moments when I wasn't getting any. It might not have been grounding well on the valve cover that well since it got spark after a minute or so. It could have cooled off enough in that time though. Anyone have some ideas? I just want this drat thing to work work so I can ride it.
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Feb 6, 2011 05:52
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What kind of bike is it? I know my GS500 would start easily all the time but still die when warmed up.... all it needed was a valve adjustment. Valves clearances that are too tight can create negative clearances where the exhaust valve is almost always being pushed down causing it to run funny and usually die after idling.
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Feb 6, 2011 07:27
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It's a 1991 Kawasaki Ninja ZX600C4. I'll have to look at how much of a pain it's going to be to do the valve clearances.
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Feb 6, 2011 08:04
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Sounds like bad coils to me. They heat up and don't work, cool off and work again. Double check your spark and test your coils with a multimeter.
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Feb 6, 2011 13:42
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You can also heat them with a hairdrier and see if you can induce failure.
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Feb 6, 2011 18:18
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After taking my first big trip last week, I discovered that all the jokes about thumpers shaking themselves apart aren't jokes; they're instructions. One tube of red and one tube of purple permatex later, and I don't think my brake light assembly, the footpegs, rear subframe bolts, or kickstand are going to fall off anymore. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 07:32
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Geirskogul posted:After taking my first big trip last week, I discovered that all the jokes about thumpers shaking themselves apart aren't jokes; they're instructions. If SA had a 'like' button, the whole SM thread would approve of this post.
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Feb 7, 2011 07:56
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Flushed and bled the brakes on both ends this weekend. Holy poo poo, what a difference 2 years makes.
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Feb 7, 2011 10:13
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Geirskogul posted:After taking my first big trip last week, I discovered that all the jokes about thumpers shaking themselves apart aren't jokes; they're instructions. One day I realized my Husky no longer had a kickstarter.  I flushed the coolant on the 636...in the house...and didn't make a mess either! The bike was already on an old rug, which I piled newspapers and paint trays on. Then rather than actually flushing water through it I drained the coolant out of the bottom drain bolt into a funnel and jug, replaced the bolt and filled with water and repeat 5x, taking off the other drain bolt (there's two) periodically. I used some new coolant for the last flush as I didn't want to leave too much undistilled water in there and was too lazy to go buy distilled. And I did open the window near it for a bit to get some fresh air as well. Next step...flushing the brakes!  Click here for the full 1240x930 image.
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Feb 7, 2011 14:14
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Did you run it at some point while flushing? edit: oh wait, you were putting coolant back in it, I was thinking it was track prep with water wetter.
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Feb 7, 2011 20:42
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I still have to run it with the cap off to get the air out of the coolant and top off the oil probably, but no I'm not doing that until I roll it outside. Actually come to think of it...
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Feb 7, 2011 21:30
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Gnaghi posted:
I was dreading this for absolutely no reason at all, I guess I thought it would be way more fiddly than it was. 80p's worth ($1.10) of aquarium tubing, and it was job done  Geirskogul posted:After taking my first big trip last week, I discovered that all the jokes about thumpers shaking themselves apart aren't jokes; they're instructions. I'm down two indicators and two insurance cert' holders on the KTM and one fish-tail exhaust cap on the BSA Bantam. Still love the simplicity of a thumper though. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 21:31
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I ohmed out the coils on the ninja today. both had the same readings on my $3 harbor freight multimeter. The primary windings were at 3.8ohms hot and cold, should be 1.8-2.8ohms. The secondary windings were about 23kohms hot and cold, should be 10k-16kohms. With the readings being the same hot and cold I don't think the coils are the problem since it starts up and runs fine for 5-10mins. One thing I did see when I checked the plugs is that the #4 plug was wet and there was a bit of fuel in the cylinder. All the other plugs looked good. It seems like I need to adjust the float on that carb.  What else could it be? Just the valve clearances? Edit: I let it cool off for awhile and ran it for two mins or so then shut it off and checked plug #4. It looked like it was running rich but not wet like it was before. So, I think the fuel is draining in there after I try to start it after it dies. Also it started up without that plug in there just fine. NinjaTech fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Feb 8, 2011 |
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Feb 8, 2011 00:37
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Rode it. It was like 75 today instead of the 40's like it's been, so I pulled the bike out and adjusted and lubed the chain, cleaned up the little bit of oil mess it's made, and then rode just around town for an hour and a half. California winters, hah. It took about 10-15 to get back into the swing of things but after that I was home again. I'm excited for it to be spring so I can start riding every day again. I also need to start waking up more than 10 minutes before I have to leave for class, that'll help a lot.
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Feb 8, 2011 03:56
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Took the wifes TW 200 into the shop and gave it some much needed love. Rear brake adjustment, new handlebars, heated grips, cleaned the carb, some other bits and bobs. Still need to figure out why the headlight adjustment screws aren't working.
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Feb 8, 2011 05:14
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mutt2jeff posted:Took the wifes TW 200 into the shop and gave it some much needed love. Rear brake adjustment, new handlebars, heated grips, cleaned the carb, some other bits and bobs. Still need to figure out why the headlight adjustment screws aren't working. I miss my TW200. I should have kept it instead of getting this stupid ninja. I could have been riding all winter.
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Feb 8, 2011 08:00
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They are great bikes, but I would like to get rid of it. It doesn't get ridden enough, and I would really like to fill the garage space it takes up with a 125 MX bike. Unfortunately I cant convince her. It was her first vehicle and she used to commute to school and back 90 miles each way every week on it, with her cat strapped to the back. She is a little attached.NinjaTech posted:I miss my TW200. I should have kept it instead of getting this stupid ninja. I could have been riding all winter.
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Feb 8, 2011 09:28
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I had an incident with a traffic cone awhile back that ended up costing me a few spokes. Today I exacted my revenge  What does this have to do with my bike TODAY? Today I had to replace more spokes, as two months later the spokes opposite of the earlier broken ones snapped. I just need to pay someone $100 and have the tire rethreaded. Screw this noise.
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Feb 8, 2011 09:40
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ReelBigLizard posted:I was dreading this for absolutely no reason at all, I guess I thought it would be way more fiddly than it was. 80p's worth ($1.10) of aquarium tubing, and it was job done You could always pick up one of these, which then makes it almost too easy.
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Feb 8, 2011 17:14
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mutt2jeff posted:They are great bikes, but I would like to get rid of it. It doesn't get ridden enough, and I would really like to fill the garage space it takes up with a 125 MX bike. Unfortunately I cant convince her. It was her first vehicle and she used to commute to school and back 90 miles each way every week on it, with her cat strapped to the back. She is a little attached. I used to commute to school on mine too. I hadn't regeared it to have a higher top speed which is kind of why I sold it. I just needed something a little better for the freeway. People don't seem to sell their TW200s often at all around here. The only ones I see are pretty new and way more than I'm able to spend, especially on a 200.
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Feb 8, 2011 18:38
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Well I ran it again until it died earlier. Still getting spark so I'm pretty sure that can be ruled out now. Fuel doesn't seem to be the problem either since it ran for 13mins this time just fine. I did notice that the radiator fan isn't coming on at all. The cooling hoses get pretty warm but the gauge barely moves as well. Would there be some sort of overheating fail safe that shuts the bike off? It doesn't make much sense to me but just a thought. Also, is there a way without taking the valve cover off to see if it's the valves? Compression test perhaps.
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Feb 9, 2011 03:34
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If its starting and running fine for 13 minutes, its not the valves. The bike should be more than warmed up after that amount of time, so it could be the you have a bad thermostat, keeping the fan from coming on or the bike from knowing its proper temp. Any bike I have owned (including a 620 duc) would have been cooking at the end of just sitting and idling for 13 minutes. Have you checked all the fuses?
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Feb 9, 2011 04:03
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I checked the fuses and they're all good. I'm really at a loss about what is causing this problem.
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Feb 9, 2011 06:07
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Well then, head to the coolant temp sensor, it fits the problem.
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Feb 9, 2011 08:47
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mutt2jeff posted:It was her first vehicle and she used to commute to school and back 90 miles each way every week on it, with her cat strapped to the back. She is a little attached. That is pretty hardcore.
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Feb 9, 2011 09:16
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Gnaghi posted:You could always pick up one of these, which then makes it almost too easy. I looked at buying one of those but honestly it actually seemed like more of a fiddle. I only have a single caliper on each end of the bike, the hassle of storing another tool, let alone one that will need to be cleaned compared to just jamming on a bit of tube and looping it over the bars into a disposable waste container; it just isn't worth it. I guess I'd consider a pump if I had a large number of vehicles.
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Feb 9, 2011 11:08
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mutt2jeff posted:Well then, head to the coolant temp sensor, it fits the problem. That would keep the bike from staying running?
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Feb 10, 2011 00:01
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I think it's dying because you're letting it idle away for 13 minutes. Get a full tank of fresh gas in there, and ride it. Bikes don't like idling for extended periods.
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Feb 10, 2011 00:27
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I would guess there is an emergency shutoff somewhere what is still working and sensing the bike is overheating. If the cooling fan isn't being switched on for some reason, and the bike is overheating, then the bike shuts down to prevent damage, or something like the coil is overheating. Wait, I just looked back through the tread, I could have sworn we were talking about a 620 Ducati. Is that in another thread? So confused. Never-mind my reference to me having one then.
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Feb 10, 2011 00:39
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Z3n posted:I think it's dying because you're letting it idle away for 13 minutes. Get a full tank of fresh gas in there, and ride it. Bikes don't like idling for extended periods. It dies when I ride it too. The tank has new gas in it as well. Would riding it around my neighborhood be adequate to test it some more? I don't want to have to push it too far when it quits on me again.
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Feb 10, 2011 00:40
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NinjaTech posted:It dies when I ride it too. The tank has new gas in it as well. Would riding it around my neighborhood be adequate to test it some more? I don't want to have to push it too far when it quits on me again. Around the block is fine. Have you checked the battery terminals yet? Can you do anything to induce it to die? Shake it? Push and pull on the tank? Side panels? This reeks of some sort of electrical connection issue. If your electricals are all in good shape, I'm gonna toss my vote in the valves camp. If it starts from cold with no problems, but has issues holding an idle or starting when hot, that points to valve issues as the head heats up and closes up the clearances. Z3n fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 00:41
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