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Pr0kjayhawk posted:Interesting... I guess I'll need to research the refundable security deposits for a lease? Maybe. Again, that's completely dependent on the deal you can get financing versus the deal you can get leasing.
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Nov 21, 2015 13:52
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:Interesting... I guess I'll need to research the refundable security deposits for a lease? Generally you want to put as little money down on a lease as possible since if the car is totaled or stolen you are out that money, so you can just have them cut you a check for the trade in value. Or, like you said, apply it towards the price of the new vehicle and finance the difference. It just depends on what the terms are though.
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Nov 21, 2015 13:57
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Go familiarize yourself with leasing here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=20 ....and no you don't want to "trade" in your existing car towards a lease, you should sell any existing car yourself and hopefully to an eager neckbearded goon. The MSD's basically drop down the moneyfactor and you get those deposits back or you can just move them over to your new car when the lease pops on the old one. It's how they keep people in a constant 3 year cycle of 5-7 series. At most you'll just pay for the tax/registration/various fees at signing but no "down payment" under the guise of a "cap cost reduction". the main variables are: MSRP @ 92% = cost (usually can always get 7-8% off msrp, there are also other incentives like prior purchaser/olympics/etc) M's won't get a huge drop from msrp though. Money Factor: interest rate (dealers can gently caress with it up to .004 but you can always ask for lower - but you need to know the baseline) residual = how much car is worth after 3 years (higher is better) Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Nov 21, 2015 |
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Nov 21, 2015 17:11
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I wonder what the catch is: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5291082602.html
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Nov 21, 2015 18:31
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blk posted:I wonder what the catch is: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5291082602.html SES for Secondary Air is the catch. If it's blocked (common problem) the heads have to come off for it to be cleaned. It's a many thousand dollar job. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/128129-secondary-air-system-carbon-build-up-removal-pictures.html
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Nov 21, 2015 18:57
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Too many red flags imo
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Nov 21, 2015 21:36
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Brock Landers posted:SES for Secondary Air is the catch. If it's blocked (common problem) the heads have to come off for it to be cleaned. It's a many thousand dollar job. Also I agree, if you're looking for an e39 M5 it's best to get one that's been kept up, with records, like most BMWs. It'll cost more, but you'll be into that $12k car for $18-20k after you do all the work it needs.
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Nov 21, 2015 23:18
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That thread says that getting secondary air cleaned doesn't matter as it only affects cold start emissions. Though those pictures look terrible. Makes me want to take my car out and really wring out the revs so it hopefully doesn't get that dirty.
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Nov 21, 2015 23:44
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Cojawfee posted:That thread says that getting secondary air cleaned doesn't matter as it only affects cold start emissions. Though those pictures look terrible. Makes me want to take my car out and really wring out the revs so it hopefully doesn't get that dirty. It doesn't matter from a driveability standpoint but you won't pass emissions, if that's important where you live.
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Nov 22, 2015 00:16
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So... Pre or post facelift e30? I am not a fan of the big bumpers, but they can be tucked and the lower rear wheel arch on the facelift cars bugs me about the same amount, and is more expensive to fix. There's also about a $2k premium on facelift cars. I'm going to be parting out the e36 m3 in a couple weeks and want to build a sweet e30.
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Nov 22, 2015 03:04
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POST. POST.
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Nov 22, 2015 03:23
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Looks like BMW isn't interested in sporty cars any more. The new BMW concept sedan looks like a new Sonata. Wheeeee more boring cars 
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Nov 22, 2015 15:42
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Looks like BMW isn't interested in sporty cars any more. The new BMW concept sedan looks like a new Sonata. Ever since they started making cars with F in the chassis code, they've been making boring cars. Dead electric steering, fake recorded engine sounds and chintzy interiors. E82 and E89 was the last time they made a car that looks good aside from the i8. Early-mid 2000s was the last time their entire range looked decent.
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Nov 22, 2015 16:16
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Brock Landers posted:SES for Secondary Air is the catch. If it's blocked (common problem) the heads have to come off for it to be cleaned. It's a many thousand dollar job. I dunno, even paying asking price for that car, once you throw that in, it's still not a bad deal. I'd stay away from it 'cause who the gently caress dyes the seats?
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Nov 22, 2015 19:51
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Actually looking at the ad, I wouldn't get that. Secondary air pump or something that he didn't get fixed because it still drives fine. That means he doesn't really know what the issue is and hasn't looked into it because the car still drives. Who knows what else is needed on that car that he hasn't mentioned because it still works fine.
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Nov 22, 2015 20:05
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blk posted:I wonder what the catch is: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5291082602.html mafoose posted:Pre or post facelift e30?
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Nov 22, 2015 21:21
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Bavarian Mouse Works?
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Nov 22, 2015 21:38
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NitroSpazzz posted:Post would be my pick and is what I'm looking for for my build next winter. What's the plan for your project? A fun, fast, "dailyable" car. I'm basically going to be playing musical parts. S50 and M3 trans into the e30 with the M3 LSD guts in the e28 diff (3.15 like e36 M3). M3 rack in e30, m3 brakes on e24, e30 LSD 3.73 in e28, finish parting m3, squish it, and buy Porsche 944 (have a line on a nice runner for very cheap). Run the forged Volk GR-Cs on e30 until I do a 5 lug swap (still reading up on that), and I should have a spare e32 750iL brake master and calipers for the eventual 5 lug swap. Net gain 0 cars = happy wife. Fast daily = happy me. Or at least that's the plan so far. My C101 17pin connector parts should be here Tuesday and that's all that is left to do on the e24's MS install. Then garage will be free to start tearing apart the e36 M3.
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Nov 22, 2015 23:46
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mafoose posted:A fun, fast, "dailyable" car. Nice, musical cars is always fun. S50 E30 would make a great fast daily driver. I'm finally going to do a full on track/race car build, not sure if I'll build to a series or just be the rear end in a top hat that shows up to track days and HPDE's with a race car. I'm still trying to narrow down what engine is going to power it.
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Nov 23, 2015 00:54
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Having a weird issue, gonna get it towed into the mechanic tomorrow I guess. I have a 2003 330 convertible, and when I tried to drive it out of my garage tonight the car started shaking like the engine only had power in like half second intervals, and the service engine soon light came on so I just turned the car off and parked it. I haven't left it on longer to see if it would like go away or get worse or whatever, seemed like something I should just not drive probably? Any idea what this could be? The car drove fine yesterday, the only thing happened was I got it detailed this morning but I can't imagine how like getting it washed and the interior done and all could affect anything mechanical at all so I assume it's a coincidence.
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Nov 24, 2015 00:47
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Stefan Prodan posted:Having a weird issue, gonna get it towed into the mechanic tomorrow I guess. Did they clean the engine bay? Possible they got something wet that shouldn't have been and it's causing it to misfire.
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Nov 24, 2015 01:05
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I don't think they did the engine bay but I'm not sure. If they did, is that something that will go away on its own once stuff evaporates or could something have been damaged? Also, assuming it's that or like a bad coil or something, is it safe to drive to the shop (10 miles away or so)? Are there any sort of like symptoms that could develop that would mean I should pull over and get it towed instead? Edit: Went and looked, engine still has plenty of dust and poo poo on it so pretty sure that he didn't do anything under the hood Stefan Prodan fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Nov 24, 2015 |
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Nov 24, 2015 01:08
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Guys I really like E30's but I am terrible at cars so I don't know if a nice one is in my prive range of sub 10K or if it is in that price range if I am being stupid and only going to be disappointed in the amount of work I will have to put into such a used old car. Basically I want to know if I am being silly for my admiration for this car like the time I really wanted an Honda civic EK9
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Nov 24, 2015 07:09
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Herr Tog posted:Guys I really like E30's but I am terrible at cars so I don't know if a nice one is in my prive range of sub 10K or if it is in that price range if I am being stupid and only going to be disappointed in the amount of work I will have to put into such a used old car. The newest e30 produced is almost 25yrs old at this point. No matter how nice of one you can afford, it will likely need to be worked on at one point or another. NitroSpazzz posted:Nice, musical cars is always fun. S50 E30 would make a great fast daily driver. I'm finally going to do a full on track/race car build, not sure if I'll build to a series or just be the rear end in a top hat that shows up to track days and HPDE's with a race car. I'm still trying to narrow down what engine is going to power it. If you're going to be an rear end in a top hat, LS swap it  What does that race BMW you drive have for an engine? If it was something to go racing with cheaply, why not a stroker? I've ridden in some high comp eta strokers that were a blast on the track. A 24v swap with a little work would be even better I think.
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Nov 24, 2015 07:27
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mafoose posted:The newest e30 produced is almost 25yrs old at this point. No matter how nice of one you can afford, it will likely need to be worked on at one point or another. Thanks! I'll shelve it until I have more time and money somehow.
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Nov 24, 2015 07:38
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Herr Tog posted:Thanks! I'll shelve it until I have more time and money somehow. mafoose posted:If you're going to be an rear end in a top hat, LS swap it LS is kind of tempting but the best handling E30's I've driven have all been four cylinder powered so that's the route I'm planning. Build will be based around making the car as light as possible, 2200lb ready to race is absolute maximum. The WRL prepped E30's running M20's are coming in at 2205-2300 with ours being a fat pig at 2450 so <2200 should be easy. Biggest decision now is how much hp I'm going to shoot for but I'd like to see 10:1 or better
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Nov 24, 2015 14:13
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My '00 528i has a problem with intermittent battery drain (or just battery drain, it's unclear). I took it to an indie shop, they turned it around in a few days and charged me $500 for some vague dash wiring problem and blamed it something getting fried from being jumped wrong. I drove it every day for the next five days till I woke up to a dead battery again. Like, completely dead - locks didn't work, dash didn't even try to light up. So I had them take it back and I haven't heard anything in a week, so I gave them a call. I asked if the battery was shot, they said it was 'weak' but didn't warrant replacing (though it was weak enough that I could get it replaced under warranty? it's a Walmart battery, like two years old, wouldn't be surprised if it's worn just from going dead so many times). I asked about the alternator, they said it was 'weak' too but didn't warrant replacing either. And I asked specifically what they charged me for before, it had something to do with the Audiovox module I've had installed in the car for years, again not a lot of specifics. Getting a strong feeling I'm getting taken for a ride. It's frustrating, I really need the car back by tomorrow and from Thanksgiving till the end of the year it's gotta be on the road, I'm going to be making regular trips in and out of the city and one big road trip along the east coast all the way down to Florida.
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Nov 24, 2015 14:20
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NOTinuyasha posted:Getting a strong feeling I'm getting taken for a ride. It's frustrating, I really need the car back by tomorrow and from Thanksgiving till the end of the year it's gotta be on the road, I'm going to be making regular trips in and out of the city and one big road trip along the east coast all the way down to Florida. Sounds like that shop might be one to avoid. Head to your local advance/pepboys/oreily/etc and have them do a battery and alternator test. They'll be able to tell you if there's an issue with either then you can decide what to do from there. Otherwise if you have a multimeter and a friend you can do a basic test yourself.
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Nov 24, 2015 14:45
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NitroSpazzz posted:LS is kind of tempting but the best handling E30's I've driven have all been four cylinder powered so that's the route I'm planning. Build will be based around making the car as light as possible, 2200lb ready to race is absolute maximum. The WRL prepped E30's running M20's are coming in at 2205-2300 with ours being a fat pig at 2450 so <2200 should be easy. Biggest decision now is how much hp I'm going to shoot for but I'd like to see 10:1 or better I know this is not a popular opinion here, but I personally think the BMW 4 cylinder is an over complicated, relatively weak lump. If you're going for a high power light weight 4 cylinder, consider an F22 out of an S2000. NOTinuyasha posted:My '00 528i has a problem with intermittent battery drain (or just battery drain, it's unclear). I took it to an indie shop, they turned it around in a few days and charged me $500 for some vague dash wiring problem and blamed it something getting fried from being jumped wrong. I drove it every day for the next five days till I woke up to a dead battery again. Like, completely dead - locks didn't work, dash didn't even try to light up. Check the trunk wiring. It's a common issue on e39s. The wiring on the trunk lid or hinge will deteriorate and short out intermittently causing a drain.
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Nov 24, 2015 19:26
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mafoose posted:I know this is not a popular opinion here, but I personally think the BMW 4 cylinder is an over complicated, relatively weak lump. Yeah BMW 4 pots were never that great outside of a select few. Oh and for Honda s2000 engines It's either the F20A, or the F22C1. The latter doesn't rev as high, 9k redline on that first one, so is that much less cool. Also what can be considered: a Honda K engine, which probably are much easier to find, though they arent 240bhp NA sooooo yeeah, at best turbocharged and ~200-220, but they're all-aluminium so light as hell. And they're cheap as hell (relatively).
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Nov 24, 2015 20:04
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Haha so I showed up this morning and the owner's son is going on about how he turned it into his personal project, been driving it every day, can't replicate, drove it in today, and halfway through his 'I'm sorry we can't replicate it, we believe you but...' speech we go to start it... and it's dead. And it was just running an hour ago. Maybe they did fix the battery drain, but the battery got super hosed from getting drained repeatedly over the last few weeks? But they failed to notice somehow? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ They dropped in a new battery at no cost and it started. They're gonna run some additional tests and I'll pick it up tomorrow. If it continues to have issues, I can bring it back, and they'll keep working on it at no charge. I'll return the old battery under warranty and leave the new one in the back so I don't get stranded again. And check for abnormal battery drain myself when I park. Best I can do.
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Nov 24, 2015 20:14
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Rigged Death Trap posted:Yeah BMW 4 pots were never that great outside of a select few. Don't most of the K-swaps require some sort of frankenmotor to make it worth the effort? I really want about 200-220whp from a nonturbo four for my 318iS whenever the motor finally gives up the ghost.
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Nov 24, 2015 20:32
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By the time you come up with everything to make a K series RWD, wouldn't it be worth starting out with the F? Also I have it in good authority (big Honda shop owner/tuner in socal) that the F22c is better in every way to the F20c, even with it's slightly lower redline.
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Nov 24, 2015 20:49
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Well I said less cool, not lesser in any other way.  Also yeah Ks are FWD how did I forget. Rigged Death Trap fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Nov 24, 2015 |
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Nov 24, 2015 20:54
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K series motors are RWD swappable, for sure! kmiata.com
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Nov 24, 2015 21:22
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mafoose posted:I know this is not a popular opinion here, but I personally think the BMW 4 cylinder is an over complicated, relatively weak lump. S2k engine is an option but the leading candidate at the moment is a s14 
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Nov 24, 2015 22:42
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NitroSpazzz posted:S2k engine is an option but the leading candidate at the moment is a s14  I'll just shut up now.
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Nov 25, 2015 04:10
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So, it turns out if you work on your lovely project truck long enough, your DD will eventually need attention. I'm looking to do a mild suspension refresh on my '01 540i/6. I already did Thrust arms and front sway links. I took it to a dealer to get them to give it a full inspection and get a nice "to-do" list, and they gave me quite a few things to work on. First: "Ball joints have play (Tie rods)"- Should I replace the center link ( #9 on this image) as well, as that has two ball joints in it as well? Or is it only the outer tie rods that wear out. Also, as I have to do an alignment after, should I replace #12 on this image, even though they don't mention it? Second: Most of the rear needs to be replaced #2 ball-joints, #4 integral link and #18 upper control arm, but they make no mention of #14, nor does it seem to be included in most kits. Does that one not really wear as much? It will shock you I'm sure, but I just so happen to need new rear tires too.... Also, dealers are amazing, $420 to replace both belts!
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Nov 25, 2015 04:47
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mafoose posted:
The S2K engine is really tempting though since they're cheap, easy available and have plenty of aftermarket support. They're heavier though at around 330lb, which is same weight class as the aluminum m50 engines which have more torque everywhere. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Nov 25, 2015 |
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Nov 25, 2015 13:49
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mafoose posted:By the time you come up with everything to make a K series RWD, wouldn't it be worth starting out with the F? Also I have it in good authority (big Honda shop owner/tuner in socal) that the F22c is better in every way to the F20c, even with it's slightly lower redline. Not especially, and the F series have FRM cylinder liners that can be a pain when they wear out. The K series respond very well to bolt ons, but both are pretty FI friendly. You'll need an adapter plate and a different flywheel from what I remember to make them work, and of course mounts. http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-1010-k24-into-s2000-chassis-swap/ Whoops, need a custom intake manifold, did forget about that. So yea, out of box the F2x/tranny combo would be easier.
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Nov 25, 2015 14:17
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