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Temaukel
Mar 28, 2010

by Nyc_Tattoo

ItBreathes posted:

Probably not. When going with an APU (or pretty much always) you want to get two sticks of RAM (2x8) so it can run in dual channel mode.
Thank you, I'll correct this.

ItBreathes posted:

Under full load your system will draw under 200w so a 650w PSU will be way overkill. They're most efficient at around 50% load and even 80+ platinum PSUs can be horrifically inefficient under 20% load. It's hard to find low wattage PSUs with a decent warranty but I'd try not to go over 450w.

Sadly, they have listed this 520W Seasonic 80+ as the lowest: https://www.pcfactory.cl/producto/31067-seasonic-fuente-de-poder-520w-80-bronze

Temaukel fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Aug 1, 2019

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Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




Scruff McGruff posted:

Like someone else mentioned, if you're doing a new rig just re-purpose the 2500k to a dedicated NAS/Plex box.
What a wonderful idea, thank you for it. I already have a NAS in a very nice small N54l and use docker for everything, but Plex can't really transcode at all, and I'm probably going to do just this now.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Temaukel posted:

Sadly, they have listed this 520W Seasonic 80+ as the lowest: https://www.pcfactory.cl/producto/31067-seasonic-fuente-de-poder-520w-80-bronze

The Seasonic will be fine - there usually isn't much of a difference (if any) in efficiency at low power until you're comparing something like a 150W to a 1500W PSU.

Temaukel
Mar 28, 2010

by Nyc_Tattoo

Stickman posted:

AM4 motherboards like the B450 are compatible with 1st - 3rd gen Ryzen CPUs, and possibly the upcoming 4th gen as well. If you think you might want to upgrade this PC at some point in the future, I'd consider spending an extra $20 for an [/url]MSI B450 Gaming Plus[/url]. The B450M-A is very bottom-of-the-barrel and would be marginal for any CPU that draws more power than a 2600.

These are my other options:

Asus® M/B AMD TUF B450M - PLUS GAMING (AM4) (~142 dollars)
Gigabyte® M/B AMD B450 Aorus Pro WI-FI (~167 dollars)
Asus® M/B AMD Rog Strix B450-F Gaming (AM4) (~173 dollars)

Stickman posted:

On the "reducing cost" side, I'm not sure if there's workstation surplus available in Chile, but the cheapest way to build an entry-level gaming PC in the US is to buy a refurbished Dell Optiplex with a 4th-gen Intel i5 or better and throw in a low-power 1050 Ti and an SSD. Usually it comes out to $250-350.
Sadly I don't think there's a service of this kind here.
Thanks again for all the help!

Temaukel fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Aug 1, 2019

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Temaukel posted:

These are my other options:

Asus® M/B AMD TUF B450M - PLUS GAMING (AM4) (~142 dollars)
Gigabyte® M/B AMD B450 Aorus Pro WI-FI (~167 dollars)
Asus® M/B AMD Rog Strix B450-F Gaming (AM4) (~173 dollars)

Whoops! Managed to completely whiff the link :/

https://www.wei.cl/producto/5D405067A6

Winifred Madgers
Feb 12, 2002

Got the parts in, put them together, and It Just Works. This thing is way smaller than I was even hoping for when I began. I love it! Thanks again everyone!

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Lazyhound
Mar 1, 2004

A squid eating dough in a polyethylene bag is fast and bulbous—got me?

Son of Sam-I-Am posted:

Got the parts in, put them together, and It Just Works. This thing is way smaller than I was even hoping for when I began. I love it! Thanks again everyone!



That's pretty tiny. It also made me realize my video card didn't come with a case badge.

How loud is it under load?

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Son of Sam-I-Am posted:

Got the parts in, put them together, and It Just Works. This thing is way smaller than I was even hoping for when I began. I love it! Thanks again everyone!



Oh man, that's super cool. Makes me wish I had a use for a light gaming htpc!

Winifred Madgers
Feb 12, 2002

Lazyhound posted:

That's pretty tiny. It also made me realize my video card didn't come with a case badge.

How loud is it under load?

I haven't put it under any load yet, I realized as I was putting it together that my Windows 10 install media was 3 years old, so I downloaded the newest version, but by the time it finished it was quite late. So I only went through post, although I was able to set the XMP for correct memory speeds. I'll try to report back again. But don't hope for much, my wife keeps telling me I need to get my hearing checked, haha.

e: it was surprisingly easy to work with, too, for such a small case. The most trouble I had was connecting the antenna leads to the M.2 wifi card, just because they were so tiny. But the rest was a piece of cake.

Winifred Madgers fucked around with this message at 13:01 on Aug 1, 2019

El_Elegante
Jul 3, 2004

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Biscuit Hider
If I’m planning to build a new gaming PC 12-24 months from now, is there some kind of hardware component (graphics card, cpu) on the horizon that I should wait for?

I would like to upgrade to a 4K monitor, but what I have now is capable of 1080p. I have no plans to upgrade the PC once it’s built for five years (probably longer).

Ak Gara
Jul 29, 2005

That's just the way he rolls.
So this is kinda what I'm thinking.


My question is, if the SATA connectors are limited to 5ish amps, is that for each individual sata connector on the 6 pin to 4 sata power connector cable? (theoretical 20 amps on a PCIE 6 pin)

[edit] PCIE 6 pin is 12 volt right? 12v * 20a would be 240 watts. Don't 6 pins only draw 75 watts? That would mean 6.25 amps for the entire cable?

Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Aug 1, 2019

dele
Aug 5, 2007
rium
I don't post a lot ever, HeyGuys

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kw7hnH

USA
Gaming (mmo, fps)
Screen: at work so I don't remember, it's probably 1680×1050 or the other one, 1440x900. But subject to change (buy a better monitor in future?)

Edit: these parts clock in at $1250, within the $1k-$1.5k I expected when picking parts
Graphics: mmos tend to struggle when there's lots of players in one spot, I'd like my games to look at least pretty good but run well under stress

Already owned (transferring over):
Corsair K55 RGB gaming kb
Logitech daedalus mouse
Sata and external storage drives

Thanks very much for checking it out. I plan to buy & build soon :)

dele fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Aug 1, 2019

Flip Yr Wig
Feb 21, 2007

Oh please do go on
Fun Shoe
So I've got most of the parts in for this now, just waiting on the RAM to arrive. Right now, my question is whether I need to add any front fans and if high ambient temperature is a factor in that question. My apartment gets pretty hot, even with the AC running.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/NcBjP3

Any other comments are probably useful too, though at this point I'd need to start shipping things back.

Edit:
Threw some cheesy RGBs in there.

Flip Yr Wig fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Aug 1, 2019

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

dele posted:

I don't post a lot ever, HeyGuys

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kw7hnH

Screen: at work so I don't remember, it's probably 1680×1050 or the other one, 1440x900. But subject to change (buy a better monitor in future?)

Number one priority is your monitor. Do not buy a computer without upgrading it. Absolutely nobody should be running sub-1080p resolutions in tyool 2019.

8600k is soundly beaten at a lower price by AMD's 3600, which comes with a decent cooler already. Use those savings to buy a monitor.

Ak Gara
Jul 29, 2005

That's just the way he rolls.
[edit] ^^ that too

dele posted:

I don't post a lot ever, HeyGuys

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kw7hnH

USA
Gaming (mmo, fps)
Screen: at work so I don't remember, it's probably 1680×1050 or the other one, 1440x900. But subject to change (buy a better monitor in future?)

Edit: these parts clock in at $1250, within the $1k-$1.5k I expected when picking parts
Graphics: mmos tend to struggle when there's lots of players in one spot, I'd like my games to look at least pretty good but run well under stress

Already owned (transferring over):
Corsair K55 RGB gaming kb
Logitech daedalus mouse
Sata and external storage drives

Thanks very much for checking it out. I plan to buy & build soon :)

Isn't a 9600k cheaper than a 8600k? (Probably have to use a Z390 too I think?)

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Flip Yr Wig posted:

So I've got most of the parts in for this now, just waiting on the RAM to arrive. Right now, my question is whether I need to add any front fans and if high ambient temperature is a factor in that question. My apartment gets pretty hot, even with the AC running.

You can get a couple 120mm fans for like :10bux:, just do it.

Thom P. Tiers
May 29, 2008

Red Birds
Red Ass
Red Text

dele posted:

I don't post a lot ever, HeyGuys

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kw7hnH

USA
Gaming (mmo, fps)
Screen: at work so I don't remember, it's probably 1680×1050 or the other one, 1440x900. But subject to change (buy a better monitor in future?)

Edit: these parts clock in at $1250, within the $1k-$1.5k I expected when picking parts
Graphics: mmos tend to struggle when there's lots of players in one spot, I'd like my games to look at least pretty good but run well under stress

Already owned (transferring over):
Corsair K55 RGB gaming kb
Logitech daedalus mouse
Sata and external storage drives

Thanks very much for checking it out. I plan to buy & build soon :)



PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.00 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Asus Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($154.72 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB STRIX GAMING OC Video Card ($419.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($70.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1,072.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-01 11:00 EDT-0400

This is what I would do. And absolutely buy a 1080p monitor. You can get a 24" IPS panel for like $200.

I only changed your case because that's a full tower and full towers are absolutely enormous. Even the one I picked out is still a pretty large case these days.

You could also probably save $50 on the motherboard, I picked out a bit of an expensive one.

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

Don't buy a $400 graphics card for 1080p

Thom P. Tiers
May 29, 2008

Red Birds
Red Ass
Red Text
^You make a good point. You could save on the GPU and motherboard and then buy yourself a nice new monitor and probably still be around $1200 grand total.

dele
Aug 5, 2007
rium
Help me stoke my fears:

I picked Intel because I trust the brand and the OP indicated it was better. True, not true?

Yes, the 9600k was priced lower than the 8600k, but when I tried to price a good motherboard for it the savings were lost

Okay, it's time for a monitor. Seems like I should definitely get one with the extra money I save buying AMD. I didn't realize I was so far behind

I really appreciate this thread. I could not have done this without you guys

Thom P. Tiers
May 29, 2008

Red Birds
Red Ass
Red Text

dele posted:

Help me stoke my fears:

I picked Intel because I trust the brand and the OP indicated it was better. True, not true?

Yes, the 9600k was priced lower than the 8600k, but when I tried to price a good motherboard for it the savings were lost

Okay, it's time for a monitor. Seems like I should definitely get one with the extra money I save buying AMD. I didn't realize I was so far behind

I really appreciate this thread. I could not have done this without you guys

CPU: AMD just released some very good chips. Intel has been the way to go, for sure, for the last 10 years. That isn't entirely true anymore and AMD makes a perfectly fine (in some cases better!) chip these days. The OP is a bit outdated unfortunately.

Definitely buy yourself a nice 1080p IPS panel. You will love it.

As for dropping down the GPU... I totally agree the 2070 is overkill for 1080p... The 5700 exists, but the aftermarket coolers aren't out yet and the blower coolers are trash. The regular 2060 also exists, but the 5700 is better and for the same price once aftermarket coolers come out...

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Thom P. Tiers posted:

CPU: AMD just released some very good chips. Intel has been the way to go, for sure, for the last 10 years. That isn't entirely true anymore and AMD makes a perfectly fine (in some cases better!) chip these days. The OP is a bit outdated unfortunately.

Intel is beaten nearly across the board this generation. I'm honestly trying to think of scenarios where they're competitive. The 9700k is still the choice if you only game, have lots of cash and play at low resolutions. Some Adobe stuff is still bound by single thread performance, so extremely heavy Photoshop, Lightroom and Illustrator users should go intel. And... uh... yeah that's all I got.

Broose
Oct 28, 2007
Okay, so after looking through stuff and re-thinking what I wanted I've come up with this:

For gaming on a 1440p 144Hz monitor, with a second for chat and stuff.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($329.00 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI X570-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($159.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 660p Series 2.048 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($179.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card ($614.93 @ Amazon)
Case: be quiet! Pure Base 600 ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.90 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($105.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140 mm Fan ($21.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $1827.27 (Probably closer to $1,900 since I'm buying from only newegg and amazon only.)
Whole thing, windows and an extra case fan for more flow, leaving out small stuff like some paste for the cooler.

I'm still having second thoughts about buying a 3700x or even 3600 over a 9700k. I can't decide. Do I get a 3700x over a 3600 for the future when games start coming out using more cores and threads because of consoles? God forbid, what if I start streaming stuff? Do I pick Intel for the better frequency? Does it really matter as long as I got a nice video card? What I'm looking for is an experience where my screen doesn't seem to dip into low frame rates for split seconds and everything kinda appears "janky." My goal is playing a game that looks as smooth as a soap opera on TV. (Which I've never experienced and wonder if it is just some video trickery that makes videos of gameplay appear so.)

Also is this 650w power supply enough? I do plan to overclock the ram and cpu.
Also I'm having a difficult time trying to find a nice ssd. I want to try out NVMe. Is there a way to tell if a motherboard is using NVMe or SATA for its M.2 slots? Most don't say in their advertising or specifications beyond that they have M.2. I hear these intel 660p have troubles when saturated, but that probably won't come up if I'm just playing games, or at most backing up games.

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

WhiskeyJuvenile posted:

I just don't get water cooling at sub-250W or like an extremely small case situation

orange juche posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSddZUS26Ak

For the guy who bought an NZXT M22 AIO, it's just not good.

Tech Jesus straight making GBS threads on it, the only use case for it is "Guy who wants a 120, and wants RGB LED lights, if you are fine without RGB lights, skip this"

That use case isn't even valid anymore because there are other, better RGB LED AIOs that are in 120mm form factor since they released that review.

It's pretty. I don't overclock. According to the internet I should have been fine with the stock cooler. But I wanted that infinity mirror because it reminds me of a nuclear reactor pool. It looks really nice in the dark. I looked at the benchmarks before ordering. The M22 was comparable with good air coolers, which already should be overkill for me. Something just isn't adding up.



Dr. Fishopolis posted:

Give them another twist or two, and make sure all the screws are torqued evenly in a cross pattern. What are your temps under load?

I don't dare twisting it any further. I'd really have to apply a stronger force than I've ever put on a cooler. The springs were already squeaking. Do the springs prevent me from breaking the CPU if I overtighten?

Temps are 48 to 60 degrees idle. CPU burn 78-84 (Celsius). Room temperatures is in the high 20s. GPU is in the high 30s. So at idle, the CPU is 20-30 degrees hotter than the GPU. That seems only marginally better than the stock cooler, so I'm wondering whether it works correctly.




Stickman posted:

Unfortunately, the best thing you can do to smooth out the radiator fans is to tie their fan curve to the liquid temperature rather than the CPU temperature. Since they're directly cooling the liquid, it's the most physically sensible option, too - ramping up and down on the CPU temperature doesn't actually do anything to directly affect the CPU's cooling efficiency. I say "unfortunately" because it looks like the M22 doesn't have a liquid temperature monitor :( Outside of that you could try increasing the step up/down time until it no longer responds to the transient boosts.

Honestly I don't mind the kind of unsteady fan behavior. That part can be smoothed out. I also don't mind that the cooler isn't a good water cooler; according to the benchmarks, it should be comparable to a decent water cooler and thus good enough by far.

What I do mind are the high temperatures. At near-idle, the CPU is 48-60 degrees 20 degrees hotter than the GPU, 30-40 degrees over ambient. Under load it can go into the 80s.

Any way to tell whether the thing is working as intended?

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Broose posted:

I'm still having second thoughts about buying a 3700x or even 3600 over a 9700k. I can't decide. Do I get a 3700x over a 3600 for the future when games start coming out using more cores and threads because of consoles? God forbid, what if I start streaming stuff? Do I pick Intel for the better frequency? Does it really matter as long as I got a nice video card? What I'm looking for is an experience where my screen doesn't seem to dip into low frame rates for split seconds and everything kinda appears "janky." My goal is playing a game that looks as smooth as a soap opera on TV. (Which I've never experienced and wonder if it is just some video trickery that makes videos of gameplay appear so.)

Also is this 650w power supply enough? I do plan to overclock the ram and cpu.
Also I'm having a difficult time trying to find a nice ssd. I want to try out NVMe. Is there a way to tell if a motherboard is using NVMe or SATA for its M.2 slots? Most don't say in their advertising or specifications beyond that they have M.2. I hear these intel 660p have troubles when saturated, but that probably won't come up if I'm just playing games, or at most backing up games.

The difference a 9700k would make at 1440p probably isn't worth the tradeoff in cost and core count.

650w gold is fine for that build. You could go bigger if you want the fan to run less often I guess.

Any motherboard you buy new will have nvme support. You almost certainly won't notice a big difference from a sata drive anyway, but nvme is so cheap right now you might as well go for it.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Lord Stimperor posted:

What I do mind are the high temperatures. At near-idle, the CPU is 48-60 degrees 20 degrees hotter than the GPU, 30-40 degrees over ambient. Under load it can go into the 80s.

Any way to tell whether the thing is working as intended?

That idle is high but your load temps are fine. See if you get the same symptom with a different OS.

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


If you're not striving to improve, you'll end up going backwards.
So I'm looking to downscale my build as I don't have a lot of deskpace anymore and it needs to be shared with a laptop & stand (putting PC on floor is not an option due to a small child with an appetite for cables).

I've been looking at Dan Micro ITX cases and builds but have a question.

Currently I have the following:

i7 6700k
1080Ti EVGA ftw3
Ram
3 SSDs
Coolermaster neptom 240
Be quiet 750W semi modular psu

I understand that I will probably need to drop the ssds down to an M2 potentially (and they are cheap right now) and wil need to get a smaller CPU fan. But will I struggle to fit the GPU into a Dan case?

CyberPingu fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Aug 1, 2019

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

CyberPingu posted:

I understand that I will probably need to drop the ssds down to an M2 potentially (and they are cheap right now). But will I struggle to fit the GPU into a Dan case?

You will struggle to fit everything into a Dan case. You will also need an SFF power supply. If you want to keep your current stuff, I'd be looking at something more like a Core V1.

Tiny niche ITX cases are absolutely awesome, but they're an expensive and time consuming project to get built and tuned properly.

edit: you can forget that 240 aio lol

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

Dr. Fishopolis posted:

That idle is high but your load temps are fine. See if you get the same symptom with a different OS.

Didn't have an alternative OS on hand. But the BIOS hardware monitor reads out 38-39 degrees, which is honestly closer to what I'd expect. I'll prepare some live Linux on a stick to see what that says.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Lord Stimperor posted:

Didn't have an alternative OS on hand. But the BIOS hardware monitor reads out 38-39 degrees, which is honestly closer to what I'd expect. I'll prepare some live Linux on a stick to see what that says.

That's not bad, honestly. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


If you're not striving to improve, you'll end up going backwards.

Dr. Fishopolis posted:

You will struggle to fit everything into a Dan case. You will also need an SFF power supply. If you want to keep your current stuff, I'd be looking at something more like a Core V1.

Tiny niche ITX cases are absolutely awesome, but they're an expensive and time consuming project to get built and tuned properly.

edit: you can forget that 240 aio lol

Yeah i put that i would need to drop the neptom.

Ill take a look at the core, from what i remember its pretty bulky though.

Edit . Just looked at it again, and no its pretty small, guess i just assume cube cases are going to be bulkier than they are

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
The Core V1 for what it is has ample room for everything. Its a great designed case. I almost went with the V21 for my new build but at mATX size, it bumps it up just a little too much for my liking.


Ak Gara posted:

So this is kinda what I'm thinking.


My question is, if the SATA connectors are limited to 5ish amps, is that for each individual sata connector on the 6 pin to 4 sata power connector cable? (theoretical 20 amps on a PCIE 6 pin)

[edit] PCIE 6 pin is 12 volt right? 12v * 20a would be 240 watts. Don't 6 pins only draw 75 watts? That would mean 6.25 amps for the entire cable?

To be honest, if your using that case and aren't removing the shrouding at the bottom to keep the power supply seperate, the fans at the bottom aren't necessary. The three fans at the front and top are going to give a ton of airflow through that case.

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


If you're not striving to improve, you'll end up going backwards.

Puddin posted:

The Core V1 for what it is has ample room for everything. Its a great designed case. I almost went with the V21 for my new build but at mATX size, it bumps it up just a little too much for my liking.




Hmm i might struggle to get the GPU in actually, apparently is 15mm bigger than the internal case maximum

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

CyberPingu posted:

Hmm i might struggle to get the GPU in actually, apparently is 15mm bigger than the internal case maximum

It does have a small cutout at the front of the case as thr front fan is offset to the right slightly. But if its anything close to a double height card then it probably wont fit in the space without some creative cutting. do you know the GPU dimensions, I can try and measure it out in the case when i get back from work?

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

CyberPingu posted:

So I'm looking to downscale my build as I don't have a lot of deskpace anymore and it needs to be shared with a laptop & stand (putting PC on floor is not an option due to a small child with an appetite for cables).

I've been looking at Dan Micro ITX cases and builds but have a question.

Currently I have the following:

i7 6700k
1080Ti EVGA ftw3
Ram
3 SSDs
Coolermaster neptom 240
Be quiet 750W semi modular psu

I understand that I will probably need to drop the ssds down to an M2 potentially (and they are cheap right now) and wil need to get a smaller CPU fan. But will I struggle to fit the GPU into a Dan case?

Amazingly it'll fit. That's not true of most itx and sff cases (including cube cases) because it's too tall for most. The biggest issue with with Dan Cases is getting decent CPU cooling - there's not enough room for a large heatsink so you're best bet is to go with a lower-power CPU and accept that you can't do much in the way of overclocking if you want to keep temperatures sane. Note that a 240mm radiator will not fit in an A4 - it's 120mm max and that's with an optional bracket. An NCase M1 will fit a 240mm radiator and apparently a FTW3 as well, though you'll need a right-angle pcie power connector adapter (which isn't a bad idea anyway).

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


If you're not striving to improve, you'll end up going backwards.

Stickman posted:

Amazingly it'll fit. That's not true of most itx and sff cases (including cube cases) because it's too tall for most. The biggest issue with with Dan Cases is getting decent CPU cooling - there's not enough room for a large heatsink so you're best bet is to go with a lower-power CPU and accept that you can't do much in the way of overclocking if you want to keep temperatures sane. Note that a 240mm radiator will not fit in an A4 - it's 120mm max and that's with an optional bracket. An NCase M1 will fit a 240mm radiator and apparently a FTW3 as well, though you'll need a right-angle pcie power connector adapter (which isn't a bad idea anyway).

Cheers,

Yeah i expected to drop the Neptom in favour of a 120mm fan anyway. Im not into OCing anymore anyway so not bothered about that.

Im considering options at the moment if this is even the right route to go with the mini itx builds

as you can see right now desk space is pretty small

CyberPingu fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Aug 1, 2019

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005
The best CPU cooling solution for the Dan A4 (not-including 120mm AIOs, which preclude full length GPUs) might be the Asetek 645LT 92mm AIO, they basically redesigned it specifically for that case.

Though obviously it's an even tighter fit than normal air cooled builds.

Ak Gara
Jul 29, 2005

That's just the way he rolls.
Oh man! This:


Completely wrong now! Apparently Corsair are making a new box called the Lighting Node Core that both powers the fans, and provides power for RGB, as well as a new version of the SP120/SP140 that has addressable RGB with icue. Didn't see them before, they new?

Puddin posted:

To be honest, if your using that case and aren't removing the shrouding at the bottom to keep the power supply seperate, the fans at the bottom aren't necessary. The three fans at the front and top are going to give a ton of airflow through that case.

I'm watercooling.

mearn
Aug 2, 2011

Kevin Harvick's #1 Fan!

Looking to build a new PC, located in the United States. I'd mainly be using this for development/data analysis. I'd also be using it for gaming, but I don't need to run everything at 100 FPS on Ultra. Currently using a 1080p monitor.

Processing power is kind of important, I mess around with machine learning a lot and being able to train models quickly would be nice.

This is what I have picked out at the moment. I'd like to find a way to get the price a little closer to $1,000 but I'm not sure where to cut at this point. My main questions: How concerned should I be about having to update the motherboard and needing an older processor to run it long enough to update it? Is this a real concern at this point or would most motherboards in stock now already have this update? Also, I had an AMD CPU about a decade ago and the stock CPU fan was insanely loud to the point that I underclocked my processor to keep it from kicking in until I could replace it. Have AMD stock coolers improved since then or should I budget for a third party cooler as well?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($239.00 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SanDisk SSD PLUS 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Black 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($179.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake V200 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1153.73
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-01 16:41 EDT-0400

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Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Ak Gara posted:

Oh man! This:


Completely wrong now! Apparently Corsair are making a new box called the Lighting Node Core that both powers the fans, and provides power for RGB, as well as a new version of the SP120/SP140 that has addressable RGB with icue. Didn't see them before, they new?


I'm watercooling.

Ahhh that makes more sense then.

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