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How do y'all cut splines, and, maybe more specifically, spline stock? I made a pretty basic spline jig and cut some strips of maple to about as close to 1/8" as I could, just using push sticks to keep the piece up against the fence. I set up the jig to cut as close to the middle as I could, and made some test cuts. My spline stock wouldn't fit, so I tried nudging the rip fence over a hair and cutting the spline on both sides to center it. That ended up being too big, so I went back and forth over and over, eventually getting to a loose-ish friction fit that seemed like it would be tight once there was glue involved. Then I tried on my actual workpiece (a picture frame) and it cut way too loose of a slot. Ok, guess I have to make more spline stock. Cut a strip too thick, nudge the fence over just slightly to try to trim it off, still too thick, try again, too thin. Repeat a couple more times until I have a tight friction fit and just decide to sand the loving things down so I can glue it up and move on. I guess I need some kind of thin strip jig to cut strips on the left side of the blade with a screw for micro adjusting or something, because it took me longer to put splines in the frame than it did to mill lumber, rip it, cut rabbets, cut miters to length, glue it up, and wait for the glueup.
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Nov 18, 2020 07:51
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Flea Bargain posted:So i got 80 grit sandpaper and started flattening my plane and it's looking great... Until i check if its square to the aide of the plane, and its not - its about 0.5mm high on one side. How hosed am i? Should i start flattening again with more pressure on that side? How big a deal is it? I know I wont be able to shoot with it, which is a problem in the future I guess. I'm not sure which Stanley you have, but any budget plane is not going to have square cheeks/sides. Stanley, Grizzly, Taytools, etc. Hell, my Grizzly doesn't even have parallel cheeks, they lean in, and at different angles. It shouldn't be an issue for planing as long as the base is flat enough and you can get the blade even with it. I don't think you'll realistically get through .5mm of metal with sandpaper. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Nov 18, 2020 |
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Nov 18, 2020 09:17
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Bondematt posted:I'm not sure which Stanley you have, but any budget plane is not going to have square cheeks/sides. Stanley, Grizzly, Taytools, etc. Hell, my Grizzly doesn't even have parallel cheeks, they lean in, and at different angles. Dang. Definitely wish I'd just bought an old plane or a nicer new one. Lesson learned.
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Nov 18, 2020 14:49
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more falafel please posted:How do y'all cut splines, and, maybe more specifically, spline stock? I made a pretty basic spline jig and cut some strips of maple to about as close to 1/8" as I could, just using push sticks to keep the piece up against the fence. I set up the jig to cut as close to the middle as I could, and made some test cuts. My spline stock wouldn't fit, so I tried nudging the rip fence over a hair and cutting the spline on both sides to center it. That ended up being too big, so I went back and forth over and over, eventually getting to a loose-ish friction fit that seemed like it would be tight once there was glue involved. Then I tried on my actual workpiece (a picture frame) and it cut way too loose of a slot. Ok, guess I have to make more spline stock. Cut a strip too thick, nudge the fence over just slightly to try to trim it off, still too thick, try again, too thin. Repeat a couple more times until I have a tight friction fit and just decide to sand the loving things down so I can glue it up and move on. I take the fence off and use a small sled and a either cheap set of calipers or a sample piece to measure the distance.
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Nov 18, 2020 15:41
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Flea Bargain posted:Dang. Definitely wish I'd just bought an old plane or a nicer new one. Lesson learned. Yeah there's a reason we give that advice, but everyone insists on getting bitten once regardless, including myself. My first plane was a garbage modern Stanley No 4. Never again. Anyway it's not a big deal. You rarely reference anything off the side of your bench planes. In hand tool working, shooting is not a very common operation. If the sole is flat enough, just get to using it already. You'll learn a whole lot with the plane you have, and you can buy a better plane next time.
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Nov 18, 2020 16:00
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Flea Bargain posted:Dang. Definitely wish I'd just bought an old plane or a nicer new one. Lesson learned. That's not even a guarantee either. My old bedrock 605 has one side that's just slightly out of square with the base, which I discovered while trying to shoot some boards and never getting a square end. But yeah, not a big deal. The bottom's flat, and iron is sharp. It works great for literally everything else.
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Nov 18, 2020 16:16
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Flea Bargain posted:Dang. Definitely wish I'd just bought an old plane or a nicer new one. Lesson learned. Everything ne fucks this one up at least once, so you're in good company. To be honest it should be in the thread title or the very start of the OP
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Nov 18, 2020 16:27
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more falafel please posted:How do y'all cut splines, and, maybe more specifically, spline stock? I made a pretty basic spline jig and cut some strips of maple to about as close to 1/8" as I could, just using push sticks to keep the piece up against the fence. I set up the jig to cut as close to the middle as I could, and made some test cuts. My spline stock wouldn't fit, so I tried nudging the rip fence over a hair and cutting the spline on both sides to center it. That ended up being too big, so I went back and forth over and over, eventually getting to a loose-ish friction fit that seemed like it would be tight once there was glue involved. Then I tried on my actual workpiece (a picture frame) and it cut way too loose of a slot. Ok, guess I have to make more spline stock. Cut a strip too thick, nudge the fence over just slightly to try to trim it off, still too thick, try again, too thin. Repeat a couple more times until I have a tight friction fit and just decide to sand the loving things down so I can glue it up and move on. Really ‘cut female, make male to fit’ or vice versa is a pretty good general rule.
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Nov 18, 2020 16:31
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I cut the groove first and then make the spline stock to fit. I rip it oversized and then run it through the planer to get to exact thickness. That involves creeping up on it-test the fit, plane a hair off, test the fit, etc. etc. My only bad table saw injury was trying to cut spline stock like you described-be very careful and use a push stick/riving knife! Yeah, in the future I should run it through the planer. I was trying to get the most out of scrap and use a ~6 inch long scrap piece, which I couldn't have run through the planer without a sled. Also I've had the planer for just over a week, so I need to get in the habit of thinking about it being there.
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Nov 18, 2020 18:31
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The planer is the most precise tool with the finest adjustment in my shop and so I try to do things that need very tight tolerances with it. Mine will go down to slightly less than 1/8” thick, but the 13” minimum length can be frustrating. I’m not sure I’d feel very comfortable running 6” stuff through the table saw either though.
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Nov 18, 2020 19:04
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The planer is the most precise tool with the finest adjustment in my shop and so I try to do things that need very tight tolerances with it. Mine will go down to slightly less than 1/8” thick, but the 13” minimum length can be frustrating. I’m not sure I’d feel very comfortable running 6” stuff through the table saw either though. I used a sacrificial push block on top of the piece with a hook on the back and another one pushing it against the fence. Since it was a short piece, I was able to keep the push block pressing on the entire piece. It honestly felt pretty safe, and the cuts were square and even, I just had trouble dialing in the thickness.
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Nov 18, 2020 20:32
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The planer is the most precise tool with the finest adjustment in my shop and so I try to do things that need very tight tolerances with it. Mine will go down to slightly less than 1/8” thick, but the 13” minimum length can be frustrating. I’m not sure I’d feel very comfortable running 6” stuff through the table saw either though. Can you stick your spline stock down to a much longer piece with double sided tape and run that through to get the thickness you want?
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Nov 19, 2020 00:47
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I think I'm going to need to build a new front door for my house soon, but I've never done any kind of millwork before. Might also rebuild some of my windows too. I've figured out the basics of 'glue up staves, skin with sawn 1/4" veneer, proceed as if it's a giant cabinet door', but not much beyond that. Anyone have any recommendations for books/resources on millwork basics/best practices/construction? I refer to this book whenever I build cabinets and would love to find the millwork equivalent. https://www.amazon.com/Building-Traditional-Kitchen-Cabinets-Completely/dp/1561587974Flea Bargain posted:Can you stick your spline stock down to a much longer piece with double sided tape and run that through to get the thickness you want?
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Nov 19, 2020 01:17
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I could use some directions on repairing the stain on this wood here. A local construction company was giving away piles of it so I don't know anything about the finish used. It's got scuffs in a few places but the pictures here are the worst of it. It's not scratched deeply, I can run my finger over it and not feel it. I can post more pictures if needed. Thanks!  
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Nov 19, 2020 19:09
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I spent a few hours chopping a hole into a piece of douglas fir over the weekend. It was not super easy to get the bottom of the hole flat, but it's close enough. 
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Nov 19, 2020 19:12
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Elder Postsman posted:I spent a few hours chopping a hole into a piece of douglas fir over the weekend. It was not super easy to get the bottom of the hole flat, but it's close enough. Nice! I am sure there is some extremely specialized 19th century hand plane that was designed for exactly this purpose
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Nov 19, 2020 19:40
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Rutibex posted:Nice! I am sure there is some extremely specialized 19th century hand plane that was designed for exactly this purpose A router plane with a long as gently caress bit?
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Nov 19, 2020 20:08
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Cannon_Fodder posted:A router plane with a long as gently caress bit? They’re called chisels.
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Nov 19, 2020 20:13
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Yeah, I just chopped at it for a while until it was mostly flat, then took a 1" chisel and sharpened a burr on the end, kinda like a card scraper, and scraped at the bottom for a while. I have two sets of harbor freight chisels exactly for loving around like this.
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Nov 19, 2020 20:18
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Swan neck chisels in particular.
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Nov 19, 2020 20:18
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Elder Postsman posted:Yeah, I just chopped at it for a while until it was mostly flat, then took a 1" chisel and sharpened a burr on the end, kinda like a card scraper, and scraped at the bottom for a while. I have two sets of harbor freight chisels exactly for loving around like this. I’ve done the same myself. Easier to manage if it’s a harder wood. Fir and pine are just so soft that I can’t get a flat bottom because it just wants to bend and tear the end grain. The inside bottom of a pencil holder doesn’t really need to be super flat though, so close and done is perfect in my book. I also like the look of that piece of fir you used. It looks really nice. I’m sure there‘s a power tool that would do it better, but that’s not the point when you’re just screwing around for the sake of making something.
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Nov 19, 2020 21:06
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My wife is not particularly interested in the machining/furniture making/etc side of woodworking, but has expressed interest in carving/whittling/etc. I have no particular interest in that so I haven't done much research, but I'm thinking about getting her a starter set of carving tools for Christmas. This one seems like a pretty good mix of tools, and I think it would be easy to add some spoon carving tools if that's the direction she wants to go in. Does that seem reasonable?
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Nov 19, 2020 21:44
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oh dope posted:I could use some directions on repairing the stain on this wood here. A local construction company was giving away piles of it so I don't know anything about the finish used. It's got scuffs in a few places but the pictures here are the worst of it. It's not scratched deeply, I can run my finger over it and not feel it. I can post more pictures if needed. Thanks! Could be lacquer, more likely polyurethane. Dab some danish oil or the like on a rag and work it into the scratched area, buff out. It's  Flea Bargain posted:Can you stick your spline stock down to a much longer piece with double sided tape and run that through to get the thickness you want? Yes, if you've removed all sawdust and other glue destroyers from the 2 pieces.
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Nov 19, 2020 21:51
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I would clamp slightly overthick spline stock into my vise and run a hand plane over it or even maybe just a card scraper to take off a couple thou at a time. Sometimes a power tool just isn't the right tool.
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Nov 19, 2020 22:05
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Cannon_Fodder posted:A router plane with a long as gently caress bit? I'd be worried about a hags tooth that long without extra support. I'd use one of those scrapers on a stick if I wanted it to be real smooth/level. Or an endmill. more falafel please posted:My wife is not particularly interested in the machining/furniture making/etc side of woodworking, but has expressed interest in carving/whittling/etc. I have no particular interest in that so I haven't done much research, but I'm thinking about getting her a starter set of carving tools for Christmas. This one seems like a pretty good mix of tools, and I think it would be easy to add some spoon carving tools if that's the direction she wants to go in. Does that seem reasonable? Does she want to carve in the round (this includes whittling) or relief carving (basically 3D pictures)? The most important thing you are going to need to get started is 1 good carving knife. It will be used for 90% of carving in the round and for making relief and stop cuts when doing relief carving. After that I would get a thumb protector (basically a leather thimble) and a cut proof glove for holding what you're carving and a strop to keep everything sharp. Then I would look at a basic gouge set. If you are doing a lot of relief carving, then you want to look into a clamping solution for holding your work piece. For whittling you could do something like https://www.rockler.com/flexcut-craft-carvers-set $50 https://www.rockler.com/flexcut-detail-knife $25 https://www.rockler.com/flexcut-slip-strop $20 https://www.rockler.com/thumb-and-finger-guards $5 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/safety-glove-medium-7-9 $20 and have a very complete set for small to medium work including spoons. Flexcut is fine but a bit overpriced. Very good for beginners and come honed and ready for carving out of the box. You'll still need to hone them as you go but you shouldn't need to take them to a sharpener for a bit.
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Nov 19, 2020 22:16
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more falafel please posted:My wife is not particularly interested in the machining/furniture making/etc side of woodworking, but has expressed interest in carving/whittling/etc. I have no particular interest in that so I haven't done much research, but I'm thinking about getting her a starter set of carving tools for Christmas. This one seems like a pretty good mix of tools, and I think it would be easy to add some spoon carving tools if that's the direction she wants to go in. Does that seem reasonable? Whatever you get her you should also throw in a $20 knock off Dremel. Very handy for any small carving project: https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/
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Nov 19, 2020 22:37
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The junk collector posted:I'd be worried about a hags tooth that long without extra support. I think she's more interested in carving in the round (she mentioned carving small birds and things), so this all seems good. I do have a set of diamond stones and a strop for planes/chisels, but the shaped strop for gouges/v-tools seems super useful. I might do https://www.rockler.com/premium-defense-cut-resistant-gloves-with-touchscreen-technology instead of the ones from woodcraft, just to save shipping, unless they're not as good. Rutibex posted:Whatever you get her you should also throw in a $20 knock off Dremel. Very handy for any small carving project: I actually have a name brand dremel that I basically never use, so I'll make sure I mention that.
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Nov 19, 2020 23:32
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Mr. Mambold posted:Could be lacquer, more likely polyurethane. Dab some danish oil or the like on a rag and work it into the scratched area, buff out. It's I'll give that a shot, thanks.
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Nov 20, 2020 00:11
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more falafel please posted:I think she's more interested in carving in the round (she mentioned carving small birds and things), so this all seems good. I do have a set of diamond stones and a strop for planes/chisels, but the shaped strop for gouges/v-tools seems super useful. I might do https://www.rockler.com/premium-defense-cut-resistant-gloves-with-touchscreen-technology instead of the ones from woodcraft, just to save shipping, unless they're not as good. The gloves from Rockler are probably fine, I just didn't see them on the site when I was looking in a hurry so I linked a different pair. Also pick up some Basswood(Lime or Linden in Europe) while you're at it. It's pretty cheap and basically the nicest carving wood you can get. A dremel is great if you want to carve oddball materials like peach pits, some hardwoods, rocks, etc. I don't enjoy it near as much as just using a knife though on account of it being loud and dusty.
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Nov 20, 2020 01:46
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Smaller sets of high quality tools > larger sets of low quality tools. https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/IL-PHSET.XX I'd check out the other stuff on that site in the carving section as well. I'm not a carver bit Pfiel, Ashley Isles, and Two Cherries (can be hit or miss) are all brands I'd look at to get an understanding of whats out there at the higher end, even if you don't start there. Spooncarving /Sloyd stuff is a different set of tools, just fyi
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Nov 20, 2020 21:40
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Dude on Craigslist was liquidating some gear that, I dunno, he bought for one single job or something So I snagged Bosch ra1171 router table Bosch 1617 router Bosch ra1954 router guide And a pretty bitchin chamfer bit he left in the router For a total of $90 I’m very happy with this Though still deciding if I want to build a stand or drop the top into an existing cabinet in my shop
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Nov 21, 2020 00:17
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Sockser posted:Dude on Craigslist was liquidating some gear that, I dunno, he bought for one single job or something You lucky duck. I really want a guide and table for my router.
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Nov 21, 2020 00:51
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OgreNoah posted:You lucky duck. I really want a guide and table for my router.   I am going to have to build the router table in a much more stable way than my work bench. I will still be using pallet wood, but I think I can make it work. It needs to be rock solid and I want to be able to move it around. I think I'm going to try some angled legs and joinery. It will be a learning experience!
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Nov 21, 2020 00:58
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more falafel please posted:I think she's more interested in carving in the round (she mentioned carving small birds and things), so this all seems good. I do have a set of diamond stones and a strop for planes/chisels, but the shaped strop for gouges/v-tools seems super useful. I might do https://www.rockler.com/premium-defense-cut-resistant-gloves-with-touchscreen-technology instead of the ones from woodcraft, just to save shipping, unless they're not as good. I have a mix of pfeil, Ashley Iles, and antique carving tools and largely prefer the pfeil ones. They come razor sharp (ashley iles are pretty sharp, but need buffing/honing) which makes getting started easier and I like the octagonal handles so stuff doesn't roll away. Trying to carve with dull tools will discourage you in a hurry. I got this little set on big sale one year and it is a really good set with all the right tools: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/pfeil-swiss-made-palm-handled-carving-tool-set-12-piece I don't know exactly what she wants to carve- straight european carving tools like that are great for classical relief carving, but if you start getting really 3D or carving in the round, you start needing a bunch of backbent stuff. I don't know much about whittling/spoon carving, but normal relief carving tools probably aren't great for it. They definitely want the work held firmly down to leave 2 hands for the tool-one to push forward and one to pull backwards. And if both hands are on the tool, it's alot harder to slice your hands open. Carving tools should be sharp enough that when you cut yourself, it doesn't hurt and it takes about 10 seconds to start bleeding.
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Nov 21, 2020 01:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you have a bench grinder, a buffing wheel is the best things for keeping carving tools scary sharp (and they need to be scary sharp). The green buffing compound tools for working wood sells (feibings?) leaves a mirror finish and very sharp edge. I don't think I've ever put a stone to most of my tools, just buff buff buff. If you don't have a grinder or don't want to gently caress around changing a grinding wheel, Harbor freights makes a perfectly good buffer for pretty cheap. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers-buffers/6-in-buffer-61557.html Maybe a buffing wheel in the dremel would work? I don't have a bench grinder (yet, I don't have a lathe yet either). I have a strop for chisels and plane blades and use a green compound on it, I'm not sure what the make is though. I did buy some Flexcut tools and the strop that's shaped to sharpen gouges and v-tools, so hopefully that'll do pretty good. So far we're in for like $100, which is fine even if it doesn't catch. Neither of us really care about secrets as far as gifts go, so I've been talking to her about it.
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Nov 21, 2020 06:11
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Rutibex posted:
Freud's adjustable cabinet bits don't fit in those (tongue bit) and you have to run them through with a spacer under the workpiece.
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Nov 21, 2020 19:11
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kitchen smells like beans again bean cuttin' dat oak
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Nov 21, 2020 21:02
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I want to frame some prints. I have wood I want to use, all the tools I need to turn it into frames, and generally the ability to do that. However, I have no idea how to frame things well. Like, the stackup of transparent thing and matboard (?) and art and backer board (?) and those little clips to hold it all in and stuff? I'm having a hell of a time learning about those bits. Everything I search for just gives me framing shops or like diy network garbage. Idk if this is really woodworking but we don't seem to have a better fitting thread and I'm at least approaching it as a woodworker
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Nov 22, 2020 07:05
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Bloody posted:I want to frame some prints. I have wood I want to use, all the tools I need to turn it into frames, and generally the ability to do that. However, I have no idea how to frame things well. Like, the stackup of transparent thing and matboard (?) and art and backer board (?) and those little clips to hold it all in and stuff? I'm having a hell of a time learning about those bits. Everything I search for just gives me framing shops or like diy network garbage. Personally, I use (front to back) acrylic, art/photo, hardboard (1/8" or 1/4" is fine if your rabbet is deep enough). Acrylic can be cut with woodworking tools. I'll use glass if it's a standard size, but I've never cut it before. Then I hold it in with glazing points, pushed in with a putty knife/painter's tool. If you're worried about dust, you can also cover the back with some paper.
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Nov 22, 2020 07:22
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Bloody posted:I want to frame some prints. I have wood I want to use, all the tools I need to turn it into frames, and generally the ability to do that. However, I have no idea how to frame things well. Like, the stackup of transparent thing and matboard (?) and art and backer board (?) and those little clips to hold it all in and stuff? I'm having a hell of a time learning about those bits. Everything I search for just gives me framing shops or like diy network garbage. Matting is pretty straightforward and you typically cut it with a matting cutter that is just a razor blade held at 45 degrees to give a nice beveled edge. If you have a clamping straight edge and some marking gauges for for circular sawing you are set for matting. Lots of different clips you can buy to hold the backing together and a few options for how to hang it. But yea Frame->Acrylic/Glass->Matting->Picture->Backer->Clips+hangers can be modified depending on the type of picture you are hanging. Get all the dust out before you close it up.
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Nov 22, 2020 08:04
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